01 Auto Climate Control not blowing cold air
#1
01 Auto Climate Control not blowing cold air
I have an 01 GLE w/auto climate control - approx 117k miles.
My car doesn't blow cold air on economy mode. The air is cool, but never seems as cold as it is from outside. Recently I got into an accident http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...accidents.html and now the AC does not blow cold air. The compressor kicks in when I put it in auto and defrost. Before the accident the a/c would blow cold air, but not artic cold. It was good enough for me.
Readings: [ Ambient | In-Vehicle | Air Intake ]
Anyways, I did the self diagnostic and recorded the temp readings:
Yesterday it was approx 72 w/clear sky and lots of sun = [ 75 | 92 | 92 ]
Last night after driving for 25 mins with Economy, Fan Speed 1, Temp set at 60, recirculation off, Actual outside Temp 55 = [ 58 | 72 |68 ]
This morning [ 54 | 55 | 56 ] respectively.
What do you guys think? I've had the car back for a few weeks so the emissions monitors must be set by now. I have the service manual and will run through the testing procedure with the multimeter to check the sensors and wires. Was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue. I was under the assumption that any setting at the extreme (60 or 90) should blow cold or hot air regardless of sensor input.
My car doesn't blow cold air on economy mode. The air is cool, but never seems as cold as it is from outside. Recently I got into an accident http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...accidents.html and now the AC does not blow cold air. The compressor kicks in when I put it in auto and defrost. Before the accident the a/c would blow cold air, but not artic cold. It was good enough for me.
Readings: [ Ambient | In-Vehicle | Air Intake ]
Anyways, I did the self diagnostic and recorded the temp readings:
Yesterday it was approx 72 w/clear sky and lots of sun = [ 75 | 92 | 92 ]
Last night after driving for 25 mins with Economy, Fan Speed 1, Temp set at 60, recirculation off, Actual outside Temp 55 = [ 58 | 72 |68 ]
This morning [ 54 | 55 | 56 ] respectively.
What do you guys think? I've had the car back for a few weeks so the emissions monitors must be set by now. I have the service manual and will run through the testing procedure with the multimeter to check the sensors and wires. Was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue. I was under the assumption that any setting at the extreme (60 or 90) should blow cold or hot air regardless of sensor input.
#2
Just pulled a reading of [ 71 | 86 | 84 ] with it being about 68 outside. This was after running economy at 60 while driving for 5 mins. Those two interior sensors always seem high to me. I was wondering if someone had a few mins and could check something on their car for me.
1) Start the engine
2) Within 10 seconds, hold down the OFF button on the climate control
3) All LCDS should light up. Turn the temp **** clock wire until "51" shows up.
4) Press F-Defrost button once, record the number
5) Press F-Defrost button again, record the number
6) Press F-Defrost button again, record the number.
Post it here, and tell me what you were last doing with the car. If the numbers see okay or off given which environment you are in.
Thanks in advance!
BTW: Found out my Low-line is leaking at a pressure fitting. Called my guy to inquire about a replacement. I still thik I have a sensor issue as well though.
1) Start the engine
2) Within 10 seconds, hold down the OFF button on the climate control
3) All LCDS should light up. Turn the temp **** clock wire until "51" shows up.
4) Press F-Defrost button once, record the number
5) Press F-Defrost button again, record the number
6) Press F-Defrost button again, record the number.
Post it here, and tell me what you were last doing with the car. If the numbers see okay or off given which environment you are in.
Thanks in advance!
BTW: Found out my Low-line is leaking at a pressure fitting. Called my guy to inquire about a replacement. I still thik I have a sensor issue as well though.
#4
#5
I have the same symptoms. I think it's because the air is running through the heater core without getting conditioned so it's collecting heat as a result.
#6
the air is also captured by the fire wall on the top right corner of the car, when you drive and your engine is being cooled off by air, some of that warm air gets into the intake for the in cabin air. The fact that the heater core is inside the dash and gets very hot doesn't help it either.
ECON mode will not turn on your A/C compressor.
when you set your climate control to 60 in the ECON mode, it will only get as cold as the outside air plus a few degrees higher due to the facts stated above.
ECON mode will not turn on your A/C compressor.
when you set your climate control to 60 in the ECON mode, it will only get as cold as the outside air plus a few degrees higher due to the facts stated above.
#7
Thanks for the clarification. I assumed that air only passed through the heater core when heat was on.
I am aware that the compressor doesn't run with Econ. I prefer to drive around like that until I need the A/C
I am aware that the compressor doesn't run with Econ. I prefer to drive around like that until I need the A/C
#9
I didn't think to check if there is an actuating door to bypass the heater core. I will look into that.
