hard knocking noise when going WOT
the only thing i could think of replacing right now besides the mounts.. is the wheel bearings and hubs... i'm getting a slight humming noise as the speed increases... i've this problem on my s2000 in the rear so its sounding familiar...faint..but familiar...
thats why i figured i would replace those.. i dont think there is anything wrong with other stuff... so i normally dont replace until things go wrong...
but in my years of being a mechanic.. both in the Army and out... preventative maintenance is the best maintenance...If you up keep things, less things to go wrong...
not worried about this maxima so much at all.. but on a turbo s2000, its crucial...
thats why i figured i would replace those.. i dont think there is anything wrong with other stuff... so i normally dont replace until things go wrong...
but in my years of being a mechanic.. both in the Army and out... preventative maintenance is the best maintenance...If you up keep things, less things to go wrong...
not worried about this maxima so much at all.. but on a turbo s2000, its crucial...
i'm wondering if that maybe my next project then...I'd like to go ahead and replace the wheel bearings whether i need them or not...
but that's in due time... first i wanna make sure the mounts fix my issue...
did you by any chance dyno the headers and bolts on FIRST before you tuned? becuase i'm wondering how much more power did the tune make after the initial install of headers and stuff.
but that's in due time... first i wanna make sure the mounts fix my issue...
did you by any chance dyno the headers and bolts on FIRST before you tuned? becuase i'm wondering how much more power did the tune make after the initial install of headers and stuff.

Run one is stock, run 5 is headers no tune, run 9 is headers tuned, run 12 is spacers and 06 tranny swap tuned.
I had my brakes and rotors all replaced at the same time, but it would be between 400-500, your looking at approx. 90.00 each for the bearings they will need to be pressed in so another 80.00 a couple hours shop time approx. 90.00 per hour and then another 100.00 for an alignment ... just ball park numbers Rochester but you get the idea.
I had my brakes and rotors all replaced at the same time, but it would be between 400-500, your looking at approx. 90.00 each for the bearings they will need to be pressed in so another 80.00 a couple hours shop time approx. 90.00 per hour and then another 100.00 for an alignment ... just ball park numbers Rochester but you get the idea.
Tuning also helps in making the overall engine perform at its peak performance, improving fuel efficiency by tuning the air to gas mix, so tuning isn't always about horse power and torque.
Nothing I have done after the headers has improved PEAK horsepower, but look at the range between 2k and 5K and see the difference. The spacers I'm talking abut are the NWP phenolic spacers
http://www.nwpengineering.com/Phenol...rs.html#VQ35DE
And here's the whole, huge development thread from start to finish:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ent-vq35s.html
And here's my thread from this summer. I gave those spacers a long, hard look before pulling the trigger. Very, very happy that I did.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...p-spacers.html
Yeah i see the graphs. Where did u get the car tuned? I dont have a dyno graph of my turbo s2k but it literally has such a straight line u could write ur name on it. But i have a full aem 1052-u stand alone. Overall does the tune make the car feel that much better and powerful? Or is it the buttdyno and psychological mind thinking its improved. Again i see the graph but its not smooth. But then again the stock run wasnt either
it's not a flat line because of the VIAS butterfly. Dips at opening and closing.
Car was tuned in Burlington Ontario, DL motorsports. And yes it feels way more powerful through the low end and midrange. I can light up the tires in second and third.
Car was tuned in Burlington Ontario, DL motorsports. And yes it feels way more powerful through the low end and midrange. I can light up the tires in second and third.
I think i've heard of DL motorsports... A couple of s2000's were tuned from there and i dont remember lines looking like that...I'm assuming its just the maxima then.
I do definately see the gains though and man thats so promising. How do you like your emanage? I was debating on doing the techno square and just having it reflashed...Obviously an individual tune from a piggy back would be the most beneficial because as you would know, all cars are different.
I'm auto, and if your lighting up the tires in 2nd and 3rd, i better get the valve body mod because my tranny is gonna die lol... my first maxima did the same which was an 02 and my tranny that came with the car died...this is my 2nd tranny.. its a low mileage tranny and works like its supposed to so i think i should take the step to do the valve body mod and have it rebuilt to shift quicker...specially with gains like yours..
