Long Term Ownership Assesment
11-10-2010, 07:51 PM
#81
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2
2002 GLE 82,000 miles
while the car was under warranty:
1 O2 sensor
stereo - they replaced the whole thing since the CD player would not work
after warranty:
1 more O2 sensor
front struts
had to get the refrigerant pumped out and refilled
driver side seat motor that controls up/back is flaky but have not replaced it
Other than that, just standard stuff like batteries, tires, brake pads
while the car was under warranty:
1 O2 sensor
stereo - they replaced the whole thing since the CD player would not work
after warranty:
1 more O2 sensor
front struts
had to get the refrigerant pumped out and refilled
driver side seat motor that controls up/back is flaky but have not replaced it
Other than that, just standard stuff like batteries, tires, brake pads
12-20-2010, 05:45 PM
#83
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 28
110K
All 6 ignition coils (made the mistake of using a mechanic you replaced parts by ODB codes only, without any problem solving skills, with regard only to gross profit)
130K
PS High pressure hose
Steering Rack
Radiator
All Radiator Fans
Control arm Bushings
Bilge Pump
All 6 ignition coils (made the mistake of using a mechanic you replaced parts by ODB codes only, without any problem solving skills, with regard only to gross profit)
130K
PS High pressure hose
Steering Rack
Radiator
All Radiator Fans
Control arm Bushings
Bilge Pump
12-21-2010, 04:51 AM
#84
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 47
2001 GXE, 108,000 so far, things other than routine maintenance items:
Replaced auto transmission solenoid pack at about 25K (warranty).
Replaced three O2 sensors between 85-105K ($500 total for mechanic, would have been cheaper if I'd done all four at once)
Replaced alternator at about 85K ($600 for mechanic...the part alone was almost $450
).
Replaced one coil at 107K ($65 for myself).
Cut away a broken production join on the tail pipe and had it welded at about 80K, ($105, mechanic).
Replaced two brake calipers (one front/one rear), one rear rotor and front rotors twice. Front pads wearing at super fast rate on the new caliper side (probably due to crappy NAPA parts; needs a new caliper).
Has something bad on front suspension that has a clacky rattle, sway bar links I think, hoping not ball joints won't be until spring that I can do anything about either if I am to make the cost more like the coil than the alternator.
Front driver seat lift motor is non-functional.
Front driver window squeals like a banshee giving birth when lifting, but it still works.
Occasional drop-out of climate control lights on one side, functionality not affected. Yet.
Replaced auto transmission solenoid pack at about 25K (warranty).
Replaced three O2 sensors between 85-105K ($500 total for mechanic, would have been cheaper if I'd done all four at once)
Replaced alternator at about 85K ($600 for mechanic...the part alone was almost $450
).Replaced one coil at 107K ($65 for myself).
Cut away a broken production join on the tail pipe and had it welded at about 80K, ($105, mechanic).
Replaced two brake calipers (one front/one rear), one rear rotor and front rotors twice. Front pads wearing at super fast rate on the new caliper side (probably due to crappy NAPA parts; needs a new caliper).
Has something bad on front suspension that has a clacky rattle, sway bar links I think, hoping not ball joints won't be until spring that I can do anything about either if I am to make the cost more like the coil than the alternator.
Front driver seat lift motor is non-functional.
Front driver window squeals like a banshee giving birth when lifting, but it still works.
Occasional drop-out of climate control lights on one side, functionality not affected. Yet.
12-21-2010, 01:23 PM
#85
Put 28,000 miles on my car this year (now at 192,780) and so far my only repair has been the passenger side engine mount. Haven't had an SES light in more than a year...which means now that I've mentioned it....
I could use new struts and the power steering has the same slow leak it has had for a year now. Engine feels strong and the transmission is shifting better in cold weather than it ever has.
I could use new struts and the power steering has the same slow leak it has had for a year now. Engine feels strong and the transmission is shifting better in cold weather than it ever has.
