Sooooo I'm nervous. P0300 and white smoke.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Sooooo I'm nervous. P0300 and white smoke.
Yes I searched and got nothing that really helps me. If you know of a thread with similar issues please point me in the right direction.
You can see axactly what my car is and what mods I have in the sig.
While driving home on I95 tonight I felt like opening up the max a little. I ran third up near redline and let off. No issues at all at this point, pulled hard with no miss at all. About 2 miles further down the road I pulled off to see my girlfriend at work. Spent about twenty minutes there and go back out to the car. I start it up with ease and it runs fine.
Here is where the problems begin... I get about 300 yards down the street at a low RPM (4th gear at about 30MPH) and the steering gets very stiff. I look down at the tac and the car is off... I try to crank it up and it takes about 5-8 seconds to start. Once it finally starts up if runs VERY rough. Almost like I'm down 2 or 3 cylinders. I get out to check it out and I have a decent amount of white smoke at idle and more when I rev it up. The smoke has no blue tint and doesn't smell too sweet (head gasket) but def has a different smell so I'm kinda lost.
The car almost sounds like an STi with exhaust when driving (you know how they sound). It revs up with a slight miss and no backfire. I'm lost here guys. Any help? I was lucky I had the OBD2 with me. The only code is P0300. I plan on going in the morning and checking the coolant/oil for head gasket issues.
Thanks a ton in advance!
Josh
If you don't feel like typing you can call me at 540-455-3295. I'll be up for a while as I probably won't get much sleep tonight
Thanks again
You can see axactly what my car is and what mods I have in the sig.
While driving home on I95 tonight I felt like opening up the max a little. I ran third up near redline and let off. No issues at all at this point, pulled hard with no miss at all. About 2 miles further down the road I pulled off to see my girlfriend at work. Spent about twenty minutes there and go back out to the car. I start it up with ease and it runs fine.
Here is where the problems begin... I get about 300 yards down the street at a low RPM (4th gear at about 30MPH) and the steering gets very stiff. I look down at the tac and the car is off... I try to crank it up and it takes about 5-8 seconds to start. Once it finally starts up if runs VERY rough. Almost like I'm down 2 or 3 cylinders. I get out to check it out and I have a decent amount of white smoke at idle and more when I rev it up. The smoke has no blue tint and doesn't smell too sweet (head gasket) but def has a different smell so I'm kinda lost.
The car almost sounds like an STi with exhaust when driving (you know how they sound). It revs up with a slight miss and no backfire. I'm lost here guys. Any help? I was lucky I had the OBD2 with me. The only code is P0300. I plan on going in the morning and checking the coolant/oil for head gasket issues.
Thanks a ton in advance!
Josh
If you don't feel like typing you can call me at 540-455-3295. I'll be up for a while as I probably won't get much sleep tonight
Thanks again
A few possibilities that match the code and the performance:
1. MAF is blown
2. At least one coil is blown
3. This is from a 4th gen thread, but should apply to you as well:
1. MAF is blown
2. At least one coil is blown
3. This is from a 4th gen thread, but should apply to you as well:
Your engine may have been flooded. This caused hard starting and when the engine did finally start it was running rich. The rich mixture caused the engine to run poorly, triggering the Diagnostic Trouble Code 0701 [Irish44j comment: 0701 = P0300]. The engine generated a lot of black soot which collected on the sensing element of the Left Bank Oxygen Sensor, rendering it useless and triggering Diagnostic Trouble Code 0303.
You may test this "flooded engine" theory by cranking the engine with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the floor. Cranking with Wide Open Throttle is a signal to the Engine Control Module to "clear a flooded engine". If this technique gets the engine to run you will want to figure out why the engine got flooded in the first place. Possible causes of a flooded engine include
- fuel injectors which stick open
- bad fuel pressure regulator
- obstructed fuel return line
If you are lucky the Oxygen Sensor will recover spontaneously. If not you will have to remove the Oxygen Sensor and replace or rejuvenate it. I have read that an Oxygen Sensor may sometimes be rejuventated by clamping it in a vise and heating the sensing tip red hot with a propane torch. This is said to burn away the crust of deposits which prevents the sensor from working. I have never tried this trick, so cannot vouch for its effectiveness. If your sensor is already "dead" there isn't much to lose.
You may test this "flooded engine" theory by cranking the engine with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the floor. Cranking with Wide Open Throttle is a signal to the Engine Control Module to "clear a flooded engine". If this technique gets the engine to run you will want to figure out why the engine got flooded in the first place. Possible causes of a flooded engine include
- fuel injectors which stick open
- bad fuel pressure regulator
- obstructed fuel return line
If you are lucky the Oxygen Sensor will recover spontaneously. If not you will have to remove the Oxygen Sensor and replace or rejuvenate it. I have read that an Oxygen Sensor may sometimes be rejuventated by clamping it in a vise and heating the sensing tip red hot with a propane torch. This is said to burn away the crust of deposits which prevents the sensor from working. I have never tried this trick, so cannot vouch for its effectiveness. If your sensor is already "dead" there isn't much to lose.
And hate to tell you, but based on what you were doing with the car just before it happened, it very well could be a blown head gasket. Would explain the white "smoke" from the exhast and you wouldn't necessarily get that "sweet" smell depending on your antifreeze mix and brand...
Again, though, most likely is tha you have one or more bad coils and/or a defective spark plug. Start with checking your plugs, coil wires, and do the coil resistance check (there's a thread around here on it, It's a long one and i saw it within the last week or so on the 5th gen first page..)
