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Which Front Sway Bar Bushings -- 22mm or 23mm?

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Old 10-27-2009, 12:57 PM
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Which Front Sway Bar Bushings -- 22mm or 23mm?

Like the title says.

Energy Suspension makes 2 sets of Front Sway Bar Bushings, 22 mm and 23 mm. I asked them which one for a 5.5 Gen SE 6MT, and they told me to go measure my bar.

Not that I have a problem measuring my bar...

But seriously, which one is the right set? I suppose it's possible the SE model has a thicker FSB, but I never heard of that. For those of you in the know, can you educate, please?
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:16 PM
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Se 23mm
GLE/GXE 22mm
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
Se 23mm
GLE/GXE 22mm
Co-sign.
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:39 PM
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Telling you to go measure your bar is a little too personal, if you ask me....

Originally Posted by CMax03
Se 23mm
GLE/GXE 22mm
Good info to have when my time comes to replace my bushings.
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:39 PM
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I think all 02-03 are 23mm, with the 22mm being for 00-01 non SE models. Either way it doesnt matter since yours is an SE
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:04 PM
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23mm.
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Old 10-27-2009, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
Se 23mm
GLE/GXE 22mm
Originally Posted by PulsarGTS
Co-sign.
Originally Posted by Gemner
I think all 02-03 are 23mm, with the 22mm being for 00-01 non SE models. Either way it doesnt matter since yours is an SE
Originally Posted by rroderiques77
23mm.
Thank you all. I appreciate it, guys.
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Old 10-27-2009, 08:11 PM
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i know im years late on this but from all ive read and seen.. gle/gxe 22mm and se is 23mm ... know that doesnt help at this point but update when you replace them if you feel anything
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
Se 23mm
GLE/GXE 22mm
yup.
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mist max2000
i know im years late on this but from all ive read and seen.. gle/gxe 22mm and se is 23mm ... know that doesnt help at this point but update when you replace them if you feel anything
Struts, boots, strut mounts, rotors and pads next Spring... and I figured since the FSB end-links are prone to wear and failure, (and since the kits from Moog are so inexpensive), I'd replace the end-links and FSB bushings.

With all that happening at once, I'm sure to feel a significant change in my ride, but there's no way any of that could be identified as the result of installing ES bushings on the front sway bar.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Struts, boots, strut mounts, rotors and pads next Spring... and I figured since the FSB end-links are prone to wear and failure, (and since the kits from Moog are so inexpensive), I'd replace the end-links and FSB bushings.

With all that happening at once, I'm sure to feel a significant change in my ride, but there's no way any of that could be identified as the result of installing ES bushings on the front sway bar.
very true.. sounds like a fun spring project.... next spring my projects are stillen classic lip kit, cm headers, vfacII/widebando2,... stuff is eating at me just sitting in storage lol....damn snow
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:15 AM
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Guys, I'm bumping this thread because I started a similar discussion in a noob's thread, and think I blatantly post-whored it. Feel bad, but anyway... the info is better positioned here.

On EnergySuspensionParts.com, there are 2 sets of bushings. The first are the ones we've discussed here (22mm and 23mm variations, made by ES.)

But what are the second set? They aren't ES parts, they're MOOG OEM Replacements. 2slow says they are "split", so you don't have to slip it down the bar. He's a smart guy, so, um, OK.

My questions:
  • Does the bar have to be disassembled to put both sets these bushings on?
  • If the bar has to be disassembled, does that likely mean replace the end-links too?
And the big one:
  • Little rubber bushings on the FSB... does it really matter?
  • Has anyone done this, and could you tell... or was it just peace of mind?




...and these:

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Old 02-04-2010, 11:56 AM
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The ES bushings are also split, you pry it open with your fingers and put on the bar.

General instructions:
1. Jack up car and remove wheel
2. Remove sway bar endlinks
3. 10mm ratchet to remove bushing bracket
4. Slide off bracket, slide off bushing, grease new bushing, and reverse.

They make a small difference in my opinion, nothing drastic and probably work well in conjunction with other mods.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:55 PM
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What you tend to notice with urethane bushings and upgraded end links is quicker steering response.
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
What you tend to notice with urethane bushings and upgraded end links is quicker steering response.
If I can feel the FSB bushings, then I'm all for it, Scott. I'm pretty sensitive to my ride.

But "upgraded"? I don't know about that... after a lot of discussion, I came away thinking MOOG end-links are basic OEM replacements, regardless of how beefy they look.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-upgrades.html

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Old 02-04-2010, 01:29 PM
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OK. I ordered these just now:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.5125

To be installed in April, along with all the other stuff collecting in the corner this winter.