12-21-2010, 07:01 PM
#86
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Around Charlotte NC
Posts: 27
03 I-35
Bought it in '06 with 11K miles on it. It was from around NYC and I think it did a lot of local driving. 3 years ago I got a job 70 miles away, averaging 35K miles a year now. Averaging 25-26 mpg at 75 mph on the highway - mpg display reads exactly 10 % high all the time. I drive fast but don't abuse it. The car's handling and brakes have saved my butt a coupe of times on the highway - good driver.
So far...
seat memory module - fixed on extended warranty
belts at 80K miles
new rotors on the front and pads all around at about 60K
routine maintenance - coolant flush, tune up at 110K, trans fluid every 40K
5K oil changes on M1 synthetic, with all highway driving.
I have 1 window that needs the "auto up" reset
Otherwise it has been a great car. Around 132K miles at the moment. Planning to do struts and sway bar bushings this spring. Will flush the brakes and PS fluid also.
Chuck
So far...
seat memory module - fixed on extended warranty
belts at 80K miles
new rotors on the front and pads all around at about 60K
routine maintenance - coolant flush, tune up at 110K, trans fluid every 40K
5K oil changes on M1 synthetic, with all highway driving.
I have 1 window that needs the "auto up" reset
Otherwise it has been a great car. Around 132K miles at the moment. Planning to do struts and sway bar bushings this spring. Will flush the brakes and PS fluid also.
Chuck
12-25-2010, 08:06 PM
#87
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1
Knock on wood, but here it goes:
2001- 241,000 miles
ENGINE
Serpentine belt @ 180k
TRANNY
None
ELECTRICAL
Clock doesn't work
SUSPENSION
None
BRAKES
Rotors and pads @ 150k, second set of pads at 220k
This car has been almost flawless. I told my wife that if she makes it to 250,000, we can start looking at new cars. She wants another Maxima.
2001- 241,000 miles
ENGINE
Serpentine belt @ 180k
TRANNY
None
ELECTRICAL
Clock doesn't work
SUSPENSION
None
BRAKES
Rotors and pads @ 150k, second set of pads at 220k
This car has been almost flawless. I told my wife that if she makes it to 250,000, we can start looking at new cars. She wants another Maxima.
01-03-2011, 01:26 PM
#89
Platinum plugs get replaced at 100,000 miles, remove them and bring them to a computer so you can check online how to read spark plugs. Then replace with NGK Iridium IX and go another 100,000 miles.
01-03-2011, 04:24 PM
#90
2003 SE: 225 miles on it when Carmax inherited the problem...
106k: Transmission (auto). Reverse went out.
150k: MAF
160k: engine stopped. Thought it was blown. Later found out the pre-cats disintegrated and clogged up the main cat. It was like concrete.
various O2's, charcoal canister, window regulator, camshaft position sensor, etc, etc, etc.
The car ended up being more expensive to keep on the road than my BMW (parts-wise and cost). If it's going to break on your max it probably already broke on my old one.
106k: Transmission (auto). Reverse went out.
150k: MAF
160k: engine stopped. Thought it was blown. Later found out the pre-cats disintegrated and clogged up the main cat. It was like concrete.
various O2's, charcoal canister, window regulator, camshaft position sensor, etc, etc, etc.
The car ended up being more expensive to keep on the road than my BMW (parts-wise and cost). If it's going to break on your max it probably already broke on my old one.
03-01-2011, 07:29 AM
#91
2000 Maxima purchased at 88k
90k-rear rotors and pads $70
123k-coil $60
143k-clutch line $160
168K-Front pads, rotors, AC compressor and axle seal (hoping it wasn't the tranny leaking)-$350
173K-2 02 sensors (primary and secondary IIRC) $105
182K-Replaced tranny, axles, rear calipers, pads and rotors all around -$1020
Speedometer stopped working prior to the transmission failure, so the following is an estimate
186K-coil-$25 (purchased used)
192K-crank pulley/harmonic balancer (it actually fell off the hub at the rubber portion taking the belts with it) $150
195K-front passenger wheel bearing $110
It still needs a bit more work, hard starting-CPS sensor, speedo and suspension. I would like to note, that the axles weren't clicking or anything when replaced they just had broken boots and since they had to be removed for the install what the hey. The rotors and calipers were changed at the same time as the tranny because the car had sat for 6 months causing the rear calipers to seize. So I'd say overall total repairs thus far haven't been killer, then again I've done a lot of the work myself.
