awol, regarding fuses, I misplaced my notes on what I finally installed to protect the IDLE chip, not the mount chip. Since my mounts are still good (but unplugged), I never bothered to protect the mount chips.
I am quite sure I used 3 amp pico fuses, and I needed 2 for the st... chip, the one for IACV. For a couple thousand miles, so far, they held up, and I am about to put the ECU back in place.

At one time I was thinking of keeping my mounts alive since they are still good, but fusing them to protect the ECU.

With winter coming it looks like I will just tape up the connectors for now.

Orchard, did you fix your other problems like the vacuum leak?

Also with multiple sudden problems, I always check all ground points first, though in this thread it is not too likely, except with orchard and his multitude of problems. Just something to think about, not dwell on.

 

Jh15 - My ABS light is on, and I am still hearing a noise; it appears as though unplugging my mounts has changed it a bit. Perhaps I was hearing a noise for my mounts on top of that which is caused by my ABS issue?

I've fixed my misfire as well as the vacuumm leak; I was merely in need of a new cap. I plan to bring it into a shop this week to get a final diagnosis on my mount and ABS issues. I'll be sure to mention my ground points to the mechanic. I just hope the noise I am hearing, after having unplugged my mounts, is not a failing ABS control...

Thanks again for all your help - it is much appreciated.

 

From what I understand, and it is from the forums, I haven't checked the factory manual for info yet, is that when there is any failure in the ABS, it will shut itself down.
I read that the noise is the 'unloading' of the ABS, whatever that is, maybe it is the pump releasing ABS pressure or something.

Last winter in snow, I jammed on the brakes to confirm that my abs was not working, so I would not rely on it.
I rarely drive that car in bad weather, so the ABS wasn't missed.

So in my case, my engine scanner showed a bad right rear wheel sensor, or its connection.
After a year of being on all the time the connection has started to be ok more than not, and the turn on buzz occurs or goes away as does the ABS light.
I would try to see the mechanic scan your codes, and show you. I hear some auto parts places scan for free.
Good luck.

 

I don't get it! what are they used for??? what happens by unplugging them?

 

KASRA: I'll try and answer your question to the best of my knowledge and ability.

Motor mounts, as the name would indicate, provide support for your engine. Nissan has engineered electric motor mounts for Maxima's, which are filled with a 'ferro-fluid,' or metalicized liquid. The electric motor mounts differ from regular mounts in that they are attached to an electrical component that magnetizes the fluid contained within the mounts.

When your engine is at an idle state, the mounts are 'soft' and not magnetized: this allows for more give in the mount system. At high RPM, the electric motor mount system kicks on, magnetizing the fluid and hardening the mounts, providing increased support when your engine is likely to be working hard and potentially vibrating more within the chassis.

When your mounts begin to fail, there is some component that bears potential to short your Electric Computer Unit (ECU) in your car, which proves to be a very expensive repair. In unplugging the mounts, you eliminate the potential for this short to occur until you can address the problem that exists with your failing mounts.

 

I doubt if it is ferrofluid, where did you get this information?

Then again, I can't imagine some tiny hydraulic pumps in there either.
Googling a bit showed some hydraulic and vacuum coupled affairs in Fords, I think.

 

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Nissan-Re...otor-mount.htm

Thats what I read up on, Jh15... let me know if I was misguided

 

Ok Guys...
Fun story, I decided to re-grease my starter, got everything up and running. After I took it for a spin, i hear the fun buzzing noise (the motor mount plug is actually pinched behind the starter, maybe I cut it? not sure)!

So after my diagnosis, I found that i blew the 15amp fuse controlling the Engine Cont.. I read up on this thread and it prompted me to disconnect the Motor Mount Connections. Now There is no more buzzing BUT...When I started my car this morning (almost 32F or 0C) the car started normally (STILL SQUEEKING AFTER RE-GREASING) but the rpms shot up, the dropped drastically. When I tried feeding it gas, it had little/no effect on the rpms. The car then decided to stall and shut off...

I started it right after, and it worked, but still a bit shaky on initial movement.
I read about the Intake Manifold needing changing (i have a 2000) due to them being rubber...that explains the shaking ... but WHY THE STALLING???

Please help guys...still a noob...so n e thing will help, I really don't want to go to the shop...or even worse...the Stealership!!!!

Cheers

 

OK, well I found my problem (i think)! there was a cut wire for one of the Motor Mount connectors! the stupid one that is hidden behind the starter, i reconnected the wiring and all tested well...but just to my luck...i get magical code p0100 (MAF)!!

My engine still enjoys stalling after a morning's cold start...could this new problem be the reason or is there something else i should be looking into?

Cheers...(Responses greatly appreciated!!)

 

So does the high idle in gear method actually firm up the mount? Anyone know for sure? Thanks

 

Depends The poor MAF gets blamed for just about everything ... tell me if you can get your engine to rev much above 2500 rpm when your driving if you can not then yes the MAF may need replacing

 

Well my revving issue is now gone...magically!! Although when i was having the issue, it did rev over 2500rpm no problem, but only after the car was running!

