I know a stock max isn't suppose to be like a sports car, but this is sad...







Talking with a couple people and they suspect Coil Packs. But there is no check engine light.

Not sure what else to check. Like 85% of those videos were with my foot to the floor... fyi....

 

woooow!!! im having similar problems too, not as bad, but have you tried checking the injector harness, plugs, coils???

 

well you will def know if it was coil packs because your whole d**m car will smell like rotten eggs...

 

maf?

 

this thread sucks....4 videos which tell us absolutely nothing.

How about a simple description of what is happening. AT or MT. etc.

 

very true we do need more information...

 

Strong counting skills...3 videos...

And automatic, 00, 80k miles

 

Considering the OVERWHELMING amount of knowledge he has I find it somewhat foolish that you're going to mock him over a minor oversight.

 

does the check engine light come on when you turn the car on (key first turned on but car not started)?

 

i suspect a faulty maf. those videos do not convey the problem clearly enough IMO.

 

does it rev up in Neutral? sputter? surge?

 

is it me or does it seem like the check engine light is flashing in the videos?? looks like a maf problem but then again on most maf problems the car should accelerate to 3500 then not go past it. If you know anyone else with a 00 or 01 swap mafs and see if thats it

 

MAF. it is exactly how my car acted

 

wow merging must be a *****

 

F it im in for MAF too

 

when my maf went it also tripped wierdly enough my slip and abs light as well and wouldent rev past like 3500 rpm similar to the video, but if I remember correctly it wouldent shift out of 1st gear either.

 

MAF undoubtedly

 

yupps MAF.

 

probably much more than that..

 

It seems like its in limp mode if it won't get past 3000rpms +1 on the maf

 

DESCRIBE what is happening.

e.g.

"When I'm cruising at 40mph and floor it, the transmission (upshifts, downshifts, does nothing), and the engine (misfires, bogs, does nothing, etc)"

 

Ok... fair enough Irish

So when driving the car, it just doesn't want to move. Like for example I floored it like in the video, the car starts moving rpms go up speed goes up like normal, until like 30mph. The it seems like the car doesn't want to move, like the RPMs are stuck at either 3.5 or 4.5 it won't go any higher than that. I didn't have a chance to check it in park yet, I will do it tomorrow.

There was one time today I stuffed it, the car rpms tops out at 4.5 and then the RPMs start to drop, for no reason, so I cut the gas and it shifts hard.

No misfires
Yes Bogging when driving on highways or flooring it

 

To add this is all prior to the video,

My brother had thick *** mats, which I noticed may have been blocking the pedal from going all the way down. Move it and nothing changed.

He also said it got worse after the battery was changed. Like before the battery was changed you couldn't rev past 4.5 like in the videos. But now it doesn't want to move.

Basically my brothers Max is slower than mine...

 

If the MAF blows, it goes into safe mode where the car will absolutely NOT go over 3500rpms and below that it will bog like crazy.

Usually this is accompanied by an SES light, but I've seen instances where no light was tripped (including when my 2nd MAF blew).

With these extra details, I have almost zero doubt that this is your problem. Call Dave Burnette (1-888-254-6060) for a new MAF - local dealers will rape you on price, he gives a good hook-up to org memebers. You should be able to get one from Dave for around $100 shipped, IIRC.

WHen you get it, handle with care, they're pretty fragile. Install, reset ECU (battery unplug while you install) andyou should be good to go.

I know others already said MAF, but with this extra info, there is little doubt that this is your problem.

 

On a 5.5 gen they are WAY more expensive. I got 10% over cost from the dealer I used to work for and I think it was still like 350$

Edit just saw he had a 2000

 

WOW that car is weak.... how long has he been driving it like that?? I was waiting for you to hit the gas for the whole thing pretty much, didnt realize that was with gas pedal down. +1 for MAF. I didnt even see you barely touched 4k rpms for like a second in all those videos... sad for your brother for sure.

 

Either MAF or a serious exhaust obstruction. When my old 626 got hit from the rear, the acceleration absolutely sucked when I drove it home. Figured out why when I got there. The exhaust tips were bent under the muffler, straightened them out and it accelerated normally again.

 

Torque converter.

 

At the local dealerships, the 5.5 MAFs are about $400.00. I've replaced two MAFs in 5 years, and paid $100.00 each time. A hundred bucks is around the retail price for the 5.0-gen MAFs. You just have to know how to remove the extra copper piece from your 5.5-gen MAF, and relocate it into the 5.0-gen MAF. That copper piece is the only thing that's different between the two MAFs.

 

MAF .. on my old 00 max i had to replace mine a few times...best 100 bucks you will spend... wait till you do it.. it will feel like a brand new car.. lol

 

Good info. Did you ever do a write up on this?

If so link it over or deff create one. It would prob get stickied

I think most everyone has gone through at least one maf

 

It was discussed at length in this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-2k1-maf.html

^ That's linked to in the "Installation Instructions / How-To's / FAQ's / Product Reviews" sticky thread, BTW.

Here's the thermistor that needs to be moved from the 5.5 MAF sensor:



The 5.0 MAF sensor looks exactly like that ^, minus the thermistor.