Additionally, the tranny was diagnosed as having a bad input shaft (or maybe output) and it was leaking fluid. I was unemployed and didn't have the cash to fix it so I would refill it as it leaked about once a week. After about 7k miles I started to get a whine through all gears, this was diagnosed as the differential bearing. Drove on it for another 7k and it started to get hard to put in gear then eventually locked up. Drove nearly 15k on a bad tranny, pretty impressive IMO.
90k-rear rotors and pads $70
123k-coil $60
143k-clutch line $160
168K-Front pads, rotors, AC compressor and axle seal (hoping it wasn't the tranny leaking)-$350
173K-2 02 sensors (primary and secondary IIRC) $105
182K-Replaced tranny, axles, rear calipers, pads and rotors all around -$1020
Speedometer stopped working prior to the transmission failure, so the following is an estimate
186K-coil-$25 (purchased used)
192K-crank pulley/harmonic balancer (it actually fell off the hub at the rubber portion taking the belts with it) $150
195K-front passenger wheel bearing $110
It still needs a bit more work, hard starting-CPS sensor, speedo and suspension. I would like to note, that the axles weren't clicking or anything when replaced they just had broken boots and since they had to be removed for the install what the hey. The rotors and calipers were changed at the same time as the tranny because the car had sat for 6 months causing the rear calipers to seize. So I'd say overall total repairs thus far haven't been killer, then again I've done a lot of the work myself.
Additionally, the tranny was diagnosed as having a bad input shaft (or maybe output) and it was leaking fluid. I was unemployed and didn't have the cash to fix it so I would refill it as it leaked about once a week. After about 7k miles I started to get a whine through all gears, this was diagnosed as the differential bearing. Drove on it for another 7k and it started to get hard to put in gear then eventually locked up. Drove nearly 15k on a bad tranny, pretty impressive IMO.
03-01-2011, 10:28 AM
#92
Here is the detailed list started by the previous owner at 29k, until now @ 108k miles. Total cost of maintenance including oil changes and adding aftermarket parts = roughly $4k in five and a half years.
The cost of fixing broken parts (driver side axle, MAF, Rear VC and precat), without including regular maintenance and aftermarket parts is only about $900.
EDIT: I had posted an entire list but it didn't display it correctly so I deleted it.
The cost of fixing broken parts (driver side axle, MAF, Rear VC and precat), without including regular maintenance and aftermarket parts is only about $900.
EDIT: I had posted an entire list but it didn't display it correctly so I deleted it.
Last edited by Gizm0; 03-01-2011 at 10:30 AM.
06-03-2011, 08:41 PM
#93
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12
Updates
Miles: 242,000
Replaced starter at about 235,000.
Might need to mend exhaust again.
Possibly needs new cooling fan or thermostat.
The first cancer is creeping around the fender near the gas tank.
Replaced starter at about 235,000.
Might need to mend exhaust again.
Possibly needs new cooling fan or thermostat.
The first cancer is creeping around the fender near the gas tank.
06-04-2011, 04:31 PM
#94
My $.02 original owner of 2002 SE 6sp 12/01 car has 88k on 6/11. Had a few items replaced under warranty (transverse link, clutch disc, accelerator pedal, front tweeter, MAF, 6 cd radio -replaced twice, engine sensor, and rear exhaust O2 sensor). Since then excluding mods, regular maintenance, and mishaps (broken fog light, smashed driver window), I've had the following:
- Couple of bulbs in the AC unit display ($10)
- Fan controller IC ($230 from a reputable mechanic)
- Replaced 6 cd radio ($230 off of ebay)
- I was throwing a few 0302 codes so I spent $120 to replace the usual items (plug, pvc, coil). Still occasionally get them but its been awhile now.
For me the radio is the most problematic thing on the car.
