Well, Original Altenator on i'ts way out!
10-09-2009, 10:57 PM
#1
Well, Original Altenator on i'ts way out!
My wife got semi stranded @ here girlfriend's house a few days ago! Kinda surprised that the original altenator is going out! Measured output with a new cheap battery and it measured 12.5-13.25V with all the bells and whistles blaring. With 102K on the clock and the car is 6 yrs almost 7 yrs old, it seems a bit premature when compared to the D21 Hardbody which lost it's Oem altenator 15 yrs later( but hardly any electronic gadgets on truck).....I'm kinda thinking maybe it could be related the ES solid motor mounts and the increase in vibration may have reduced the altenator life by a few years..That's just an assumption! I've it's already ordered an altenator and it or course is an OEM brand spankin new for only $265 (Hitachi). Sorry guys my major components are always Oem only!!!! Now I'll get a chance to see what all you guys were pissing and moaning about during it's removal and replacement.......
10-10-2009, 10:27 AM
#6
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chicago, Il
Posts: 65
Jup... Mine just went
Yea... Min just went out. 300 bucks later and I'm back for more. Mine probably went because the clown before me had two amps and one battery in the car. Then again it was 9 years old so it was time...
10-10-2009, 04:34 PM
#11
10-10-2009, 11:48 PM
#13
How many of you guys that changed your altenators around 100K are equipped with ES poly urethane motor mounts? I'm down here in Texas maybe that freakin heat took it's toll on that altenator. I still believe 102K is premature compared to my 15yrs service of my D21 HB. Maybe I'm wrong...but anyway it's still producing enough power to drive it just won't be going out state!
10-11-2009, 06:58 AM
#14
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Palm Beach Gardens
Posts: 256
Hmm you guys are having better luck then my alternator. It just went on me at 80k. I also didnt end up having to pay for labor. The guys at pep boys are morons and we're "trying" to save me money when I told them my specific problem. So 3 days later they ended up giving me labor free when I had to go back in 3 times in 3 days explaining what I explained was my problem - alternator. (battery and brake light on)
One of the days I had brought the car back in before replacing the alternator (finally) they said it probably was the battery. So they replaced my battery for free which I had used for 3 months (bought from them) Bunch of morons I swear.
One of the days I had brought the car back in before replacing the alternator (finally) they said it probably was the battery. So they replaced my battery for free which I had used for 3 months (bought from them) Bunch of morons I swear.
10-11-2009, 09:01 AM
#15
Maybe I'll do it myself... I'm sure it's the rectifiers(diodes) cluster! But I really believe in Nissan's starters, altenators, fuel pumps, timing chains are more durable than those offered by the aftermarket. I always got more service out those new or rebuilt starters(by Nissan themselves) than some little company that beads/sand blast all the cadium plating off everything on the altenator/starter then within a matter of time it's no later working due to the part corroding cause they're no longer protected from the elements.
How many of you guys that changed your altenators around 100K are equipped with ES poly urethane motor mounts? I'm down here in Texas maybe that freakin heat took it's toll on that altenator. I still believe 102K is premature compared to my 15yrs service of my D21 HB. Maybe I'm wrong...but anyway it's still producing enough power to drive it just won't be going out state!
How many of you guys that changed your altenators around 100K are equipped with ES poly urethane motor mounts? I'm down here in Texas maybe that freakin heat took it's toll on that altenator. I still believe 102K is premature compared to my 15yrs service of my D21 HB. Maybe I'm wrong...but anyway it's still producing enough power to drive it just won't be going out state!
10-12-2009, 05:53 PM
#17
Since the replacement is new I'll rebuilt the weakling and maybe see if I can fit it to my 3rd Gen VG.... I noticed Courtesy does offer an exploded veiw of the altenator so maybe I'll be able to purchase the parts myself and fix it @ my workshop!
10-14-2009, 05:58 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 497
I have had couple of incidents of engine suddenly cutting out on me in the last year. Are these symptoms of flakey alternator? Does bad alternator cause engine to die on the road? The restart is fine and so is the voltage output measured afterwards.
Thanks,
- Vikas 2000 Base GXE 135K
Thanks,
- Vikas 2000 Base GXE 135K
10-27-2009, 07:58 AM
#21
lets see, since it kept me outta work today...have had brake/battery light flashing for a few weeks, driving to work this morning: was running stereo/heat/lights, Lights started to go dim, engine started to skip or bog i guess. came to a red light, i assume my brake lights took to much because it seemed to want to die..pulled over and it died, put a decent jump on it and got it started. quick check at both autozone and advanced auto seemed 95% useless. so i guess im just goin to replace the altenator. im not the original owner, prob was a system in it before me, any suggestions on brand...any oem?
01 102k(deadly mileage apparentally)
01 102k(deadly mileage apparentally)
Last edited by arcueda; 10-27-2009 at 08:02 AM.
10-27-2009, 01:26 PM
#23
Guess what guys??? My Altenator was fine...The UDP driven altenator measured about 12.2-12.75 Volts @ idle with lights, a/c on full, caution lights flashing....But what I failed to do will raise the rpm to about 1000 rpm to see if the output changed to 13.8-14.2!!! I installed a new $300 altenator and now I have a spare used one!!! Don't waste your money on those Exide gel filled batteries they only seem to last 2 yrs out of a 8yr warranty. I'm now running a Optima red top group 35.....Did not throughly test my charging system...my bad!
Last edited by CMax03; 10-27-2009 at 01:29 PM.
