Has anyone had this problem with Brembo Crossdrilled rotors?
From my experience, they suck. I am going with slotted?


As you can see they freaken cracked all the way to the end of the rotor, I wonder if anyone has had there brakes grenade on them.



This was on my 97, now i have a 2000 and have the mattblehm kit 2 piece slotted rotors, w/6th gen calipers. I believe there 12.6 in rotors.

 

IBirishsaysItoldyouso.....

 

 

I was told by a high performance dealer that drilled rotors are terrible for performance.. They are litterally just for show... even on the porsche. (They have porsche's come in all the time to get the rotors replace from the same issue.)

If you actually look at the comparisons (sp?) of slotted vs drilled, slotted are much better... good to see that is what you ahve now... I am upgrading to slotted Brembo with Hawk HPS brake pads.


What kind of driver are you man?!

 

On the way to work i hit 100 on the freeway and then have to slow down to 10mph, then hit a side road for about 2 miles and I hit about a 100 on that. Then i slow down to 20 to make a turn on another road and that road i never go above 70, there nothing but twisties for 5 miles. So yah, i'm little hard on the brakes.

 

yeah if going to go brembo on got slotted...............

 

Could've been worse:

 

ouch dude

 

Any modified OE size rotor is going to have compromised performance when compared to a blank rotor.

Do yourself a favor now, just go with Hawk HPS and blank rotors. Mine have lasted me around +50k, still with plenty of meat on them.

GL

 

Yah, i'm using Hawks right now

 

The Rotors and hats are from Coleman Racing

 

what do you mean i need brakes.

 

Awwww FAWK i got the Brembo crossed drilled rotors, I better inspect them, its been almost a year.

 

Yeah...when I had cross-drilled/slotted they warped on me. Now I'm just rolling on blanks....no issues except a little noise from the front-right on slow roll stopping. It's been 2 years so maybe I need to replace the pads.

 

blank rotors are the best way to go.....if you must have a little flash, then slotted are the next up....

 

slotted are good, but blanks will make ur pads last longer

 

hey nice car and yes ive had that happen to me. Because the rotors and drilled they are weaker and when overheated can cause cracks but i have to say going to just slotted is a better idea also what type of brake pads are you using?

 

Is this from normal spirited street driving or do you auto-X! First and foremost Xdrilled are better street brakes than slotted, especially in wet weather. Second the reason for these cracks are the Xdrilled radii are to small. Third freezing those rotors with increase the surface hardness and increase their life. I'm running 12.6 Stillen Xdrilled Oem's, Stillen Xdrilled Oem rears, Hawk F/R pads with Goodridge SS hose, and it's been 5yrs in service no problems

 

Kinda curious how many miles you put on those before they cracked?!

Also, I'd suspect those of not being REAL brembos....or knock-offs -- ALOT of that going-around lately.
= less IRON in the rotors, more ferrous crap metal that leads to early failure=

It's ALL about heat dissapation in brakes - and the more IRON you have in your Rotors, the better!
Drilling is ONLY to save weight in High-Performance Race Cars.
Drilled rotors on street cars is TOTAL show, only.

Like the others say -- get BLANKS and go with that. The worst you'll have is material deposit (warping) and that can be fixed with a simple turning (lathing), although it's best to keep as much material on the rotors as possible.

If you want a good and inexpensive brake upgrade, go with the A34 calipers, and 12" rotors. This is working VERY well for me with Hawk HPS pads.

gr

 

I had about 30-40k on them, they were zinc plated, i bought them in a group deal. I was using ceramic pads, I think the ceramic is to hard on the rotors.

On my 2kMax I have 6th gen calipers w/12.6" 2 piece slotted rotor. 10k on them, no problems. Using Hawk pads.

 

just to clarify becuase there is a little 'mis information' being said in this thread:

From:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...lections.shtml


DRILLED VS SLOTTED ROTORS

For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.


PAD AREA

We have seen that brake torque is directly proportional to Piston Area, System Pressure, Friction Coefficient and Effective Radii and is not affected by pad area. Pad area and geometry are however important for several reasons:
1) Pad service life. Since pad material is consumed, an increase in pad area results in an increase in the time interval between pad replacements. OE designs often make slight sacrifices in pad life by including tapered ends for reduction of noise, vibration and pad taper. In some OE designs the pads on the two sides of the caliper are even shaped differently, with the inside pad being shorter in arc-length in the direction of rotation and wider radially than the outside pad for system design and integration reasons.
2) Heat dispersion and dissipation over a larger surface area and greater mass. Although in the case of a larger pad, the pad masks a larger portion of the rotor face, absorbing more radiant energy and shielding the area from cooling that may cancel any actual benefit.
3) Geometry: Since rubbing speed between the disc and the pad is greater at the periphery of the disc, the pad geometry will sometimes be designed to reduce the area toward the center of the disc. This is done in an effort to produce even temperature and pressure distribution across the face of the pad.


personally i have drilled and slotted and it's for looks only. the best are blanks which should cost no more then $20 bucks each and last at least 50k miles. if you HAVE to have something go slotted.

