Long Term Ownership Assesment
04-01-2009, 09:09 PM
#1
Long Term Ownership Assesment
Alright, what I am seeking to achieve in this thread is the creation of a list that details when we can expect to replace over the course of ownership. This comes on the cusp of a bevy of threads asking what should be examined / replaced when a car is purchased / mileage +xx,xxx, etc...
So, I am asking members to list what they have expected to replace of the course of ownership! This is by no means a standard MUST DO list, nor does this hold any degree of statistical validity. I am simply making this list as a quick reference for those whom are looking what they should look to keep in check over time. The following post will be updated as information is generated. If you feel as though some things should be changed, HAVE AT IT. The purpose of this thread is to generate a quick list, NOT to make this a flame war.
This list is not to include normally wearable items such as fluids, spark plugs, belts, brakes, etc.
So with much adieu...please let me know what you've had to replace over time, and tell us your story!
So, I am asking members to list what they have expected to replace of the course of ownership! This is by no means a standard MUST DO list, nor does this hold any degree of statistical validity. I am simply making this list as a quick reference for those whom are looking what they should look to keep in check over time. The following post will be updated as information is generated. If you feel as though some things should be changed, HAVE AT IT. The purpose of this thread is to generate a quick list, NOT to make this a flame war.
This list is not to include normally wearable items such as fluids, spark plugs, belts, brakes, etc.
So with much adieu...please let me know what you've had to replace over time, and tell us your story!
04-01-2009, 09:09 PM
#2
ENGINE
Starter after 100k - 150k ($150)
Alternator after 140k ($200)
EXHAUST
All components from the headers on after 100k if in heavily salted areas (+$400)
02 Sensor(s) after 60k ($80 per)
SUSPENSION / BRAKES
ABS Sensor One or more after 80k ($160)
Lower Ball Joint(s) after 100k ($60 per)
ELECTRICAL
MAF after 125k ($n/a)
Starter after 100k - 150k ($150)
Alternator after 140k ($200)
EXHAUST
All components from the headers on after 100k if in heavily salted areas (+$400)
02 Sensor(s) after 60k ($80 per)
SUSPENSION / BRAKES
ABS Sensor One or more after 80k ($160)
Lower Ball Joint(s) after 100k ($60 per)
ELECTRICAL
MAF after 125k ($n/a)
Last edited by Metal Maxima; 04-01-2009 at 09:19 PM.
04-01-2009, 09:13 PM
#3
ENGINE
Starter after 150k ($150)
Alternator after 140k ($200)
EXHAUST
Replaced with aftermarket, but nothing was rusted through at 110k
SUSPENSION / BRAKEs
No balljoints/bearings ever went bad in my car
ELECTRICAL
MAF at 125k
I manually shifted my automatic tranny alot, downshifts and upshifts, never had any problems when I sold it at 150k.
Starter after 150k ($150)
Alternator after 140k ($200)
EXHAUST
Replaced with aftermarket, but nothing was rusted through at 110k
SUSPENSION / BRAKEs
No balljoints/bearings ever went bad in my car
ELECTRICAL
MAF at 125k
I manually shifted my automatic tranny alot, downshifts and upshifts, never had any problems when I sold it at 150k.
04-01-2009, 10:27 PM
#5
2000 GLE Automatic, Purchased with 78,000 Mi. in 2007, Currently has 92,000 Mi. Only Mod: K&N Filter
Engine
Alternator at 81,000
Purchased with gray dot coils in place, replaced with pink dot coils at 84,000
Exhaust
Still solid after 8 salty winters, but had to replace all 3 Oxygen sensors between 78,000 and 85,000 Mi.
Interior
3 Climate Control Bulbs at 78,000 Mi.
Engine
Alternator at 81,000
Purchased with gray dot coils in place, replaced with pink dot coils at 84,000
Exhaust
Still solid after 8 salty winters, but had to replace all 3 Oxygen sensors between 78,000 and 85,000 Mi.