I have a light again, havent hooked up the scanner yet...so i'll see what it gives me this time!

Thanks for the response, cheers

 

Thanks the pics. it helped me with 01 Maxima and motor mount whirring. Mechanic had it unplugged a week ago and showed me where it was but then I noticed sound again when I picked it up today (had to go back in shop since SEL came back on). I looked under hood and mount was plugged in again. Hmmmmmmmmmmm

So I took the air duct thingy (technical term) off to get at the rear motor mount connector. I unplugged the connector (perhaps this is temp sensor) to the air duct. I then started car and shut if off a few times to ensure all was well and no more whirring sound.
I then got a Check Engine Light. Crapola...So I unplugged the battery and will let it sit overnight to clear code for now.
And I had just spent $1400 on 3 new California spec O2 sensors (car has 4) and reprogramming of ECU 2x and a new Mass Air Flow Cleaner. A lot of money I know...

Before I picked up car, at least they got it to pass inspection (North Carolina) while SEL light was off. Mechanic drove the car enough miles for ECU to cycle and pass inspection with no codes. Good for another year.

Guess I will do nothing till next years inspection if light is still on.

****My question is: Could my restarting the engine a few times with rear motor mount unplugged and whatever (temp?) sensor is in the air cleaner duct unplugged cause the sel light to come back on?
Or just coincidence?
I do not care to have the OBDII code pulled from the ECU since it passed inspection.


Thanks
Peter

 

Why would you not care to have the codes pulled if you're concerned about the CEL illuminating? CEL = code. Get code, fix problem, CEL goes away.

 

I've been away from this thread, email notified me. If I can be any help, I have an '01 auto, no traction.

I wonder if you are disconnecting the mass air flow sensor, it is in the intake tunnel of the air cleaner..

 

Hi,

I am new to this forum. New to the Auto industry as well.

I have Maxima 01 SE. My car stalls at idle speed. Got stranded on busy street few times. DTC detected Primary P0505 and P0110 and some secondary valve probs (may be they are all related to IACV). I had P0110 ever since I bought it used one (some 7 months back). The stalling problem (for P0505) started about a week ago.

After reading few of the posts I am scared of thinking that ECU might be burnt. But I don't hear any noise. and unlike others I dont have to press GAS pedal while starting. After a few minutes I can start my car. So I guess it isn't as bad.

My questions
1. Can I drive with just unplugging mounts for couple of days untill I order IACV?
2. After replacing IACV with unplugged mounts, can I just run my car without worrying or I have to get ECU/ECM checked?
3. Is there any way to tell whether ECM/ECU is shorted or burnt?
4. Not sure if I can ask this question here, but I am also new to US and the costs of labor here are pretty high. Any suggestion for a good/cheap mechanic in Denver CO?


Thanks in Advance.

 

I've recently had cause to suspect one of my motor mounts is on the way out. In reviewing the issue, I've come across dozens of posts that raise concern about the ECU being fried. It seems that if either the motor mounts or IACV fail, then the ECU can get toasted.

Given how common posts are, then I have to believe that these are not uncommon failures. As such, and given that the ECU isn't cheap, has anyone thought of isolating the corresponding outputs from the ECU to protect it from failure of these components?

It should be easy. The IACV has 4 coils, so could be effectively isolated using 4 FETS. I don't know the configuration of the motor mounts but, for the sake of argument, let's say that another 4 FETS would drive both mounts.

So, for the price of 8 mid-power FETs, on a piece of Vero board, together with a regulator, smoothing capacitor and a box to put them in, (about $20 of parts), one could completely protect the ECU from being burned out by these components.

Thoughts?

 

i recently just want to fully replace my electronic mounts with manual ones and tape up the connectors but im unsure of how bad the vibration will be. anyone got experience on this?

heres the new thread i created about this process.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...al-mounts.html

let me know what you guys think!

 

I'm not sure what is the purpose of you crosslinking different threads you've created about the same subject, but, did you ever disconnect your mounts to find out by yourself? Vibration feel and tolerance to it is a matter of personal opinion; some people can live with certain degree of vibration while that same vibration can make others nuts.

 

yea i unlgged bad mounts that probably have some play in them. what iu wanted to do next was fully replace them with manual mounts with ES bushing inserts in them. i figure it would probably make the stuff in the engine bay stiffer, which in turn would cause some vibrations. but to what extant ?

because right now the unplugged mounts have worked pretty decent but my electric mounts are bad regardless and have some play in them...and the engine bay kinda just feels sloppy, when changing gears from drive to reverse and vice verse.

so prety much, i just want it to feel solid like when i first bought the car. but if it has a small vibration increase added to it, i could deal with that.

like i dont want to feel like im in a 1996 civic hatchback tuner car or something. lol.

car doesnt vib much with the mounts unplugged right now as it is. but im sure thats because the rubber in the mounts are probably warn and saggy so it sorta helps until i change a gear and i hear (and feel) my cars engine bay jump forward or backward.