10-27-2009, 04:55 PM
#24
changed my altenator....said f-it....took it out and it failed the bench test. put rebuilt in...bout $160(autozone). everything seems to be running fine now. not too hard, but there are a few tricks i now know
10-27-2009, 08:02 PM
#25
When I replaced the low output altenator (I thought), I removed the radiator/radiator fans/fan shroud to create clearance for removal and installation! Didn't want to mix with the a/c compressor and possibly causing any problem with the lines trying to manuever it out the way! It's working great now and will be for a long time!!!! The Gates belt wasn't ever cracked not one bit....It's been in service for 3-4 yrs since the UDP was installed...I replaced it, with a new one, and placed the used one in the trunk for an emergency replacement!
10-27-2009, 08:09 PM
#26
Hahaha, would have helped if you mentioned you had a UDP. Our diagnosis would have been different.
Guess it all worked out - except for the extra money you spent. Hopefully you can recover most of that.
Guess it all worked out - except for the extra money you spent. Hopefully you can recover most of that.
10-27-2009, 08:10 PM
#27
No idea if my alternator is the original (162,600 miles) but the one in my old Accord made it to 175,000 before it started to whine a bit and I changed it so I wouldn't end up getting stranded. On the other hand, the 626 I used to have had the original alternator replaced at 42,000 miles.
The best thing you can do to ensure long alternator life is to buy the best battery you can afford and replace them the first sign the battery is getting weak. Continuing to drive on a bad battery eats alternators.
The best thing you can do to ensure long alternator life is to buy the best battery you can afford and replace them the first sign the battery is getting weak. Continuing to drive on a bad battery eats alternators.
10-27-2009, 08:17 PM
#28
My alternator just went last week. I was a bit upset as well as my car only had 79,000KM (very low). What pissed me off the most that a couple of days later my stupid radiator started leaking. I think it had to do with the owner before me never changed the rad fluid (not sure on this though) and I've only had this car since late july so I haven't had the chance to check everything
10-28-2009, 04:30 PM
#30
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hamilton,ON Canada
Posts: 11
I am not getting any battery dash light coming on but sometimes she studders on start up . I have 12.9 to 13.5 v at the Battery. My car is not clearly showing me that its the alternator?Also only 80000km and a new battery!
Last edited by CDN2000SE; 10-28-2009 at 04:36 PM.
11-02-2009, 06:48 AM
#31
*UPDATE
-been about 50mi. on new altenator and belt. car is running spectacular. Prior to replacement i had battery/brake light flashing, SES light on showing P0300 code(have replaced coilpacks/sparkplugs, next step was CS pos sensor), and car sputtered often and seemed to be getting worse.
-all symtoms are gone and i think my car is running better than ever.not to say that the ses light wont come back on in a few mi.could have just cleared on restart
-can prob provide a picture write-up for bottom replacement if anyone needs it, I found it to be fairly simple and it was my first time doing one.Messing with the AC compressor wasnt bad at all, just proba few little trick that could save u some time.
-refab alt. autozone. 150 w/ core
pretty happy about this, info from the .org helped alot, thanks all
-been about 50mi. on new altenator and belt. car is running spectacular. Prior to replacement i had battery/brake light flashing, SES light on showing P0300 code(have replaced coilpacks/sparkplugs, next step was CS pos sensor), and car sputtered often and seemed to be getting worse.
-all symtoms are gone and i think my car is running better than ever.not to say that the ses light wont come back on in a few mi.could have just cleared on restart
-can prob provide a picture write-up for bottom replacement if anyone needs it, I found it to be fairly simple and it was my first time doing one.Messing with the AC compressor wasnt bad at all, just proba few little trick that could save u some time.
-refab alt. autozone. 150 w/ core
pretty happy about this, info from the .org helped alot, thanks all
Last edited by arcueda; 11-02-2009 at 06:52 AM.
11-03-2009, 07:14 PM
#33
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 5
This is the first time posting something to the forum. My alternator went out on 10/30 and left me on the side of the highway. Earlier that day got a battery and brake light. Took the alternator in and failed the test, bought one at Autozone for $160 with a lifetime warranty. While I was at it I replaced tie rod ends, belts, oil, and front rotors and pads due to warping. Took me 2 days to finish everything and the car is running phenomenal now. This is the first time I have done this much work to the car. For anyone doing this I would recommend removing the fans and radiator, takes less than 10 minutes and gives you 4+ inches to work with.
11-05-2009, 12:26 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 497
Does losing alternator mean you get stranded immediately? I know I had 1983 Prelude which had a bug in the design so that when alternator died, it cut off the gas to the carburetor. Do Maxima designer have done something stupid like that?
11-05-2009, 05:49 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 5
When I got stranded the car was still running and I could rev the engine while in neutral but would not rev at all as soon as I would put it in gear.
11-05-2009, 07:03 PM
#37
All depends on how weak/gone the alternator is. There is no cut off or anything, but when an alty is going, it can't recharge the battery which in turn cannot sustain the car. You might be able to get slowly get home, or you might be stranded.
11-05-2009, 09:04 PM
#38
Drove 32 miles home on the battery when the crank pulley came apart in my 626. No crank pulley, nowhere for the alternator belt to go. When I got home, my car would still start and when I put a charger on it, the meter showed 11 volts.
11-06-2009, 10:13 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,142
If you wash the engine often, getting the alternator wet with water, dressing, and degreaser, then the alternator would go prematurely. Alternators do not have an expiry date. They wear out due to the conditions they are subjected to.