offer any packaged deals with the torque link, intake spacer and delete plate?

want this come spring

EDIT: NEED this come spring

 

Looking good Rochester!

It's also good to wipe it down every so often to make sure road salt isn't sitting on it for an extended period of time.

The NWP Engine Torque Link (ETL) shouldn't be a fix for bad motor mounts. Even though it will drastically help your performance since your motor moves excessively due to worn mounts, I would still have a plan to fix your mounts in the future.

The best setup would be to have some nice polyurethane engine mounts along with the ETL. If you installed the ETL with worn engine mounts, you are putting most of the stress on the bar itself. It can handle it, but it wasn't tested with broken mounts.

The ETL will make a HUGE difference for you. But go ahead and put a plan in the works to fix your motor mounts.

We don't have a package deal if you order all 3 products at once. But, we will ship in the same package and you will be able to save money on shipping costs. The exact shipping costs are automatically calculated once you enter your zip code in your shopping cart.

http://www.nwpengineering.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html

Also, I usually mention to any customer looking to purchase all 3 products at once that I'd be happy to throw in a free 100% cotton NWP Racing Tshirt for free. Just be sure to tell me the size you wear.

 

Thank you, sir. I was hoping you'd like it.

This here. It's nice.

 

I just installed mine today, and it's an absolutely fantastic mod that I should have purchased much sooner. I find that every shift I make is pretty much perfect now. I was especially impressed in parking lots when going over speed bumps, as the lack of engine movement totally removes any lurching that I experienced previously, even with a set of polyurethane engine mounts. It makes it easier to drive in reverse smoothly whereas before was a bit of an adventure at times due to the engine moving around, and driving up my driveway smoothly into my garage is now much easier as well. I too noticed a distinct change in exhaust tone from before, which I can't say I expected, although I do recall Rochester mentioning it previously as I browsed through this thread again.

 

There's a rubber-lined, loop-bracket connecting the two power steering lines together and to the frame. I want to flip that connector to the opposite side of the PS lines, so it doesn't have to piggy-back on top of the Torque Link frame plate.

Aaron, any reason why I couldn't drill and tap a new hole for that PS bracket and turn it around?

 

I don't see any reason why you couldn't relocate that bracket so it doesn't bolt to the lower ETL bracket. As long as PS fluid is still flowing through the tube and makes it way to the front of the radiator, you should be fine.

 

Just want to give a quick review on the torque link.

I already had ES mounts before this, and the difference is very noticeable. It's easier to shift (especially WOT shifting fast), the shifter feels more solid in general and this torque link is 100% of the reason that my intake manifold is even viable so that it doesn't hit the firewall.

I noticed absolutely no increase in vibration over what I already had with the ES mounts.

Great product yet again Aaron!

 

Can't wait to get my PU mounts in and ETL. My car has been stupidly clumsily shifting lately.


I can actually hear the engine rocking through the exhaust tone.

 

Also I forgot to mention... my cattman 3" used to bang on the rear suspension sometimes during hard shifts b/c of engine movement. No more!

 

Bumping this thread with new pictures of the NWP Torque Link, installed on the car. And some things learned with this second installation:

• It's a whole lot easier messing around in that corner if you remove the radiator overflow tank. Removing the tank is simply a matter of backing out two 10-mm M6 bolts, and lifting it up and out of the way.
• The loop bracket that holds the PS lines to the frame can be easily turned around. I drilled and tapped a new hole to a M6 thread, and simply turned this little bracket around.
• Similarly, the grounding connection on the other end can be piggy-backed to the other one only two inches away. And you can toss that fugly L-bracket holding one of the grounding wire sets.
• The PS lines will polish up to a chrome-like finish with Maquires Metal Polish. Who knew?
• The frame bracket has to swivel from the center to the extents of the outer slots in order to line up with the engine mount bracket. But that's just my car... every car will probably be slightly different.
• On the center bolt, I couldn't use a large washer, or even the big Ti-bolt by itself without a washer, because I needed that extra 8th inch to position the frame plate. So in that thread, I used one of the hardened SS bolts that came with the kit.

Still very happy with this product.

 

Very descriptive information and great photos... As always. Thanks!

 

Looks great Rochester! Thanks for the pics.

 

Would the torque link help with the delay shifting at WOT for autos?

 

It will help with the shift feel, especially if you have increased line pressure by installing a shift kit (aka valve body recalibration) or by unplugging the Dropping Resistor. You will be much more "in tune" with your vehicle as a whole. Your throttle response will increase and it will be easier to predict how the car is going to respond when you get on and off the throttle.

