well to my luck, after the installation of my headers i am now throwing these codes P0300, P1122, P0057, P0223, P0213 i must add that i do not have any o2 simulator so im pretty sure one of those codes is for o2 sensor, the major reason im posting is because on a regular drive, the car will sputter for a while then catches itself then acts fine and it will do this simultaniously unless im at WOT and im probebly getting 10MPG

 

Probably a dumb question but did you reset the codes after you installed the headers?

 

no sr... i dont have a deep 10 socket to undo my negative terminal

 

:metalmax:

 

the ses would come back on cause he doesnt have an o2 sim

you dont need to unhook the battery, do it this way..

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

 

lol...

 

I've seen that procedure before but it never worked for me... i know my light wouldnt come off but i just wish it helped with daily driving... we have a dyno day today that i wont be attending because of this

 

it is about timing, however, i got it to work most of the time on the 1st time. when my o2 sim died, i had a ses for like a yr...lol. once i got the new one, i bought a cheap obd-II scanner on amazon for like 60bux. keep it in the car, seems like since i got it the ses light never comes on

 

Um what dyno day?

 

down by ISP... nobody spread the word, ghey **** curtis prolly got some of his honda boys and called up jason... mike is heading up there too

 

i know how that goes

 

Nice. I might head down there since I have nothing else to do.

 

wooow!

 

so i take it that reseting the ECU will take care of some of the codes???

 

nope, the ses may go off for a few hrs or a day, but until you fix the problem, that yellow sob with be on for good!

 

hahaha.. im use to the SES, but what would be the reason to reset the ECU??? i just wanted to get rid of the bogging the light can stay on if it want... or get rid of one of the codes???

 

you reset the ecu after you fix all the problems so the ses wont come back on. the only time for me that it came on and i reset it was for a random engine misfire, and it never came back on. for major issues like evap and o2 sensors, a simple reset wont do it.

 

honestly i dont know what the codes even stood for... i believe i did get some kinda misfire code though

 

p0300 is random engine misfire

 

oh ... cool i guess ill reset it then

 

but u will have 4 other codes

 

P0300 - is the code for misfire detected.
P1122 - Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem
P0057 - Bank 2 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Low
P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0213 - Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction

Only one of the codes appears to be related to the 02 Oxygen sensor, most of the code are related to the Throttle related issues, which would explain your sputtering and crappy mpg

 

o.k my first noob question (even though ive been on here so long) which one of the plugs is cyl 1??? no flaming, yes i should've know lol

 

Firewall
#1 #3 #5
#2 #4 #6
front of car

Have you also checked your fuel injectors, as I have read you may not have a misfire at the cylinder it could be a bad fuel injector, which as I said you have several throttle codes which would lead me to think bad fuel injection

 

how would i be able to tell if one is bad???

 

sputtering is most likely do to a bad coil i had the same issue when my coils went bad. The car would sputter and shake kind of while at idle but while accelerating or at WOT it was fine. I'm gonna say you need to change out your ignition coils might as well do them all since a lot of time when one goes bad the rest start to crap out later. You should also replace your plugs when doing this.

 

i just replaced my plugs about 2-3 weeks ago damn plugs cost me $60, there was no code for coils... must i add the sputtering normally accur a lil after the car warms up, idk if that says anything

 

any way to tell if its the injector harness that is bad??? i just dont get how it just went like that all the sudden

 

how did that work out being that you have to remove the upper intake to replace the plugs? Is the gasket made of rubber or the cork kind? Im concerned about this because I dont want to damage anything while changing plus and get a intake leak that I cant find later on down the line.

 

^^ naw its made of some kind of metal... it will be fine, i've probebly removed my IM about 30 times literally... two bolt to remove will be a biatch lol

 

i'd still love all the help i can get, my problem is still there

 

so my problem has been on going for about a week now (seems like a year) i tried to get it to a reputable shop today, (they/He/owner was busy doing a VQ35 motor on a 350z) so they set an appointment for me on monday at 3pm... anyways if i dont have to pay to diagnose a problem that you guys can probebly and most likely help me with i'd rather use the $75 on the actual problem... anyways, my CEL flashes when i drive while its sputtering and when it kinda catches itself then the CEL would stay solid... while im driving at low speeds it sputters and stuggle to move, after certain RPMs it will just kick like i got nitrous and act regular, if i go from a dead stop and WOT it runs fine, if im driving at low speeds then floor the pedal it sputters at the low speed and as soon as i floor it all is fine... while its sputtering there would be some kinda ticking sound (sound like paper in a fan coming from the Y-pipe area)... thats as much as i think i can explain, i'd like to know what is the symptoms for sputtering so i can try and help myself... thanks in advance