Again, though, most likely is tha you have one or more bad coils and/or a defective spark plug. Start with checking your plugs, coil wires, and do the coil resistance check (there's a thread around here on it, It's a long one and i saw it within the last week or so on the 5th gen first page..)
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Thank you very much! I am thinking possibly Cam position sensor also? Merlyn told me that if the crank position sensor went bad that i wouldn't have a tac so I kinda ruled that one out. Thanks again!
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
And hate to tell you, but based on what you were doing with the car just before it happened, it very well could be a blown head gasket. Would explain the white "smoke" from the exhast and you wouldn't necessarily get that "sweet" smell depending on your antifreeze mix and brand...
Again, though, most likely is tha you have one or more bad coils and/or a defective spark plug. Start with checking your plugs, coil wires, and do the coil resistance check (there's a thread around here on it, It's a long one and i saw it within the last week or so on the 5th gen first page..)
Again, though, most likely is tha you have one or more bad coils and/or a defective spark plug. Start with checking your plugs, coil wires, and do the coil resistance check (there's a thread around here on it, It's a long one and i saw it within the last week or so on the 5th gen first page..)
anything is possible, but that doesn't sound like one of the usual culprits for this code. Most people who get P0300 (or 0301, 0302, 0303....etc) have one or more bad coils or a bad MAF. Both are common items to go bad (I'm on my 4th MAF and have replaced every coil once or twice).
here's the thread that shows how to test your coils. And this method DOES work if any of the coils are totally bad. If it's just an occasional misfire/coil's not that bad, it might not work.
In your case, though, you clearly could have one that is totally gone and this test will show you if that's the case.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ow-w-pics.html
In your case, though, you clearly could have one that is totally gone and this test will show you if that's the case.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ow-w-pics.html
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
wow, That's an awesome write up. Thanks again! That test will be run tomorrow first thing. I hope this or the MAF is the issue. How much of a pain is the Head Gasket?
huh, i didnt think 5.5's really got bad coils. i guess it makes sense though, nothings bullet proof. i guess ill check that now, been getting the p0300 everytime i go to the track, hopefully it will help me fix the p0167, p0147, p0706 i just pulled too (yes im checking the stickies for what they are)
Are you SURE your coils are to blame, I know you told me you pulled one by one (as suggested) and it was a noticeable difference BUT... if you just take your IM off and pull your plugs you might have just killed a few plugs. I see you blowing 2 plugs more likely then blowing the coil. No use in buying 6 new coils if you have 2 bad plugs. The car has 115K~ on it, who knows when the plugs were replaced last, but I would at least pull a front plug (I know you think the coils in the rear are to blame) and look at it, because it might be time to replace the plugs anyway, and since you have to take the IM off to get to the coils, you might as well just double check, or just replace them anyway since you are already there and they are about due for a change (if you don't know when the last owner changed them). I know I did mine at about 60k which for my choice of plug changes, would put me at about 120k when I would change again (maybe sooner).
Last edited by Merlyn; Jul 20, 2008 at 09:59 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
It has 106K not 115K. And the plan all along was to go down to the car and pull the IM today and check plugs. Don't worry, You will get your money.
Last edited by Weeble1; Jul 20, 2008 at 02:05 PM.
I'm not worried about my money, you know that :-D
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
I do have cats. But it is something with the fuel/plugs. Smells like straight gas and when i unplugged those 2 coils there was no difference in idle unlike when I unplugged the other 4 and the car near stalled out.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Like I said, my setup was not complete so it was a great amp / sub combo when it was in its prime on my car. Glad he likes it... Maybe the bass force will give him 5 - 10 HP
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Shamefull bump, Replaced all plugs and swapped the coil packs that were in question to the front... The same 2 cylinders (1 & 3) are still screwed... anything? Just got off the phone with DaveB and he says fuel pressure regulator? Anything would help. Thanks
Josh
Josh
Last edited by Weeble1; Jul 23, 2008 at 12:59 PM.
Might wanna do a compression check since they're adjacent cylinders...
Actually a pretty good idea.
I'm telling you...in the tank. A33Bs+ are a returnless setup, with the regulator in the tank.
If it's dumping fuel, then it's most likely the injectors.
If it's dumping fuel, then it's most likely the injectors.
I vote MAF, had a customers 4th gen do the same thing, Multiple cyl misfire and once in awhile it would narrow a cyl down, mostly #3. I tested everything, changed plugs, it stopped doing it for about 15 minutes, then smoke and miss. After messing with it for hours, started pulling sensors and such off my car to try it out. MAF fixed it. They do some weird stuff when they're bad.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
I vote MAF, had a customers 4th gen do the same thing, Multiple cyl misfire and once in awhile it would narrow a cyl down, mostly #3. I tested everything, changed plugs, it stopped doing it for about 15 minutes, then smoke and miss. After messing with it for hours, started pulling sensors and such off my car to try it out. MAF fixed it. They do some weird stuff when they're bad.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
I vote MAF, had a customers 4th gen do the same thing, Multiple cyl misfire and once in awhile it would narrow a cyl down, mostly #3. I tested everything, changed plugs, it stopped doing it for about 15 minutes, then smoke and miss. After messing with it for hours, started pulling sensors and such off my car to try it out. MAF fixed it. They do some weird stuff when they're bad.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
$20 for what? And the other MAF is getting put in tomorrow. Just to make sure that is the issue. The 350Z injectors are great. Pulls a little harder top end it seems.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,623
From: Fredericksburg, Va
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