Can you tell me more about what you mean by "delay shifting"?

If you are experiencing a delayed shift when manually shifting, that may be mostly due to the Transmission Control Module taking control of WHEN the shift occurs. If you shift manually, then the actual shift should occur a few hundred rpm after you've put the selector in the next gear. Also, if you leave the automatic shift selector in "Drive", then the TCM will shift automatically for you at the proper shift points.

If you are experiencing a slow, smooth, and 'stock feeling' shift, then you will want to firm up those shifts by increasing your line pressure. Regardless, you will greatly benefit from having this Engine Torque Link installed.

 

The delay shifting acts like the new cvt tranny. It just stays at the redline for awhile before shifting.

This is a link of what it kinda does but it last a little longer. I leave mine in Drive and it still does it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3pN2...eature=related

 

If it bounces off the rev limiter if you leave it in Drive, then that is the TCM allowing that to happen. I don't think this is normal though even if the tires are spinning like in the video you posted. It appears he was manually shifting and that was the reason for the rev limiter being hit.

The stock automatic is not going to shift as soon as you manually shift the selector from 1 to 2. It will take a few hundred rpm to happen just as happened in this video. Watch when he shifts into 2nd gear too late, which caused him to hit the limiter.

Also, if you leave it in D and it tends to stay near redline for a second too long, this could be mostly due to the tires spinning and the stock TCM will shift when it's the right time. Or it could be due to a slipping transmission. But the video you posted was due to the person manually shifting the transmission too late as well as the tires spinning a tad near the top of 1st gear. Other than that, that particular transmission shifted normally and didn't show any signs of slippage.

If you would like the TCM to respond faster, you will need to bypass it and perhaps go with a Suprastick SSv4 (standalone TCM). It shifts pretty instant for me.

The Engine Torque Link will drastically improve shift feel and throttle response, but it will not change the electronic shift points set in the TCM or the slight delay after you manually shift.

Please let me know if you have any more questions.

 

I just installed the Torque Link today. I like it alot. Shift feel is better, the car feels more connected somehow. I just set it tight, I didnt really crank it down or anything. I think I may tinker with it some and see what I like best.

Yet another great NWP product


BTW, I bought my TL from Tookrzy4u, who actually bought it from Roy (Rroderiques), Roy had it powdercoated and its still holding up nicely. It looks like Rochesters except the large mount wasnt powder coated.

 

Thank you.

 

The NWP Engine Torque Link Kits are now back in stock.

Please see this thread for more details:
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...now-stock.html

 

No problem

Btw, soon after I made my first post I went outside and tightened it up. Its pretty cool watching you engine move. lol. Once it was tightened down more I like it that much more. There is more vibration at idle but nothing major. The most vibration noticed as an AT is at a stop light/sign in gear but thats not big deal either.

Also, when my car was cold my exhaust (cattman 3") would vibrate over the rear beam, especially around 2000 RPMs and that's now gone

This is definatley worth the money.

 

So I was finally able to install this piece in today, and I can confidently say I'm loving it. I have the ES MMs already and this assists in reducing the slop of the front end. The motor feels in place, connected with the car, and as a result everything feels better. Acceleration, shifting, rev matches, engine braking, and as I believe Rochester mentioned, there was a engine note change...which is a nice bonus. I know I am late to the party, but another solid product from NWP.

Worth the money, and I haven't even tinkered with the adjustment of the torque link yet.

 

I agree zero2sixtyZ. It's hard to explain how having a properly braced engine can improve all the things you mentioned.

One thing I am certain of ... you will have a big smile on your face after connecting the Engine Torque Link. If you don't, then contact me to arrange a return with a 100% refund including shipping costs! That's how certain I am that you will be happy with this product.

 

Just placed my order!

 

Thank you. Your package will ship today via USPS Priority Mail. You should have it by this Wed or Thurs. You will receive an email confirmation this afternoon with further information.

 

Looking forward to getting it!

 

I see you got your package in only 2 days. I hope you like it!

 

Got it installed, and It's a really nice mod. It does transmit some interesting valvetrain and gearbox (5 speed) noise, but it's subtle and I actually like hearing it. The engine feels "snugger" if I tighten it down more forward than just in it's central sitting position or more rearward towards the firewall. Maybe it's that way because the motor mounts are old and a little squishy, so I might upgrade to poly mounts.

 

Thank you. I agree that tightening down the engine downward and towards the front of the car is better than moving it towards the firewall, which raises it higher.

