5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Starting Issues

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Old 04-24-2008, 09:40 PM
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Starting Issues

I want to apologize ahead of time because this is going to be a pretty long story...there is really no way for me to summarize it.

It started off about 1.5 months ago...I turned my key in the ignition and my car started to hesitate when starting (it didn't start as soon as I turned the key). Within a few days, it was getting to the point where I would have to turn my key multiple times for it to even start. Sometimes it would not do anything at all (no clicking, no interior lights), and sometimes the lights would flash for each key turn, but it wouldn't start. A few times my car wouldn't start and I got it started by jumping it. It eventually got the point where my car was totally dead and wouldn't start with a jump. I had no interior/exterior lights and my remote locks wouldn't even work. Nothing at all happened when I would turn the key. This happened while I was at work and I ended up calling a tow truck. I must have tried starting my car 30 times before the tow truck came. Once he got there I tried again just for the hell of it, and it started. Needless to say I was pretty pissed off that I just wasted money on a tow truck, but I let him tow my car to the garage anyways.

Once my car was at the garage, they said it was starting right up every time without any problems, and they couldn't get it to fail (figures). So after having my car for 2 days, they somehow came to the conclusion that I needed a new starter. Since I was desperate to get my car back, I said go ahead and do it. They put a new starter in and charged me about $350 for parts and labor. I was a little skeptical that they just said it was the starter just so they could make money from it somehow and get it off of their hands. But this is the garage my family always takes our cars too, so I kind of trusted them.

After having this done, I drove my car around for a week with no issues. It was starting up quick and I was convinced that they solved the problem. I was wrong. It started doing the same thing again (starting slow, taking multiple key turns to start). Once again, jumping the battery solved the problem a few of the times that it wouldn't start. One day I got done golfing and went to get in my car, and SURPRISE it wouldn't start after 20 key turns and I had no electrical components whatsoever. I was pretty convinced that it had to be my ignition switch at this point because I had read threads on here about other members that were having similar issues. So I called my dad and he came and jumped my car and luckily it started, so I didn't have to get it towed (EDIT: "towed" not "jumped").

This time, I drove my car straight to the Nissan dealership (Brenner Nissan) where I bought it last June. I gave them the keys and explained everything in as much detail as I could remember from the past couple weeks. I told them that I just had the starter replaced and that I have a strong feeling it might be the ignition switch. I called them the next day after they had inspected my car. They said it took many tries before they could get it to fail, and they told me I had a loose battery terminal. They said when it wouldn't start at all, a jiggle on the positive battery terminal made it start right up. So they did a "battery service" job on my battery where they cleaned the terminals, topped it off with water, etc. They charged me $130 for the "labor" and I was happy to have my car working again. On the other hand, I was extremely pissed that I had just paid $350 a week and a half before for a new starter. I was convinced that it was mis-diagnosed at the garage. After my dad and I *****ed at them long enough, they covered the cost of my "battery service" at the dealership, so I was $350 in the hole after this whole ordeal.

I have been driving my car for about a month after all of that, without any issues whatsoever. But that's where the fun ends. The last few days, my car has been starting real slow (just like in the past). Today it started getting to the point where I had to turn my key a few times to get it started (again). This gave me a really bad feeling in the pit of my stomach, because I knew it was about to happen again. Sure enough, as I was leaving work tonight at 9:00...my car wouldn't start! This time though, my battery seems perfectly strong...all my interior and exterior lights are bright. When I turn the key, it's clicking, but not turning over whatsoever. Got my friend to jump me, still wouldn't start. So I had to get a ride home from my friend, and my car is currently sitting in the parking lot at work.

I am really sorry for writing a book about this situation, but I didn't know how else to explain it well enough. If you were kind enough to actually read this whole post, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE let me know what you think the problem could be. I am thinking that it has to be the ignition switch, considering I just got a new starter and my battery seems fine. THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!

Last edited by sublime258; 04-26-2008 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:00 AM
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Sounds almost like a bad ground.

Simple way to check is get your jumper cables, get one cable and clip it to the neg terminal and the other end of it to a good bare spot on your engine.
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Old 04-25-2008, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by chopstix2nrz
Sounds almost like a bad ground.

Simple way to check is get your jumper cables, get one cable and clip it to the neg terminal and the other end of it to a good bare spot on your engine.
Good idea...I'm gonna drive to work right now (on my day off) and try it. Thanks. Any other ideas are welcome!
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:02 AM
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I think NIssan Fanboy has a good suggestion. Definately try it.

