that is the thing, the idle chip on that ecu is not damaged, only the chip that controls the motor mounts, but i am not sure what else that chip controls. So technically once i put in manual mounts, I could of reused the damaged ecu, but I didnt want to take any chances.

 

The picture you posted shows damage to both chips, the NEC chip for
the motor mounts and the Sanken STA509A that controls the idle.

 

the picture is from my original ECU, the one i ended up sending it to get repaired. The second ecu, only the NEC chip fried.

 

Well, i have a 5 speed 2000 maxima, so i am assuming that i don't have the electronic mount. I had the P0505 code, replaced the IACV, then reset the ECU. The check engine light came back after a few hours drive. Disconnect the ECU and open it to look inside but no damage that i can see. Some questions maybe someone here can help:
1. I have not done the idle air learning curve yet, will that cause the P0505 code even the ECU and IACV are both ok?
2. If i need to get "new" ECU, how to tell my car manufacture date, federal or california, 17" or 16" wheel? Apparently there are a lot of different models, and the number on the ECE are not helping much.

Any input is greatly appreciated. I will try to do the idle air learning curve tonight and reported back. Thanks.

 

Yeah I just bought a 2001 5-speed with the same P0505 code. The car will not idle only under the first cold start. If I give it some gas and count to five it will idle, but after reading about all this ECU short out crap, I'm honestly kind of scared here. So from my understanding the manual transmission models don't have to worry about the stupid electronic motor mounts, but our IACV can still short it out.

I don't really have the extra money to spend now, but I think it's worth being broke for a week if my car functions properly and the ECU doesn't short out. I have a buddy that is a Nissan technician so do you all think it would be wise to just let him handle the whole installation and relearn procedures?

 

how can u check if your motor mounts have gone bad???

 

I had the same problem and it turned out it was a combination of things. The first and major one was I had a vacuum leak in my system that tripped the IACV code, luckily my family knows a good mechanic and he sourced that as the problem.

Secondly, I had that dieing while cold crap and thanks to the board, and my luck, I found out that it was the Intake Manifold Gasket. I say luck in that the mechanic (who had my car at the time I found out about the Gasket) had to replace the gasket because he took off my intake manifold to get to the rear valve cover.

And finally, somewhere along the way I cleaned my MAF to rid myself of some bogging only to find out that my Cat. isn't working right. IT runs better but my computer seems to be going into a mode where I have less power. Just more bills! The whole time, I was so worried about the ECU problems too so I think that unplugging these mounts is the next thing on my list even if it is just for peace of mind!

 

Kaane do you still have those pictures of your ECM? if you do can you e-mail them to me please at mrubio4602@aol.com or post them again, I was unable to view them on this page. Thanks

 

Taking in count what Copilot1991 mentioned regarding a vacuum leak trigering the p0505, which is the easiest way to test for a leak without really removing parts or componets, can I just spray carburator cleaner around the vaccum hoses while engine is running and if the car revs up or down I found a leak? I am not sure if that is the way to test for leaks but I have heard that before, have any one tried that before and has it worked?

 

any better pics of the motor mount plugs

 

The pics posted on page 1 should be good enough. Otherwise look at my earlier posts in this thread to see the wire colors.

 

I'm replacing my 2000 Front and Rear Motor Mounts (auto). I ordered the ES 7-1114 . Well I took it down to a shop to press them out. Done...check that off my list.

The problem: the ES mounts are small for the motor mount brackets. doh. For those of you that replaced the electric ones with the ES mounts, were they snug fit when you press the news ones in?

 

Those energy ES mounts will only work on cars with manual transmissions. You need to order a set of manual transmission mounts to press those es mounts into.

 

Thank you. What I had read on this forum that it wasn't necessary but I trust that you had experienced the same problem.

 

I just did the same exact thing.... with my 2003 auto....I was able to finda 95 MT front motor mount for $14.00 in the boneyard! I pressed mine in with the car....

 

I learned the hard way so I'm telling others with the 2000 Autos where/what to buy and how to change it:

Buy your mounts from the junk yard or (too lazy like me) from an online dealer:

Motor mounts for MT: http://www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com
$72.31 Front / $64.95 Rear
Nissan Dealer - Woodmen Nissan of Colorado Springs

Energy Suspension Inserts: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114
Part number: 7.1114
Installation directions: http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17426.PDF
Cost: $83.17 (includes both front and rear)

Maxima.org Writeup from another member: Click here

Thank to the generous and helpful members of this site for their expert advice. This information is dedicated to you.

 

Hey, you know I burned out the rear ones and on the fronts I used a reciprocating saw/sheetrock saw and cut the rubber out of the mount then I hacksawed the outer shell in 2 more spots and removed it with a hammer and chisel. This method seemed quicker and cleaner than the torch method. Then I jacked up the car and pressed it in using my car!

 

I just failed inspection on my 2000 Maxima, automatic, for the motor mount. Of course the guy that failed me didn't specify which mount was broken so I took it to my mechanic and they said this is a dealer item and it comes in 2 parts which runs about $250, not including labor.

After reading this, I'm thinking of making myself a DIY project out of it.