And having good motor mounts is always a good thing. It's not needed to do this modification unless your mounts are completely broken and there is a lot of metal to metal banging going on. But the ultimate setup would be to have this Engine Torque Link installed along with polyurethane motor mounts.

 

well said. picked mine up tuesday and installed it that night (intake spacers this weekend!) and i have to say i loved it. i have an 02 6MT HLSD and i have experience very bad wheel hop. since i put this on nothing. i tried taking off slow then WOT, and even dropping my clutch at 3 and 4k.... NOTHING. no more violent wheel hop. that in itself made the product worth it to me.

thanks NWP

 

I noticed something odd with my car a week ago or so, the engine was no longer feeling braced the way it was when I first installed the torque link. I needed to further tighten down the link a lot, and even then there is still a bit of slop in the drivetrain reminiscent of before installing the link. The link itself looks just fine, and all mounting bolts are fully intact. I checked over my ES motor mount bushings and they look fine, so I suspect that either my front passenger side engine mount is shot, or the transmission mount is letting go. I'll be replacing the passenger side mount as soon as I receive it, and if that doesn't clear up the issue the transmission mount will be next.

 

Thank you for that review. This Engine Torque Link should make it much easier for you to predict when you will lose traction during a launch due to having less wheel hop.

What happens when you tighten down the torque link and tighten the engine down lower and towards the front of the car? You should be squeezing down that front (passenger side) engine mount making it move less. Regardless if your front engine mount is completely broken or not, the engine should not move at all. Well, not nearly as much as it did before. It is possible the transmission mounts are on the way out.

If you are an automatic, have someone put the car in D, hold down firmly on the brake, and give it a little gas while you watch how much the engine twists. Be sure to stand to the side of the car so the person doesn't accidentally run you over. Then disconnect the torque link and try again and notice how much more then engine moves. You may see excessive movement coming from the transmission side due to broken mounts.

If you are a manual, then you'll need to carefully inspect the mounts to see if the rubber is torn away from the mount. You can rev the engine while in neutral and see how much the engine moves with and without the torque link. But, it won't be as good of a test as if you had an automatic. The real test is when you are actually racing the car.

 

If I remember correctly I currently have the motor pulled toward the front of the car, and the link is almost fully tightened at this point. I've looked at the mounts, but it's very difficult to tell which of them is the culprit, as I can't see any signs of tearing with the mounts in place.

I decided to replace the passenger mount first, as I can order that one for a much lower cost from Ebay than I had to pay for the transmission mount from Nissan.

 

Ok. If you have the torque link as tight as it will go in one direction, then that engine mount is probably shot. It definitely is possible for the front mount to be in such bad condition that it's hard to take full advantage of the torque link.

If you don't mind, let me know how things go when you replace that mount.

Thanks.

 

I've been following this. And I'm feeling like a kid in a candy store. First things first tho..Aaron be looking to hear from me soon.

 

No problem. Let me know if there is anything I can do.

 

No problem at all, as soon as I get the mount installed I'll update in this thread. I think the mount took a real pounding one time when I let my brother drive my car. He had no feel for the clutch release point whatsoever, and was just dropping the clutch in his shifts with the engine up around 6000rpm. The loud bangs and slams that ensued had me angry enough that I was just about ready to scream at him. Sure enough the car didn't quite feel the same after that. The torque mount worked great at first when I installed it, but I think that one or both of the passenger/transmission mount need replacing.

Upon further shopping, I see there are aftermarket transmission mounts available at a reasonable cost, so I may grab one of those as well.

 

Ouch! I hope you told him nicely to just pull the car over and let you drive. But if the rubber is already mostly torn or separated from the metal, then driving very aggressively can definitely cause it to tear completely and the car won't be the same after that until it's fixed.

 

So if you add the NWP torque links and also the energy suspension motor mounts then the engine should NOT move at all right?

 

Yes, that will be the ultimate setup without going with solid metal engine mounts. But it's ok if you have stock rubber engine mounts when you install the Engine Torque Link. You'll still notice a HUGE performance gain.

 

As promised I am back with the results from changing out my upper passenger side engine mount. After an arduous removal process (rounded off a nut on the bottom of the mount) I was able to install my ebay mount. The car feels much better now as a result. I am once again able to tighten down the NWP brace a few turns to brace the engine instead of having to almost completely tighten it. The old mount was in pretty rough shape, as the thinner rubber on the inside of the mount had torn away, and there were also some tears in the thicker rubber portions as well.