How to FIX your DRL
You're in the independent shop LOL.
Specialized shops cost more anyways, in some regards, the dealer is better than a Nissan only shop. Depending on what you're doing, if you're modding, then independent is better, if you're fixing, dealer is better, by comparison.
Specialized shops cost more anyways, in some regards, the dealer is better than a Nissan only shop. Depending on what you're doing, if you're modding, then independent is better, if you're fixing, dealer is better, by comparison.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2
From: Calgary, Alberta
I picked up a 01 Maxima last week and the DRLs weren't working. There's another thread with the location of the module and I was able to get it out of the car no problem. Getting the friggin thing out of the case was another story. I had to solder 3 points on it, but got it back in the car and thought maybe I didn't do it right because the DRLs still didn't come on. Then I found this thread and the gentleman who found out that the parking brake has to be disengaged before starting the car. I immediately ran out to the car after reading that to try it and...voila! DRLs working. I love the internet 
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Drl module
Hi,
If someone can help me. I read all your posts. We'll defined. I have a 2001 nissan maxima se with 309,000Km still running strong. I have replaced my DRL module once before bought brand new from dealer $300 expensive. So my Passenger Side High beam doesn't work and my Rear tail light, brake lights dont work on DRL when i press the brake the lights work. So I figure it's my DRL module. I went to the scrap yard managed to get a couple of the DRLs for a great price. I opened one up but don't understand what am i suppose to solder. Can someone reply with a Picture to help me out. That would be awsome, So I can fix my issue.
Thanks
WP
If someone can help me. I read all your posts. We'll defined. I have a 2001 nissan maxima se with 309,000Km still running strong. I have replaced my DRL module once before bought brand new from dealer $300 expensive. So my Passenger Side High beam doesn't work and my Rear tail light, brake lights dont work on DRL when i press the brake the lights work. So I figure it's my DRL module. I went to the scrap yard managed to get a couple of the DRLs for a great price. I opened one up but don't understand what am i suppose to solder. Can someone reply with a Picture to help me out. That would be awsome, So I can fix my issue.
Thanks
WP
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 277
My apologies, I did miss the part about Ebay lights.
Clearly this does change things. From my knowledge of these lights, everything is plug and play. If they got the garbage ones that look like this though, obviously not:
I have to say it, would you ACTUALLY buy something like this after seeing this picture? My dear god. (not speaking to you directly I know you didn't buy them)
Anyways, yes, given the circumstances pictures are needed. do these have HID's?
Do they have the Halo's hooked up, and if so, do they work?
I wouldn't be surprised if it's nothing to do with your wiring then. It could be the wiring in the headlight. These aren't exactly made for Canadian models (DRL equipped), or it's something they just didn't think about when wiring them.
Either way you still want this fixed and I doubt you feel like buying new headlights to acheive that.
So here you go, with your apparent knowledge, and this information below, you should have no issue finding and fixing the problem. I'm quite familiar with these cars, the FSM, the harnesses and location, as well as wiring and electronics, and the DRL system. So please don't hold back with any questions after this post. And do post pictures of the fiasco you have going on.
(I assume youve checked the fuses right?)
If your fuses are good, carry on here:
To make this a bit easier, do this. UNPLUG both headlights harnesses, should still be an H4 harness same as OEM. Here's the terminal designation:
You want the one that has E36 written next to it. That's the headlight harness. Test the following terminals using that harness diagram:
Check if you have power at terminal #3 on the Right side (passenger), by using an incandecent test light. Hook the negative clamp to CHASSIS ground (battery Negative is good too) when checking.
If she lights up nice and bright (12+ volts), then you want to install the ground clip into terminal #1 on the Right side light. You're now making the test light the headlight. If it lights up things are good so far. At this point, you will need another test light (incandecent).
LEAVE THE TEST LIGHT IN THE HARNESS ON THE RIGHT (PASSENGER) SIDE.
Then test again on the LEFT side (driver side). Install ground to battery negative (chassis), and check for power at terminal #3 on the LEFT harness.
hopefully this happens:
The test light illuminates, but is dim (half voltage), when it dims, the test light you have in place on the right side should dim also.
If this happens, then all you have to do is remove the ground clamp from the negative terminal on the battery, and hook it into terminal #1 on the LEFT (drivers) side harness. This simply tests the ground side of the circuit. The lights should light back up at half intensity once connected.
If everything I just got you to test went as I said, and is working, now you know that the issue is the HEADLIGHTS, NOT the OEM wiring or DRL module.