 

I have bought the 20 dollar autozone rotors and they instantly warp after 2 hard stops. In the past, I have had brembo blanks, and no warping has occurred. If you go blanks, get quality ones at least.

 

i also have bought the $20 rotors and never had a problem with them over 1.5 years on my 4th gen...fwiw. mine were from pepboys if that means anything... there is no reason a blank should cost $50+ bucks each imo. but use what you all think is best.

 

I have bought the 20 dollar autozone rotors and they instantly warp after 2 hard stops. I have had brembo blanks and no warping has occurred. If you go blanks, get quality ones at least.

 

ohh sheet, i gotta check mine too. it's been 2 years now

 

You can't compare the 3rd or 4th Gen 11" rotors to the 00-01 5th gen 11" rotors...The reason for the easy warping condition is all the material that was removed from the inboard side of the rotors to enable them to clear the larger steering knuckle! There must be nearly 1" of rotor surface missing...That's alot a mass, and loss of the heat sink needed to absorb the energy and heat collected during braking. I never tried Brembo Blanks when I had the 2000 Maxima, but I did put Stillen (Nissan Oem), Oem, Raybestos, Warner and all resulted in the same with EBC pads (greeenstuff) and Oem...Conclusion car to big for brakes or brakes to small for car. That's why I upgraded to Oem 6th Gen 12.6" rotors on the next Maxima my 2003

 

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

 

Since warping is not caused by cheap disc's, how do we fix the "uneven problem".

 

it's in the whitepages...

 

Got it, The article above explains it all. Basically, break in, do not stop all the way when brakes are freaken hot, etc.

The only question that i have to ask is, Does this apply to stock rotors with stock pads? Is there a break in process for stock setups?
Thanks, torgus

 

I've been running Powerslot and Hawk HPS all around for 4 months now. Very impressed.

 

that sucks man, i was wanting those things when i first had my i30 but then read on it and decided against it. blanks are good for me and my max

 

Thats why I'm sticking to blanks, on both my cars.

 

Powerslots frozen rotors are even more impressive

 

np their articles on braking are VERY informative i learned so much by reading them. alot of people throw around misinformation about brakes and braking systems in general i'v found...another good one to read is on brake fluid and why we all should be doing a full flush every 3 years or sooner.

as far as i understand it you should do a break in on any set up regardless if used for racing or DD. oh and i HIGHLY(not that you are using stocks) recommend not using stock nissan pads they are notorious for leaving material on the rotor.

If you do have to stop completely on hot brakes use your rear pads(e brake) to hold the car and not your fronts as they will be ALOT less hot. the front ones do alot more work and obviously generate alot more heat. Warped rears arn't NEARLY as annoying as warped fronts from my experience.



edit:
I just want to touch on 'frozen' rotors for a second. Personally i see them as a huge rip off. But let me explain why:

For the price of the 1 set of cryo'd rotors alone, you could do multiple full(rotors, pads, fluid) brake jobs. on top of that if you bed your brakes in correctly and don't let the pads sit on the rotor when hot you should be fine anyways regarding warping...yes cryo'd rotor warp less but hey still warp. If you warping rotors because of your driving habits it's cheaper to change your habits( It's actually easy i changed mine after learning more about how brakes work from the stoptech white pages) then spend $300 on cryoing your rotors. let me go on:

Mark Link is the Vice President of Operations at Diversified Cryogenics(they freeze rotors for a living) said: “We’ve shown that cryogenically treated rotors will last 130% longer than untreated rotors"

They cost 2-3 times what a stock oem rotor costs more like 4-5 times if you use the cheapest blank you can buy(i'm cheap thats what i do on my DD). Diversified Cryogenics will freeze each rotor you send them for $70 bucks, or you can buy direct from them assuming they stock your rotor from your make and model. But here is the kicker: they only last 30% longer as the president of the company said...Furthermore you need to use a good company that with heat temper them after they have been frozen as well. Not all of them do that, the cheaper the cryo job the more likely they don't heat them after cryoing them.

Furthermore, tests show the Cryo process improves life cycle of rotors in severe duty apps(racing, autoX) by only approximately 2% to 5%. I know alot of race teams do Cryo their rotors. It because in racing, it's a whole different story. You don't want your brakes to give out a lap before the finish line.

My last point is and please correct me if i'm wrong: NO company who sells a BBK cryo their rotors. Super car manufactures don't cryo their rotors. No production car has come stock with cryo'd rotors.

 

this is some great info for all the seniors and noobs good info picking +1