I have some fluid leaking out of the passenger side bushing that attaches the rear beam to the car. I'm not sure of the proper term but I think it is called the torsion pivot bushing. The area leaking is indicated in the picture below.


I have not been able to determine whether this bushing is replaceable. The FSM is no help as it doesn't show this bushing as a separate part. I read somewhere, not here, that the entire rear suspension needs to be replaced if this bushing is leaking. Is that true? It seems strange that I wouldn't be able to replace a bushing. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

FYI, I searched this topic here but did not find any information related to the a33. Feel free to point me in the right direction if this has already been covered. Thanks.

 

http://www.digitalpolo.com/2002Maxim...hing%20Set.htm

 

Yep, there ya go.

You've been pretty scarce around these parts, Kevin...

 

What kind of fluid would be leaking out of there??

 

The thinnest oil you've ever seen in your life, makes the burning process more fun. They are liquid filled mounts.

 

Between building the de-k for what should be the highest horsepower maxima very soon (not mine ), usps losing a polished upper w/fully portmatched nwp spacers, lower, tb, etc, allblackmax's motor replacement took way longer than it should have, and a ****load of personal stuff, I think I went a week and a half without logging in!

 

Are you gonna replace yours with the Energy Suspension replacement P/n 7.7108?

 

Blasphemy...

 

Thanks a lot. It looks like a lot of work but easier to stomach than replacing the whole rear assembly.

 

mine is leaking too. same side. i just bought these http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.7108

 

If you actually follow the scope of work in the link, changing out the rear assembly is less work, but more money. Courtesy lists the assembly for ~$475.

 

im looking at the directions and it looks like yuou might be able to do this with the beam in the car still. Just unattach some points and angle the front of the trailing arm down to get at the bushing. I think if you undo the shocks and trailing arm mount and some other stuff it will give enough room to get at them and kill some time.

 

ive had the es bushing on my car for soemtime now, its not an easy job but its a really nice upgrade, i felt quite a difference. and now i wont have to worry about them leaking anymore.

 

What would be left holding it under the car? Just the transverse assembly?

 

you can have the rear held wit hthe jack and lower the assembly until you have clearance

 

I have a customer coming down in a week to get this job done, and that's EXACTLY what I told him. Basically gave him 2 different prices based on if this will work or not, I had to swap rear axles on my moms I35 after an accident and I remember it being a *****, but that was before I had a lift. Anyways, if someone is doing this soon: Please try to drop just one trailing arm down and do it on the car, it would be sweet if I had a heads up of whether or not it can be done like this, I do LCA's like this no problem.

 

Well you might be able to do one side at a time, in which case it would be one trailing arm, the rear shocks, & the transverse stuff.

 

thats wahat im thinking krrz,
im sure getting the bushing out is a PITA a$$ but even if you undid where the shocks bolt on the housing, the trailing arm mounts, any lines in the way, the wheels, the sway bar, and any other thing in the way but left the rear part of the assembly in to hold the rear in place it may make it a faster job. even if the bushings are only sitting 6 inches from the body that gives me enough room to do what i need to do.

 

Any concussion to whether the bushing install is possible by rotating just the arms down and not removing the whole beam? Luckily, I might have access to a lift.