Is it possible to remove the axle without removing the tie rod nut?

I was trying to remove the nut with a wrench because that was the only thing that would fit between the tie rod and the axle and my wrench just ended up stripping the hex portion of the nut. So it seems the only way that nut is coming off is being cut off which I don't have the tools for.

So that being the case I need to know if it possible to remove the axle spline out of the hub without having the tie rod disconnected. I know you may be thinking why not just try it, and the reason is because not everything is disassembled that far. I don't want to remove all the nuts and bolts if I can't do it without the tie rod separated.

If I can't do it with the tie rod connected then I'm screwed and have to pay a stupid shop for the labor to install an axle.

anyhow, thanks in advance. And if you have any other suggestions I welcome them as well.

 

i took the axles out before. you don't need to mess with the tie rods.

 

Why would you remove the tie rods?

All you need to remove are the strut-knuckle bolts, then you can slip the axle right out.


Wait, it sounds like you're referring to the balljoint, not the tie rod end. You don't need to remove that either.

When you've got the axle out, I'd replace that damaged nut, personally.

 

I posted in another topic and I hope to get a call back today from the nissan service guy. I have a passnger side axle seal possible leak. Is this something I can get in and do myself? Also does anyone have any pictures on the 5.5 doing this? I swore the guy told me rear axle seal but I believe pmohr told me there was no such thing as a "Rear" axle seal. Where would be the best place to buy a passenger axle seal?

Sorry to thread hijack but since its on topic and near the area the OP is talking about I figured I'd ask.

 

Ok that’s probably a good idea to replace the nut.* I was able to get up early and remove the axle from the car.* It was actually really easy.* It only took me 45 minutes from jacking the car up to pulling the axle out.* So I was happy about that.* However, now the difficult part is finding a store that has the passenger axle (I can’t believe that the dealership wants $550 for the axle!!!).* Luckily I was able to find a Kragen that has both a new axle and also a remanufactured axle.* Which would you guys suggest I purchase?* Both have a lifetime warranty.* The only difference is the reman’d is $4 more as long as I have the core exchange.
I’ve been reading through the various threads people have made about axles and it seems there is always someone who has a problem with one type of axle over another.* But it also seemed like the reman’d kragen worked for most people.

 

If you have Oreilly Auto Parts, they have both in brand new lifetime warranty for about $70 each. I just installed them in my '00.

 

got mine from advance, $70

 

Its replaceable and it's not too difficult to do. The only real problem I had was that I wasn't able to get it to go in perfectly straight at first. I didn't use the Nissan tool. I had to tap it in various places to straighten it out after I got it into the housing part way. The hardest part was getting the axle out of the carrier as it had rusted badly after 7 years and 110000 miles.
Here's to hoping it doesn't leak. If it does, I'll just have to get under the car and change it again, with the proper tool this time.

Also, get a seal puller. Scratching the housing can cause it to leak. I used a screwdriver and pried it out but I don't think I damaged anything. You can't see the sealing surface from under the car very well so I'm making that judgment based exclusively on feel.

 

Well the guy I talked to at Kragen made a mistake. The axles they have are for the automatic tranny.

So I'm stuck with waiting for autozone to get a reman'd duralast passenger axle in.


Here's another question though. I really think that it's just my inner CV joint that separated. Can I just replace the CV joint and forget about buying a new axle? Is that even an option?

 

Good info. I'm going to see if a local shop can help out with this seeming as I have a $100 gift certificate to them. I know they have a lift and I heard the seal itself was like 20 bucks or something. Do you know where there are places online to purchase an axle seal? I'm sure I'll just go google it but I would want to get one from a vender on here or a specific site that sponsers us. Anyhow good enough, I'll have to make sure the shop has a seal puller.

Also, I know the saying if it aint broke dont fix it, but are there any other DIY parts that dont break the bank that while one is in this area I can upgrade or enhance? Also would it be a good idea to do the driver side seal or this doesnt really matter? I just want to make sure that since I'll be in the area to make sure I get certain things taken care of and the driver seal too if it could be done as well.


hacim105 im just trying not to take up topic space, sorry for being all over your post here.