Regardless, I keep good records and this works out to about $570/yr for maintenance which is better than the wife's 04 Toyota Sienna. I consider this pretty good considering several of my colleagues say their Bimmers are usually about $1k/yr. Hope this helps.
- Couple of bulbs in the AC unit display ($10)
- Fan controller IC ($230 from a reputable mechanic)
- Replaced 6 cd radio ($230 off of ebay)
- I was throwing a few 0302 codes so I spent $120 to replace the usual items (plug, pvc, coil). Still occasionally get them but its been awhile now.
For me the radio is the most problematic thing on the car.
Regardless, I keep good records and this works out to about $570/yr for maintenance which is better than the wife's 04 Toyota Sienna. I consider this pretty good considering several of my colleagues say their Bimmers are usually about $1k/yr. Hope this helps.
07-01-2011, 01:20 PM
#95
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12
Update:
246,000 miles
Replaced:
The only remaining wheel bearing.
CV axle/boot
Turned rotors
Serpentine belt
Replaced thermostat and coolant, still overheating.
Replaced water control valve and flushed system, still overheating.
Replaced radiator, all is good.
I was unable to do all work on my own, and some was unnecessary, but for $1200, I can run it another 100,000.
246,000 miles
Replaced:
The only remaining wheel bearing.
CV axle/boot
Turned rotors
Serpentine belt
Replaced thermostat and coolant, still overheating.
Replaced water control valve and flushed system, still overheating.
Replaced radiator, all is good.
I was unable to do all work on my own, and some was unnecessary, but for $1200, I can run it another 100,000.
07-01-2011, 02:22 PM
#96
'02 SE 6MT totalled at 135K miles, purchased at 118K miles
Immediately before I bought it, it got a new muffler, two new fog-lights, and a front-wheel bearing.
Maintenance needed when the car died:
New wiring for the EVAP canister's purge valve at the back of the car
Motor mounts
Struts (looks like they'd been replaced once in the car's life)
Alternator (at least one winding was shot, wasn't putting out 14V)
Maintenance performed in my possession:
New rear brakes (rotors, pads, calipers--one seized on me at 131K miles)
New serpentine belt (118K)
New EVAP canister
Spark plugs (119K)
Gear oil change (128K)
No O2 sensors were throwing codes, but they could definitely have been replaced. I think I spent about $100 a month on my car over 18 months, but $900 of that were new tires, and Mobil 1 0W-40 oil and M1 filters aren't cheap.
Overall, I was very satisfied with the car's reliability. Not once did it fail to start or leave me stranded.
Immediately before I bought it, it got a new muffler, two new fog-lights, and a front-wheel bearing.
Maintenance needed when the car died:
New wiring for the EVAP canister's purge valve at the back of the car
Motor mounts
Struts (looks like they'd been replaced once in the car's life)
Alternator (at least one winding was shot, wasn't putting out 14V)
Maintenance performed in my possession:
New rear brakes (rotors, pads, calipers--one seized on me at 131K miles)
New serpentine belt (118K)
New EVAP canister
Spark plugs (119K)
Gear oil change (128K)
No O2 sensors were throwing codes, but they could definitely have been replaced. I think I spent about $100 a month on my car over 18 months, but $900 of that were new tires, and Mobil 1 0W-40 oil and M1 filters aren't cheap.
Overall, I was very satisfied with the car's reliability. Not once did it fail to start or leave me stranded.
07-02-2011, 06:40 PM
#98
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 604
It may already be on here, but what one must do is calculate strictly cost of repairs, maint, etc, and break it down by the mile. That will create the bell curve of cost of ownership of the car by mileage.
Also, what i think too is that since we are more likely to fix our cars and pay close attention, SOMETIMES we spend money we don't have to, and then guys that have a honda or something say they put nothing in them and in all reality they have accrued maintenance items that they don't bother to do or don't know about yet....and then say all they put it in it is *gas & oil changes* for 100k miles....bull crap...any car needs more than that..they just dont take care of it.
