so the loud noice of a train was a faulty bearing, only 2mo's since i replaced it but with the old hub but look the hub is intact fine but the bearing is f'd wtf happen?

can any one please tell me what went wrong here, i replaced it whit a new hub and a bearing so far every thign is fine

 

Over tighten

 

Did you torque the lock nut to exactly 240 lb-ft torque? Did it back off (come off easily)?

 

which nuts the bearing was done on a press

 

The big nut that holds the hub on.

 

o idk i just tighten it using a air tool. thak that was the reason?

 

Premature wheel bearing failure is very often caused by incorrect assembly procedures and/or using damaged/worn parts. Was the bearing pressed (not hammered) into the knuckle bore by pushing on the outer race only (not the inner races)? Was the hub pressed into the bearing with the inner race supported? Both snap rings were intact and in their grooves? The driveaxle nut being torqued to the torque spec. of 188-245 ft/lbs IS absolutely essential as well.

 

Installation error. Failing to follow installation instructions.

 

the bearing and the hub was pressed and got it done professionally, but the axel nut i didn't use a tourque wrinch

 

maybe cheap bearing?

 

Probably. Torque wrench only. Plus that is a lock nut so it is probably best to use a new one each time. A little Loctite red helps too, makes sure it doesn't back off.

 

thanks for the info i loosen it and re tighten it my torque wrench only go to 150 and tighten a little more than that using a ratchet so i guess its not over tight now,

but way before my car made a squeak sound when i turn left, then i checked the wheel and found that the wheel was wobbly so thats when i found the wheel bearing is bad, so when i changed it for the first time i also changed the ball joint,tie rod end both inner and outter. but still the squeak remained and then this the bearing got f'd in 2mo's. but i changed it again this time with a new hub but stil the squeak is there should i be worried?


is more like squeak,squeak,squeak, squeak. and happens when i turn left same side where the bearing got messed up

 

There's lot's of so called professionals out there that have no clue on properly installing/presses on bearings @ machine shops or/and dealerships. This seems to be the case you're having...pressing that bearing into the spindle against the inner race will destroy it eventually! When pressing it into the spindle the interference fit friction will be @ the outer race so the the press should be applying it's press force @ the outer race of the bearing. when installing the hub the press should be pressing @ the inner bearing or if the the hub is being press into the bearing the bearing should be supported @ it's inner race. If you have a stubborn machine shop that insist he's done thousands either find another more professional shop or freeze the hub/ bake the spindle and installation will lessen the damages during the press operation...

 

I'm really surprised on how many people believe that the drive axle nut holds the bearing in...Wrong it doesn't even contact the bearing, it butts up to the inner hub and the washer and nut butt up to the outer hub surface. The torque is to maintain proper front axle spline engagement with no chance of axial play inside the hub! If the nut wasn't there everytime you turned the wheel or had suspension movement the axle would move in or out of the hub and bang the crap out of it and then possible pushing the hub out of the bearing! Something happens when you don't push the inner cv into the Differential all the way you'll hear it pop and bang cause the shaft moves and is not fully engaged and locked into the transmission.

 

Cliff's Notes:

You used the old hub with a new bearing. you must replace them both at the same time or the new bearing will go bad too.

(I can see the scarring on the hub where the inner bearing race is supposed to press on. it's bad, causing the bearing to have play in it, which caused the whole assembly to fail in short order.)

 

You're missing an important function of the axle stub.

The axle nut is there to hold the CV joint/axle stub in place on top of the bearing. The outer end of the CV joint presses against the inner wheel bearing race, holding the wheel bearing together AND against the wheel hub.

Failure to torque the axle nut properly will result in the wheel bearing separating as the wheel hub slides out of the knuckle assembly with the outer half of the bearing attached to it. The inner half of the bearing will stay stuck between the CV and the knuckle.

Been there, done that. Several times. 6th gens were notorious for coming from the factory with front right hub nut loose. Wound up having to torque many of them to about 300ft lb and using red loctite to keep them from coming loose.

 

Well I had a problem with my wheel bearing. And it went bad after almost a year and I changed it again w/ a new Hub. Depending on your impact gun, it could have been torqued enough; i used an impact gun and then check with the torque wrench and it was plenty! Good to go now with no problems!

