Good Deal on I35?
08-26-2009, 09:39 PM
#1
Good Deal on I35?
Hello,
I am looking into buying a 2003 Silver I35 with tan interior. It has about 98,000 miles and has the following options.
Moonroof
CD Changer
Wood Trim Steering Wheel
Heated Seats
There guy bought it from a lease one year later, and the car is in good condition. From what I see, the car doesn't look like it was in any accident or has been repainted. The guy is asking for $8,000. Let me know what you guys think and how much you guys purchased your cars for.
Also, what common problems do these cars have? So I know what to look for when looking at the car. Thanks.
I am looking into buying a 2003 Silver I35 with tan interior. It has about 98,000 miles and has the following options.
Moonroof
CD Changer
Wood Trim Steering Wheel
Heated Seats
There guy bought it from a lease one year later, and the car is in good condition. From what I see, the car doesn't look like it was in any accident or has been repainted. The guy is asking for $8,000. Let me know what you guys think and how much you guys purchased your cars for.
Also, what common problems do these cars have? So I know what to look for when looking at the car. Thanks.
08-26-2009, 10:03 PM
#3
FWIW, I acquired my '02 I35 with 123k miles for under 5k...which was well below the asking price thanks to my negotiation skills 
. An $8k ask sounds like a low $7k take and $6k-something take if you got cash in hand.
On the other hand, stuff I've replaced due to verified problems (as opposed to general wear & tear / scheduled maintenance):
- Radiator fans ($100, eBay aftermarket)
- Radiator ($140, Koyo aftermarket)
- Oil pan & bolts ($100, OEM)
- EVAP carbon canister & control valve ($260, OEM)
These replacements directly repaired my overheating, oil leak, and 'gross fuel leak' issues, as far as I can tell.
That said, make sure no codes are thrown (even pending), monitors are all ready, oily oil pan and control arms, and general condition of fluids (oil, trans, coolant, PS). As far as leaks are concerned, my oil pan would leak oil only after the car was running for a while, so check for leaks before & after a decent-length test drive.
Don't do like me and assume that just because the tires needed replacement that they were to blame for poor ride quality! That's what I've been battling since purchasing!
. An $8k ask sounds like a low $7k take and $6k-something take if you got cash in hand.On the other hand, stuff I've replaced due to verified problems (as opposed to general wear & tear / scheduled maintenance):
- Radiator fans ($100, eBay aftermarket)
- Radiator ($140, Koyo aftermarket)
- Oil pan & bolts ($100, OEM)
- EVAP carbon canister & control valve ($260, OEM)
These replacements directly repaired my overheating, oil leak, and 'gross fuel leak' issues, as far as I can tell.
That said, make sure no codes are thrown (even pending), monitors are all ready, oily oil pan and control arms, and general condition of fluids (oil, trans, coolant, PS). As far as leaks are concerned, my oil pan would leak oil only after the car was running for a while, so check for leaks before & after a decent-length test drive.
Don't do like me and assume that just because the tires needed replacement that they were to blame for poor ride quality! That's what I've been battling since purchasing!
Last edited by ridinwitha35; 08-26-2009 at 10:07 PM.
08-27-2009, 04:49 AM
#4
No dice!!
I wouldnt invest $8 on a 6yr old car w/100k on the speedo!
With so many people dumping cars b/c they cant make payments, if you got $8k to spend your in control 100% and no one is letting you walk away with $8k cash in hand, JUST SAYIN!!!
Bad investment!
I wouldnt invest $8 on a 6yr old car w/100k on the speedo!
With so many people dumping cars b/c they cant make payments, if you got $8k to spend your in control 100% and no one is letting you walk away with $8k cash in hand, JUST SAYIN!!!
Bad investment!
08-27-2009, 12:21 PM
#5
What would be some good ways to bargain the price down. I am thinking about asking for about $7,000 and working my way up. What do you guys think? I will take a ramp and check under the car to see if there are any problems down there.
08-27-2009, 02:33 PM
#6
I would bring cash (55 of those Benji's) and hold firm!!
You can find new lower mileage car if you just realize you control the deal!
Im telling you bro, I just got some G35 18's w/tires (althou 2 were trashed) from a guy that SWORE UP AND DOWN he wasnt moving off $600 after wanting $700 originally. I drove away with them for $400!
You can find new lower mileage car if you just realize you control the deal!
Im telling you bro, I just got some G35 18's w/tires (althou 2 were trashed) from a guy that SWORE UP AND DOWN he wasnt moving off $600 after wanting $700 originally. I drove away with them for $400!
08-28-2009, 10:37 AM
#7
I would bring cash (55 of those Benji's) and hold firm!!
You can find new lower mileage car if you just realize you control the deal!
Im telling you bro, I just got some G35 18's w/tires (althou 2 were trashed) from a guy that SWORE UP AND DOWN he wasnt moving off $600 after wanting $700 originally. I drove away with them for $400!
You can find new lower mileage car if you just realize you control the deal!