I read the TSB looking .jpg on the first page and it says that you need to idle the engine after warm up at higher than 1000rpm. Is this necessary or should I just unplug them?

 

How did you fail? It put out a code during the inspection? Or was it so bad that the inspector noticed it while driving your car?

 

Hi guys,
I've been looking for an answer to this question forever and have finally found the thread of people who know. I have a 2000 I30. The front and rear electronic mounts are bad. I found inexpensive aftermarket mounts that look to fit perfectly, but they are not electronic. My mechanic thinks that if he replaces for non-electronic ones, the check engine (SES) light will come on and stay on forever, so I won't even be able to pass the emissions inspection (which is a deal breaker). Can you tell me if that's true - if I unplug the mounts and replace with non-electronic ones (so nothing to plug in again) will the light come one or will no light come on and I am in the clear? I really appreciate any input. Thanks.

 

My mounts are unplugged and I have no SES light. Additionally, I no reason why the light should come on.

 

Hi, i have a 2000 max gle..
my icv is toast and my ecu is burnt. when i open the ecu, it is not the typical ST chip that is burnt but is an NEC chip.

i just installed my ICV, and if i install my ECU, it starts again.. would it suffice if i just remove the mounts?

i am not ready to buy an ecu from the dealer.

thanks

 

Unplug the mounts, they only change for under 1500 rpm or so. I unplugged mine months ago, no bothersome vibration.
I replaced blown up chips in my ecu from shorted idle air control valve. i also had buzz for a year under hood before it happened. Unrelated. My buzz was ABS problem. Don't confuse the two buzzes, don't worry about unplugging mounts.
I fixed ECU, by replacing chip, and replaced my shorted, as measured by my meter, IACV. put up with the ABS buzz. Two days ago ABS light went out, buzz went away. I figure the right rear wheel sensor connector jiggled back in place or something.

Last night engine light came on on highway. It is P0138 code, I turned it off with my laptop, and awaiting a recurrence.
I jumped in here after being away and saw your post., Just review my quick notes above, be glad to help.
In meantime researching my new problem with p0138.

Also I was running hi-test fuel last 3 weeks to compare with regular, which the car lived on since new, while prices are low. So far no difference for my putt putt driving, maybe 2mpg more. Maybe more lead bopped my o2 sensor?
The crowd awaits...

 

so.
this is what i have done.

-removed motor mounts
-replaced icv
-did NOT replace burned chip in ecu

my car started up and idled around 800RPM with no SES light.
since the motor mounts are in no more effect and my car starts fine, i am not sure if i should replace the chips on the ECU. it is only the NEC chip that is burnt.. from the forums, it is the motor mounts

 

You should be ok, since your mounts are unplugged, and the idle chip circuitry was undamaged. I still don't know exactly how the mount failure can ruin the idle circuitry. It must be because the failing mount chip burns up a mutual foil lead to the idle chip.
As I mentioned in my other thread, I was hearing my ABS system unloading due to its own problem and at first thought it was my mounts. My mounts are fine, but I left them unplugged anyway.
My idle chip was blown because of a shorted winding in the IACV only, not the mounts.
The chips are just a simple array of power FETs, not sure if they source or sink power from the mounts/valve.

 

My car is making a strange winding type noise:

1.) When I turn on the power alone
2.) Shift it into Drive
3.) After releasing the gas; I press the brake after pressing the gas at slow speeds, bringing my car to a stop and hearing the noise
4.) After the car is turned off

My check engine light is on, and when I checked it a few weeks ago I got codes for a large vacuum leak and a misfire.

I have since replaced my coils/plugs, but my ABS light has also turned on. A mechanic said my evap vent is bad too. I read somewhere in the beggining of this thread that your car will make a strange noise upon turning off if your motor mounts are on their way out... could this be my problem, or are there other explanations as well?

 

You are new here, so welcome, I am relatively new, and this and nissanhelp forums saved me maybe thousands.

As a return, I want to help others with their car griefs.

There are links to sounds of bad engine mounts, quite good. If you want help, search around, but I am open for private message, better for you to post openly here though. As in most forums, you might get yelled at for not searching first, but hey you need your car.

I have sound of my ABS malfunction when I start my 01 maxima.
It is an obvious buzzing noise when turning the key, but before starting. There is no noise after I turn engine off.

Right now my abs is intermittent, it works most of the time. I am sure from my laptop display, i have a problem with my righ rear wheel sensor.
It is nothing like the sounds I heard posted here of the engine mounts.

I don't know what key I slipped on to make italics, ignore it.
If no one gets back to you or search doesn't help, I am keeping an eye on this forum.

I would unplug if I were you. You could be minutes from blowing a 2k repair item. I unplugged my perfectly good mounts. I was, even with the photos here a little confused, but the bottom line is put your hand on the mount, feel for the wire, then to the plug. They are both small brown connectors.

Wrap them with electrical tape or antenna glop.

 

When the mounts go bad they short out. The ECU tells them to harden after a certain RPM. The mounts are supposed to be on soft while idling so you feel less engine vibration. Whether Idle and mounts are directly connected, I dont know.

