i have a 2000 se automatic. i just changed all my coils and need to know how to reset my ecu. i used the search function and wnet through 10 pages and found nothing what i was looking for and used the how to sticky but it kept sending me to the wrong thread

 

i thought you just disconnect the positive battery terminal for a lil bit, till the cd comes out the cd player.

 

tried that with out any luck.

 

Disconnect the battery for at least an hour.

 

Did you even try searching "reset ecu"?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tting-ecu.html

 

i searched " how to reset ecu"

 

I believe the only way to reset the ECU for 00-01 is disconnecting the positive battery terminal. If you take it off overnight and the ECU still isn't reset then you can try the following procedure, BUT I think that the following procedure only works on 2002 and up. You should know that your ECU is reset just by the way it drives, you will def feel a difference, especially since its an auto, on the way it shifts at first and where it shifts.

How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima's
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.

Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

Here is also the thread I got the procedure from if you want to do some reading about it:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...tting-ecu.html

 

yeah...should be to just disconnect the + terminal. If it didn't work the first time, just leave it disconnected longer.

 

To clear fault codes and the diagnostic data etc. from the ECM without a scantool requires the battery power to be disconnected for about 24 hours. The "learned" adaptive data/info in the memory will also be lost of course and will have to be "relearned", just the same as when the battery power is disconnected for ANY time. This always seems to cause confusion.

 

Look 2 posts above yours.

 

The throttle pedal procedure (putting the ECM into diagnostic mode and then clearing the codes etc.) will work on the Gen. 5.5, NOT the Gen. 5. Removing the battery power for about 24 hrs, works for both. Per the FSM.

 

Do you have to tap the brake pedal to totally clear the ECU?

 

There really is no reason to reset the ECU after a coil change. Sure, you can disconnect from the battery for a bit. You could also borrow a reader from an Auto Zone and reset the light. But, the light (if that is what you are worried about) will turn itself off after XX number of restarts after the problem has been fixed. For me, it took about 3 weeks .

 

^^ Ya I believe it was somewhere around 50ish restarts

 

Is it only me but I can never get the pedal method down? I b looking really dumb sitting in the car trying to time depressions.

 

ya i cant get the pedal down either, campus cops have stopped and are like you look like your mad at your gas pedal is everything okay

 

LMAO!!! u got me over here rolling with that one

 

my car won't start, i even got a new battery.nothing inside works except the horn. the radio won't come on the gear shift won't move.when i turn the key nothing

 

All this is too complicated. Just disconnect the positive battery terminal overnight!

 

what about on a 2009?

 

You could probably just pull the engine control fuse from the fuse box next to the battery for 5 minutes then plug it back in an run the car for 5 minutes with nothing turned on and not touching the accelerator until closed loop is achieved then shut it off. This works on Hondas and Toyotas very well after changing engine components etc.

Maybe some nasty, vindicative troll can chime in and tell me how stupid this idea is, and why it will destroy the car's electrical system.