Im telling you bro, I just got some G35 18's w/tires (althou 2 were trashed) from a guy that SWORE UP AND DOWN he wasnt moving off $600 after wanting $700 originally. I drove away with them for $400!
08-28-2009, 11:07 AM
#8
$8000 is too much. +2000 more miles than you need 100K maintenance serivce. Either make up an excuse say its gonna cost alot for the service or ask him to take it to the dealership for the service. Start at $7000 and work your way DOWN, not up.
Good luck!
Good luck!
08-28-2009, 01:14 PM
#9
Shouldn't it be the other way around? If you start at 7k, that says you're actually willing to pay that much. Who cares if you actually can or not, what's important is what you're willing to pay. Always start lower - just don't go into low-ball territory or people won't take you seriously.
08-28-2009, 02:01 PM
#10
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Shouldn't it be the other way around? If you start at 7k, that says you're actually willing to pay that much. Who cares if you actually can or not, what's important is what you're willing to pay. Always start lower - just don't go into low-ball territory or people won't take you seriously.
08-28-2009, 02:31 PM
#11
08-28-2009, 06:07 PM
#12
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Well bra I hear ya, I'm in the industry and have been for 15 years, so yes it still does mean something.......... Always will to an extent and unless you are very desperate most people stick to close to what its worth either being pvt sale or retail.........I'm just sayin!
Last edited by MONTE 01&97 SE; 08-28-2009 at 06:10 PM.
08-28-2009, 06:17 PM
#13
yea if you go cash in hand, your deff at an advantage. Stay away from things like " i gotta have this car", seem interested but not obsessed. Dont bring 8k with you, and dont flash your cash untill youve made a deal. Make it sem like you really know what your buying, and call out any BS, and anything that seems the least bit fishy.
08-28-2009, 06:34 PM
#14
Well bra I hear ya, I'm in the industry and have been for 15 years, so yes it still does mean something.......... Always will to an extent and unless you are very desperate most people stick to close to what its worth either being pvt sale or retail.........I'm just sayin!
Yea tell that to the dude w/the $450 car payment thats 75 days past due
No ones gonna give that guy more then $6k tops for that car and YOU KNOW IT!!!
KBB my azz
People are taking whateva then can get, thats the only point I was making! And just to back up my statement, have you been to a pawn shop lately? There alot of big diamonds, highend power tools, & rolex watches in that joint!! And we all know the pawn shops aint giving you jack for NOTHING......
08-28-2009, 06:43 PM
#15
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Yea tell that to the dude w/the $450 car payment thats 75 days past due
No ones gonna give that guy more then $6k tops for that car and YOU KNOW IT!!!
KBB my azz
People are taking whateva then can get, thats the only point I was making! And just to back up my statement, have you been to a pawn shop lately? There alot of big diamonds, highend power tools, & rolex watches in that joint!! And we all know the pawn shops aint giving you jack for NOTHING......
No ones gonna give that guy more then $6k tops for that car and YOU KNOW IT!!!
KBB my azz
People are taking whateva then can get, thats the only point I was making! And just to back up my statement, have you been to a pawn shop lately? There alot of big diamonds, highend power tools, & rolex watches in that joint!! And we all know the pawn shops aint giving you jack for NOTHING......
08-28-2009, 09:28 PM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 388
I bought my I35 at 96k miles for $6100.
Id say offer the guy $6000.
And moonroof really isn't an option. All I35s come with them. cd changer is standard as well. Wood trim is standard as well.
Common problems? Most if not All TSBs for the A33 Maximas apply to the I30s/I35s because both are the same A33 model as far is nissan is concerned. The only major repair ive had is fixing the P0147 O2 Sensor problem, which most A33s have had if you search this or the I35 forum. $500 at your local infiniti dealer to fix. $100 to do it yourself.
Have fun, its great to have another I35 on board. Its funny how people are paying more money for Maximas than I35s, look at other threads where guys have asked for maxima buying advice. Our I35s are way nicer without any sacrifices (although i'd love a 6MT)
Id say offer the guy $6000.
And moonroof really isn't an option. All I35s come with them. cd changer is standard as well. Wood trim is standard as well.
Common problems? Most if not All TSBs for the A33 Maximas apply to the I30s/I35s because both are the same A33 model as far is nissan is concerned. The only major repair ive had is fixing the P0147 O2 Sensor problem, which most A33s have had if you search this or the I35 forum. $500 at your local infiniti dealer to fix. $100 to do it yourself.
Have fun, its great to have another I35 on board. Its funny how people are paying more money for Maximas than I35s, look at other threads where guys have asked for maxima buying advice. Our I35s are way nicer without any sacrifices (although i'd love a 6MT)
08-29-2009, 08:45 AM
#17
Thanks for your replies. You made me think about this sale even more. He told me the maintenance on the car has been done at the dealer the whole time. But I tell him that it has a lot of miles and start my price at $6,000 and work my way up. Thanks again and will let you know what happens.
08-29-2009, 02:25 PM
#21
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