Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone have a write up on how to do this? My rear mount makes this funny noise whenever I turn the key to ON and at some other times. The front one made the same noise and I replaced it myself last year but rear one is barely visible from any angle ... My car is 2k auto GLE, has these liquid filled mounts which allow ECU to change their stifness. The easy temporary solution would be to disconnect the socket to the mount but I wonder how difficult is it to fix it right.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Drop the crossmember, replace the mount. Rather easy, especially if you have a lift.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I'll give it another look. I don't have a lift, so it is slightly more involved. One question - if I drop the crossmember how far would the engine move down without? I know, there're 2 side mounts as well but I'd like to be sure when I'm under the car.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not much, really. The two side mounts will hold it up just fine without the center crossmember.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, looks like I'm going under the next weekend .

Parthur

Take pictures and a write up, would be nice.
If I am not asking too much.

adrenaline_rush_fanatic

iTrader: (3)

You can get this information from Energy Suspension... they have an install they include with the polyeuthane mounts..
http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17426.PDF

voila... it's not step by step... but there's a simple solution.

Haynes...

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Well, I did it over weekend. Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures and I think, I did it in a slightly wrong way. Some of my problems also due to working under jacked up car without using lift. It limits available length of breaking bar. So, here are some notes that might be useful:

1. Start from loosing bolts that connect mounts to crossmember (2 each) and mounts - to engine bracket (1 each) before 'dropping' it: mine were so tight that I had to use 3 pound sledge hummer.

2. Engine mount bolt has square nut which is welded to the engine bracket - there's no need to access passenger side of the bracket to hold the nut.

3. When putting it back together I'd put mounts on the engine first, then connect crossmember to them and the last - crossmember to the car. I swapped last 2 steps and had some troubles placing crossmember bolts through engine mounts.

4. Tighten everything when all the parts are in place and you don't use any extra support for the engine - this way they will be tightened in their normal positions.

5. I used 3.5 hydraulic jack to help me lift the engine a little for crossmember holes to match their mount's counterparts and for overall support.

6. I had to remove airbox to disconnect/connect rear mount socket which is located under the box.