Interior
3 Climate Control Bulbs at 78,000 Mi.
04-01-2009, 10:45 PM
#6
ahhh! cliMAX!
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 792
I have ~73k miles on a 2000 maxima and I had to replace:
DRIVETRAIN
BOTH cv boots.
I replaced one, and about a half yr later the other one went
Tie Rods... replaced one and will probably replace the other sometime in the near future
EXHAUST
I needed to get an exhaust hanger welded
External Air Filter (CAI) + Cabin Air Filter [i guess these should be considered wearable items]
Thats it so far *crosses fingers as I just finished replacing my 2nd CV BOOT!!!!
DRIVETRAIN
BOTH cv boots.
I replaced one, and about a half yr later the other one went
Tie Rods... replaced one and will probably replace the other sometime in the near future
EXHAUST
I needed to get an exhaust hanger welded
External Air Filter (CAI) + Cabin Air Filter [i guess these should be considered wearable items]
Thats it so far *crosses fingers as I just finished replacing my 2nd CV BOOT!!!!
04-02-2009, 11:33 AM
#7
2001 GLE Auto: Jacksonville, FL. I bought the car in middle of 06 with 118K currently at 173400 and running fine!
Engine:
Rear VC gasket - 165K ($25 for the seals)
Alternator replaced by previous owner: 42K (Warranty)
Suspension:
Upgrade to H&R + Illuminas - 138K ($600)
Both Inner and outer Tie rods L&R - 153K ($200)
Both LCA's - 153K ($200)
Exhaust:
No issues
Emissions:
I probably have a bad cat P0430, did the spark plug non-fouler trick and never seen the Check Engine light again: 146K ($3)
Electrical:
No issues.
Trans:
No issues.
Engine:
Rear VC gasket - 165K ($25 for the seals)
Alternator replaced by previous owner: 42K (Warranty)
Suspension:
Upgrade to H&R + Illuminas - 138K ($600)
Both Inner and outer Tie rods L&R - 153K ($200)
Both LCA's - 153K ($200)
Exhaust:
No issues
Emissions:
I probably have a bad cat P0430, did the spark plug non-fouler trick and never seen the Check Engine light again: 146K ($3)
Electrical:
No issues.
Trans:
No issues.
04-02-2009, 11:54 AM
#8
If you have an 02-03, replacing the rear valve cover is a MUST. Very common for these to crack, mine was replaced at 100,000km.
Evap canister and vent valve, tend to go bad around 100,000km.
Fuel filter will be replaced at 160,000km, Nissan says it'll last the life of the car but that's a load of crap.
Front sway bar bushings tend to crack over time, replaced mine with ES poly.
That's all I can think of really quick, I'll post more as I remember it. Note I'm from Canada so everything I posted is in kilometres, you can convert it to miles if you want.
Evap canister and vent valve, tend to go bad around 100,000km.
Fuel filter will be replaced at 160,000km, Nissan says it'll last the life of the car but that's a load of crap.
Front sway bar bushings tend to crack over time, replaced mine with ES poly.
That's all I can think of really quick, I'll post more as I remember it. Note I'm from Canada so everything I posted is in kilometres, you can convert it to miles if you want.
04-02-2009, 02:05 PM
#9
ENGINE
Starter after 150k ($199) right the day I was going on a cruise
Alternator after 120k ($185)
EXHAUST
None
SUSPENSION / BRAKEs
Sway bar and end links - wow they were worn out
LCA bushings in the next month.
Drop on Maxspeeds and illuminas... just because $125 and $400 at 67K miles
Powerslots discs at 29k with HPS
Balljoints - next week - 168K dont know how much my mech is going to charge
Bearings - next week - 168k dont know how much my mech is going to charge
ELECTRICAL
MAF at 85k - just because.. no need to replace
Tranny:
Slip problem, next week will be tested.
This car works great and haven't giving me major issues so far
Starter after 150k ($199) right the day I was going on a cruise
Alternator after 120k ($185)
EXHAUST
None
SUSPENSION / BRAKEs
Sway bar and end links - wow they were worn out
LCA bushings in the next month.
