P0300 misfire code. All the usual suspects check out OK...
#1
P0300 misfire code. All the usual suspects check out OK...
I was trying to refrain from posting for as long as I could, but after trying the typical solutions, this problem is baffling and frustrating me. Alright, let me give you a little history on my car. I put headers on my car, and didn't install an O2 sim for a while (just recently installed one). There was no rush for me in putting in an O2 sim because I figured it wouldn't do any harm other than an annoying SES light. Whether it's related or not, I don't know, but now I have P0300 code, which is a random misfire. I replaced all the plugs with NGK platinums and gapped them correctly at .44" I tested all of my coils, and they all seemed to test strong (I'll post the results soon). I tested all the fuel injectors and they all tested between 13.5 and 17.5 OHMs. I tested for a vacuum leak, and the reading is 19HG at idle, which is normal. I also have a new 5th gen MAF in there with the IAT sensor from my old MAF.
Symptoms:
Next to try will be the knock sensor, I suppose. Anybody else have any other ideas?
Symptoms:
- P0300 SES light
- Poor performance (slower than normal)
- Rough idle
- Outstanding gas mileage (32 highway MPG)
Next to try will be the knock sensor, I suppose. Anybody else have any other ideas?
Last edited by wyche89; 03-23-2009 at 04:59 PM.
#3
Oh I'm not the only one? lol.. thats cool.. i can't wait to fix this problem man, cause i'm running like high 14s at the track and i REALLY shouldn't be.. do you have the same symptoms as i do?
#5
oh, i'm not complaining about the gas mileage.. lol.. i'm complaining about the poor performance.. i threw the gas mileage in there as an extra clue to help figure out this problem.. now how would i go about testing to see which, if any cylinders are not firing?
Last edited by wyche89; 03-23-2009 at 09:32 PM.
#6
I would have used Iridium plugs in lieu of plats. Did the misfire code take place after your "tune-up" or after the headers were installed? I get the infamous PO300 from time to time. I've got headers, intake, exhaust, etc.
As far as the rough idle, did you adjust your AFR upon installing headers? If not, you might want to tune that beast as you are probably running rich. Also, did you do the idle relearning procedure properly?
As far as the rough idle, did you adjust your AFR upon installing headers? If not, you might want to tune that beast as you are probably running rich. Also, did you do the idle relearning procedure properly?
#7
I would have used Iridium plugs in lieu of plats. Did the misfire code take place after your "tune-up" or after the headers were installed? I get the infamous PO300 from time to time. I've got headers, intake, exhaust, etc.
As far as the rough idle, did you adjust your AFR upon installing headers? If not, you might want to tune that beast as you are probably running rich. Also, did you do the idle relearning procedure properly?
As far as the rough idle, did you adjust your AFR upon installing headers? If not, you might want to tune that beast as you are probably running rich. Also, did you do the idle relearning procedure properly?
#8
I had the same problem, changed my plugs, and coils and neither helped me. Then I bought Aaron's phenolic spacers. The problem went away. i think I had a pinhole leak in the crappy rubber coated gasket between the plenums, or the elbow and the plenum. Either way there must have been a pinhole leak and switching to the phenolic spacers with the RTV sealant finally worked. I'm not saying it was because of the spacers. It was the crappy gasket which was replaced.
#9
I had the same problem, changed my plugs, and coils and neither helped me. Then I bought Aaron's phenolic spacers. The problem went away. i think I had a pinhole leak in the crappy rubber coated gasket between the plenums, or the elbow and the plenum. Either way there must have been a pinhole leak and switching to the phenolic spacers with the RTV sealant finally worked. I'm not saying it was because of the spacers. It was the crappy gasket which was replaced.
wyche, I have the light and the gas mileage. When going to the NWP meet back in Sept., I averaged 31-32 mpg, but didn't think much of it though.
Performance, I haven't noticed a difference in, and the idle seems to be fine, but I have the ES motor mounts, so there is always a bit of vibration in the car when stopped.
I made a thread a while back, but the IM theory could be possible since I had an SSIM done. I did OEM sparks like you, OEM coils, and even then, I'd imagine it could narrow it down to a cylinder. The random misfire thing makes me believe its something before reaching that far creating a hiccup.
#10
I had the same problem, changed my plugs, and coils and neither helped me. Then I bought Aaron's phenolic spacers. The problem went away. i think I had a pinhole leak in the crappy rubber coated gasket between the plenums, or the elbow and the plenum. Either way there must have been a pinhole leak and switching to the phenolic spacers with the RTV sealant finally worked. I'm not saying it was because of the spacers. It was the crappy gasket which was replaced.
#13
It sound like you may have a leak at the LIM or UIM. This would cause a poorly running condition.
The PO 300 is a random multiple cylinder misfire. As weird as it may seem, I get this same code from time to time and have 0 driveability issues. You may have two different problems.
Reseal your intakes with Aaron's spacers and you should fix the 1st problem.
The PO 300 is a random multiple cylinder misfire. As weird as it may seem, I get this same code from time to time and have 0 driveability issues. You may have two different problems.
Reseal your intakes with Aaron's spacers and you should fix the 1st problem.
#16
I have not. I was contemplating having them done by http://www.deatschwerks.com
#17
I have not. I was contemplating having them done by http://www.deatschwerks.com
#18
Ok, I tested the knock sensor, and it tested at .561 and .567 OHMs when I switched the positive and negative rods between the 2 pins on the knock sensor. So how high is the voltage supposed to be? The haynes manual says it's supposed to just measure continuity, but make sure the OHM meter is capable of measuring at least 10 OHMs because it's supposed to measure high. What's the voltage on a normal knock sensor, and could this be causing my misfire code and poor performance?