 

1. How do they work?

2. Since mine are still good, should I unplug them while they are in hard mode?

 

Directions here on how to unplug when hard:
http://forums.maxima.org/6958867-post16.html

You will need two people or a consultantII. I have no idea if my method worked.

 

Jh15... thank you for the reply. I listened to those sounds in the video and its spot on to what I am experiencing with my car. Are those absolutely the engine mounts?

Is it possible to confuse it with a failing ABS control unit? What about the IAVC? As I said, my ABS light is on at the moment.

Also, if I unplug my engine mounts will the sound stop?

 

The sounds in the video are not the sounds my abs unit makes. I like the video where he is revving the engine, and you can hear his mounts.

My abs light lately goes off for a ride or two, and there is no sound when I turn the key.

When the abs is malfunctioning, I can hear a loud buzz for about 3-5 seconds just by turning the key to on, and not start.

I hear no noise at all when turning the engine off.

Others have complained of mount buzz not long before they destroy the ECU, So I would unplug them. At the moment I am considering unplugging them while engine is above 1500.
The other poster showed how, above. I did not realize it was in my FSM, so I will look there first.

Somewhere on this site (or possibly nissanhelp.com) someone had a video with the ABS sound. It was not a good recording, or at least how it sounded on my laptop.

I will eventually record mine with a good mic to help others.

It also comes from the area of the master cylinder, as that must be the abs area.

Also for information, the check engine light came on twice in this car's life, (owned since new) because of the gas cap not sealing well and setting off an evap code. I took a fingertip of oil off the dipstick and wiped it on the rubber seal of the cap, lasted a couple years each time.

I will be looking for the bad connection to the RR abs sensor before winter comes, and post any gotchas. My scanner told me it was the RR sensor that failed, or I hope, a dirty connector. Also need to do the TSB on the doors locking when raining before that happens to me.
Happy Maximaing..

 

What is the consensus on unplugging the mounts in soft versus hard state? Should I expect the sound to stop after unplugging?

 

I was looking at the FSM and it mentions a 15 amp fuse, I'm guessing one for each mount. Can't this fuse be pulled instead of disconnecting the two connectors? I looked at the engine bay and the fuse box next to the battery has two fuses marked Eng Cont 1 and Eng Cont 2 and they are 15 amp. not sure though if they are the correct ones.

 

Orchard, I would unplug for now, if at least to know you found the right connectors. Even though I had pictures from the forums, I was not sure where the right connectors were.
I remember feeling down the wire of what I thought was the right connector for the rear one and feeling the shape of it. Then I noticed it was the same type of connector, otherwise I might have disconnected the wrong one nearby.

I would look at the photos, pull the front connector off, inspect that it is a small brown plug, and check the wire colors as posted above, then search for the rear one.

Maybe this week I will look into pulling the plug while above 1500 rpm or whatever the spec is. I've been running them for weeks in I guess soft mode as I unplugged while engine was off. I think I'd want them in stiff mode so to keep the engine from tossing around and loosining exaust mounts etc.

Being an electronics engineer, and knowing the chips driving them, I am not worried about unplugging the mount live. But the usual legal disclaimer: your mileage may vary, do at your own risk.

Maxima34, a very good point, let us know, and I will look into my fsm too. Beware many time a fuse says the major item, but may have other things attached.

This would be great for anyone with a new noise, just pull the fuse, now that would really be convenient.

Id like an answer to question one: how do these work? I'm sure I could google, but I'd rather spend time replying to my email and helping here.
FYI speaking of fuses, when I replaced my IACV chip in the ECU, I put a couple pico fuses to the chip in the power feed, left it hanging out in passenger compartment to be sure I didn't underfuse it so far so good.

 

How easy is it to drop the crossmember? Are the bolts easily accessible from under the engine?

Does anyone know if you can purchase motor mounts already inserted in new brackets?

 

I like to chime in on the discussion. About 14 months ago, I first encountered the horrific P0505 code. I ignored the engine mounts, bought a new IACV and a used ECU from a junk yard. I drove the Max to the local dealership with old IACV and ECU still installed. Paid for installation of IACV and ECU, reprogram of keys, and Idle relearn hoping that my problems would be solved.

They weren't. That same day, P0505 popped again. Instead of putting more money into the car, I went ahead and took over a lease for another car(not Nissan). Now that the lease is coming to its end, I decided to try to tackle this problem again.

My next step is to unplug the motor mounts and I'm curious if the fuse procedure would be sufficient. My question is how did you fix the chip in the ECU? I would much rather do that then spend ~400 on a new ECU.

Will let everyone know my progress since I know this is a real issue for a lot of people.

 

Would someone who has had experience please tell me whether or not I should be hearing the infamous sound after unplugging my mounts?

Unplugged the other day, and though the sound is a slightly lower pitch and more subdued, I am still hearing it when turning the power on in my car. Since the tone matches that of my engine more, I can't really tell whether the sound appears when reving the engine a bit.

Does anyone have a link to the sound a failing ABS control makes?

 

Anyone?

 

If you unplugged your engine mounts, then they will not make noise.
If your abs light is on, then like mine did for a year, you hear a quite loud whirr buzz sound everytime you turn the key on, but before starting.