Drop on Maxspeeds and illuminas... just because $125 and $400 at 67K miles
Powerslots discs at 29k with HPS
Balljoints - next week - 168K dont know how much my mech is going to charge
Bearings - next week - 168k dont know how much my mech is going to charge
ELECTRICAL
MAF at 85k - just because.. no need to replace
Tranny:
Slip problem, next week will be tested.
This car works great and haven't giving me major issues so far
04-02-2009, 03:38 PM
#10
2003 SE 6 speed 73000 miles
ENGINE
Nothing
EXHAUST
Replaced b pipe and muffler. Rusted out couple of months ago
SUSPENSION/BRAKES
Replacing drivers rear caliper due to it being stuck and also replacing both rear rotors and pads tomorrow
TRANNY
nothing
ELECTRICAL
nothing
Everything has been pretty solid
ENGINE
Nothing
EXHAUST
Replaced b pipe and muffler. Rusted out couple of months ago
SUSPENSION/BRAKES
Replacing drivers rear caliper due to it being stuck and also replacing both rear rotors and pads tomorrow
TRANNY
nothing
ELECTRICAL
nothing
Everything has been pretty solid
04-02-2009, 03:58 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
2001- 89k miles
ENGINE
None
TRANNY
None
ELECTRICAL
None
SUSPENSION
Found out shocks were blown AFTER install Eibachs. Installed all new at 55k.
BRAKES
Wear and tear items, i.e. brake pads replaced at 85k.
Never had go wrong with her (knock on wood). I have that annoying 2-3 slip when it's cold, but not really a issue.
ENGINE
None
TRANNY
None
ELECTRICAL
None
SUSPENSION
Found out shocks were blown AFTER install Eibachs. Installed all new at 55k.
BRAKES
Wear and tear items, i.e. brake pads replaced at 85k.
Never had go wrong with her (knock on wood). I have that annoying 2-3 slip when it's cold, but not really a issue.
04-02-2009, 05:16 PM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 26
2000 SE with 129K
Engine
Alternator @ 108K
Airconditioner (Bad bearing) @ 103K
Water Pump @ 128K
NEVER have lost/burnered any oil
Exhaust
Rear Muffler (Broken Flange) @ 82K Mieneke
Rear Muffler Replace Mieneke unit for broken welds, adn mid pipe (between cat and muffler @ 128K
Brakes
New Front Rotors (Severe Judder) @ 40K
New Rear Rotors (Moderate Judder) @ 57K
New Front Rotors (Severe Judder) @ 128K
Replaced Driver SIde Emergency brake Cable (Frozen, replaced overtemped rotor) @ 114K
Replaced Pass Side Emeregency Brake Cable (Frozen, replaced overtemped rotor) @ 128K
Alternator @ 108K
Airconditioner (Bad bearing) @ 103K
Water Pump @ 128K
NEVER have lost/burnered any oil
Exhaust
Rear Muffler (Broken Flange) @ 82K Mieneke
Rear Muffler Replace Mieneke unit for broken welds, adn mid pipe (between cat and muffler @ 128K
Brakes
New Front Rotors (Severe Judder) @ 40K
New Rear Rotors (Moderate Judder) @ 57K
New Front Rotors (Severe Judder) @ 128K
Replaced Driver SIde Emergency brake Cable (Frozen, replaced overtemped rotor) @ 114K
Replaced Pass Side Emeregency Brake Cable (Frozen, replaced overtemped rotor) @ 128K
04-02-2009, 05:43 PM
#13
2002 6-SPEED. 106,000 miles... Bad MAF and Bank 1 primary O2 sensor. Cylinder #5 spark plug oiling problem. So far so good. Cant complain considering the mileage and the horsepower. Im a domestic boy who believes in the VQ35!
