After completing the Yahoo search and finding some threads related to earlier year Maxima's, I would like some help from someone who has specifically dealt with replacing the Evap Canistor & Vent Control Valve in a 5th generation. I am throwing the following codes...

P0445-Evaporator Canister purge valve volume control solenoid valve circuit short, and P1448-Evaporator Canister control valve open.

These items are expensive at the stealership...
Evaporation Canister is $199.67.
Vent Control Valve is $126.73.

Has anyone replaced one or both (I understand the vent control valve frequently breaks when you try and remove it)?
Is it possable that the canistor is cracked and can be epoxied?
Can someone point me towards a better parts source to save a few bucks?

Thanks for any help you can render. My inspection is just around the corner and it will fail emmisions with these codes...

 

I just did this on my 03SE and it was only a 30min job. The Vent Control Valve (VCV)was fused to the plastic as usual, so both were replaced.

The failure was in the canister to one side of the VCV. There was a crack in the canister out from the screw boss which allowed it to fail the vacuum test. If I had been able to find this crack it could have been sealed wth silicone. I had the same issue with my Altima which was solved with sealant.

I spent the money when I didn't have to but what is done is done.

Canister and VCV were OEM parts as I could not find them in the typical places.

 

So does the EC come out with the VCV attached, or does the VCV have to be removed first causing it to break? Just wondering if it is possable to remove them both as one unit, and inspect the EC for cracks before trying to remove and break the VCV...

Thanks for your initial reply by the way.

 

It will come out as one unit. I tried to salvage the VCV after removal of the EC but its just impossible on mine to break the connection. If I had removed the whole assy first I probably could have seen the crack and saved me the cost.

 

OK, Thanks for your help JollyR. I'll try removing them as one unit, and hope and pray I see a crack that can be fixed.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Hi Seymor,

I removed both units as one. I removed the 3 screws that hold the canister in place first (one broke). Once the screws are out the canister hangs by 2 clips one front and one back (you'll see them). I then unhooked the 3 hoses, and the elect switch at the front of the canister. Once out, I did not find an obvious crack anywhere like I had hoped, so I used an automotive clear silicone to seal anything that looked like a seam, all around the canister and where the vent control valve attaches to the canister. The 2 screws holding that on were rusted as well, so rather than try and remove that I sealed all around it as well although I saw no cracks there either. I then cleaned the contacts for the switch, reinstalled it all. I cleared the codes, and 2 days later the SES light was back. Just minutes ago, I used a friends scanner to recheck the codes and they are the same ones (P0455 Emissions Leak & P1448 Aux Emissions Failure). I erased them but expect them to return. I read somewhere that these codes (or the damage that produces them) can be a result of topping off the tank past where the pump shuts off on it’s own, basically over filling. I had a habit of doing this.

Now I have to find some place other than the stealer-ship to buy the parts. Not sure when I’ll get the new parts in, but when I do I’ll follow up here. Good luck with yours. If you do something that works, please provide an update here.

Thanks… Sorry… no how-to pics. My digi-cam is on the fritz…

 

Did you try swapping out the gas cap with a new one? It was a waste of money for me but I think that should be where you start.

Yes, topping off the tank is a general cause. Even on my 98 Altima it screwed up the canister. I am not sure though the codes would be the same 0455 & 1448 though.

Welcome to hell. The FSM gives plenty of possibilities for 0455 & 1448.

Possible Cause

Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close.

Incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve

Incorrect fuel filler cap used

Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap.

Leak is in line between intake manifold and EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve.

Foreign matter caught in EVAP canister vent control valve.

EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks

EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube) leaks

EVAP purge line rubber tube bent.

Blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor

Loose or disconnected rubber tube

EVAP canister vent control valve and the circuit

EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve and the circuit

Fuel tank temperature sensor

O-ring of EVAP canister vent control valve is missing or damaged.