 

I looked under the car and my rear wires are fried...like bare..but the car still runs smooth...should i unplug it?

 

Slipping transmission, and mounts frying ECUs? Nissan really dropped the ball on the 5th gens.

 

what are you talking about??? 01 gle with 190K+ miles here on auto trans! Its not Nissan's fault if regular maintenance is not kept upto date and yo udog your ride like you stole it!!

 

Ok, I have located the brown connectors in order to disconnect the electric mounts.

http://forums.maxima.org/6958867-post16.html

What is the trick to disconnect these brown connectors?

I have tried and they seem like they just do not want to decouple.

 

THIS FIX WORKED FOR ME!!!!

 

THANKS FOR THE PICS!

 

flat head screwdriver and brake em off.

 

My car makes the buzzing sound after turning it off. I disconnected the mounts, and it still made the sound.

Also, after I picked up a positive battery terminal, and I was replacing it (right after turning car off), and while the battery was disconnected, I heard the noise again.

My guess, its either the ABS unloading pressure, or the fuel tank or vapor system doing same.

 

I have (had) intermittent abs sensor on a rear wheel (I forgot which) showed up in the data from my ECU analyzer I built.

When it was acting up, I would always hear a buzzing at key on. If it wasn't acting up at start, and it later would act up while driving, I'd hear the buzz, then the abs light would be on again.

When replacing my muffler a couple weeks ago, while right rear wheel was off, I tried to remove the sensor to examine it, but the bolt was too tight and started rounding.

So I just cleaned the cable connector there with Caig contact cleaner.

Since then no light and no buzz for a couple weeks. Not sure if that was the rear sensor or not that is somewhere recorded in an old laptop.

if you are hearing the buzz with no abs light, then I'd imagine it could be the mounts. As I said, mine are believed good before unplugging, so I have never heard an official mount noise.

A year and a half ago I disconnected the mounts which I believe were good anyway, but left them off, as I never noticed any extra vibration.

I didn't want them failing later and blowing up my ECU.

The ECU had been blown up by a shorted stepper motor in the Idle Air Control Valve.

I had to replace the stepper driver I.C. chip.

Hope any of this info helps.

 

Do anyone of you know for sure that unplugging the sensor connections from the front motor mount would make the mount Stiffer ? I men if no power/no sensor then mount becomes stiffer or softer ? I gues by good desgin it should be stiffer. i need to replace mine but till then i dont want make any impact on ECU or anyother electrcial components which can interfare with this sensor..ideas/answers greatly appreciated.

ooops..entered in wrong gen..i have 2004 maxima se..but i think the question is generic to electrical motor mounts so gen should not matter..

 

Would someone please be kind enough to email me regarding some motor mount issues? It is somewhat of a pressing issue for me, and would be much appreciated.

Essentially, I am looking to replace my electric motor mounts in a 2001 Maxima with manual mounts. I need to know:


1.) Which inserts I need. I've gone on energysuspension.com but it isn't exactly clear to me if they have what I need.

2.) Whether I need to purchase manual cross member brackets for the mount inserts, or if they will fit in the OEM electric mount brackets.


Links, part numbers, etc. would be incredibly helpful. I really have to get this done over the next two weeks and I am trying at all costs to avoid electric mount replacements and the ridiculous dealer costs that accompany them. I'm afraid I'll order the wrong parts or miss something unless I have some good insight from one of you kind folks.

idealtypical [at] gmail [dot] com

 

I am going thru this now....... 1... bought the ES mounts for manual tranny. 2.. Buy, either here or somewhere else manual tranny motor mounts, front and rear. The auto mounts are too large. I was misled by the ES site. They say they will fit, they just don't tell you you need the manual mount brackets. The crossmember is the same

 

Anyone? Please see my post above.

 

Didn't the post #112, right above yours, answer your questions?

 

Your post was helpful, but I still need some links to verify which parts I need.

Is this what I need for front and rear mounts? http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.1114
- Is there any difference between front and firewall side mounts?

I'm also not quite sure where I would purchase the brackets themselves.
- What am I looking at for price? Would it be cheaper in the end to go with electric mounts with consideration of the fact that I will have to purchase brackets separately?

 

One more bump--your help would be MUCH appreciated.

 

trash does electronic MM's and do the ES MM Mod

 

That's what I fully intend on doing--can you direct me to the parts that I need? Inserts and manual brackets

 

front/rear Manual mounts (junk yard) 95-2003, burn them out or press them out! If you burn then out don't forget the outer shell. Cut the ES mounts in half and install!
Simple install tremendous results!!!!!

 

CMax... I'm not sure I am understanding you fully.

Do you know of a website that sells the motor mount inserts online? Can you link me? What is this about cutting the mount in half?--This is the first that I have heard of that being necessary to install them.

Do you know of a site that sells the manual brackets, or am I going to need to buy them from a junkyard?


Thank you for your help