Well my OBX headers are gonna get the dust shook off em this saturday. I've got my OEM metal gaskets, wire for O2 extending, rear O2 sensor bung relocated, PB Blaster, and print outs of just about everything on this forum referring to OBX headers.

Before I put this beast up on jack stands and dive in head first, I wanted to see if anyone had some last minute tips/suggestions for the install.

I'll be sure to document every step of the process and post pics etc.

 

Count your blessings for not living in New England...buddy of mine just attempted this install and went through a whole can of PB before eventually stripping 2 bolts.

Take some pics for us!

 

JUST DO IT! You could've reused the exhaust gaskets their multi layered stainless steel! I would suggest you install new nuts though and have your anti-seize ready too go.....Congratulations you'll enjoy the hell out of them....Oh yeah you might wanna try to get the right solder from Radio Shack for stainless steel wires! GL

 

Yeah I know the OEM gaskets are reuseable but hey... I'm going in there anyways, I might as well just make everything new. $23 for 2-day shipped ain't bad anyways. Its funny, but even the gaskets look pretty good.

I'm not sure that I am going to solder the wires. I was thinking more along the lines of splicing and using posi-lock connectors to hold them together and wrap with electrical tape. I've heard the O2 sensor wires dont take well to solder because of their material make up.

Think that would work ok?

Yeah here in OK its super dry and if and when it ever snows or ices over I dont drive my car. I've already had it up on a lift and looked over the every inch of the under carriage. Every bolt looked great. I didnt see any rust. Checked the flex tubing on the stock exhaust where most people have problems and nothing... looked clean as hell! I was really surprised...

I'll be sure to take pictures man... trust! I'm not doing all this prep etc. to not have it documented in the end. Hell... I may even come up with the DEFINITIVE OBX writeup!

We'll see

 

even i'm excited for this lol.. good luck bro

 

go outside right now and spray down all of the bolts with pb blaster ahead of time.... then go outside tomorrow and use the rest of the can... then go to the store and buy a new can for this weekend... lol... trust me.. and u can thank me later.. lol

 

There are no good write ups for this, so help us out!!!

 

dont forget about your o2 simulator, unless you want a CEL

 

That's very true about trying to solder it....there's a special solder you can get from Radio Shack for stainless steel wires! There's an "all in one" crimp-solder-heatshrink terminals are also good and easy too use! Get some heatshrink at least it will last longer than electric tape and has a cleaner look. I actually put my extended O2 sensor wiring in thermo sleeves since it was so close to the header!

 

gluck!!

 

I didn't think mine was bad

My Writeup

 

With all due respects, it's fair.

I consider this to be the gold-standard for write-ups, you'll understand what I mean.

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php

 

Personally I'd just extend the engine control harness side, and not the O2 sensor side.

That way

1. If you ever have to replace it, it'll be plug and play.
2. You can solder the wires, and not have to rely on a crimp connector.

And if you solder, use heatshrink.

 

be ready for lots of cursing and sore muscles! lol.. good luck man

 

Yaay!!!! take pics and vids!!!

 

actually i think ur was as good as it should be... if anyone needs any more info, they shouldnt be doing this install themselves... i was tryin to remember who had the write up

 

I have a suggestion, put them on my car.

Good luck with the install, I know it has to be a lot more work than it was putting a header on my Accord.

 

Man, ain't that the truth...LOL. I think I used every foul word in the dictionary 20 different times (exaggeration) but yeah it definitely takes a toll on you both mentally and physically.

 

Good luck with the install. Ill most likely be putting mine on next Saturday.

Let us know if you had to grind or cut anything, or modify anything besides the rear o2 bung.

Some people in the other thread were saying something about OBX improving their design and now you dont have to grind anything.

 

is the o2 bung a must change when you install the OBX headers?

 

You have some reading to do. Search is your friend.

 

I've heard of people being able to install without doing the relocation but... why wouldn't you??? It costs $25 at your local exhaust and muffler shop. If you leave it the way it is the rear end of the rear primary O2 sensor will rub, knock, possibly break off against your firewall. IMAGINE TRYING TO GET A WRENCH IN BETWEEN THERE!!! It's so simple and cheap to do that I don't see any reason to NOT do it.

