Do these fans ever shut off?
09-25-2009, 05:47 PM
#1
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Do these fans ever shut off?
I have a 02 se with 109k and both fans keep running and will not shut off. The temp gauge sits slightly below 1/2 all day even in traffic but the fans will not stop running. I dont have the climate control on so is this normal? Could find a answer in the search engine.
09-25-2009, 05:52 PM
#2
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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why do you want them to turn off? the temp gauge is sitting below the 1/2 mark because the fans are running full blast. if they were off, the temperature would creep upward, no matter how cold it is outside (combustion takes place at a few hundred degrees)
the fans will turn off when you go on the highway or exceed 45 mph or some number like that i believe. thats because the wind from your driving will ventilate better than the fans.
the fans will turn off when you go on the highway or exceed 45 mph or some number like that i believe. thats because the wind from your driving will ventilate better than the fans.
09-25-2009, 06:05 PM
#4
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don't get me wrong they'll turn off if it gets cool enough. but in case your relays are malfunctioning, early in the morning when your engine is cold, start the car and see if the fans come on with it.
09-25-2009, 06:06 PM
#5
Unless he has blockage in the radiator (although I guess the temp would go higher)....
The fans should only be noticeable when the coolant is hot enough. If they're running high speed (they're loud when on high so you can't mistake it) when it's cool outside or soon after you start the car, I'd say you might have an issue.
All summer mine only ran full speed during the hottest days (90s). If it's warm, I believe when you turn on the AC it auto. kicks them to high.
As far as running normal speed quite often, I'd say that's business as usual.
The fans should only be noticeable when the coolant is hot enough. If they're running high speed (they're loud when on high so you can't mistake it) when it's cool outside or soon after you start the car, I'd say you might have an issue.
All summer mine only ran full speed during the hottest days (90s). If it's warm, I believe when you turn on the AC it auto. kicks them to high.
As far as running normal speed quite often, I'd say that's business as usual.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 09-25-2009 at 06:09 PM.
09-25-2009, 06:11 PM
#6
hmmm. i have a 5.5 and on a hot day, operating temp, with my a/c running i can clearly hear my fan cut on and off.. you might have a problem with your relays or coolant temp sensor... but dont worry as long as it runs all the time as opposed to not running at all.. then its not an issue.
09-25-2009, 06:44 PM
#7
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Unless he has blockage in the radiator (although I guess the temp would go higher)....
The fans should only be noticeable when the coolant is hot enough. If they're running high speed (they're loud when on high so you can't mistake it) when it's cool outside or soon after you start the car, I'd say you might have an issue.
All summer mine only ran full speed during the hottest days (90s). If it's warm, I believe when you turn on the AC it auto. kicks them to high.
As far as running normal speed quite often, I'd say that's business as usual.
The fans should only be noticeable when the coolant is hot enough. If they're running high speed (they're loud when on high so you can't mistake it) when it's cool outside or soon after you start the car, I'd say you might have an issue.
All summer mine only ran full speed during the hottest days (90s). If it's warm, I believe when you turn on the AC it auto. kicks them to high.
As far as running normal speed quite often, I'd say that's business as usual.
09-25-2009, 06:50 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Jersey (Near Philly)
Posts: 511
Mine never runs above the dot on the temp gauge. About a 1/4 way up. The needle will actually cover the dot.
Since your's is running at 1/2 the fans should be running.
My guess is that you have either a partially blocked radiator, partially closed thermostat, air in the system, or maybe a starting to fail water pump.
Or the anti-freeze could be improperly mixed. If you have too much antifreeze to water ratio it will not cool as efficiently.
Either way I thik it running at 1/2 is too high.
Where in the country do you live??
Since your's is running at 1/2 the fans should be running.
My guess is that you have either a partially blocked radiator, partially closed thermostat, air in the system, or maybe a starting to fail water pump.
Or the anti-freeze could be improperly mixed. If you have too much antifreeze to water ratio it will not cool as efficiently.
Either way I thik it running at 1/2 is too high.
Where in the country do you live??
09-25-2009, 06:56 PM
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Manhattan Beach, Ca / Dallas, Tx
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Mine never runs above the dot on the temp gauge. About a 1/4 way up. The needle will actually cover the dot.
Since your's is running at 1/2 the fans should be running.
My guess is that you have either a partially blocked radiator, partially closed thermostat, air in the system, or maybe a starting to fail water pump.
Or the anti-freeze could be improperly mixed. If you have too much antifreeze to water ratio it will not cool as efficiently.
Either way I thik it running at 1/2 is too high.
Where in the country do you live??
Since your's is running at 1/2 the fans should be running.
My guess is that you have either a partially blocked radiator, partially closed thermostat, air in the system, or maybe a starting to fail water pump.
Or the anti-freeze could be improperly mixed. If you have too much antifreeze to water ratio it will not cool as efficiently.
Either way I thik it running at 1/2 is too high.
Where in the country do you live??
