Don't quote me on this but I think it's to detect knock so that timing can be advanced (or retarded?). It's pretty much a variable resistor whose resistance changes based on the shock that happens when knock occurs. If it's detecting knock unnecessarily, you've got unnecessary timing changes. Timing changes means the spark plug fires earlier/later.

Yes, but time is of the essence! Thankfully I didn't have any problems but I double/triple checked stuff before proceeding to the next 'step'. Plus I just wanted to get it all done in one swoop vs. trying to see where the biggest improvement was made.

 

Ridin', I'm bumping this for some questions on your KS replacement.

Why did you replace the harness as well? (I'm assuming by "harness", you mean the electrical clip/connector.) Did it come with the KS, or was it a separate purchase? And do you recall your parts costs?

I'm trying to orient myself to these pictures... you're coming at it from the driver's side, yes?

 

Removing the IM will ensure the proper torque is applied per the FSM, using a torque wrench of course.

This would be the single most crucial item on the car to use a TW on, IMO.

 

Yes would have been nice with a step by step thing...whoever is doing this, please do a step by step DIY.

But overall good DIY points!

 

Yeah, um, torque wrench I have, but removing the IM is something I'd like to avoid. So... the proper torque can't be achieved with a 90 degree adapter?

 

I can remove and reinstall my IM in less than 10 minutes .. Come on man ... That's what people in the A32 world used to say.

 

And I can build you a computer from spare parts, so what's your point? Dude, we all have our skills, but caution is reasonable when you also know your limitations.

Besides... I've got phenolic spacers, which complicates it somewhat.

 

I knew you would say that, but the spacers make it easier IMO. It's not a skill, it's growing a pair and trying it. I don't consider myself having or being skilled for removing an A33B IM.

There are many occasions where I just decided to try and and it was a lot easier than I thought.


Aside from that, if you over or under torque the KS, odds are it wont function accordingly, either too sensitive, or not enough (too much timing or too little).

Dip sheet move since you're trying to 'fix' something.

 

OK. Now that's valuable insight, that proper torque on the KS affects the signal. Makes sense, too, considering the nature of the device. Thanks for that.

The rest is just testosterone. "Grow a pair" - srsly?

 

Ok, be strong my friend, removing the IM isn't bad at all, it's all a matter of will power and please, don't be afraid.


I was never handy with a wrench and car. Trying things made me better and less umm, can't say afraid because Roch will be offended so ..) hesitant because I didn't want to eff everything up.


Here's my story and specific examples:


1.) Installing an SAFC II. Took me weeks to sac up. Finally tried it, wired it in backwards FTL, did it again, became better and more competent (pair grew some hair)
2.) Was installing my TS and used my leather man, too much testosterone and chopped 12 wires from the bundle, car didn't even start. Had to get even more familiar with the FSM, reconnect all wires and fix it, FTL, but the pair got bigger.
3.) I paid 950$ to have some dumb trucks install my headers 3 months after i got my car, Dumb as$ move, WTF was I thinking? Anyhow, the rear header decided to spring a leak on the EGR plug, sounded horrendous. My pair was big enough to where I decided to attemtp to remove the rear header and get it repaired. Fun job, learned even more, and all is fixed now. Took a little bit of my time, and
4.) They charged me 225$ for removal/replacing of my VB, that's insane. The old VB didnt fit due to the solenoids from early year A33B's are smaller than later models. The tranny tech takes me to the shop so I can look, again, thi shat looks easy as hell, why the hell 225$, I ordered a less aggressive unit, and will be doing the install myself in a week or so. Yeah, it's like that.


So there.

 

Upper Engine fear.

I'll see what comes of this later this Summer. Too many $$$ commitments in the next 6 weeks; including driving down to Maxus2010. Right now, I'm just gathering information, asking questions, learning obscure mechanical BS about my car... all that hobby stuff.

What came of this discussion (other than thumping chests with NmexMAX), was the knowledge that the KS should have torque applied to specification, which means removing the IM if it's going to be done proper. That puts things in proper perspective for me.

As to the DIY component... I am very fortunate to have found an awesome street/pro mechanic a few years ago. I've grown to trust his skills and advice, and prefer to spend the money on his time as opposed to mine. His costs are low, and we have a great relationship. For me, that's reasonable. I'll do the plug-n-play things, and I'll employ Matt for the rest.

 

There's only 1 matt when talking about the vq.

 

Beats me, man. From your POV, I'm a just a newb, who doesn't know squat about the Old Guard.

However, in deference to a history of faceless Org heroes... fixed below:

 

I remember when I first installed my lrmaf and safc2, I was being coached by matt via aim.

 

Almost forgot about this...

 

Do it all at once considering your upper engine phobia. Its a separate purchase but some places, I believe courtesy offer them as a kit.

 

My upper engine phobia... You just couldn't stop yourself, could you?

Thanks, NmexMAX. If I replace the KS this Summer, (which seems likely), I'll replace the harness as well.

 

Why do you feel that you need to replace the KS?
You can check it by removing the ECM connector and checking resistance between pin #71 and ground. Resistance should be between 500 and 620 K ohms @ 77* F.

 

Now, if you were only southeast of Toronto by like 150 miles, instead of north, I'd buy you and your magic ohmmeter a beer...

Why? Because I'm experiencing low-end pinging that wasn't resolved with high octane or octane boost, upper-engine cleaning, and a new MAF. The KS seems like my next target. A seemingly random target, perhaps, but at least it's something to throw darts at.

 

Hell, you can even remove it and check the resistance w/o removing said IM.

 

Remove it without removing the IM...? You just got through telling me that it needs to be properly torqued down, which necessitates removing the IM.

I'm going to start calling you Lucy. The KS is my football. Guess who I am?

 

You can remove it w/o taking the IM off, but good luck torquing it down when you put it back on.

BUT, the A33B IM config gives a lot more room than the A32, me thinks it may be possible with the proper toque wrench to do all he above w/o removing said piece of Al.

So yeah, I still love ya

 

Damn good job on all that work!!

 

Right back at ya, buddy.

In case I did someday replace the KS, I was reviewing the situation this afternoon, deciding how easy or hard a task it would be without removing the IM. Now that I know exactly what I'm looking at, I believe it's very accessible given an extension and u-joint, just like the OP did. My concern is getting the old bolt loose, but then dropping it in a manner that is decidedly inaccessible. Or doing the same when trying to put the new one on.

How do you make sure you don't pull a boner move like that? I see the OP taped up the ratchet pieces. But what about the bolt?

 

Pack some plumber's putty or similar into your socket and it will hold the bolt in the socket. Or, (less messy), wrap the inside of the socket with some electrical tape to cause a tight enough fit that the bolt will stay in there.

 

^^^
Good ideas, Spock. I'll be sure to remember those tricks. Thanks!

 

Don't forget that using a swivel adapter with render your torque wrench reading worthless.

 

According to page EM-73 in the Field Service Manual, the torque specs on the Knock Sensor are only 12 - 20 ft/lbs. That's a fair range, and only snug, but by no means tight.

I'm no mechanic, but I bet if you set the torque wrench to 20+ ft/lbs, and you hear that click, that even with a swivel adapter you'd be safely between 12 - 20.

Actually, now that I think about it, the ratchet extension itself will reduce applied torque, too. Hmm... it's really all guesswork then, I suppose.

 

I'd set it for 22 lbs. and not worry about it. Very unlikely you'll loose more than 10 ft. lbs. through the extension and swivel. 12 - 20 is like a 60% tolerance. Not something to nit-pick about IMO.