Check engine light on = gas cap loose or massive leak HELP car smells like gas
#1
Check engine light on = gas cap loose or massive leak HELP car smells like gas
My check engine light came on again today, I took it to Adv Auto and their diagnostic said it was a loose gas cap or a massive leak of some sort, i forget the specific wording. The car smells pretty strongly of gas in the interior which coincided with the check engine light. I tightened the gas cap and had him reset the code. We checked under the hood and there was nothing obviously wrong and I couldnt pick up the scent of gas.
The light came back on a few miles down the road on the highway. And I was expecting my car to straight up explode.
This engine code has come on before and been fickle but the car never smelled like gas.
I just put on a new tire today and it was in my back seat for about 48 hours, but i dont think that caused the smell.
Any ideas? Thank you
The light came back on a few miles down the road on the highway. And I was expecting my car to straight up explode.
This engine code has come on before and been fickle but the car never smelled like gas.
I just put on a new tire today and it was in my back seat for about 48 hours, but i dont think that caused the smell.
Any ideas? Thank you
#2
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Things You’ll Need:
Relieve the fuel system pressure by first removing the fuel pump fuse. (bottom row 4th from right)Then, start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank the engine for 2 to 3 seconds to release the fuel pressure. Turn the ignition off.
Step2
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the rear seat bottom and the inspection hole cover. Disconnect the electrical and quick connectors and remove the six screws. Remove the fuel level sensor unit and the fuel pump assembly. Then, take out the flange and snap fit portion of the fuel pump.
Step3
Remove the fuel tank temperature sensor harness, the fuel level sensor flange, and the fuel pump connector. Disconnect the quick connectors from the fuel level sensor, and remove the fuel level sensor from the chamber. Take out the fuel filter.
Step4
Put the new fuel filter in the chamber, followed by the fuel level sensor. Attach the quick connectors to the fuel sensor. Connect the fuel pump connector and put the fuel level sensor flange and fuel tank temperature sensor harness back.
Step5
Place the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. Replace the screws and electrical connectors. Reattach the quick connectors. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Step6
Start your Nissan Maxima and check for leaks, and make repairs if necessary. When repairs are complete, replace the inspection hole cover and the rear seat bottom.
Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Things You’ll Need:
- New fuel filter
Relieve the fuel system pressure by first removing the fuel pump fuse. (bottom row 4th from right)Then, start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank the engine for 2 to 3 seconds to release the fuel pressure. Turn the ignition off.
Step2
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the rear seat bottom and the inspection hole cover. Disconnect the electrical and quick connectors and remove the six screws. Remove the fuel level sensor unit and the fuel pump assembly. Then, take out the flange and snap fit portion of the fuel pump.
Step3
Remove the fuel tank temperature sensor harness, the fuel level sensor flange, and the fuel pump connector. Disconnect the quick connectors from the fuel level sensor, and remove the fuel level sensor from the chamber. Take out the fuel filter.
Step4
Put the new fuel filter in the chamber, followed by the fuel level sensor. Attach the quick connectors to the fuel sensor. Connect the fuel pump connector and put the fuel level sensor flange and fuel tank temperature sensor harness back.
Step5
Place the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. Replace the screws and electrical connectors. Reattach the quick connectors. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Step6
Start your Nissan Maxima and check for leaks, and make repairs if necessary. When repairs are complete, replace the inspection hole cover and the rear seat bottom.
#3
Wow, thanks for the quick diagnosis phxgold. Have you encountered this problem before? Is there a chance that the fuel filter could have been upset when the mechanic replaced my back left tire by the fuel tank? The trunk seems to smell most strongly of the odor. Is the fuel filter leaking into my car? How urgent is it that i fix this problem? Does anyone else agree that this is the problem? Id hate to begin this process unnecessarily.
#4
I had the same smell no cel tho I repleced the filter now I can smoke in my car again ;0D
look at it this way of it fixes it great if it doesnt you will get better milage and a smoother ride once the problem is found.
the filter only costs 20 bucks so its money well spent even if its not the culprit.
you may find that a connection at the fuel filter is loose or any number of things but first you need to get back there.
the cel is the same as leaving your gas cap off or loose you not getting a good seal. could be a gasket at the tank filter of the filter or a fuel line itself at the filter.
just be sure when you remove it you have a bowl and some rags handy so you dont dump gas in your car.
look at it this way of it fixes it great if it doesnt you will get better milage and a smoother ride once the problem is found.
the filter only costs 20 bucks so its money well spent even if its not the culprit.
you may find that a connection at the fuel filter is loose or any number of things but first you need to get back there.
the cel is the same as leaving your gas cap off or loose you not getting a good seal. could be a gasket at the tank filter of the filter or a fuel line itself at the filter.
just be sure when you remove it you have a bowl and some rags handy so you dont dump gas in your car.