Also, what i think too is that since we are more likely to fix our cars and pay close attention, SOMETIMES we spend money we don't have to, and then guys that have a honda or something say they put nothing in them and in all reality they have accrued maintenance items that they don't bother to do or don't know about yet....and then say all they put it in it is *gas & oil changes* for 100k miles....bull crap...any car needs more than that..they just dont take care of it.
07-03-2011, 01:29 AM
#99
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Northern California
Posts: 158
2002 GLE w/220,000 miles
Most of this is from memory so a few items might drop through the cracks. Original owner, took delivery 02/2002.
Under warranty or TSB the following items were replaced:
1. Tranverse Links (lower control arms) Recall
2. Rear springs replaced per TSB (sagging suspension)
3. Rubber things installed to reduce hood vibration at high speed
4. Driver's seat motor replaced (jammed in one position)
5. CD changer was acting up, dealer updated firmware
Other things that were replaced along the way to 220,000 miles:
1. Rear valve cover for a leaking seal at 200K
2. One spark plug coil due to leaking seal on valve cover
3. All struts, mounts, & boots at 211K
4. Inner tie rod on passenger side at 213K
5. Repaired coolant leak in manifold that runs between the two heads at 190K
6. Transmission flush every 50K
7. Coolant flush every 3 years or 50K
8. Oil changes every 5,000 miles since day one
9. Spark plugs every 100K
10. Air filter every 15K
11. Cabin filters every 50K
12. Replaced original battery at 175K
13. Replaced lamps in climate control at 208K (2 were out)
14. Replaced all four brake rotors at 160K
15. Drive belts at 100K & 200K
16. Upper and lower radiator hoses at 100K
17. All exterior lamps (except the HID) replaced at 202K
18. Driver's window was going down when using the auto up mode, dealer had to do some sort of adjustment (no parts used)
19. Both pre-cat O2 sensors (one was causing a MIL code, dealer replaced both) at 140K
20. Power steering flush at 217K
21. Replaced one fog light for a cracked lens
A short list of stuff like wiper blades, brake pads, tires, floor mats, etc.
Overall, I've been very impressed with the reliability of the Maxima. Smog tests come back with very low tailpipe emissions, some are at or very close to zero. All the electronics, climate controls, stereo, cruise control, etc. work perfectly.
The headlights have yellowed a bit and need to be buffed out.
When gas prices went ape a few years ago I switched to the lower octane fuel. I've kept a fuel log for the Maxima since day one and fuel economy remained unchanged (26 MPG). With the higher ethanol content in our gas now the engine would ping a little so I finally switched back to premium about 3 months ago.
I'm expecting the alternator to go out someday and picked up a new one from Courtesy Nissan about 2 years ago when they were on sale. I also have a set of drive belts and radiator hoses in the garage.
I'm hoping to keep the Maxima going until she hits 300K and will almost certainly replace it with another Maxima.
Under warranty or TSB the following items were replaced:
1. Tranverse Links (lower control arms) Recall
2. Rear springs replaced per TSB (sagging suspension)
3. Rubber things installed to reduce hood vibration at high speed
4. Driver's seat motor replaced (jammed in one position)
5. CD changer was acting up, dealer updated firmware
Other things that were replaced along the way to 220,000 miles:
1. Rear valve cover for a leaking seal at 200K
2. One spark plug coil due to leaking seal on valve cover
3. All struts, mounts, & boots at 211K
4. Inner tie rod on passenger side at 213K
5. Repaired coolant leak in manifold that runs between the two heads at 190K
6. Transmission flush every 50K
7. Coolant flush every 3 years or 50K
8. Oil changes every 5,000 miles since day one
9. Spark plugs every 100K
10. Air filter every 15K
11. Cabin filters every 50K
12. Replaced original battery at 175K
13. Replaced lamps in climate control at 208K (2 were out)
14. Replaced all four brake rotors at 160K
15. Drive belts at 100K & 200K
16. Upper and lower radiator hoses at 100K
17. All exterior lamps (except the HID) replaced at 202K
18. Driver's window was going down when using the auto up mode, dealer had to do some sort of adjustment (no parts used)
19. Both pre-cat O2 sensors (one was causing a MIL code, dealer replaced both) at 140K
20. Power steering flush at 217K
21. Replaced one fog light for a cracked lens
A short list of stuff like wiper blades, brake pads, tires, floor mats, etc.