Thanks to everyone for your good luck wishes and advice. I appreciate it!

vastmax: I'm just going to run with an SES. The secondary O2 sensors don't effect the way your ECU tries to even the engines mixtures like the primaries. There are no yearly inspections in OK so I'm not worried about passing. I'll probably add an O2 sim in due time though...


CMax03: I've never soldered anything before but if its easy to pick up the craft I'll check out a kit like you were talking about.

wyche89: I've prepared myself mentally (natural remedy ) and physically (Bowflex ) so I think I'll make it through alright.

Unklejoe: I'll let you know if I got the "newer" model or not... having to grind will tell. I've got my die grinder up and ready for action if needs be. It's only a very small grind, if needed, though so I'm not worried about it.

 

i say forget the weekend and go throw them on now

 

Yeah... there's this place I gotta go to monday through friday from 9-5 to be able to pay for all my mods though. It's this lil thing called a job... or as Snoop Dogg's pops would say, "... jobby job."

"And don't be messin' wit the 8-track!"

That may be a lil before some of your times though...

 

ok i guess your right, but if it were me i would have called in sick, but i hate my job.

 

u can always quit.... guess u dont hate it that much now do u?

 

i hated my job enough to quit lol.. i'm on a vacation until end of june then i'll work my @$$ off

 

From what I read, you dont need to relocate the rear primary o2 bung if you are willing to extend the primary o2 to the next bung downstream on the header.

 

like everyone else said... take pics

 

Cant wait for this write-up

 

Yeah I've heard folks do that as well. I just want to be able to plug all my O2 sensors in. Maybe I'll get an ses... Maybe not. I've heard it go either way for others. If I get an ses I'll eventually put foulers on the secondaries. I just don't wanna mess with a sim. Just my preference I guess...

 

in for some pics, this might be my next project

 

good luck man.....

 

That's what I did. It is much easier soldering the wires on the ECU side than those slippery O2 wires.

 

Good luck!

 

I find your contradictory statement funny. I mean an o2 sim costs like $30, so why not do it too?

I didnt follow the original thread, but did someone inform OBX that the bung i in the wrong spot? maybe they could modify the design for future headers.

 

so did u start on the install yet?

 

yeah any updates? or you're still driving your car around lol

 

Install was a failure

It really sucked... We got pretty far along with no problems. Took off the intake manifold, radiator fans, both header shields, loosened all the front header bolts, took out the front and rear preimary O2s, began loosing the y-pipe and got all the bolts loosened. Got to the last bolt attaching the y to the cat and the bolt rounded out. OOPS! We tried everything to get that one bolt off!!! The metal on it was mush! Tried vice grips and breaker bar and the teeth we just cutting through the metal. Tried hammering on a 13mm (the bolt is 14mm) socket onto it and it was just slipping over and over. Keep in mind I went out and PB Blasted all these bolts a ton the night before.

Without the right tools to heat and cut the stud off we had nowhere to go. If you cant get the y-pipe off there's no sense in moving any further.

We put everything back together and Ill be taking my car to the exhuast shop this week to get that stud cut and replaced. While I'm there I'll make sure they loosen ALL the bolts before I even start again.

I'd recommend doing this to anyone wanting to install headers. I live in a very dry area of the US and STILL had a seized bolt. Take your car to an exhaust shop before your install and just pay them to break all your bolts loose before you get far along and have to stop like I did.

So...you'll be happy to know I did take a ton of pictures up until this point and I'll continue the weekend after next. I'll be getting my exhuast before then so Im gonna do the full header to tips install all at once... should be fun.

Up until this one, single b**** of a bolt the install was going very well. The rear manifold bolts still looked like they were going to be tough to get at but with the right combo of sockets it seemed doable.

Stay tuned... weekend after next its going down. Apologies for the delay...

Im gonna drown my sorrows now...

 

Sorry to hear it man. I assume you couldn't get a hacksaw or nut splitter in there, eh?