Obnoxious shake - advice?
#1
Obnoxious shake - advice?
I'm reposting this from the "Noob Question Thread" since it hasn't elicited a response there, and will get more views out here. I've searched and searched and can't really find anything similar to my problem.
My 02 auto Max shakes above 50, with certain spots where it seems calm and then it picks up again - example: it's shaking like crazy at 70, but at 75 it calms down slightly, then ramping up to 80 it gets progressively worse again.
When I let off the gas and coast, it seems to be more severe - when it's under load, it still sucks, but isn't quite as bad.
The CV's have less than 15k on them, the tie rod ends are brand new, the rotors/pads are brand new, the struts/strut mounts/strut boots are all brand new, and the alignment has been done twice - both times by the same shop, but I'm not really convinced they did anything. I've had the tires balanced, bled the brakes, inspected everything I can myself, and I can't figure out the problem. I've tried the 6-12, 3-9'oclock shake to check the hub/bearings, but it seems as tight as ever.
The rear tires have mild cupping, but it's not bad. I plan on getting them replaced this weekend, along with my front right wheel hub/bearing.
The problem seems to be originating in the front right - for a while, it seemed as though, at highway speeds, when I veered left it would smooth out, then when I veered right it would shake again. However, I can't really tell for sure whether that's the case or not.
The problem only started around the time I did the brakes and/or tie rod ends (can't remember which for sure), but I also blew a strut two days later, and replaced those this weekend (two weeks later).
Any advice would be greaaaaaat.
Forgot to mention, the car pulls to the right, and I feel the shake through the steering wheel, pedals, and the car itself.
My 02 auto Max shakes above 50, with certain spots where it seems calm and then it picks up again - example: it's shaking like crazy at 70, but at 75 it calms down slightly, then ramping up to 80 it gets progressively worse again.
When I let off the gas and coast, it seems to be more severe - when it's under load, it still sucks, but isn't quite as bad.
The CV's have less than 15k on them, the tie rod ends are brand new, the rotors/pads are brand new, the struts/strut mounts/strut boots are all brand new, and the alignment has been done twice - both times by the same shop, but I'm not really convinced they did anything. I've had the tires balanced, bled the brakes, inspected everything I can myself, and I can't figure out the problem. I've tried the 6-12, 3-9'oclock shake to check the hub/bearings, but it seems as tight as ever.
The rear tires have mild cupping, but it's not bad. I plan on getting them replaced this weekend, along with my front right wheel hub/bearing.
The problem seems to be originating in the front right - for a while, it seemed as though, at highway speeds, when I veered left it would smooth out, then when I veered right it would shake again. However, I can't really tell for sure whether that's the case or not.
The problem only started around the time I did the brakes and/or tie rod ends (can't remember which for sure), but I also blew a strut two days later, and replaced those this weekend (two weeks later).
Any advice would be greaaaaaat.
Forgot to mention, the car pulls to the right, and I feel the shake through the steering wheel, pedals, and the car itself.
#2
sounds like the wheel bearing, i had almost all the same problems. i could feel it through the floor board. I too did the 3 and 6 test and it didnt move. My mechanic had a stethoscope to listen to them. All in all i changed it and it sounds great now. good luck.
#3
To me it sounds like a blown strut - yes i read where you wrote you just replaced them. A blown strut usually shakes around 65+mph. Thats my only thought, because a bad bearing will shake always not just at certain speeds. I'm not a certified mechanic but thats usually my experiences in this case.
Maxima112 --give what he said a shot. It might fix the problem.
Maxima112 --give what he said a shot. It might fix the problem.
#4
To me it sounds like a blown strut - yes i read where you wrote you just replaced them. A blown strut usually shakes around 65+mph. Thats my only thought, because a bad bearing will shake always not just at certain speeds. I'm not a certified mechanic but thats usually my experiences in this case.
Maxima112 --give what he said a shot. It might fix the problem.
Maxima112 --give what he said a shot. It might fix the problem.
It does shake at pretty much all speeds, but it just shakes LESS at certain speeds.
And I will try his idea tomorrow afternoon (gotta wait for the paycheck) - I might as well do the wheel bearings on both sides if I'm going that route.
Thanks, guys. I appreciate the advice - this site has been a life saver over the past few years.
#6
This might be a possibility, but you could potentially have a slightly bent rim. Rotating the wheels might move the problem around, but might at least help you find out if it's the wheels themselves or something else.
S
S
#7
Wheels or tires could do it. A tire can be significantly jacked up without looking bad. As long as the back wheels and tires aren't equally whacked then swapping with the fronts would expose a problem along these lines.
#8
Can I set this one on fire and get a new one?
#10
#11
Roadforce balnce will measure your wheel runout and balance the tires/wheels and find the best location for the tire on the wheel to minimize the amount of weights for the optimum balance! It's only one balancer out there to ask if they are equipped with it...The hunter 9600.
#13
Roadforce balnce will measure your wheel runout and balance the tires/wheels and find the best location for the tire on the wheel to minimize the amount of weights for the optimum balance! It's only one balancer out there to ask if they are equipped with it...The hunter 9600.
I'll have to look at a picture to see what you're talking about with the intermediate bearing.
Just inspected the LCA bushings, and they're shot.
#14
The fact that it seems to change with power on.......then coasting, makes it quite possible that it's related to the driveline. Unless you personally did it yourself, or witnessed the torquing (not just impacted) of the axle/bearing locknut/s, then I'd sure check it/them. It wouldn't be the first time these things have been found loose after front end work. You seem to have covered everything else. Just saw your LCA bushing comment. Have fun.
#16
The fact that it seems to change with power on.......then coasting, makes it quite possible that it's related to the driveline. Unless you personally did it yourself, or witnessed the torquing (not just impacted) of the axle/bearing locknut/s, then I'd sure check it/them. It wouldn't be the first time these things have been found loose after front end work. You seem to have covered everything else. Just saw your LCA bushing comment. Have fun.
#17
Common factor is the tires. They will pass the balance act but what you're experiencing are bad tire with broken belts The cupping and lumps/welps. Swap/rotate the rear wheels to front and front to the rear ....If the rears have no cupping. Your steering wheel is feeling like the wheels/tires are following every little longitudal crack and trying to pull the steering wheel from your hands. Don't feel bad this broke tire belt syndrome has whipped alot of a$$es, even those suspension specialist and tire guys.
#18
Common factor is the tires. They will pass the balance act but what you're experiencing are bad tire with broken belts The cupping and lumps/welps. Swap/rotate the rear wheels to front and front to the rear ....If the rears have no cupping. Your steering wheel is feeling like the wheels/tires are following every little longitudal crack and trying to pull the steering wheel from your hands. Don't feel bad this broke tire belt syndrome has whipped alot of a$$es, even those suspension specialist and tire guys.
#20
Hey I have this same problem, just picked up the car on Tuesday. The shaking starts at about 65mph and didn't go away up to 75mph (I drive in traffic all day, that was all I could do).
The shaking gets pretty rough, you can feel it right through the steering wheel. The car is completely docile around town at lower speeds, though.
Goin back to the dealer!
The shaking gets pretty rough, you can feel it right through the steering wheel. The car is completely docile around town at lower speeds, though.
Goin back to the dealer!
#21
Any vibration that starts around 60-75 mph is usually tire balance related....which could be a simple rebalance or could be tire with belt shift. Bent rims are felt at all speeds depending on the severity. Vibration only while braking, is usually brake related, especially common on you 11" 00-01 Maximas...one hard panic stop from 75 mph and the Good vibrations begin!
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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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10-02-2015 08:56 AM