My father's 1984 Daihatshu Charade (yeah i know i am talking about a 24 years old car and its not here in US) had sort of the same problem. the car just wouldnt start sometimes and other times it would start right away. The battery seemed fine but in the end it was the battery. have ur battery checked out at Autozone.

Also, i had a 1989 Camry when i was in college. This was in 2002.
that car would never start on the first try in the MORING. but it would start by the 3rd or 4th try but there was a trick to it. after the first crank, i had to turn the key all the way to the off position and then try again. the car wouldnt start no matter how many times i would crank it if i didnt turn the key all the way to the OFF position. I dont know what was going on electronically, but that did it for me. I kept the car for 3 years and this was the way it would start after not being driven for many hours (cold start).

just my 2 cents....
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:13 PM
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Well trying to ground the negative terminal didn't work. So I had to call the stealership to have it towed . The guy who towed it said it sounds like the starter I just got a month ago is bad...WTF Hopefully if I need to get another starter it will be covered under my extended warranty...
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:02 PM
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If the lights are bright and you still can't start the car then you can rule out the alternator, battery, and the battery connections. It sounds like its either the starter or the ignition switch, but I would suspect the starter.

The shop you used most likely put in a rebuilt starter which has a higher chance of failure. BTW...I think they hosed you on that replacement starter price. I had my starter changed for $180.

Good luck...these issues are annoying, I know..I went through hell with my alternator (2 of them), battery, and starter.
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by foodmanry
If the lights are bright and you still can't start the car then you can rule out the alternator, battery, and the battery connections. It sounds like its either the starter or the ignition switch, but I would suspect the starter.

The shop you used most likely put in a rebuilt starter which has a higher chance of failure. BTW...I think they hosed you on that replacement starter price. I had my starter changed for $180.

Good luck...these issues are annoying, I know..I went through hell with my alternator (2 of them), battery, and starter.
If the starter is bad all his electronic interior functions would still work
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Old 04-26-2008, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by foodmanry
If the lights are bright and you still can't start the car then you can rule out the alternator, battery, and the battery connections. It sounds like its either the starter or the ignition switch, but I would suspect the starter.

The shop you used most likely put in a rebuilt starter which has a higher chance of failure. BTW...I think they hosed you on that replacement starter price. I had my starter changed for $180.

Good luck...these issues are annoying, I know..I went through hell with my alternator (2 of them), battery, and starter.
You nailed it on the head...the dealership called me about 3 hours after I got it towed (EDIT: "towed" not "dropped it off") and told me the starter is indeed bad. You're right...I definitely got hosed on the price and labor price for the first new (re-manufactured) starter. The dealership told me it would be at least $650 for the price of a new Nissan starter, labor, towing, and tax. After almost $h!tt!ng my pants, I asked them if it was covered under my extended warranty (which they were obviously unaware of). He was like "Oh, you have an extended warranty???"...and after telling him that I do, he said he would look into it and give me a call back shortly. About 10 minutes later, he called back telling me that a new Nissan starter, labor, and towing would all be covered under my extended warranty. I would only have to pay the $50 deductible + tax. I couldn't be any more thankful...I am getting the faulty re-manufactured starter back (which will be taken back to the first garage for money) and getting a BRAND NEW Nissan starter for like $70. For the first time, I am really happy that I bought the 2-year or 24,000 mile extended warranty for $1500. This repair will make up for almost half that amount. Hopefully a brand new starter will solve the problem once and for all...