09-26-2009, 08:02 AM
#13
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12-18-2017, 08:29 PM
#17
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Location: Danville, Indiana (West of Indy)
Posts: 39
Super old thread, but not sure this was resolved and I am having a similar issue (2000 Max SE auto). After I shut off my car, the fan, oil light headlights (in auto) and a few others all come on for 10-30 seconds like the key is still in the "run" position. One time they ran for nearly an hour (I went inside and when I came out the fans were still on). Car would not start, so disconnected/reconnected battery and things were good again. So now I have to make sure things shut down before I get out of my car, kind of a hastle. Weird it is doing this nearly every time even when the engine is still cold and the fans are not needed or spinning with the engine running. Current codes I am working thru P1320, P0505, P0740 & P0740, none cooling related but all ECM related. No I have not yet checked out my coolant temp sensor yet, but will be the 1st thing I check.
Again, a supper old thread but hoping after all these years a resolution has been found? Thank for any help provided!
Again, a supper old thread but hoping after all these years a resolution has been found? Thank for any help provided!
12-18-2017, 08:56 PM
#18
I don't know what you are trying to say with "all ECM related" but what you did say makes no sense.
The P0740 is an automatic transmission code - The torque converter clutch solenoid valve. You probably will have to replace the solenoid.
P0505 is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV-AAC). The stepper motor windings have probably shorted out. Usually the car will have a high engine idle when this happens.
P1320 is Ignition Coil Signal. You have one or more bad ignition coils. In cars this old, you may have to replace all the ignition coils due to old age.
The P0740 is an automatic transmission code - The torque converter clutch solenoid valve. You probably will have to replace the solenoid.
P0505 is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV-AAC). The stepper motor windings have probably shorted out. Usually the car will have a high engine idle when this happens.
P1320 is Ignition Coil Signal. You have one or more bad ignition coils. In cars this old, you may have to replace all the ignition coils due to old age.
12-19-2017, 06:25 PM
#19
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Location: Danville, Indiana (West of Indy)
Posts: 39
I don't know what you are trying to say with "all ECM related" but what you did say makes no sense.
The P0740 is an automatic transmission code - The torque converter clutch solenoid valve. You probably will have to replace the solenoid. (After I test it , I will start by trying to grab a couple of these next time I go to the junkyard and try to save money, Nut)
P0505 is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV-AAC). The stepper motor windings have probably shorted out. Usually the car will have a high engine idle when this happens. (After I test it, I will try disassembly & cleaning, Nut)
P1320 is Ignition Coil Signal. You have one or more bad ignition coils. In cars this old, you may have to replace all the ignition coils due to old age.
The P0740 is an automatic transmission code - The torque converter clutch solenoid valve. You probably will have to replace the solenoid. (After I test it , I will start by trying to grab a couple of these next time I go to the junkyard and try to save money, Nut)
P0505 is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV-AAC). The stepper motor windings have probably shorted out. Usually the car will have a high engine idle when this happens. (After I test it, I will try disassembly & cleaning, Nut)
P1320 is Ignition Coil Signal. You have one or more bad ignition coils. In cars this old, you may have to replace all the ignition coils due to old age.
Sorry for the crappy post Dennis, was an end of the night shoot out and I didn't put enough thought into what I was trying to say. But thank you for your reply! I guess what I meant was, none of my current faults are cooling system faults, therefore I'm not sure that any of them have to do with my fan staying on after I turn the car off?? The exception (I believe) could be the P0505, if the bad IACV-AAC has damaged the ECM. Probably my best line of action is to get my current faults repaired & cleared and then see what the fan is doing and troubleshoot from there, unless I receive some suggestions in the mean time. Thanks again Dennis!
12-20-2017, 08:01 PM
#20
Miscellaneous comments.
The transmission torque converter clutch solenoid valve is inside the trans, requiring you to remove the valve body. It is also part of of a set of 5 solenoid valves that you have to buy all together as a set.
If the IACV has shorted out, it is very likely that the driver transistor integrated circuit in the ECU burned up. Taking the IACV apart and cleaning it probably will not help. get the FSM and check the stepper motor winding resistance. They should all read about 22 ohms.
See pages 502 and 506 - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/EC.pdf
If the ECU got damaged, the only way to tell is to remove it from the car and open it up and look inside it. See post # 27 for an example of a fried STA509A chip - http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
The stuff about the lights being on after the ignition is turned off - I don't know. That may take some serious diagnostics.
The transmission torque converter clutch solenoid valve is inside the trans, requiring you to remove the valve body. It is also part of of a set of 5 solenoid valves that you have to buy all together as a set.
If the IACV has shorted out, it is very likely that the driver transistor integrated circuit in the ECU burned up. Taking the IACV apart and cleaning it probably will not help. get the FSM and check the stepper motor winding resistance. They should all read about 22 ohms.
See pages 502 and 506 - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/EC.pdf
If the ECU got damaged, the only way to tell is to remove it from the car and open it up and look inside it. See post # 27 for an example of a fried STA509A chip - http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html
The stuff about the lights being on after the ignition is turned off - I don't know. That may take some serious diagnostics.
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