I'll bump this thread again after they show up, or after installation. $25 after shipping... it's a pretty cheap gamble on whether or not there's value.

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Old 02-04-2010, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Split? Are you sure? I could see the seam as part of the mold process, but to actually split the bushing? Yikes! That seems wrong. But you've had hands-on experience with the FSB, so I guess that's it then. Here are the 2 links for those 2 sets of bushings:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=7.5125
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...od=MOOG-K90587

The second set that you recognized are called "FSB Frame Bushings", and apply to all model maximas... and you're right, they aren't ES, they're MOOG parts. The first set comes in 22mm and 23mm apertures, because the SE model uses a slightly thicker FSB, and those are Energy Suspension parts.

I haven't gotten under the car yet to scope any of this out. That happens next month.

(OP, sorry about this. I think this segue is almost played out.)
To continue this side conversation, each bushing is one piece, but is split to allow it slide around the bar. Some examples:





The only method to avoid these split bushings is to use a multi-piece bar like this (splined, straight center section):



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Old 02-04-2010, 02:32 PM
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It also just so happened that I had an extra set of the MOOG bushings (I didn't realize they came in pairs). The pic is from my phone, so it sort of sucks.



http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...od=MOOG-K90587

Last edited by 2slow; 02-04-2010 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:13 PM
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Hmm...



That sure looks like an old 23mm was replaced with a new 22mm...

...reason I noticed this is because I had to return the unkown name 22mm to Federated Auto Parts and buy the Moog 23mm from Napa because Federated didnt carry 23mm.
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nismopc
Hmm...



That sure looks like an old 23mm was replaced with a new 22mm...

...reason I noticed this is because I had to return the unkown name 22mm to Federated Auto Parts and buy the Moog 23mm from Napa because Federated didnt carry 23mm.
That was a random picture used to illustrate how sway bar bushings are typically split. In this case they were from a VW of some kind, and likely worn out judging by the differences in ID.
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2slow
It also just so happened that I had an extra set of the MOOG bushings (I didn't realize they came in pairs). The pic is from my phone, so it sort of sucks.



http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...od=MOOG-K90587
I think you made your point... they are certainly split.
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
I think you made your point... they are certainly split.
I thought that would be conclusive. And no, I didn't plan to have these on hand for this exhibition.
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Old 02-04-2010, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 2slow
It also just so happened that I had an extra set of the MOOG bushings (I didn't realize they came in pairs).
Ha, I made the same mistake. FWIW, when I pulled my old ones, they weren't even noticeably worn....so throwing new ones in probably did very little, if anything.
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ridinwitha35
Ha, I made the same mistake. FWIW, when I pulled my old ones, they weren't even noticeably worn....so throwing new ones in probably did very little, if anything.
Mine were pretty good condition when removed; it was unnecessary, just like your replacement.

Oh, Rochester, apply liberal quantities of your favorite grease to the bushings' ID.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 2slow
Mine were pretty good condition when removed; it was unnecessary, just like your replacement.

Oh, Rochester, apply liberal quantities of your favorite grease to the bushings' ID.
Will do. But seeing as it's winter, these will just get added to the pile-of-stuff until April, when my mechanic will be doing the suspension & brake install.
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 2slow
Oh, Rochester, apply liberal quantities of your favorite grease to the bushings' ID.
Silicone grease come with the bushings.
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Will do. But seeing as it's winter, these will just get added to the pile-of-stuff until April, when my mechanic will be doing the suspension & brake install.
all the stuff you're talking about doing is very DIY, very very simple...
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:36 AM
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Wow that's all good and dandy but I really encourage folks to learn to work on their vehicles themselve, cause that money spent on paying the mechanic coulda been money spent on another mod......
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:48 AM
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I work in the automotive industry and we assemble 6 different front end cradles for different manufacturers and every FSB we add to a cradle has a split bushing. Reason is, it takes 3 seconds to install, whereas a non split bushing would take to long. When every second counts in manufacturing, a split bushing saves money during assembly.

And if i am not mistaken, all the splits point towards the front of the car.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Will do. But seeing as it's winter, these will just get added to the pile-of-stuff until April, when my mechanic will be doing the suspension & brake install.
Drive the short distance to my place, and I'll help you with the install, save you a ton of money on labor. Then next time you'll know how to do it yourself.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
Drive the short distance to my place, and I'll help you with the install, save you a ton of money on labor. Then next time you'll know how to do it yourself.
That's very tempting, Ray. I wouldn't mind hanging out for a day with you and Ghost54. I'm sure Jim could be talked into driving down with a few bottles of wine. And I did just get my enhanced NY drivers license that's supposed to get me over the border without a passport.