 

I just bought the seal from my local autozone. It's not an expensive part so I saw no reason to call Dave B for it. I don't think you need to ask the shop if it has good tools. If its a reputable shop, it should be able to remove the seal without scratching the housing. While you've got someone under the car, you could change a bunch of things like the O2 sensor, headers, the car, the exhaust, do a strut upgrade, etc. You need to figure out what needs to be replaced and if your interested in modifying your car, what will give the results you want. Modifying things just because you are under the car is the wrong motivation for doing something. Lastly, don't bother changing the driver side seal unless it is actually leaking. Like you said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. AFAIK, the seals are not maintenance items, they get replaced during an axle swap or if they are leaking. That is all.

 

Fair enough I'll stop by autozone and they'll have a 6 spd axle seal for an 03 maxima? Sounds easy enough. I've done enough upgrades, I just didnt know if there were other "small things" to upgrade while im in there. I'll just use the $100 gift certificate to have them do the work. It's saving a little then paying 240 for the dealership to do it. Thanks for the help bro. Sounds good about not replacing the other seal - if its not broke dont fix it. Thanks again

 

Yes, they will have the seal. I don't think they are symmetrical so make sure you ask for the passenger side seal.

Good luck

 

Are you sure is the rear right axle seal? Do you see any oily stains on the inner rimm? any oily stains on the garage floor? I had a situation with oily stains that drove crazy trying to find the source so I went to the dealer and they said it was the rear right suspension bushing and it would need to have the rear suspension dropped total cost $1400 needless to say I said thank you and ran out. I'm still thinking about my options, any suggestions?

 

You are talking about something completely different. It seems that you have a sealed bearing that ruptured where as I'm talking about a shaft seal for the transmission. Mine was not leaking but I replaced it because they are only supposed to be used once.

 

They're not really one time use seals, they can be used indefinitely assuming they aren't damaged during axle installation/removal.

 

Eh, well I wish I had realized that when I took the axle out. Installing the new ones correctly isn't easy.

Would you happen to know where to get the Nissan install tool?

Also, would you happen to know where to get the correct axle for my car? The auto parts stores have given me the auto axle twice already.

 

Needle in a haystack. Your best bet is car-part.com or the classifieds on here, or a partout.

You can just use a regular seal driver to drive it in. A socket of the appropriate diameter also works pretty well.

 

Ugh, if I had known it was going to be this difficult I wouldn't have taken my car apart. I might have to rebuild the one I've got. The needle bearings looked like they were in good shape.

I used a 32mm socket to drive the seal in but ended up tearing the protruding rubber portion. The part that forms a seal with the "cap" on the shaft. It doesn't seal in the transmission fluid so I'm just going to take my chances.

 

Well I popped the inner cv joint back in. Everything looks ok. It wasn't fully separated so I just lightly tapped it with my mallet a few times and it went back into socket.

Do you think I would be ok just refilling the grease that fell out when I slid the boot back, rather than buying a whole new axle?

 

I'm no expert but what's to lose? If it fails, you just have to go back down there and change it again.

 

How big of a problem is a possible small leak? Thats what the Nissan Service Rep told me. Is this something that should be done like tomorrow like deal or can I wait a month? Because 240 is expensive....I know I NEED to do it. I also need to get that damn rear passenger ABS sensor back in. Maybe I'll call them and ask them to put a package together or something. This is like a car payment...sigh.

 

I'd say its not a big deal if you take care of it promptly. Unfortunately, I do not believe the manual trans has a dip stick so you'd have no warning of impending doom should your fluid level drop too low. I'd say just get it fixed ASAP. The price of a new transmission will have you kicking yourself in the ***** if you procrastinate.

What is 240, the cost of the fix with the shop? If you do it yourself you'd only have to pay for the seal and the new CV. That should save you over 100 dollars.

As I am also finding out, car maintenance is expensive. Unfortunately I only work during the summer and don't make all that much cash. I'm still a student.....
At least I own my car outright though.