04-02-2009, 07:28 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MEMPHIS
Posts: 89
Nothing major til the wreck:
Before accident:
Starter 120K(Dealer recommended before warranty exp'd)
Battery (120K,190K)
MAF (130K)
Axles 140k (Sent it in to get one done; the shop gave a major deal on both)
Passenger Control arm 180k
Tie Rod 180k
Coils, coils, coils,coils I lost track after number (8)
Before accident:
Starter 120K(Dealer recommended before warranty exp'd)
Battery (120K,190K)
MAF (130K)
Axles 140k (Sent it in to get one done; the shop gave a major deal on both)
Passenger Control arm 180k
Tie Rod 180k
Coils, coils, coils,coils I lost track after number (8)
04-08-2009, 04:47 PM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
My 2000 SE turned over 300,000 miles today. I bought it one owner used with 88,000. Previously put close to 200,000 miles on a 1997 SE. Both automatics. Both white, glacier(?)
They've always sat outside in the southeast highland weather.
2000 gets slightly better mileage at around 23 city/26 hwy. My record was 29.5 mpg on tank of 73 mph cruisecontrol flat interstate.
Remarkably similar mechanical/electrical issues with both:
The 2000 has had MAF and IACV, both had radiator replacements. Both had one waterpump each. I chased the right front low speed clunk, forever, on both cars, spent way too much on strut bearing replacements and finally gave up and accepted it, although this forum gives me hope it can someday be defeated.
Was only stranded once due to total starter failure on the 2000. Didn't get any hard to start warning signs, just left me cold at an exit ramp Taco Bell, a $175 tow home.
Never replaced an ECM or coil. No tranmission work other than regular 25,000 mile fluid change. One O2 sensor that I can recall.
Starter and alternators were rebuilt/replaced at around 80-100K intervals, more than reasonable life and ok priced to replace.
No front end work at all other than normal CV boots.
One rear brake caliper.
No exhaust work on either and I regulary boat ramp a jetski in the summer and sometimes that tail pipe gets a little water. The U-haul brand hitch transferred directly from the 97 to the 00. Pulls the jetski at good highway speeds no problem although I did get some flashing OD issues pulling thru local mountains. OD reset properly as per owners manual.
I didn't even know they had electronic motor mounts and am now paranoid about it.
Brake rotors took repeated turnings and when due for replacement, were reasonably priced.
Really couldn't ask for much more from a piece of machinery that lives a hard life.
They've always sat outside in the southeast highland weather.
2000 gets slightly better mileage at around 23 city/26 hwy. My record was 29.5 mpg on tank of 73 mph cruisecontrol flat interstate.
Remarkably similar mechanical/electrical issues with both:
The 2000 has had MAF and IACV, both had radiator replacements. Both had one waterpump each. I chased the right front low speed clunk, forever, on both cars, spent way too much on strut bearing replacements and finally gave up and accepted it, although this forum gives me hope it can someday be defeated.
Was only stranded once due to total starter failure on the 2000. Didn't get any hard to start warning signs, just left me cold at an exit ramp Taco Bell, a $175 tow home.
Never replaced an ECM or coil. No tranmission work other than regular 25,000 mile fluid change. One O2 sensor that I can recall.
Starter and alternators were rebuilt/replaced at around 80-100K intervals, more than reasonable life and ok priced to replace.
No front end work at all other than normal CV boots.
One rear brake caliper.
No exhaust work on either and I regulary boat ramp a jetski in the summer and sometimes that tail pipe gets a little water. The U-haul brand hitch transferred directly from the 97 to the 00. Pulls the jetski at good highway speeds no problem although I did get some flashing OD issues pulling thru local mountains. OD reset properly as per owners manual.
I didn't even know they had electronic motor mounts and am now paranoid about it.
Brake rotors took repeated turnings and when due for replacement, were reasonably priced.
Really couldn't ask for much more from a piece of machinery that lives a hard life.
Last edited by blueridge; 04-08-2009 at 05:21 PM.
