elica

I have a 2001 infiniti i30 as well with the same problem...I have read that the ECM is supposed to be replaced after the IACV is replaced...not sure

Donkeypunch

False.

My idle valve fried and I even drove it like that for acouple days.
The only thing that blew was the fuse for engine control which is for all 4 02 sensors.

The idle was alittle high after replacing, but it learned to idle just by driving it.
I used a aftermarket borgWarner.

elica

I just replaced the IACV and I am still getting the same code along with these symptoms

Symptoms:
Poor acceleration with pinging as the car went up hills.
Occasionally maxed out RPM at approx 3500 as if there was a governor on the engine.
Hesitation in taking off from a start, especially when engine is cold
Transmission appeared to be slipping (extra scary as I had just done a tranny fluid flush prior to this symptom)
SES light comes every day or two with the code P0505
I believe I need to do the reset procedure...can anybody tell me the easiest way to do this?

elica

I have been driving it for a few days now...the engine light comes on and I keep having to reset ...

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

did you replace with oem iacv? or aftermarket crap?

you asked earlier if the ECM has to be replaced at the same time, the answer is not always but you need to pull the ecu and look for damage (burnt chips). if you see it send the ecu for repair and replace your iacv with new oem iacv.

org member maxiiiboy has put together this document here which is good reading for this problem
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...1fNlF5QjQ/view

there is also good info in this thread here:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-seconds.html

good luck

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

unplug your battery overnight

elica

i used aftermarket...whats the easiest way to get to the ecm?
I believe it is on drivers side floorboard ? Is this correct?

elica

unplug battery? Are you referring to disconnect the battery ? This will reset ?

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

aftermarket iacv are claimed to be problematic through a lot of other members here, if it were me and the ecu looks fine i would try to return and replace with oem iacv and see if that solved it

ecm is at floor board between driver and passenger, yes. you'll need a 90 degree screwdriver or small ratchet set. at some point they changed from screw to hex head, i'm not sure when. this video should be helpful:


yes, this typically takes care of it

elica

Yes I have watched all 6 of the videos ..this is one of the few ways I heard the ecm needs to be replaced after the iac motor has been replaced...I guess the next step is to check if the ecm is ok...the screws are pretty difficult to reach.
:confuse d:

elica

I am having the same issues....last night I was finally able to remove the ecm and check it ...well it has a burnt chip...now I will have to replace the ECM

Donkeypunch

That sucks!!!
Can you tell me what fuse is in the engine control slot near the hood popper pls.

AT978

I've tried the procedure many, many, MANY, times. Also I have disconnected the battery overnight with no luck. How are people able to do this with such success?

maxiiiboy

Hmm, that's strange. It's an '01 so it should learn by itself. Assuming your "overnight" was "at least 8 hours" then it's time to look at the inputs your ECU considers when controlling idle speed. There are 15 of them (see FSM, p. EC-505):

• CPS (both POS and REF)
• MAF
• Engine coolant temperature sensor
• TPS
• PNP switch
• PS oil pressure switch
• AC switch
• Ambient Air Temperature Switch and Intake Air Temperature sensor
• Absolute pressure sensor
• VSS
• Other: ignition switch, battery voltage

I would focus on the items under the 2nd, 3rd, and 7th bullet. I would start with cleaning your MAF and checking both your Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor and Air Temp sensor.

2kMax-SE

Excellent post, thanks!
I had downloaded these steps from a manual I found online, but ended up rigging it as I couldnt get through them due to it not staying on without the addition of my foot on the gas pedal.
So my 2000 gle A/T started doing strange things, like revving up and down from idle to around 1500rpms when I put it into park.
It gave me the service engine soon light with a po505 code. I did some research, and then decided I would clean my throttle body as well as my iacv. After doing those things, the issue stopped and surprisingly the ses light went off as well. Then a month or so goes by with it running fine and it starts doing the same thing, and then stopped completely and wouldnt let me put it into drive and wouldnt stay running unless I held my foot on the gas pedal. I ended up going to the pull-a-apart near me and snagged two iacv and a maf sensor. I had tested my iacv before initially and at this point again also and found that it was working after I first cleaned it (the valve and throttle body), but then a month or so later when I tested it again when getting the issues it wouldnt move up and down when turned to the on position in the car. So I installed the new (old) maf sensor and new (old) IAC Valve and it worked for another couple of weeks. Once connected it moved the IACV up and down when turning ignition to on position. (not running)
Then it all came tumbling back a few weeks later (the ses light never went off after I replaced these). Now I was unable to drive it as I couldnt find a solution. (and still havnt officially)
So what I did was I took the throttle cable and tweaked it while someone kept their foot on the gas at a good idle speed 650ish and then tightened the throttle cable back up. It idles higher at around 850 when I put it into park, but im just glad I am able to drive it as I figure the rest of it out. It also spit out a o2 sensor code for the front passenger side bank but I have already replaced so many o2 sensors on this that I dont wanna even think about it anymore.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I guess my question is how would I go through with this procedure if it wont run without gassing it/being rigged like this? Does this mean that I will have to have somebody with a consult II do the work now?

Thanks for all the help!

2kMax-SE

Just so you dont get confused due to my name, and my post being different vehicle models I just wanted to say that I have two white 2000 maximas now. One is an SE, and one is a GLE.

maxiiiboy

What you did is a patch, which you'll need to undo (eventually).
But, first things first: Focus on your P0505. I am pretty certain that your IACV is fried, and that it shorted the associated ECU transistor driver. Proceed in the following order:

• Read the document about ECU failures (link in my signature, below, 2nd link, or 3rd line). Make sure you understand the issues you are facing!
• Get a new IACV from Rockauto.com (Hitachi only: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ac)+valve,6072, $109.79 at RockAuto).
• Get your ECU fixed - suggestions and links in the document.
• Replace both your IACV and your ECU, while undoing your "patch" at the same time.

There should be no need for any "learning" - your car should learn by itself (after your battery was disconnected while your were making the above fixes).
Good luck !