#11
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
There's nothing wrong with your system, you're not using it correctly.
Have the refrigerent level checked by a qualified A/C service tech if you don't feel it's blowing as cold as it should be when set to cool.
An owners manual is the most unread publication.
Have the refrigerent level checked by a qualified A/C service tech if you don't feel it's blowing as cold as it should be when set to cool.
An owners manual is the most unread publication.
#13
I have an 01 GLE w/auto climate control - approx 117k miles.
My car doesn't blow cold air on economy mode. The air is cool, but never seems as cold as it is from outside. Recently I got into an accident http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...accidents.html and now the AC does not blow cold air. The compressor kicks in when I put it in auto and defrost. Before the accident the a/c would blow cold air, but not artic cold. It was good enough for me.
Readings: [ Ambient | In-Vehicle | Air Intake ]
Anyways, I did the self diagnostic and recorded the temp readings:
Yesterday it was approx 72 w/clear sky and lots of sun = [ 75 | 92 | 92 ]
Last night after driving for 25 mins with Economy, Fan Speed 1, Temp set at 60, recirculation off, Actual outside Temp 55 = [ 58 | 72 |68 ]
This morning [ 54 | 55 | 56 ] respectively.
What do you guys think? I've had the car back for a few weeks so the emissions monitors must be set by now. I have the service manual and will run through the testing procedure with the multimeter to check the sensors and wires. Was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue. I was under the assumption that any setting at the extreme (60 or 90) should blow cold or hot air regardless of sensor input.
My car doesn't blow cold air on economy mode. The air is cool, but never seems as cold as it is from outside. Recently I got into an accident http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...accidents.html and now the AC does not blow cold air. The compressor kicks in when I put it in auto and defrost. Before the accident the a/c would blow cold air, but not artic cold. It was good enough for me.
Readings: [ Ambient | In-Vehicle | Air Intake ]
Anyways, I did the self diagnostic and recorded the temp readings:
Yesterday it was approx 72 w/clear sky and lots of sun = [ 75 | 92 | 92 ]
Last night after driving for 25 mins with Economy, Fan Speed 1, Temp set at 60, recirculation off, Actual outside Temp 55 = [ 58 | 72 |68 ]
This morning [ 54 | 55 | 56 ] respectively.
What do you guys think? I've had the car back for a few weeks so the emissions monitors must be set by now. I have the service manual and will run through the testing procedure with the multimeter to check the sensors and wires. Was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue. I was under the assumption that any setting at the extreme (60 or 90) should blow cold or hot air regardless of sensor input.
Another problem is a bad sensor, you mentioned the diagnostic test, what is the respective order for replacement, i believe the third readout is 131 deg f. Which sensor should I replace?
Last edited by StillenMax80x20; 03-30-2009 at 01:58 PM.
#14
Yeah, I dont know man. If outside air is 60 and I set inside to 60, it seems that the car is heating it on econ mode. I pulled my vent off a few days back and confirmed that the flap is closing from the heater core to route the air past it and not through it. It was hard to see and almost dropped my mirror in there. Good thing I tied it to a piece of rope. The reason I was thinking the sensor could be bad is because there is a tsb to replace the air intake sensor if it blows cold when set to Auto and 1 degree below full hot.
Minor update: I had a leaking A/C line which I had replaced last Friday. A/c works, but I still think air blows warmer than outside temp when set to the lowest on econ.
Minor update: I had a leaking A/C line which I had replaced last Friday. A/c works, but I still think air blows warmer than outside temp when set to the lowest on econ.
#15
If you want the air to be cooled, don't select the ECON setting.
#17
BTW... not to start ****, but I would say that the leading cause of traffic jams is more likely the misinterpretation of "merging" than "people driving slow"
Although they go hand in hand I'm sure.
lol
#18
Hit the recirculate button to close off the vents otherwise it will let air flow through from outside through the floor vents. You can hit the mode button to direct the free flowing air where ever you want it.
#19
I actually noticed a similar problem, actually, If I turn the air off completely, it blows hot. As NSN rider mentioned, I will try econ mode with it set to 60 for air that is at ext. temp(+/-). One of my problems is that when I turn the heat off, hot air will still come through.
Another problem is a bad sensor, you mentioned the diagnostic test, what is the respective order for replacement, i believe the third readout is 131 deg f. Which sensor should I replace?
Another problem is a bad sensor, you mentioned the diagnostic test, what is the respective order for replacement, i believe the third readout is 131 deg f. Which sensor should I replace?
#20
The good news is that the sensor is only about $12 when you order it from Dave Burnette at SouthPoint Nissan.
The replacement procedure is a little involved, but not impossible. It does NOT involve cracking open the AC system, so no need to worry about that.