04-08-2009, 07:47 PM
#17
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 4
2000 SE Automatic purchased with 60K on the car.
Engine
60K - Replaced all coilpacks <- wish I knew about Maxima.org before I replaced them all!
100K - Replaced MAF
100K - 115K replaced alternator
135K - Replaced starter
140K - Replaced upper plenum gasket due to poor idle in the cold weather. Runs like a scared cat now!!
125K - Replaced O2 sensors
Suspension:
140K Changed to Tein Coilovers (in process)
Brakes:
60K replaced rear calipers and front rotors
Engine
60K - Replaced all coilpacks <- wish I knew about Maxima.org before I replaced them all!
100K - Replaced MAF
100K - 115K replaced alternator
135K - Replaced starter
140K - Replaced upper plenum gasket due to poor idle in the cold weather. Runs like a scared cat now!!
125K - Replaced O2 sensors
Suspension:
140K Changed to Tein Coilovers (in process)
Brakes:
60K replaced rear calipers and front rotors
04-09-2009, 12:10 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 544
2000 GLE 120000km
260 USD for updated Coil @ 70000km
110 USD for MAF @ 80000km
80 CDN for walmart battery @ 70000km
260 * 2 for two starter... <= (Could only get Bosch REMAN one in this little town...=.=) @ 70000km and 110000km...
260 USD for updated Coil @ 70000km
110 USD for MAF @ 80000km
80 CDN for walmart battery @ 70000km
260 * 2 for two starter... <= (Could only get Bosch REMAN one in this little town...=.=) @ 70000km and 110000km...
04-09-2009, 05:29 AM
#19
Dan, I'm in NJ so our environment is similar:
Coils/plugs at 60k
Alternator at 105k
MAF at 40K
Both CV boots somewhere around 60-80k (at different times)
Exhaust - been dealing with the 420/430 code since 90k miles. I'm at 120k.
I did a bearing job at 60k, probably wasn't needed but why not since my brakes were awful. Had the ES control arm bushings put in at the same time. New ball joints and sway bar endlinks also went in. Balljoints took a dump real quick, replaced those around 100k
I JUST did my radiator at 116k. I don't think anyone mentioned that.
And suspension of course, which I can't 100% comment on since I've been swapping different setups since 35k.
Coils/plugs at 60k
Alternator at 105k
MAF at 40K
Both CV boots somewhere around 60-80k (at different times)
Exhaust - been dealing with the 420/430 code since 90k miles. I'm at 120k.
I did a bearing job at 60k, probably wasn't needed but why not since my brakes were awful. Had the ES control arm bushings put in at the same time. New ball joints and sway bar endlinks also went in. Balljoints took a dump real quick, replaced those around 100k
I JUST did my radiator at 116k. I don't think anyone mentioned that.
And suspension of course, which I can't 100% comment on since I've been swapping different setups since 35k.
04-09-2009, 10:55 AM
#20
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
01 -- Original owner purchased Feb 01. Car currently has 63K. This car is my DD during inclement weather. It sits outside all the time.
Engine:
Exhaust: By far the most disappointing part. Car lives in Cincy.
Body:
Engine:
- O2's at 45K + ECU "reflash". I was "forced" to get the O2's in order to get the flash. I highly suspect that the "lazy" O2's would have worked fine. Did trip the CEL.
- Alternator at around 60K.
- Fuel filter around 30K to chase a bad gas mileage issue.
- No coils, but plugs at 45K. -- Normal Maint
- Tranny fluid every other year -- Normal Maint
- Coolant every year with Toyota Red -- Normal Maint
Exhaust: By far the most disappointing part. Car lives in Cincy.
- Had to sleeve the exhaust/b-pipe connection at 30K due to broken fastener.
- Had to replace B-Pipe back at 60K because sleeve rotted through and broke.
- Flex pipe is on its last legs and will need replaced soon.
Body:
- Body is rusting in the rear wheel wells.
- Hood is rusting underneath front lip.