If I didn't already have access to a trusted mechanic, I'd be all over this offer. It's still 2 months away... so I'm going to hold off on an answer for a little bit, if that's OK.

But it could be a fun day. Hmm...
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
Drive the short distance to my place, and I'll help you with the install, save you a ton of money on labor. Then next time you'll know how to do it yourself.
Good idea ; and I never express myself with emoticons.

With a decent set of tools, the FSM and some time (~1 day for your suspension refresh) this work isn't too bad.

Last edited by 2slow; 02-06-2010 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:54 AM
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I can also call a bunch of the local TO members to come by, ghost is like 5 minutes away from me so I'm sure he'd be all over this too. But ya, if you want to give me a shout in a few months when you are ready we can compare schedules if you feel like it.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by knight_yyz
I can also call a bunch of the local TO members to come by, ghost is like 5 minutes away from me so I'm sure he'd be all over this too. But ya, if you want to give me a shout in a few months when you are ready we can compare schedules if you feel like it.
This actually has a strong possibility to it. My wife thinks I should drive up, just because it would be a fun little adventure. She has a good point - I've never run across another modded Maxima down here in Rochester. It would be a rewarding road trip... drive up before sunrise on a Saturday, hang with other org members, mod my car, and crash at a local Marriott or something. Heck, find a nice restaurant, and the steaks would be on me.

A few months away, yeah, but now I'm thinking this would be fun.

How do you do this stuff, Knight... do you have a lift? What do you do about alignment after the strut install? And what do you do about unintended repairs? By that I mean, 3 of my 4 calipers are original.
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:19 PM
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I do it the old fashioned way. I have a driveway, and a box full of tools. LOL no garage, just a nice 3 ton jack and some good quality jack stands. I actually haven't done struts or springs, I usually refer people who ask me to do that to go to a garage because of alignment issues. But I have noticed on my car that all the times I have had my suspension apart I have never really needed an alignment.

I have no problems doing the end links, bushings, and brakes though, 99% of the time it isn't much work.

I do get nervous sometimes doing really big jobs, especially on a maxima, because if something does brake I don't have access to a bunch of jobbing shops that can deliver me parts on demand and Nissan parts departments are never open on Saturday or Sunday.

If your calipers are not seized, I usually just take the rubber seals off the slider pins, clean them up best i can, re grease them with special CRC synthetic grease, and put everything back together. I've done brake jobs on about 8 local maximas, and I've done mine at least 4 times, so it's a piece of cake for me.

There have been one or two occasions when I had to send someone home without repairing the car because of complications. One guy with a 6th gen asked me to replace his RSB. The car was only a few years old so I figured the end links would come off no problem. The damn things wouldn't budge, so he went home and bought new moogs and came back the next week. We hacked off the old ones and installed the progress RSB with no problem after that.

If you feel nervous about it, don't worry, I won't be offended if you take a pass on it.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Guys, I'm bumping this thread because I started a similar discussion in a noob's thread, and think I blatantly post-whored it. Feel bad, but anyway... the info is better positioned here.
Hey! The noob has a name! k?thx

I forgive you for being a *****, no harm no foul

I could use all the information given to me. I'm saving this page becuase I could use this info in the near future.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by avciugroar
Hey! The noob has a name! k?thx

I forgive you for being a *****, no harm no foul

I could use all the information given to me. I'm saving this page becuase I could use this info in the near future.
Oops. That's usually not something I say. Don't like the word noob... shouldn't have used it. I apologize and will try harder to avoid it in the future.

"I forgive you for being a *****." Classic. We should have t-shirts made up with that slogan.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:56 PM
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I replaced my fwb bushings around 130k miles and I felt no difference in steering response. This was a very easy mod though, my old bushings didn't even look that bad. Oh well it never hurts to replace an old part...
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:14 PM
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The ES Bushings arrived today. 23mm, in black. They came with a little tube of grease, also branded as an Energy Suspension product, which is kind of interesting. And yes, as you can see here, they're split open for installation.

For now, they just go on the corner pile, affectionately known around the house as Dad's Car Parts.

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Old 02-10-2010, 06:05 PM
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all their bushings come with grease...
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