Last edited by sublime258; 04-26-2008 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sublime258
You nailed it on the head...the dealership called me about 3 hours after I got it towed (EDIT: "towed" not "dropped it off") and told me the starter is indeed bad. You're right...I definitely got hosed on the price and labor price for the first new (re-manufactured) starter. The dealership told me it would be at least $650 for the price of a new Nissan starter, labor, towing, and tax. After almost $h!tt!ng my pants, I asked them if it was covered under my extended warranty (which they were obviously unaware of). He was like "Oh, you have an extended warranty???"...and after telling him that I do, he said he would look into it and give me a call back shortly. About 10 minutes later, he called back telling me that a new Nissan starter, labor, and towing would all be covered under my extended warranty. I would only have to pay the $50 deductible + tax. I couldn't be any more thankful...I am getting the faulty re-manufactured starter back (which will be taken back to the first garage for money) and getting a BRAND NEW Nissan starter for like $70. For the first time, I am really happy that I bought the 2-year or 24,000 mile extended warranty for $1500. This repair will make up for almost half that amount. Hopefully a brand new starter will solve the problem once and for all...
Good deal! Check into the warranty details of the other shop. They usually have a 90 day or 6-month warranty. If it falls under that time period then they should refund you the amount of the faulty part at a minimum and credit the labor towards future service.
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by chopstix2nrz
If the starter is bad all his electronic interior functions would still work
That is what I said...
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:22 PM
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I have an 01 maxima and it worked fine on wed night go to leave thurs morning and it cranks slowly then nuttin not even a slow crank. I think its the battery so i try to jump it and nuttin. remove the starter take it in to get checked and they said it was bad so replaced it. Still nuttin all lights are fine battery is fine. Does the ignition switch trip a code in a ses scan? could i have gotten a bad starter or is it maybe an ignition switch issue? if its the ignition switch where is it located?
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by trk727
I have an 01 maxima and it worked fine on wed night go to leave thurs morning and it cranks slowly then nuttin not even a slow crank. I think its the battery so i try to jump it and nuttin. remove the starter take it in to get checked and they said it was bad so replaced it. Still nuttin all lights are fine battery is fine. Does the ignition switch trip a code in a ses scan? could i have gotten a bad starter or is it maybe an ignition switch issue? if its the ignition switch where is it located?
You can try jumping big contact nuts on the starter relay for half a second with some really thick wire to see if the starter would try to turn. It won't engage gear most likely but you should hear it turning. Don't even put key in ignition.
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by trk727
I have an 01 maxima and it worked fine on wed night go to leave thurs morning and it cranks slowly then nuttin not even a slow crank. I think its the battery so i try to jump it and nuttin. remove the starter take it in to get checked and they said it was bad so replaced it. Still nuttin all lights are fine battery is fine. Does the ignition switch trip a code in a ses scan? could i have gotten a bad starter or is it maybe an ignition switch issue? if its the ignition switch where is it located?
Where did you get the starter? Was it re-manufactured? There is a very good chance that they gave you another bad starter (happened to me as you can see above).
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:51 PM
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check the battery, it sounds like the battery is failed storing electricity. that's why it would start everytime you jump it.

Last edited by jasonmax; 09-05-2008 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:06 PM
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in this order.

1 alternator
2 battery
3 starter?

id look at these things

try this suggestion. disconnect battery and see if the car starts off of the small stored energy.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonmax
check the battery, it sounds like the battery is failed storing electricity. that's why it would start everytime you jump it.
It's not my problem anymore...he took over my thread from 5 months ago...look at the dates.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sublime258
It's not my problem anymore...he took over my thread from 5 months ago...look at the dates.
gee, I didn't look the date. so what was the problem in the end?
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:30 PM
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For me it was the starter...I got it replaced at a garage (re-manufactured) and they gave me another bad starter which died a week later...finally took it to the stealership and got a brand new Nissan starter put in...covered by extended warranty. Has started as soon as I turn the key since then.
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Old 09-06-2008, 11:20 AM
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i zapped the starter with a screw driver and it spun but when i turn the key nothin happens. could it be the ignition switch or would a park nuetral sensor do it i got a ses tester and no codes came up im lost
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by trk727
i zapped the starter with a screw driver and it spun but when i turn the key nothin happens. could it be the ignition switch or would a park nuetral sensor do it i got a ses tester and no codes came up im lost
Your starter motor is OK.

I'd check fuses: bottom left (10A) and middle-right(15A) - depending on the transmission type. You can just swap them with others for the same current if your spare slots are empty.

To check the starter relay you can unplug connector from it and jump its contact from one of the 2 'nut' contacts - the one with the thick wire going to battery for a second. This should engage your starter gear and should power up the starter.

If it does - read on.

If it's automatic it could be inhibitor switch/relay - try to move your lever back-forth a little. Or from P to N - it should crank in both.

If it's manual it could be clutch interlock switch/relay. Please let us know the transmission type.

Do you hear click in the cabin when you turn key from ON to START?

Starting or to be precise cranking circuit is very simple, no ECU or anything like that involved - just couple switches/fuses/relays and the starter motor. After the tests above only ignition switch/inhibitor switch/interlock relay will be left. It would help if you can get youself/borrow a voltmeter in case your problem persists as it is really useful in troubleshooting.
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Old 10-08-2008, 06:51 AM
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UGH

My 1995 Maxima is constantly sending voltage to the starter and burning up solenoids. This is very frustrating. I know there are supposed to be grounds going to the starter, but how many? From where to where? There was a ground strap that wasn't in place from the neg battery terminal to beneath the battery tray, and i bolted that down. After taking out the starter 5 or 6 times, i don't know where the grounds go. Any help?? I can't afford anymore solenoids...
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