04-09-2009, 10:14 PM
#21
2003 Maxima SE
Engine:
190k Km - oil pan rusted through causing an oil leak
Exhaust:
170k Km - exhaust became loose around the rubber piece it is suspended on (first used a temporary clamp fix, then got it welded back on)
185k Km - hole in pipe right before muffler (replaced a short piece of the pipe)
Suspension:
175k Km - Stabilizer bar end links
185k Km - replaced suspension with Eibachs / Illuminas. one of the front struts turned out to be totally gone.
Emission:
170k Km - Evap Canister valve (still haven't fixed it... probably never will)
Brakes:
180k Km - One of the rear calipers kept seizing up and needed to be replaced.
Electrical:
180k Km - MAF on it's way out?
Note, all numbers in kilometers.
Engine:
190k Km - oil pan rusted through causing an oil leak
Exhaust:
170k Km - exhaust became loose around the rubber piece it is suspended on (first used a temporary clamp fix, then got it welded back on)
185k Km - hole in pipe right before muffler (replaced a short piece of the pipe)
Suspension:
175k Km - Stabilizer bar end links
185k Km - replaced suspension with Eibachs / Illuminas. one of the front struts turned out to be totally gone.
Emission:
170k Km - Evap Canister valve (still haven't fixed it... probably never will)
Brakes:
180k Km - One of the rear calipers kept seizing up and needed to be replaced.
Electrical:
180k Km - MAF on it's way out?
Note, all numbers in kilometers.
06-01-2009, 01:52 PM
#26
2002 SE 111,xxx KM
I am in the process of changing my oilpan. It is rusted and leaking oil.
If anybody else has had this problem, is it just the lower pan the with rust problem or will I have to do the upper oilpan as well?
Also, It seems like some people in here have required alot of maintenance. Are you guys all baggin or racing ur cars or is this from average daily driving?
I am in the process of changing my oilpan. It is rusted and leaking oil.
If anybody else has had this problem, is it just the lower pan the with rust problem or will I have to do the upper oilpan as well?
Also, It seems like some people in here have required alot of maintenance. Are you guys all baggin or racing ur cars or is this from average daily driving?
06-02-2009, 01:04 AM
#28
ENGINE
Starter after 150k ($150)
Alternator after 140k ($200)
EXHAUST
Replaced with aftermarket, but nothing was rusted through at 110k
SUSPENSION / BRAKEs
No balljoints/bearings ever went bad in my car
ELECTRICAL
MAF at 125k
I manually shifted my automatic tranny alot, downshifts and upshifts, never had any problems when I sold it at 150k.
Starter after 150k ($150)
Alternator after 140k ($200)
EXHAUST
Replaced with aftermarket, but nothing was rusted through at 110k
SUSPENSION / BRAKEs
No balljoints/bearings ever went bad in my car
ELECTRICAL
MAF at 125k
I manually shifted my automatic tranny alot, downshifts and upshifts, never had any problems when I sold it at 150k.
06-02-2009, 04:28 AM
#29
2003 SE 73K
Engine
Changed belts at 70k
Battery 45k
Exhaust
Had to weld a hanger, and replaced the muffler. That was at 55k?
Suspension / Brakes
Upgraded pads and cross drilled slotted rotors around 40k. I've changed the pads again.
Had the suspension aligned for optimal driving with 20's (meaning I got a print out and it showed chamber and balance etc)
Electrical
Just this damn rear driver abs sensor. I have to fix that here eventually, its just annoying. It's been on for about 9k. Otherwise electricl has been good
Anyone know where to buy these and the best place to install them besides the dealership?
O
Engine
Changed belts at 70k
Battery 45k
Exhaust
Had to weld a hanger, and replaced the muffler. That was at 55k?
Suspension / Brakes
Upgraded pads and cross drilled slotted rotors around 40k. I've changed the pads again.
Had the suspension aligned for optimal driving with 20's (meaning I got a print out and it showed chamber and balance etc)
Electrical
Just this damn rear driver abs sensor. I have to fix that here eventually, its just annoying. It's been on for about 9k. Otherwise electricl has been good
Anyone know where to buy these and the best place to install them besides the dealership?