Overall, I've been very impressed with the reliability of the Maxima. Smog tests come back with very low tailpipe emissions, some are at or very close to zero. All the electronics, climate controls, stereo, cruise control, etc. work perfectly.
The headlights have yellowed a bit and need to be buffed out.
When gas prices went ape a few years ago I switched to the lower octane fuel. I've kept a fuel log for the Maxima since day one and fuel economy remained unchanged (26 MPG). With the higher ethanol content in our gas now the engine would ping a little so I finally switched back to premium about 3 months ago.
I'm expecting the alternator to go out someday and picked up a new one from Courtesy Nissan about 2 years ago when they were on sale. I also have a set of drive belts and radiator hoses in the garage.
I'm hoping to keep the Maxima going until she hits 300K and will almost certainly replace it with another Maxima.
Last edited by slo-ryde; 07-03-2011 at 01:48 AM.
07-22-2011, 07:50 AM
#101
Bought my car at 145000 and immediately had to do all 4 rotors/pads, sway bar end links, FR control arm, needs struts/mounts.
Hope this thing lasts a while!!
I am the 2nd owner. The first owner didnt really do anything the last 50k outside of changing the oil so I kinda caught it up I guess.
She smoked like a freight train too!! Ghaa, thank God for strong chemicals.
Hope this thing lasts a while!!
I am the 2nd owner. The first owner didnt really do anything the last 50k outside of changing the oil so I kinda caught it up I guess.
She smoked like a freight train too!! Ghaa, thank God for strong chemicals.
Last edited by REDL1NE; 07-22-2011 at 08:01 AM.
10-26-2011, 08:41 PM
#102
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 12
Update:
258,000 miles.
Changed oil to Mobil 1 Extended Performance with Fram Extra Guard...moving to the 10,000 mile oil change interval.
I think it may be time for another front brake job...sometime in the next 10,000 miles. Due up is Transmission fluid/filter change.
258,000 miles.
Changed oil to Mobil 1 Extended Performance with Fram Extra Guard...moving to the 10,000 mile oil change interval.
I think it may be time for another front brake job...sometime in the next 10,000 miles. Due up is Transmission fluid/filter change.
10-27-2011, 01:17 AM
#103
229,500 and fighting a 3rd major transmission service. Leaking from the front pump area and possibly around the axle seals causing the front control arm bushings/ball joints to wear away.
01-28-2014, 09:13 AM
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
2000 SE - Original Owner
I am the original owner of a 2000 SE with AT. The car now has 118k miles and is in very good shape. I have changed oil regularly (Mobil 1 since 49K miles) and flushed AT and coolant every 30k miles. My other repairs/maintenance (excludes tires):
01-31-2014, 12:19 AM
#108
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
My 2000 SE turned over 300,000 miles today. I bought it one owner used with 88,000. Previously put close to 200,000 miles on a 1997 SE. Both automatics. Both white, glacier(?)
They've always sat outside in the southeast highland weather.
2000 gets slightly better mileage at around 23 city/26 hwy. My record was 29.5 mpg on tank of 73 mph cruisecontrol flat interstate.
Remarkably similar mechanical/electrical issues with both:
The 2000 has had MAF and IACV, both had radiator replacements. Both had one waterpump each. I chased the right front low speed clunk, forever, on both cars, spent way too much on strut bearing replacements and finally gave up and accepted it, although this forum gives me hope it can someday be defeated.
Was only stranded once due to total starter failure on the 2000. Didn't get any hard to start warning signs, just left me cold at an exit ramp Taco Bell, a $175 tow home.
Never replaced an ECM or coil. No tranmission work other than regular 25,000 mile fluid change. One O2 sensor that I can recall.
Starter and alternators were rebuilt/replaced at around 80-100K intervals, more than reasonable life and ok priced to replace.
No front end work at all other than normal CV boots.