EVAP control system pressure sensor

Refueling control valve

ORVR system leaks

 

Thanks for the extra info JollyR. Yes... I replaced the fuel cap first, weeks ago as a third code was initially being thrown specific to that problem. I thought it might also get rid of the other codes, but no such luck. It was also the cheapest 1st step in what could be an expensive set of trial and error fixes. Cars today are just way to complicated with so many things to go wrong. I miss my 68' Firebird, it's simplicity, and it's power....

 

Thanks for the good info. I am going to try taking it off Saturday. I already tried the gas cap. Now I am driving an expired Failure sticker so I need it fixed. I'll let you know what happens....pray for a crack! Have fun in the snow tomorrow...

 

Yes... Please keep me updated seymour. I am going to hit the two screws on the vebt control valve with some pentrating oil Sunday. The following weekend I may try and replace that part first.

 

went to local junk yard paid 20 bucks for valve and canister together; guess they didn't know but went home loosened a few screws plus hose connections and whole unit replaced, less than 1/2hr no more codes, works fine. At first replaced the valve which was over $100 dollars then one of the nuts broke off so the vacum seal it needs was gone (codes thrown) so instead of new canister and valve I went to local junk yard was lucky they had the part for 20 dollars another by me quoted $50. Simple replacement. Might be easier to remove drive side rear wheel but I didn't have to.

 

Thanks for the update. That never crossed my mind. I'll check local boneyards if my codes come back. Since I sealed everything, I cleared the codes the manual way and they came right back, since I cleared the codes with a scanner (instead of the manual way) the codes have not returned, and I've got 8 or so trips in since then. I'm thinking the manual way is not clearing all memory and may be a local clearing of the SES light only.
Fingers crossed...

 

Update - Problem Resolved

Nothing available from the boneyards, so I purchased the canister and vent control valve from "Everything Nissan" for $205 shipped. I initially wanted to try replacing just the valve first, to eliminate that as the cause and return the canister if it worked, but as I had heard, both screws broke off when trying to remove them. So, buy both if you are making these repairs.

5 days, and over 12 trips, and no new SES lights, or codes. Fingers crossed...

 

so what does replacing the vent control valve/assembly accomplish? Better gas mileage? Got the same code and attempted to remove the smaller part and broke both screws in the process, so off to the junk yard to see if i can find a vent control canister.

 

Reduction in air pollution. The fumes from the gas tank are not released into the atmosphere, they are sucked into the engine and burned. The canister is filled with charcoal granules that will absorb the fumes when the engine is not running and sucking air in through the canister.

 

ok kool thanks for that explanation ,so it would increase gas mileage then because i seem to be stuck at 22mpg, but a great improvement from when i first bought the car though.

 

remember op post is 11 years old, i had this common issue.. and no parts needed..... just a lot of caulk to close the small evap leak !

i caulked the **** of the the hole thing and even around where the bolts rust off and splice the plastic causing more leaks.

code / ses light went right away, never came back. no new $200 parts

 

gotcha

 

dealing with P0455 again... really dissapointed after replacing everything upfront and still have the code, only thing not recently replaced was gas cap... which isnt suspect since it was replaced 5 years ago for this before I caulked the vent valve....

im worried its an actual leak... or filler neck or something... i dont smell gas at all though...

 

ah will be replacing mine with junkyard parts, lets see how things go

 

I also want to

replace my evap canister vent control valve for my 2003 maxima. My part looks like this.

I cannot find this part online. Vendors say the part will fit my car, yet their part contains no place to put the bolts.

What they sold me and I am returning

I may have to abandon this project.

 

maybe not the right part, but the parts are out there, i just did that one in 2018.

 

This part?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...solenoid,16992

 

So what wrong with it?

 

oh yea let me say this, do not I repeat do not ever order DORMAN EVAP parts. they were trash and did not work to resolve codes. they caused me to have an evap code for a year. when u replace a part, you move on to the next possible causes, and when i did a full circle it ended up being the replaced DORMAN EVAP part. replaced with oem, and code vanished

dont make the same mistake on these pricey evap parts ! it sucks, but i haven't looked back.

 

this Dorman EVAP part that caused all the issues was the EVAP sensor on the top of the engine, not the one back by the canister.