Do you know or remember the name of the dyno that DL motorsports uses? judging by ur numbers i'm assuming dynojet or something similar...
if its a dynodynamics, i'd be going crazy happy because that is one of the lowest reading dyno's..also known as the heart break dyno...if you can push those numbers on THAT dyno... then i will Bow gracefully to ya hahahaha..
well u are one of my inspirations and i cant wait to do this. because techincally your pushing over 300 to the crank.
so let me ask.. the intake manifold spacers... i haven't clicked on the links yet, but i'm assuming its the same method to taking it off as if your gonna change the rear spark plugs right? because i did this and it took me 20 min to do... and i can do it all at once.
DL motorsports uses a dynojet. And there are always neons and s2000's and mr2's getting turbos slapped on their cars there. I even saw a turbo viper there pushing 900 whp when I went for my last tune.
I'm pretty sure the jaggedness of the lines is the ecu pulling timing, but maybe an all motor guru can step in to confirm that
I'm pretty sure the jaggedness of the lines is the ecu pulling timing, but maybe an all motor guru can step in to confirm that
DL motorsports uses a dynojet. And there are always neons and s2000's and mr2's getting turbos slapped on their cars there. I even saw a turbo viper there pushing 900 whp when I went for my last tune.
I'm pretty sure the jaggedness of the lines is the ecu pulling timing, but maybe an all motor guru can step in to confirm that
I'm pretty sure the jaggedness of the lines is the ecu pulling timing, but maybe an all motor guru can step in to confirm that
i'm looking at the phenolic spacers, ssim, and the block off plate as well..
just wondering if its really worth all of it..
custom intake, cattman headers, cattman fastcat, cattman exhaust, fidanza flywheel, stage 1 clutch, spacers, and a tune. I have a custom short ram BBMAF hybrid with flow stack, larger injectors and a block off plate to install next year.
UPDATE!!!
So... today... i replaced 2 driveshafts.. one on my s2000 and the other on another s2000... felt like a being a mechanic today... sun started to shine.. felt pretty good..
around 330 i decided to tackle the polyurethane mounts that i bought and install them..
Install them i did and WOW...
1) in the first initial start up, i can feel the whole car shake
2) when idling, the car vibrates pretty good...
3) BUT MAN when i push the gas even just a tad, the car just GOES.. there is no delay anymore.. it feels like loss power has suddenly been found! and when i cruising and push the gas.. NO delay..
HOWEVER... i'm still getting that knocking and its worse.. i looked to see the exhaust and it seems pretty close to things so i'm assuming its that..
as a matter of fact, the exhaust in the rear has been pushed up somehow..wasnt me for sure.. probably the previous owner... but all i know is in january i'm gonna replace everything anyways with all bolt on's.. and i'm hoping that'll fix the problem
but overall i'd say i'm happy with the poly mounts so far. when cruising i can't tell... hell even just RIGHT above idling.. i can't tell until i push the gas to go... just........goes! love it!!
i can see this helping tremendously with the upcoming mods and the transgo shift kit later to make sure it shifts crisp and smoove
So... today... i replaced 2 driveshafts.. one on my s2000 and the other on another s2000... felt like a being a mechanic today... sun started to shine.. felt pretty good..
around 330 i decided to tackle the polyurethane mounts that i bought and install them..
Install them i did and WOW...
1) in the first initial start up, i can feel the whole car shake
2) when idling, the car vibrates pretty good...
3) BUT MAN when i push the gas even just a tad, the car just GOES.. there is no delay anymore.. it feels like loss power has suddenly been found! and when i cruising and push the gas.. NO delay..
HOWEVER... i'm still getting that knocking and its worse.. i looked to see the exhaust and it seems pretty close to things so i'm assuming its that..
as a matter of fact, the exhaust in the rear has been pushed up somehow..wasnt me for sure.. probably the previous owner... but all i know is in january i'm gonna replace everything anyways with all bolt on's.. and i'm hoping that'll fix the problem
but overall i'd say i'm happy with the poly mounts so far. when cruising i can't tell... hell even just RIGHT above idling.. i can't tell until i push the gas to go... just........goes! love it!!
i can see this helping tremendously with the upcoming mods and the transgo shift kit later to make sure it shifts crisp and smoove
Shame the bushings didn't resolve your banging. But on the other hand, now you've got rocking awesome mount bushings, and you clearly like them.
