When turning left and putting load on the right wheel, I get a very noticeable whirring/rotating noise. It only happens when turning left. I have had to replace the wheel bearing on that side a couple of times before and from searching around it seems like it could be the bearing again and by now I should probably get the hub relpaced too.

That sound reasonable? Anyone else have same issue that was fixed? I saw something about possible sway links but am not sure.

 

I'd get the allignment checked by a REALLY good shop you trust too.

 

Not had the problem but may have some input. Was it doing the same thing before you replaced the wheel bearings the first time? Because it could also be the CV joints. Do you have this only then the engine is under load? Do you have it while coasting and turning? Check the CV boots for cracks or leaks.

 

I actually have this same problem. It began about a month or so ago.

OldDude in my situation i get the noise only when giving it gas while making a somewhat tight left turn.

 

I had the same problem last month, feels like the rotors are rubbing against the calipers after turning slightly to the left. Went to go replace the front wheel bearing but realized the wheel bearing was actually spinning on the hub and producing the noise.. hub was heavily damaged and had to be replaced. If you have had your wheel bearings replaced before, replace the hub too when you do it this time.

 

I had my bearings replaced about 7 times within' 9 months. Finally the shop ordered a brand new HUB assembly from the dealership, haven't had an issue since.

Easiest way to tell. Jack that side of the car up. Grab the top part of the wheel and the bottom part of the wheel. Pull one hand and push on the other, if the wheel moves when you do that. It's the HUB.

 

I did the grab and pull and there wasn't the movement there was before when my bearings were bad. That really surprised me. I pulled the wheel off and everything looks fine. No open boots or grease leaking.
When i put the wheel back on and took the car out, the noise was actually worse. Not sure what the problem is now, since there wasn't that play in the wheel.
I get the noise under hardly any load on really slow turns too. Again, really only when I turn left

 

This sounds like CV joint. Wheel bearing noise is often constant where worn CV joints make noise while under load. Get under the car and have a look at the CV boots. If there is any cracking or leakage, this confirms a bad CV joint. Good luck!

 

Wow. Are you sure the noise is coming from the wheel? I know this is a long shot but check your PS fluid level and check the PS pump for signs of a fluid leak. If the PS fluid low, the PS pump is gonna groan when you move the wheel (but not just to one side, thus the long shot). How many miles on your car?

 

Yeah, it's def the wheel. Like i said it got worse once i removed the wheel and put it back on. I have 115k on the Max.

 

I'd replace the hub along with the bearing. CV joints would make a clicking noise (from what I understand) while turning because of wear in the "rzeppa joint" (what's inside the boot). Try lightly swerving the car (on a safe road/area of course) and listen to see if the noise changes. It should come and go as you move left/right. I had a car in the shop last week for the same noise and I replaced the hub and the bearing and problem solved. A bad hub can cause the bearing to fail prematurely and in most cases it's best to replace them together. A whirring or groan type of noise a lot of times is associated with a bearing. I'd say hub/bearing together.

EDIT: You also mentioned something about end links...since end links don't rotate with the wheel you can probably rule that out. If they were making noise you'd hear a clicking/clunking noise over bumps generally...hope this all helps!

 

Helps alot. Thanks.

The only thing that concerned me it might not be the bearing/hub, was the fact the wheel didn't move when I grasped it at 6 and 12 and push/pulled. When my bearing had gone bad before, it did move.

It's def not a clicking noise. It is a whirring noise.

 

Called a local tire place and they stated no aftermarket places make the hub and that is something they would have to get from the manufacturer. Has that been ya'lls experience as well?
How much did it run?

 

Back a couple months ago I had a similar problem when turning right, but for some reason it just stopped making the noise. I have heard from my buddies that the CV joint is what causes this.

 

Don't let it fool you, just because the wheel has no play doesn't mean the bearing and/or hub isn't worn. That's usually a good indicator, but not 100% (like anything else in life). At work I had a 2009 Ford Edge (I know not a Maxima but still relevent) that had the same kind of noise. After doing the whole NVH diag process I narrowed it down to the R/F wheel hub. Checked for end play and found there was none! Put the car on the lift and drove it about 55mph and sure enough it was hub noise. So I replaced the hub and the bearing (press fit, what a PITA) and voila! Quiet as can be. The only reason I'd recommend replacing the hub along with the bearing is to eliminate potential causes of the concern happening again (dealership mentality, comebacks always bite ya). I'd play it safe and replace both components and call it a day! Hope that helps ya some!