Last edited by phxgold; 03-31-2009 at 02:13 PM.
#5
I just contacted a nissan parts dealership and they said that i dothe 03 maxima does not have a seperate fuel filter strainer, and that its built into the fuel pump. He went on to suggest that i dont need a new pump because my car is mechanically running fine. He suggested either a damaged fuel line, or that i need a new gas cap. My gas cap has good threads and the rubber gasket on it looks fresh.
????
????
#6
http://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.html
http://market.autopartsfair.com/sear...0&part_id=2351
the dealer is doing what dealers do. they will say its a fuel cap. then that wont work then they will say its a fuel pump and charge you 500 bucks to change this 20 dollar "lifetime part"
http://market.autopartsfair.com/sear...0&part_id=2351
the dealer is doing what dealers do. they will say its a fuel cap. then that wont work then they will say its a fuel pump and charge you 500 bucks to change this 20 dollar "lifetime part"
#8
OH MY GOD
get a new gas cap, install, and reset the code
In all my time here I have NEVER heard of someone actually having to do anything other than this. Not to say it's hasn't happened, but this has been it 100% of the times I have seen a thread of this nature come up
get a new gas cap, install, and reset the code
In all my time here I have NEVER heard of someone actually having to do anything other than this. Not to say it's hasn't happened, but this has been it 100% of the times I have seen a thread of this nature come up
#9
gas cap has a valve inside that could be damaged. There are ways to find it out described in the Haynes manual (maybe in Chilton, too). Also, you can replace the cap with universal one (AutoZone $3-5 if I recall correctly) and see what happens...
#12
i am having this same problem right now and just found that my charcoal canister is full of gas. im getting code p0807 which is the solenoid not opening to release the vapor. i am still in the process of diagnosing though
#13
Well to bring this thread full circle for myself... I ended up buying a new evap can and solenoid online and spent $250 at www.everythingnissanparts.com. The diagnosis was similar in that what i needed was the new valve/solenoid because it was stuck open. However my code was p0445 and the mechanics who ran the smoke test said nothing about a canister full of gas. The real problem with this whole thing is that the solenoid is generally frozen to the tank so you need to replace both at the same time.
You can look up code p0445 and there was another thread pretty recently where i did a quick how-to for replacing the canister and valve yourself. It only takes about 30 to 1 hour.
goodluck
You can look up code p0445 and there was another thread pretty recently where i did a quick how-to for replacing the canister and valve yourself. It only takes about 30 to 1 hour.
goodluck
#14
5th gen maxima (2001)
check engine light is on due to the vapor canister.
i notice other people on here have the canister problem also.
i was wondering what does the vapor canister and purge valve actually do???
another problem with the car is that when starting 90% of the time it takes 5-10 seconds to actually start and when it starts it acts like its missing and about 5 seconds after that the car idles great with no other problems. i was wondering if the canister/purge valve would have anything to do with this.
i notice other people on here have the canister problem also.
i was wondering what does the vapor canister and purge valve actually do???
another problem with the car is that when starting 90% of the time it takes 5-10 seconds to actually start and when it starts it acts like its missing and about 5 seconds after that the car idles great with no other problems. i was wondering if the canister/purge valve would have anything to do with this.
#15
Buy a new gas cap first! Turns out my gas cap as faulty and i spent all that money replacing my evap for nothing. This is usually the problem.
Your starting issues are independent from the gas code, ill be the first to say it as you are new... the search is your best friend so look up starting problems
for that topic
Your starting issues are independent from the gas code, ill be the first to say it as you are new... the search is your best friend so look up starting problems
for that topic
#17
Well that would be the easiest place to start, and if you have had a habit when filling the car and rounding up the pump to the nearest dollar when doing a complete fill you may have caused some spillage to overflow. This is the most common error that cause the evap canister to need replacing .... "Never Round Up at the pump" when it stops that's it pay the attendant. The dealer will always say that there is no 03 fuel strainer maintenance as it is a life time part and is not part of any normal service schedule ... but the part is available don't forget to pickup the O ring as well should go and replace your strainer.
#18
These parts are part of a safety feature that sucks the fumes out of the gas tank and creates a vacuum in the tank. If you slowly open the gas cap after driving the car, you will hear a hissing sound as air rushes into the tank.
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