One rear brake caliper.
No exhaust work on either and I regulary boat ramp a jetski in the summer and sometimes that tail pipe gets a little water. The U-haul brand hitch transferred directly from the 97 to the 00. Pulls the jetski at good highway speeds no problem although I did get some flashing OD issues pulling thru local mountains. OD reset properly as per owners manual.
I didn't even know they had electronic motor mounts and am now paranoid about it.
Brake rotors took repeated turnings and when due for replacement, were reasonably priced.
Really couldn't ask for much more from a piece of machinery that lives a hard life.
They've always sat outside in the southeast highland weather.
2000 gets slightly better mileage at around 23 city/26 hwy. My record was 29.5 mpg on tank of 73 mph cruisecontrol flat interstate.
Remarkably similar mechanical/electrical issues with both:
The 2000 has had MAF and IACV, both had radiator replacements. Both had one waterpump each. I chased the right front low speed clunk, forever, on both cars, spent way too much on strut bearing replacements and finally gave up and accepted it, although this forum gives me hope it can someday be defeated.
Was only stranded once due to total starter failure on the 2000. Didn't get any hard to start warning signs, just left me cold at an exit ramp Taco Bell, a $175 tow home.
Never replaced an ECM or coil. No tranmission work other than regular 25,000 mile fluid change. One O2 sensor that I can recall.
Starter and alternators were rebuilt/replaced at around 80-100K intervals, more than reasonable life and ok priced to replace.
No front end work at all other than normal CV boots.
One rear brake caliper.
No exhaust work on either and I regulary boat ramp a jetski in the summer and sometimes that tail pipe gets a little water. The U-haul brand hitch transferred directly from the 97 to the 00. Pulls the jetski at good highway speeds no problem although I did get some flashing OD issues pulling thru local mountains. OD reset properly as per owners manual.
I didn't even know they had electronic motor mounts and am now paranoid about it.
Brake rotors took repeated turnings and when due for replacement, were reasonably priced.
Really couldn't ask for much more from a piece of machinery that lives a hard life.
I had the same problem, mechanic replaced struts, LAC's, bearings, etc. - but the strut was the main cause! Based on feedback from this forum, I convinced him to replace the mount and the problem went away.
I used Anchor part #9031 from RockAuto.com, $46.89; the best money I ever spent on the car!
02-24-2014, 04:49 AM
#109
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 7
2003 Maxima SE Original Owner with 170,000 miles.
Spark plugs and Tranny fluid 130K
Altenator 147K,
Radiator (and Hose) 140K
Oil cooler gakset 148K
Power Steering Hose 152K
Struts and Shocks 153K
Motor Mounts (all 4) 167K
Burns oil to the tune of about a quart a month. Found a slight amount of oil in spark plug chamber when I changed them. I probly need to replace valve covers but will wait till 200K and change plugs/covers then as the car runs as great today as when I first got her.
Since I have done all of the above myself, the only cost has been parts. so I figure $3,500 a year in cost (exclude gas and oil) when adding in purchase price. Even putting and average of $500 a year into her, the price just get lower and lower as the miles pile on.
Spark plugs and Tranny fluid 130K
Altenator 147K,
Radiator (and Hose) 140K
Oil cooler gakset 148K
Power Steering Hose 152K
Struts and Shocks 153K
Motor Mounts (all 4) 167K
Burns oil to the tune of about a quart a month. Found a slight amount of oil in spark plug chamber when I changed them. I probly need to replace valve covers but will wait till 200K and change plugs/covers then as the car runs as great today as when I first got her.
Since I have done all of the above myself, the only cost has been parts. so I figure $3,500 a year in cost (exclude gas and oil) when adding in purchase price. Even putting and average of $500 a year into her, the price just get lower and lower as the miles pile on.
06-26-2015, 07:59 AM
#110
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
Front radiator support, will be rusted like crazy after 14 years (251k kilometers)
http://www.rockauto.com/info/remotec...b2c1__ra_p.jpg
http://www.rockauto.com/info/remotec...b2c1__ra_p.jpg
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