 

A worn CV can also make that grinding noise but only under load (not when coasting with no hands on the steering wheel). If you have noise while coasting it's the wheel bearings. If you have the noise under load it can be either CV or bearings.

 

Thanks again. Yeah, I'm def getting both replaced. Some shop quote me $360 for just the bearing replacement. Can imagine another $100 or more for the hub. More than I was thinking it was going to be.

 

Anyone?

 

Same exact thing about 3 or 4 years back, ironically, I think I paid about the same, maybe a little less.

There was a GREAT write up on how to do this on Motorvtae awhile back, but it looks as though the site is down.

 

2 yrs ago, I hit a nasty pothole that blew-out my right front wb.
Had to drive on it for 800mi b4 I could get it repaired, so needless to say: the hub was shot to hell.
I'm 99% Hub was OEM, and the shop I had doing the repairs charged me $154. Bearing was $78....labor $150 = 2.5 hrs.

Total with tax: $411.95.

I personally would NOT attempt to unseat/repress a wheel bearing -- EPSECIALLY the hub.
I also remember that the hub castle nut has to be torqued to some obscene spec (like @225lb.ft!) and it was very important to get that correct during reassembly.

I don't look forward to having that issue again!

gr

 

Thanks all.

The prices I got from Dave B are:
$89.66 for Bearing
$119.33 for Hub - which is only OEM

So $210 for parts and it looks like ~2hrs for labor.

I sure hope the noise is coming from the hub/bearing and not something else. Don't want to waste ~$400.

I would do it myself, but the pressing requirement for the new bearing kinda kills that.

 

What were your symptoms?

 

Epacy, where are you located?

 

approx STL, why?

 

Try to tighten the axle nut. 250ft lbs if I remember correctly.

I had to replace my hub and bearing the second time it happened to me.

 

I was gonna say if you were closer to me I could try to save you a few bucks on labor. I have access to a press at my shop. I'd just have to make sure it'd be okay with the boss first haha

 

Any updates on the situation?

 

Drive, turn, *click* *click* *click* *click* *click* *click* *click**click**click*click*click*clickclickclickcl ickclickclick

 

Have car in the shop today to get the bearing replaced and they'll let me know if the hub is tore up.

I got under there again and everything seemed in order. Knocked some of the links around with a rubber mallet and no additional noise. I sure hope the bearing is it. It's just a different noise from what I had before and the lack of wheel movement when I grab it has me questioning it.

 

Well, just got a call from the shop. Turns out it is the CV axle. The boots aren't ripped and leaking as I verified, but it seems the rubber has dry rotted and is what's causing that sound. And, as I believed I stated it was a squeaky rubber sounding noise. Also, i noticed there was no play in the wheel and they said the bearing is fine. The axle replacement is cheaper anyway. So, glad to have this resolved and it confirms my suspicion that it may not be the bearing.
I guess the clicking happens once the boot tears and the fluid leaks out.
Saw the axle last 100,000k and I have ~115k right now.

 

Thks for the update!

I guess this is good news?!

In regards to the Rubber boots: each time I have the wheels off, I take a spray can of Silicone Lubricant and hose-down each of the CV boots, Power Steering Boots, sway bar bushings, endlink bushings, and anything else RUBBER that can wear or tear!
Not sure if this is REALLY doing alot of good -- but 7 yrs and 75k later, not a tear or crack on ANY of mine!
Enh - and ounce of prevention...!

gr

 

Yeah. They said if they sprayed the boots the sound went away, but would come back. Probably too late to try and save the boot after 115k miles of not doing anything with them.
Not sure how often I would have to get down there and re-oil.
Cost was $250, so I wasn't sweating it that much.

 

Is it necessary to get an alignment after changing the CV axle?

 

I'm happy to report the noise is gone!

Now if I can just get someone to properly balance my d@mn wheels.

 

wheel bearing?

 

Hunter ROADFORCE Analyzer is the only PROPER way to accomplish this -- all others are just wasting time.

This is yet ANOTHER consistent problem that I have learned to deal with on this car every 5-10k miles. No matter WHAT tires I buy, they ALWAYS go out of balance sooner than later.

gr

 

The CV boots are both fine.. ive had them replaced less than a year ago because they went bad and cracked.. i would get the clicking noise when i turned then but now this is a different sound.. more like metal on metal when i turn left and move like i described before..

ill jack up the car and check the wheel bearing

 

Yes! I have been expierencing this problem for awhile. Now. Noone can seem to balance wheels and I keep having to take it back and they always say they re-balanced them, meaning they didn't do it right the first time, and the vibration just changes, doesn't go away. So frustrating and car rides like crap!!!