O
06-04-2009, 04:18 AM
#31
06-04-2009, 07:34 AM
#33
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 52
I bought my 2002 I35 with 75000 miles last April 2008, i currently have 103K miles. Ya i know i drive a lot 
The only thing that has gone wrong was an O2 sensor at about 80K miles
It does also burn a little oil
Oh ya and my rotors are warped to hell
The only thing that has gone wrong was an O2 sensor at about 80K miles
It does also burn a little oil
Oh ya and my rotors are warped to hell
06-04-2009, 02:51 PM
#35
2003 Maxima SE 82350 miles right now, purchased in 2006 with 49K Chicago IL
oil/filter change every 3K
Engine
Changed belts at 80k $80
3 new air filters
Exhaust
one hanger rusted of and rattling, welded for $35 81K
Suspension / Brakes
changed pads @~ 70K to hawk HPS with plain rotors
need to chance struts soon $$$
Electrical
BOSE started to cut out so i bought aftermarket unit ~?65K
oil/filter change every 3K
Engine
Changed belts at 80k $80
3 new air filters
Exhaust
one hanger rusted of and rattling, welded for $35 81K
Suspension / Brakes
changed pads @~ 70K to hawk HPS with plain rotors
need to chance struts soon $$$
Electrical
BOSE started to cut out so i bought aftermarket unit ~?65K
06-04-2009, 05:44 PM
#36
Engine:
Transmission was replaced due to slipping/skipping ($2600)
Rear Valve Cover Gasket ($400)
Exhaust:
(2)O2 Sensor(s) ($100 per sensor)
and thats pretty much it. Currentlt around 118k miles
Transmission was replaced due to slipping/skipping ($2600)
Rear Valve Cover Gasket ($400)
Exhaust:
(2)O2 Sensor(s) ($100 per sensor)
and thats pretty much it. Currentlt around 118k miles
06-04-2009, 06:45 PM
#37
2002 A/T, 150K. Purchased at 101K if I remember correctly.
-Front O2 sensors replaced at purchase. (Nissan did this for free so I'd buy the car.
)
-MAF replaced at 132k. ($200/$50 for work)
-Blower Motor bad since 120K, finally replaced at 149K ($35/DIY)
-Blower Motor Resistor bad since 130K, still have to order part.
That's it so far. I know that's not really "long term," but I thought I'd add to the list.
Hopefully that'll be it for a while, too. I'm planning on keeping the Max till it implodes. If it ever does.
-Front O2 sensors replaced at purchase. (Nissan did this for free so I'd buy the car.
)-MAF replaced at 132k. ($200/$50 for work)
-Blower Motor bad since 120K, finally replaced at 149K ($35/DIY)
-Blower Motor Resistor bad since 130K, still have to order part.
That's it so far. I know that's not really "long term," but I thought I'd add to the list.
Hopefully that'll be it for a while, too. I'm planning on keeping the Max till it implodes. If it ever does.
Last edited by Mr. Brett; 06-04-2009 at 06:52 PM.
06-04-2009, 10:53 PM
#38
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 256
2003 Maxima SE with moonroof as the only option.
I am the original owner and have not modded the car at all nor have I raced it. I did have a number of CEL's though which resulted in Nissan replacing the entire engine at around 58k miles under warranty. They also replaced the catalytic converter at the same time under warranty.
Other than that it's just been brakes, tires, and routine maintenance as per the owners manual.
I have 76,000 original miles on it currently after 6+ years. I own the car free and clear and I intend to keep it for a couple more years. The strut boots need to be replaced along with both tie rods which I will do in the next 5,000 miles when I need new tires (my second set). I might replace all four struts at that time along with the boots just for safety and peace of mind.
My best recommendation would be to follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedule to the letter and don't take your car to places like Jiffy Lube or Walmart for service. Honestly, those places will fvck up your car more than you ever could...unless you're a moron.
