So I head my HKS rear section, and UDP installed today, later I went home to install the Stillen y-pipe, because the shop did not want to deal with "tampering with an emission device". After lots of hours of hard work, a bunch of cursing and TONS of WD-40 in my eyes, I got finally done and took the car on a test drive. I was driving for about 20 minutes, when the headlights started flickering, then they went out, the ABS sign came on, O/D was flashing like crazy, needles going up and done, all hell broke loose.
Well turns out battery died. It is a 2 month old optima red top battery, and it was driving perfectly fine before today. I think it has something to do with the UDP. Is it possible that the guy didn't install the right belt for the Alternator, thus it is loose and not turning right? Did he fry my alternator? Did anyone have similar experiences?
I mean it could be that the UDP was under driving the alternator so much that it couldn't keep up with the power consumption, but i wasn't even listening to the radio! I'm kind of upset, especially since my car is 25 miles from home now.

 

check the belt tension. IIRC the factory belt is reused. UDP are lighter/smaller diameter which is less inertia for the engine, this may cause the other pulley accessories a decrease in performance. A typical trade off for a little more engine power

nice car BTW

 

Thanks,
I will check the belt tension too, a buddy of mine has an extra battery, and i'll swap it in to drive it home. But shouldn't there be a squeal with loose belts? I mean it shuoldn't underdrive the alternator to a point where it is not functioning

 

Do a quick test, start the car with replacement battery, then remove the ground cable and see if the car stays on. If yes, then alternator is at least working.

 

^^

But first:
Visually inspect the alternator belt area, etc.

 

what ground cable do i have to remove? From the battery? so that's just the negative cable right?
And anyone know the torque specs on the pulleys?

 

Correct, the negative cable.

 

NO, NO, NO, NO.........how many times does this have to be said.........NEVER, I repeat, NEVER disconnect the battery power when the Ign. switch is ON, with or without the engine running.

 

I'm always open to learning new things, so what should he do? Create temporary ground for alternator while negative cable to battery is disconnected?

 

The alternator is grounded directly to the engine block. If the alternator was charging the battery OK before the UDP mod. work, then check the battery terminal connections........the battery ground was probably disconnected during the work, and check the alternator connections themselves, and as someone suggested above, check the belt tension. Was the charge light On? You never disconnect or reconnect the battery with the IGN. Sw. ON because you can basically "fry" the ECM.

 

What's the charge light? No CEL or anything was lit in one the dash.
I checked the tension and the alternator is turning. I called Stillen and they said it underdrives the accessories by only 8% so that shouldn't do anything. PLus there are so many people that don't have any problems with it.
The battery was connected fine. What other connections should i check?

 

If it's a true underdrive pulley...meaning it's smaller in diameter than stock size, as well as being lighter, isn't a smaller belt required??? I'm pretty sure you don't re-use the factory belt. I know people said check the belt tension...but did anybody catch this?

 

Nevermind then.

 

He must've used the right belt, because the belt is tight and turning. I just tightened it a bit more, and it turns fine. The battery doesn't seem to charge tho.

 

Yea I wouldn't have said that if I would have seen your previous post saying you already checked the tension...sorry.

 

I got the battery charged, and will be able to drive it home probably. The autozone alternator test is not adequate form what i've heard? THey said they could test it, even fi the alternator is on the car. Are there any other ways to check it?

 

you are correct.
i wasn't quite sure if the Stillen UDP was same diameter and a few pounds lighter or different Dia altogether.
Some UDPs (single belt kits) eliminate accessories all together for track use with the exception of the alternator. (But PS and AC are eliminated.)
Lightened UDPs with same diameters wouldn't require a new shorter belt. (not a true performance UDP though.) Good catch.

 

The "not charging" light is the little "battery" light (I think red). The light should "check" by being On with the Ign. Sw. On and then should go out upon starting. (You're pulling our chains aren't you?) Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the engine Off........voltage with a reasonable battery will be right around 12, start the engine........you should see close to 13 up to about 14.5 volts.

 

The Stillen UDP is actually the Unorthodox Racing UDP...but Stillen just sells it.

 

Well, I just drove it to Autozone, and what do you know, the battery light and brake light both lit up. So I guess must be the alt. Great fun. Now it makes sense too. when I started the car after installing my y-pipe yesterday there was a bunch of smoke and burned smell coming out, my uncle said it was the WD-40 burning off that i sprayed on the bolts. I guess it was the alternator going bad. Weird coincidence tho...

 

What eve you do Dont Unhook the neg battery calbe while the car is running. Very good chance you will cook every electronic device in the car! It has happened

 

Either the alternator just happened to go bad at the same time you had the work done, or the WD-40 you were spraying got into the alterator and caused it to short out internally.

An underdrive pulley shouldn't cause any charging issues (had them on my Accord for 5 years, absolutely no charging problems even in stop and go traffic with the a/c and stereo on. In addition, underdriving the alternator should make it last a bit longer since it is turning more slowly.

 

I guess it was time for the Alt. to go...
Swapped a new one in today, took me about 2.5 hours. The bolts on there were ridiculously tight. And not much room operate on lol. I didn't remove the fans, just by moving the compressor I was able to reach it no problem.
Well so far car runs awesome, no battery light on anymore. 200 bucks poorer and infinitive amount happier now haha.