Or the bearing could have been supported incorrectly when being pressed in by said "professional"

 

Once the axleshaft retaining nut has been found loose/backed off there is NO point in simply retorquing it. It will more than likely loosen off again because the "pinch up" was lost on the bearing "stack", allowing relative movement of the bearing stack parts, causing wear of these parts such as the matefaces of the hub shoulder, the inner races and the outer axleshaft shoulder. (The hub and axleshaft splines are likely to have worn as well). If this wear dimensionally changes the location of the inner races (the ball pocket) relative to the outer race (ball pocket), then the bearing will soon fail, even if you retorque the axleshaft nut. This wheel bearing assembly is also dependant on all the parts having the correct dimensions to give a "tight" fit of the hub into the inner races, and the outer race has to have a tight fit into the knuckle bore. This "really tight" fit of the bearing outer race into the knuckle bore is what is really keeping the whole wheel bearing assembly including the axleshaft in the car (the snapring/s by themselves wouldn't do it). Because of the kind of loads on the wheel bearing assembly, there is some pretty important engineering going on here. It isn't just dreamed up.......including the torque spec. on the axleshaft nut.

 

funny how i stumbled upon this thread. i replaced my left front wheel bearing earlier this year and it already took a crap. i think ima have to get a new hub jus to be safe. luckily i have another bearing sittin in my box at the shop. jus taking the whoel knuckle out and all that is a pain.. ehh well.. hopefully i wont screw this up again. jus sucks that the new bearing already took a crap and i was really careful when pressing it in. ima try not to over tighten the lock nut. but better it be tight then not tight enuff. we will see how this goes second time around.

 

Not enough torque on the nut is much more of an issue here than overtorquing. I would torque it to the high end of the recommended torque spec., 245 ft/lbs. And it's best to have a solid counter torque by holding the driveshaft securely, either by temporarily installing the brake rotor on the hub with the lug nuts and jamming a bar into a rotor cooling slot, OR the best and safest way is to complete the job including installing the wheel assembly (depending on what alloys you have, temporarily put on a steel wheel like the spare, if required to allow access to the nut), lower the car onto the ground, block the tire and then torque the nut to the 245 ft/lbs. This is BIG torque and people have "rolled" cars right off jacks, torquing up these nuts.

 

Believe what you want if that was the case there would be no need for the interference fit between the hub and the inner bearing, the retainer nut is only securing the hub and outer driveshaft cv. If it was pushing in the hub into the bearing it would definitely fail due to the extreme preload on the bearing. Next time you press one in you'll notice where the inner hub contact the outer CV.
Too each there own and grind it to the bone!!!!
.

 

Though your wheel bearing is definitely shot squeak is not typical wheel bearing noise. I'd guess sway bar link or ...?

Remember when you turn left you load the right wheel.

 

I am under the impression that the part is not made to withstand daily operation. I have had 4 replaced, 3 of the last 4 they replaced the hub assembly as well. All done under warranty from the dealer. 2 front left and 2 front right. All failed at different times.

I agree that improper installation can be the cause of failure, but not this many times IMHO.

 

I'm with CMax03. The nut never touches the bearing - just the outside of the hub. You'll also see the hub sticks out beyond the bearing so only the hub contacts the outer CV and axle. That axle nut is making the hub and axle "one". The bearing is really being held in the steering knuckle by the circlips and on the hub by pressure fit.

 

Wow that's crazy. 100K miles should be average life for wheel bearings.

 

Yep. I have 110K right now and haven't had any issues since 90K or so. All four failed between 45K and 100K. Luckily for me I was under warranty. The dealership hated me. Between the 2 MAF's, 4 bearing, 3 hubs, and complete rack and pinion steering assembly, I actually came out ahead on the cost of the warranty.

 

After pressing the hub into the bearing/knuckle assembly the hub face CANNOT be flush with, OR protruding past, the inner race face. It MUST be at least a few thou BELOW the inner race face. If not, even torquing the axleshaft nut to spec. will not "pinch up" the inner races, they'll loosen up/spin and you'll have premature bearing failure at least. This can happen if the hub shoulder face to hub end face dimension (length) is not correct due to hub shoulder face wear caused by a previous bearing "failure". OR possibly using a non OEM bearing where the bearing is not dimensionally correct. The shoulder face of the axleshaft (CV joint) also must not have a "step" in it, caused by wear as well. The shoulder face of the axleshaft HAS to come into contact with the inner race, NOT the hub, when the nut is torqued.