I am the original owner and have not modded the car at all nor have I raced it. I did have a number of CEL's though which resulted in Nissan replacing the entire engine at around 58k miles under warranty. They also replaced the catalytic converter at the same time under warranty.
Other than that it's just been brakes, tires, and routine maintenance as per the owners manual.
I have 76,000 original miles on it currently after 6+ years. I own the car free and clear and I intend to keep it for a couple more years. The strut boots need to be replaced along with both tie rods which I will do in the next 5,000 miles when I need new tires (my second set). I might replace all four struts at that time along with the boots just for safety and peace of mind.
My best recommendation would be to follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedule to the letter and don't take your car to places like Jiffy Lube or Walmart for service. Honestly, those places will fvck up your car more than you ever could...unless you're a moron.
Last edited by Jules Maximus; 06-04-2009 at 11:02 PM.
06-25-2009, 08:38 PM
#40
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12
Long Term Owner
Bought our 2001 Maxima SE in 2004 with 53,000 miles from an outside salesman, HIGHWAY MILES!!
This forum has always been a big help, I just never joined.
85000 miles, rear wheel bearing $125
95000 miles, Battery, Plugs, serpentine, fluids $300 at the stealership
100000 miles MAF $110
125000 miles Garage Ghetto intake $40 (it sounds cool and breathes easier)
170000 miles O2 sensor $90 (The SES is always on, so I probably have another to do)
I've run full synthetic (Mobil 1 usually, 5k interval) since about 140000 miles, and it always starts easily.
I change Tranny Fluid and coolant every 50000 miles
Lifetime mpg is around 24-26 w/ premium, I get better on a long trip, but I"m a pretty spirited driver.
I typically get about 30-60000 miles on brakes and do my own pads and turn the rotors if I can.
I might need an ABS sensor but it seems to be working again, weird.
170000 miles, fuel filter $20
180000 miles, front wheel bearing $200
187000 miles, $3 for muffler putty for small hole in pipe prior to muffler.
187300 miles. Today.
I think apart from the small paint chips on the hood (Nissan paint is not as good as Toyota's in my opinion), a small scratch on the rear bumper, and the psgr power seat not working in the fore/aft, the car looks great too. I typically buff it 1-2 times a year and put on a coat of Mequier's polish. I clayed it last summer (about 4 hours of elbow grease and 7 beers) and it really made the paint pop. I live in Wisconsin and it gets lots of salt.
If I don't get bored with it completely, I think I'll run it to 300000 miles.
This forum has always been a big help, I just never joined.
85000 miles, rear wheel bearing $125
95000 miles, Battery, Plugs, serpentine, fluids $300 at the stealership
100000 miles MAF $110
125000 miles Garage Ghetto intake $40 (it sounds cool and breathes easier)
170000 miles O2 sensor $90 (The SES is always on, so I probably have another to do)
I've run full synthetic (Mobil 1 usually, 5k interval) since about 140000 miles, and it always starts easily.
I change Tranny Fluid and coolant every 50000 miles
Lifetime mpg is around 24-26 w/ premium, I get better on a long trip, but I"m a pretty spirited driver.
I typically get about 30-60000 miles on brakes and do my own pads and turn the rotors if I can.
I might need an ABS sensor but it seems to be working again, weird.
170000 miles, fuel filter $20
180000 miles, front wheel bearing $200
187000 miles, $3 for muffler putty for small hole in pipe prior to muffler.
187300 miles. Today.
I think apart from the small paint chips on the hood (Nissan paint is not as good as Toyota's in my opinion), a small scratch on the rear bumper, and the psgr power seat not working in the fore/aft, the car looks great too. I typically buff it 1-2 times a year and put on a coat of Mequier's polish. I clayed it last summer (about 4 hours of elbow grease and 7 beers) and it really made the paint pop. I live in Wisconsin and it gets lots of salt.
If I don't get bored with it completely, I think I'll run it to 300000 miles.