I'm sure the knock will go away once your position your new exhaust.
Glad to hear all this, MidN1te. Sounds like things are coming together nicely.
I'm sure the knock will go away once your position your new exhaust.
Glad to hear all this, MidN1te. Sounds like things are coming together nicely.
Once those new bushing have a chance to settle in you will hardly even notice that vibration when you first start up at idle, mine seems quit gentle now from my first impressions ... and yes the car sure does respond as you now have all the drive power going straight to the ground, without the front end lift and wheel spin just pure traction it sure is a joy to feel.
Once those new bushing have a chance to settle in you will hardly even notice that vibration when you first start up at idle, mine seems quit gentle now from my first impressions ... and yes the car sure does respond as you now have all the drive power going straight to the ground, without the front end lift and wheel spin just pure traction it sure is a joy to feel.
i can't wait to do the full bolt ons then flash then finally the transgo shift kit!
with this polymod, i'm sure i'll get every bit of power quickly to the ground
oh i forgot to mention... the condition of the mounts
the back one was moving just a tad... i could barely move it but it was movable.. had some cracks..
the front one? omg... i could wiggle it back and forth.. seriously. it wasnt even cracked.. it was just straight up broken lol... only the middle was clinging on lol
the back one was moving just a tad... i could barely move it but it was movable.. had some cracks..
the front one? omg... i could wiggle it back and forth.. seriously. it wasnt even cracked.. it was just straight up broken lol... only the middle was clinging on lol
maybe there is a way to finagle something up to prevent that from happening..
now that my engine mounts are in.. this does it all the time! its weird!
ok... gonna go jack up the car again today and see where it could be broken, and if i can rig it somehow..
so far.. i'm enjoying the mounts so much! feels like the car has power again.. obviously from the fact its getting to the ground more efficiently...but i love it!
so far.. i'm enjoying the mounts so much! feels like the car has power again.. obviously from the fact its getting to the ground more efficiently...but i love it!
UPDATE:!!!!
soooooooooo As Knight suggest it was, he was correct..
the hanger is still there.. the rubber is still there.. and i can see where the flex flange is broken towards the front side near the y pipe..
the part where it connects to the flange on the exhaust has a place where it appears to be a welded nut and a bolt would go through the rubber and screw into the welded nut..
i kept pushing the exhaust up and its slapping against the metal hangers holding the rubber...
So .... i just took a coat hanger, pushed the exhaust up, pushed the coat hanger through both holes, wrapped it around the flex flange and the 2 hangers holding the rubber bushing, then back into the opposit side of the hole.. and just twisted the ends til it was nice and tight..
verdict? IT WORKED lol.. no knocking no nothing..
this is just temporary until i get the new headers and ypipe and exhaust and stuff.....
i can almost say all i need was just a bolt to screw into the holes into the welded nut and thats it. but i didnt have any...and didnt feel like playing the guessing game
now there is definately no noise, the mounts make the car SO much more enjoyable now... i love it!!!
soooooooooo As Knight suggest it was, he was correct..
the hanger is still there.. the rubber is still there.. and i can see where the flex flange is broken towards the front side near the y pipe..
the part where it connects to the flange on the exhaust has a place where it appears to be a welded nut and a bolt would go through the rubber and screw into the welded nut..
i kept pushing the exhaust up and its slapping against the metal hangers holding the rubber...
So .... i just took a coat hanger, pushed the exhaust up, pushed the coat hanger through both holes, wrapped it around the flex flange and the 2 hangers holding the rubber bushing, then back into the opposit side of the hole.. and just twisted the ends til it was nice and tight..
verdict? IT WORKED lol.. no knocking no nothing..
this is just temporary until i get the new headers and ypipe and exhaust and stuff.....
i can almost say all i need was just a bolt to screw into the holes into the welded nut and thats it. but i didnt have any...and didnt feel like playing the guessing game

now there is definately no noise, the mounts make the car SO much more enjoyable now... i love it!!!
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