Remove the glove box, and look to the leftmost part of the visible area of the HVAC system and you'll see where the black parts merge with white parts just as it goes behind the center console. You'll see a white connector attached to the black ductwork. One end goes to the center console, the other side disappears into the black HVAC system.
I seriously hope somebody has a simpler way to do this, but from what I understand it is a pain. However I'd rather get a few scrapes on my fingers and know I'm doing it right rather than pay some ham-fisted mechanic to break stuff while doing it.
You'll see right away that the HVAC box is more or less two halves, top and bottom. What you'll need to do is remove the blower motor (good time to give it a nice cleaning anyway, there are probably leaves and stuff in there) and about 10 other screws, and 2 spring clips I think.
You'll be able to pull the two halves apart maybe an inch, but I was not able to totally split the halves like I wanted to do.
When you remove the broken sensor, pay attention to how it fit in there between the fins, I messed up and gve it a good yank and realized I didn't know how to install the new one. (because of the angle and working blindly, I didn't realize I just had to shove the long thin end in between the fins.)
I was not able to get the new sensor as far back in there as the original one, so I mounted it more towards the center because that's the best I could do. It seems to be working fine though, no idea why it wouldn't.
It can be done. It will take patience and a little creativity. Go slow and pay attention.
#21
I just did mine last weekend.
The good news is that the sensor is only about $12 when you order it from Dave Burnette at SouthPoint Nissan.
The replacement procedure is a little involved, but not impossible. It does NOT involve cracking open the AC system, so no need to worry about that.
Remove the glove box, and look to the leftmost part of the visible area of the HVAC system and you'll see where the black parts merge with white parts just as it goes behind the center console. You'll see a white connector attached to the black ductwork. One end goes to the center console, the other side disappears into the black HVAC system.
I seriously hope somebody has a simpler way to do this, but from what I understand it is a pain. However I'd rather get a few scrapes on my fingers and know I'm doing it right rather than pay some ham-fisted mechanic to break stuff while doing it.
You'll see right away that the HVAC box is more or less two halves, top and bottom. What you'll need to do is remove the blower motor (good time to give it a nice cleaning anyway, there are probably leaves and stuff in there) and about 10 other screws, and 2 spring clips I think.
You'll be able to pull the two halves apart maybe an inch, but I was not able to totally split the halves like I wanted to do.
When you remove the broken sensor, pay attention to how it fit in there between the fins, I messed up and gve it a good yank and realized I didn't know how to install the new one. (because of the angle and working blindly, I didn't realize I just had to shove the long thin end in between the fins.)
I was not able to get the new sensor as far back in there as the original one, so I mounted it more towards the center because that's the best I could do. It seems to be working fine though, no idea why it wouldn't.
It can be done. It will take patience and a little creativity. Go slow and pay attention.
The good news is that the sensor is only about $12 when you order it from Dave Burnette at SouthPoint Nissan.
The replacement procedure is a little involved, but not impossible. It does NOT involve cracking open the AC system, so no need to worry about that.
Remove the glove box, and look to the leftmost part of the visible area of the HVAC system and you'll see where the black parts merge with white parts just as it goes behind the center console. You'll see a white connector attached to the black ductwork. One end goes to the center console, the other side disappears into the black HVAC system.
I seriously hope somebody has a simpler way to do this, but from what I understand it is a pain. However I'd rather get a few scrapes on my fingers and know I'm doing it right rather than pay some ham-fisted mechanic to break stuff while doing it.
You'll see right away that the HVAC box is more or less two halves, top and bottom. What you'll need to do is remove the blower motor (good time to give it a nice cleaning anyway, there are probably leaves and stuff in there) and about 10 other screws, and 2 spring clips I think.
You'll be able to pull the two halves apart maybe an inch, but I was not able to totally split the halves like I wanted to do.
When you remove the broken sensor, pay attention to how it fit in there between the fins, I messed up and gve it a good yank and realized I didn't know how to install the new one. (because of the angle and working blindly, I didn't realize I just had to shove the long thin end in between the fins.)
I was not able to get the new sensor as far back in there as the original one, so I mounted it more towards the center because that's the best I could do. It seems to be working fine though, no idea why it wouldn't.
It can be done. It will take patience and a little creativity. Go slow and pay attention.
#22
A/C only works on 60
I have a 02 maxima with auto air and when I do the test for the three temperature readings I get 60/60/-21 If the 3rd reading on the automatic air test is -21 does that mean I need to replace the sensor assy, thermister as well - the $12 dollar part described in the post?
#23
That -21 reading means that the Intake Sensor (part # 27723-4P000 msrp $12.28) is dead. It could be unplugged but the sensor is under the dash so someone would have to intentionally unplug it.
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