I did a search on these issues but using the search lately for me is as successful as fishing with a boomerang.

I have 01 SE Auto about 80K on it. Today while exercising it a bit I did a manual hold in 1st from a stop to about 6400 and shifted to 2nd the tranny BANGED really hard (seemed more like the passenger side really jostled) do I have a motor mount checking out on the passenger side? Other than pulling it and looking for tears is there anyone else who's had this and found a dead mount on a auto? I only notice it when manually revving out 1st to 2nd - 2nd to 3rd is fine. I only did it twice to confirm.

Also my cigaretter lighter (power port) seems dead. Nothing will work in it. Are these units prone to dying? I checked the fuse and it is good. Anyone had a power port die out?

TIA

 

I have heard from a few nissan techs, that there is no reason to ever swap the upper left and right mounts on the car. The front and rear lower are another story

 

Thanks for the info. So I should be looking at those? What are the issues pre'tell.

 

Nothing wrong with the shift, manually shifting usually makes the transmission shift with full line pressure and you did it at a high rpm, hence a hard feeling shift.

 

I agree with scott, your tranny wasn't happy with the hard shift

 

What u mean manual shift? Step on the gas, let go and step on it Again? if yes, I heard doing it often will f..k up your tranny, true?

 

Huh?

Manually shifting an automatic is moving the lever through the gears up or down rather than let the transmission shift for itself.

Manual upshifts are perfectly fine and won't hurt the transmission but it may eventually wear out the shifter if you do it all the time. Manual downshifts are fine too, although it is best not to downshift into 1st until you stop.

 

He means the fastest way to shift an auto w/o manually moving the lever. You run it right to the point when it shifts, then you let off and it shifts fast and right as it's shifting you punch it again. (I assume that's what he means, that's how I make an auto get up and go)

I had a '00 auto 120k and used the lever to shift all day lol (using the technique above with it), practically every stop sign and light. It loved it (seriously). It shifted like butter every time (and the fluid was basically shot - oops). If it's banging, I would say it doesn't like it and don't do it if you want the tranny to last.

 

Why would anyone do something like that? Keep it floored as you move the shifter. If you lift, you are slowing your car down. Guarantee you take it to the dragstrip, keeping it floored vs lifting as you shift, staying on the gas will give better times.

 

im lost now. 01 auto comes with manual mode?

 

b/c it wants to engage faster if you let off a little right as it starts to shift, then you mash it again. It takes it time at WOT and high rpms, or at least that's how all the autos I drove do. I haven't driven an auto in many years now, though....

 

No-well sorta- you move the lever to "1" floor it and shift manually to "2" as the revs hit about 6400 and then it grabs second about a spilt second later (which is about 6500-6700)...that's where I am getting a REALLY HARD shift.

Now back to the program....the 1st to second manual shift almost shakes the dash...and this is normal? If so I will only use it when I have to...but it sure sems like it is a ton harsher than other autos I've manually shifted. COuld anything be up with the front or rear lower motor mounts? If so what to look for?

 

OK seriously, if you want to shift a car, buy a manual. The few exceptions are auto drivers taking advantage of power passed redline (4th gens with VIs). There is no reason to do that to your car. Downshifting an auto is not healthy on the transmission.

 

Doesn't work that way. Full throttle shifts with an automatic will shift it at full line pressure. Lift before the shift and it won't. The only reason it may make the car feel quicker is bacause you feel the pull when you get back on the gas after letting off.

scrhale-my car shifts at an indicated 6000-6300 (pretty random) at full throttle shifts. In 1st and 2nd, manually shifting at an indicated 6500 rpm makes the car pull harder after the shift since it goes into the next gear at a higher rpm.

 

gpmax-could be a loose mount making the shift feel harder than it is. Open the hood and have someone sit in the driver's seat with the parking brake on AND their foot firmly on the brake (maybe even chock the wheels for added safety) and have them put the car in gear and give it some gas (no need to rev the crap out of it, maybe 1500-2000 rpms). If you have bad motor mounts you should see a lot of movement in the engine.

 

Thanks Scott...I am getting a buddy over soon to help do exactly that. I think something is a bit off...but we'll see.

 

I never said anything about "downshifting" it. Its also been my experience that a properly maintained auto tranny is just as reliable as a manual. I will not be doing this all the time-the fact that I did it and noticed an issue is the reason for my post.

 

Is the 1st/2nd shift hard if you just leave it in drive or is it only when you shift in manually? I've always heard bad things about manually shifting an automatic all the time. I have nothing to back that up, I'm just telling you what I have been told.

I would obviously stop shifting manually until you figure out what the issue is. Check the motor mounts, tranny fluid, etc. Use a prybar and see if you can get any movement out of your tranmission.

 

As I mentioned in the 1st post its only when manually shifting the auto. And as I mentioned I just did it once or twice to try it out in case I do want to do it in the future (i.e., any impromptu redlight encounters). That's when I noticed the issue. I am inspecting the mounts right away.

 

Its a motor mount and im guessing the rear one. Mine is a manual, but the rear went out at about 92K. I wouldnt have a hard time beliveing that one went out at 80k.

 

Thanks! I am hoping that's it.

 

I can see what you are getting at here. If the auto computer is not shifting consistently and you are trying to get times then it is legit, but sitting at a red light and running up the gears is just unreasonable and unhealthy. Just a note, floating into red line or higher just to come back into a higher RPM is not always faster. It could be the case that 7K in 2nd is actually lower in the powerband than its equivalent in 3rd. NOTE: I am not saying you are going to 7K, but you get the point. I see that you stated you are just trying to shift consistently at 6.5K (which is legit as well), but I would actually bet even that is not optimal. I am not speaking from first hand experience, but I am pretty sure redline to the -T- is not actually the optimal shift point (only a dyno can tell).