NOTE: Anytime you're dealing with aftermarket components, especially one that alters the wiring so much, you need to isolate the aftermarket and OEM components first.
P.S. YOU MUST USE TWO INCANDECENT TEST LIGHTS FOR THIS TEST. A MULTIMETER WILL NOT WORK, NOR WILL AN LED TEST LIGHT.
IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE TEST LIGHT, YOU COULD INSTALL A KNOWN GOOD H4 BULB INTO THE HARNESS ON THE RIGHT SIDE AFTER TESTING THE RIGHT SIDE TO REPLACE THE TEST LIGHT SO YOU CAN USE IT ON THE LEFT SIDE
AND THUSLY GET AWAY WITH JUST ONE TEST LIGHT.
let me know how you make out dude. I attatched a few more things for you just in case:
Clearly this does change things. From my knowledge of these lights, everything is plug and play. If they got the garbage ones that look like this though, obviously not:
I have to say it, would you ACTUALLY buy something like this after seeing this picture? My dear god. (not speaking to you directly I know you didn't buy them)
Anyways, yes, given the circumstances pictures are needed. do these have HID's?
Do they have the Halo's hooked up, and if so, do they work?
I wouldn't be surprised if it's nothing to do with your wiring then. It could be the wiring in the headlight. These aren't exactly made for Canadian models (DRL equipped), or it's something they just didn't think about when wiring them.
Either way you still want this fixed and I doubt you feel like buying new headlights to acheive that.
So here you go, with your apparent knowledge, and this information below, you should have no issue finding and fixing the problem. I'm quite familiar with these cars, the FSM, the harnesses and location, as well as wiring and electronics, and the DRL system. So please don't hold back with any questions after this post. And do post pictures of the fiasco you have going on.
(I assume youve checked the fuses right?)
If your fuses are good, carry on here:
To make this a bit easier, do this. UNPLUG both headlights harnesses, should still be an H4 harness same as OEM. Here's the terminal designation:
You want the one that has E36 written next to it. That's the headlight harness. Test the following terminals using that harness diagram:
Check if you have power at terminal #3 on the Right side (passenger), by using an incandecent test light. Hook the negative clamp to CHASSIS ground (battery Negative is good too) when checking.
If she lights up nice and bright (12+ volts), then you want to install the ground clip into terminal #1 on the Right side light. You're now making the test light the headlight. If it lights up things are good so far. At this point, you will need another test light (incandecent).
LEAVE THE TEST LIGHT IN THE HARNESS ON THE RIGHT (PASSENGER) SIDE.
Then test again on the LEFT side (driver side). Install ground to battery negative (chassis), and check for power at terminal #3 on the LEFT harness.
hopefully this happens:
The test light illuminates, but is dim (half voltage), when it dims, the test light you have in place on the right side should dim also.
If this happens, then all you have to do is remove the ground clamp from the negative terminal on the battery, and hook it into terminal #1 on the LEFT (drivers) side harness. This simply tests the ground side of the circuit. The lights should light back up at half intensity once connected.
If everything I just got you to test went as I said, and is working, now you know that the issue is the HEADLIGHTS, NOT the OEM wiring or DRL module.
NOTE: Anytime you're dealing with aftermarket components, especially one that alters the wiring so much, you need to isolate the aftermarket and OEM components first.
P.S. YOU MUST USE TWO INCANDECENT TEST LIGHTS FOR THIS TEST. A MULTIMETER WILL NOT WORK, NOR WILL AN LED TEST LIGHT.
IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE TEST LIGHT, YOU COULD INSTALL A KNOWN GOOD H4 BULB INTO THE HARNESS ON THE RIGHT SIDE AFTER TESTING THE RIGHT SIDE TO REPLACE THE TEST LIGHT SO YOU CAN USE IT ON THE LEFT SIDE
AND THUSLY GET AWAY WITH JUST ONE TEST LIGHT.
let me know how you make out dude. I attatched a few more things for you just in case:
The ones in the first post also dont show.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Hey! Great write-up. It seems that it would solve the exact problem that I'm having.
Is there any chance that those pictures could be re-posted? or perhaps emailed if someone has a copy?
I'm desperate and I don't want to spend 270 + tax to fix this issue.
Please please please
Is there any chance that those pictures could be re-posted? or perhaps emailed if someone has a copy?
I'm desperate and I don't want to spend 270 + tax to fix this issue.
Please please please
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 5
From: Alberta
Just did the DRL on 03 maxima. Easiest (and cheapest) thing ive fixed on this awesome but horrendously abused car yet! Helps that ive soldered many bad joints on cordless battery charger in the past...
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