#21
A KS wont typically throw a light unless its signal or power supply is missing. Any incorrect values it sees, it will interpet as a misfire or knock and tell the ECM to retard timing. Just a side note, if your getting 29-30ish MPG your motor is probally not misfiring, MPG would go down because of wasted (unburt)fuel in the combustion chamber being blown out the exhaust.
#22
A KS wont typically throw a light unless its signal or power supply is missing. Any incorrect values it sees, it will interpet as a misfire or knock and tell the ECM to retard timing. Just a side note, if your getting 29-30ish MPG your motor is probally not misfiring, MPG would go down because of wasted (unburt)fuel in the combustion chamber being blown out the exhaust.
#23
thanx for the tip.. i did some searching in the 4th gen forums, and i saw that one guy tested his knock sensor, and it tested fine at 14OHMs.. so maybe mine is too weak? i dont know.. does anybody else know how many OHMs the knock sensor is supposed to read?
#24
I completely forgot about my timing!!!
I used to have the AutoEnginuity setup w/ Nissan Interface and advanced my own timing. Before this issue, my base timing was 15degrees, which I upped +2 to 17degrees.
I remember trying to do it again, after many months while the misfire was prominent, and it was at a default of 13degrees, which from I could only advance to 15 as a max.
I'm not sure if this is directly related, but I figured it might help in the search.
I used to have the AutoEnginuity setup w/ Nissan Interface and advanced my own timing. Before this issue, my base timing was 15degrees, which I upped +2 to 17degrees.
I remember trying to do it again, after many months while the misfire was prominent, and it was at a default of 13degrees, which from I could only advance to 15 as a max.
I'm not sure if this is directly related, but I figured it might help in the search.
#25
i doubt if a timing advance would have anything to do with it... i got my timing advanced (after the first one was erased) after many months of this misfire, and the guy was able to adjust it to 17* i want this crap fixed man, i'm tired of my car being slow! lol.. my boy has an extra knock sensor i'm gonna try today.. keep your fingers crossed for me fellas
#27
Disconnect KS wiring harness
Check resistance between terminal 2 on KS and ground for 500-620kohm
This is the quote from the 4gen forum. Unfortunately, i can't tell if it's the valid resistance for 5 gen too.
You can temporarily replace KS with simulator (a resistor with corresponding value) to see how this affects the performance. If hard pinging occurs, it means your KS just doing its job (loss of power feels).
#28
i doubt if a timing advance would have anything to do with it... i got my timing advanced (after the first one was erased) after many months of this misfire, and the guy was able to adjust it to 17* i want this crap fixed man, i'm tired of my car being slow! lol.. my boy has an extra knock sensor i'm gonna try today.. keep your fingers crossed for me fellas
I was mentioning my timing change from default 15 to default 13. Based on what SixSpeedA33 said, the KS would retard the timing...
#29
ok, i tested my boy's knock sensor and it reads .567 ohms.. with the leads switched back and forth on both of the pins.. that still seems low though, but i don't know what it's supposed to be.. the haynes manual says above 10 m ohms, one guy on here says his tested good at 14, another post says 500-600 kohms, which i'm assuming would be .5-.6 ohms, and would make mine good... confused... i need to go to a nissan dealer to see if i can test a brand new one
anybody with a functioning knock sensor wanna be kind enough to measure the ohms on theirs for me? lol
anybody with a functioning knock sensor wanna be kind enough to measure the ohms on theirs for me? lol
#30
try a knock sensor and see what you come up with
#31
hey man, i think i figured it out.. it was the knock sensor.. i replaced it with a used knock sensor and i got my top end power back, and the misfire code is gone.. howvever i still have a rough idle.. it might be my IAT sensor code thats causing that though
try a knock sensor and see what you come up with
try a knock sensor and see what you come up with
Edit: just reread your first post. If you can invest in the AM600 03 MAF.
Last edited by zero2sixtyZ; 04-16-2009 at 05:21 AM.
#32
I did the idle relearn thing more than once.. i doubt it'll help. I've still got the p0300
#35
a brand new knock sensor is a little over $100.. and not hard to install.. it's kind of a tight squeeze between the 2 banks of the IM, but you can access it from the drivers side of the vehicle.. if you have a stock intake, you'll probably need to take that out though.. once you get around the intake, you can fit a ratchet and a 12mm deep socket in there to get it out.. and BE CAREFUL cause there are some sharp edges in there man!! my hand got cut up a little bit
as far as MAF, i aint payin $400 for a brand new one.. lol.. i'll either buy just the IAT sensor online, or find a cheap 5.5 gen MAF on ebay or a junk yard
Last edited by wyche89; 04-16-2009 at 03:47 PM.
#36
Had the same issue with P0300 code now for almost 3 weeks...I took it to a local mechanic and they first told that i needed new spark plugs so i got those changed and problem went away only for a couple of days...Issue came back with same code..>Then, day before yesterday, bought all new ignition coils and replaced them all..>Cleared the codes and been driving now for a whole day now without that code coming back. Hope thats solved but since i changed the ignition coils i now have a P0335 Crankshaft Position A Circuit Malfunction....WTF!!! Could those two be related or just coincedence that once came after the other...I got the recall done back in 2004 for that same sensor..Does anyone have any similar or know of any info on this