almoodie

Hi,

2003 Maxima GLE 75K miles

There is a noise from the left front as if someone was rhythmically
knocking a block of hardwood against the bodywork.

The noise ONLY appears when I am NEITHER accellerating or braking.

The noise ONLY happens when the front wheels are pointing straight
ahead, disappears when I turn the wheel.

The noise ONLY appears between 20 - 40 mph, disappears at higher
speeds

There is zero vibration feedback through the steering wheel

The noise appears to be more pronounced when it is raining?

I do not believe it is a wheel bearing problem, I have had faulty
wheel bearings before.

I do not it is a CV Joint problem as I have had CV Joint problems
before. Also there is zero noise when turning.

I have jacked up the left front. Lug nuts are at correct torque. No
wheel bearing play. No sign of tire being out of round. Removed the
wheel. No obvious sign of play in any joints. No obvious wear on any
rubber bushes. The rubber bush for stabilizer bar looks slightly worn
where it surrounds the stabilizer bar (whole is too large).

Have checked and torqued all suspension nuts, bolts. Shock absorber
appears undamaged.

I might be imagining it but it appears there is a muffled low level
vibration all the time now.

Only thing I can think of the the top area where the strut attaches to
the bodywork. I am not familiar with this area. What's in this area,
bearing, rubber mount. Is this area the likely source of my problem.

Al Moodie.

BigFonsz

end-link also check to see if the brake caliper is sticking..

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

I suggest replacing the swaybar subframe bushings with the ES bushings and replacing the swaybar endlinks with the MOOG endlinks.

Check out this thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...end-links.html

4DSCDriver

Me and Scottwax had the same exact issues with our cars. Mine turned out to be endlinks and his turned out to be the wheel bearing. I use Moog parts and they work very well. Install was fast and easy..maybe an hour.

That Girl

That same thing happened to me about a month ago. Turned out to be the right front bearing and hub. I had about 77K miles on my '03 at that time.

That Girl

Just looked at my receipt/work order. They replaced some kind of link also. Maybe the endlink like these other guys are talking about

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

It's probably not this, but just check to see if the wheel is loose. I had the same symptoms and that was the problem strangely enough... just tightened up the lug nuts

SomeAngryGuy

Hey Almoodie,


My 03 GLE is also having a strange front end noise... it drives me crazy. I just hit 90,000 miles. I've noticed that it happens between 1.5 and 2.2 on the tach, and is most noticeable when I am maintaining speed, rather than when accelerating. To several of my savvy friends it sounded like a loose heat shield.

Today I had a mechanic tighten up everything and give it a good inspection. The noise is less, but not gone. They think it is my upper strut bearing and told me to wait until I'm switching out suspension to save cost.

I'm not the mechanical type, but your:
"Only thing I can think of the the top area where the strut attaches to
the bodywork. I am not familiar with this area. What's in this area,
bearing, rubber mount. Is this area the likely source of my problem."
...sounds alot like what my mechanic told me today.

Please post if you get it figured out, I've been hating this sound for a year now.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

This isnt making sense to me. You say it seems to be related to engine RPM which would make sense for a heat shield, but it doesnt make sense for anything in the strut mount assembly. If it was the strut bearing/mount, it would be related to hitting bumps or turning the steering wheel.

BTW - Thats a funny username

almoodie

[QUOTE=kgallerie;6937781]This isnt making sense to me. You say it seems to be related to engine RPM which would make sense for a heat shield, but it doesnt make sense for anything in the strut mount assembly. If it was the strut bearing/mount, it would be related to hitting bumps or turning the steering wheel.

Hi kgallerie,

My noise is not related to bumps or turning the wheel, in fact I can eliminate the noise by turning the wheel, so in that case it should not be the strut mount assembly.

The noise sound like there is something embedded in the tire tread, it is a rhythmic thump thump thump, but then it disappears if you accelerate or brake, or turn the wheel and it only happens around 30 - 50 mph. I'm leaning more towards stabilizer subframebushings, or end link bushes.

Al Moodie.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

I was responding to SomeAngryGuy.

I do agree that your problem could be swaybar bushings or endlinks per my post #3.

However, i would think that if it was those things it would be affected by bumps too. Does the noise seem to happen every time the wheel goes around? or is the frequency not related to the wheel revolutions?

Jreed2008

iTrader: (5)

Do what I did and keep your music up really loud problem solved .... But seriously it could be any number of things you might have to start taking the whole front end apart. Im hoping my noise is just wheel bearing related.

smomax02

I have 02 max and I also have noise on the front right side of car. It happens when I go over bumps either fast or slow. I had new KYB struts put in about 4 months ago and the sounds seems to be getting worse. I had the struts put in at the dealership. At that time the sounds happened once in awhile, didn't think it was a big deal. Now it happens all the time. It feels like there is some play in the sub frame or something. I had the dealership check what I was talking about. Replaced lower control arm, sway bar links, ball joint, and still can seem to find the problem. The left side doesn't do it, only the right....I can't think of anything else that could possible make a clunk sound than what I mentioned above. I need help, this is really bothering me!!!!

almoodie

When the noise happens the frequency appears to be in sync with wheel rotation, but it's hard to tell because if I accelerate or decellerate the noise disappears.

Will replace the swaybar bushes and check the end link bushes this week and report back.

almoodie

Replaced swaybar bushes and checked end links, can't find any free play in them. Noise is less than before and front end seems more precise and tight, but still slight thump thump thump in time with wheel rotation on downhill slope at around 40 mph, neutral throttle. Will drive car for a few days and see how it goes.

Deckdout2

iTrader: (151)

I've had this same exact issue for a bit now. The whole, "more pronounced in the rain" and everything. I have new Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings in everything except the rear trailing arm. I also have brand new ball joints and endlinks, installed the same time the bushings were a few months back.

The only thing I don't have new is the wheel bearings. I'm thinking this is the culprit. After reading through numerous threads about noises here and there, most of these have resulted down to the wheel bearings. It's funny cause there's also one thing in common with the different types of sounds and symptoms, they have mostly reverted back to the bearings being the issue.

Luckily I have new ones awaiting install in my spindles I got from my donor car. I'll get back and report my results when these are in.

Good luck with your nuisance.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Is the sound coming in sound like its low or high in relation to dashboard or floorboard! Last time I run around like this...it was a freakin side engine mount that liked good but was cracked and that thud sound was the engine moving around! Don't give up you'll find it!

almoodie

Problem turned out to be a failed right wheel bearing.
Cost to repair at my local shop:
Bearing $89
Labor 3 hours at $79 per hour
About $350 including tax

My diagnosis was poor. I thought the noise was from the Left ???. Symptoms were a rhythmic thumping noise at first, almost like on out-of-round tire, then the noise became a growl as time passed.
On the lift the diagnosis was easy at the shop, wheel could be moved in the vertical plane by using a hand at the top and bottom of the tire. A most confusing problem, I should have taken it to the shop earlier.