I understand that the motor mounts for an auto maxima can be changed to motor mounts from a standard trans maxima along with polyurethane inserts. I priced the mounts for an auto trans and they are $220 for the front and $85 for rear.

Instead of buying used mounts from a manual trans,then buy the inserts, finally have a machine shop fit the inserts in there; can I not just buy new OEM motor mounts for a manual trans maxima and put those on my auto?
(they should run about $85 a piece saving me $135 for the front)

thanks...

2002 SE
Automatic

 

I don't see why not. It is the same end result.

 

If your thoughts were to use a New front engine mount for an automatic you will not be able to find a polyurethane ES bushing to fit as they are not made that large. On my automatic I have an insert that was pressed into my stock front mount and then the bushing was pressed in.

this is the front oem mount with the insert pressed in and then the ES bushing:


Don't forget while your changing things to perhaps change the smaller sub bushing as well to ES bushings on the bottom and top of the cross member:




this is the rear oem engine mount with the ES bushing pressed in:


Note: the above work was done by a fellow member (knight_yyz).
So I would save your money on buying the New front mount as there is no bushing to fit it (unless you have someone that can perform the surgery that was done on mine). I see no reason why you can't use a second rear mount as the front unless the front mount is slightly larger for a reason which is to maintain the correct engine orientation to the automatic transmission.

I would suggest that you may wish to PM (knight_yyz) this question to be sure that using a second rear mount is NOT going to effect the engines orientation.

Just an added notation: The above crossmember was purchased for approx 120.00, from a car being parted out, as knight_yyz was setting up an exchanged install for the guys up here in the Toronto area, in order to get the exchange going on the automatics some one had to be first. So sucking up the extra cost for the replacement crossmember and giving him one to work with he was able to get the exchange going.

I would suggest you may want to check out some auto wreckers or even some of the part outs on the site here before putting out the cost for brand New Engine Mounts.

 

You can get all 4 mounts of ebay for $100. The inserts they come with are *** at best but you mainly just need the manual brackets as you are going to be putting the ES inserts in. Get the brackets off ebay and swap the crap that comes with them out and press in the new ones. Viola you just saved over $100 on the mounts.

 

I think automatics have different mounts than the manual ones

 

+1...to the question asked. Manual motor mounts with the "default" inserts should work.

 

Sorry for the confusion on my part and not being as clear as I intended. I have a 2002 SE Automatic Maxima. What I would like to do is avoid buying the manual motor mount brackets, buy the poly inserts, and have them pressed at a machine shop.

I think that if I just buy brand spanking new manual transmission motor mounts for my automatic trans vehicle that I would get the same end result as if I had bought the manual motor mount brackets, poly inserts......

So can I use brand spanking new (OEM) manual transmission motor mounts on my automatic trans maxima? (and use the same crossmember)

Many members are going with the poly inserts for their "auto trans" but why not just use OEM manual mounts that come complete with bracket?



thanks......

2002 SE
Automatic

 

just use the factory ones.... I was going to change mine to a manual insert and adding all up came to the same $$$$. It sucks but AT bushings cost more than the manual ones... so good luck on your decision.

 

Put OEM manual mounts, polys have no play in them. Manual mounts have play and help keep the vibration low. No play in mounts is good for street racing.

 

I need to replace the mounts on my 2k auto. I went ahead and got the stock ones from Dave B. Total around $500. Should be easy to replace though as they are stock and will be direct fit with no fooling around.

Final decision is yours, but it sounds like a lot of work to go to manual mounts or ES bushings. Personally I don't have the free time to mess with all of that, you might. Savings would be a few hundred dollars I would imagine.

 

OEM ones are a dramatically much more expensive option. Like the guy above me said, he spent $500 on them. Then he will have to pay for install, ~$200, unless he does it himself. So if you go his route you will be spending ~ $700.

OR you can do what I said. Buy the ebay manual brackets, insert poly into them, and you're set. The poly manual mounts will be much stronger than the OEMs, they are a really good UPGRADE.

The ebay brackets cost ~$100, ES bushings cost ~$90, and you can get the job done for a little less than ~225 depending on where you go. Mine cost $150 to install, keep in mind you only need the front and back.

So the max you'll pay will be around $400 total maybe as low as $350.

Both of which are MUCH lower than the $700 for OEMs.

 

I understand you are wishing to replace the engine mounts with ES bushings on your 2002 automatic. The problem you are going to run into is the front mount on the automatic has an electronic motor and therefore the front mount is larger than the availability sizes of the ES bushings ... as I have noted in my previous response, you can see that I had a fellow tool and die maker makeup a special aluminum insert to reduce the size of the front engine mount to accommodate the ES bushing and maintain the engines orientation to the transmission. That is why I referred you to contacting knight_yyz (a fellow member) so you can get a better understanding of your options with replacing your automatic engine mounts.

 

I do appreciate the feedback I am getting from everyone about this topic. I called the local Nissan dealer and they quoted me the following.
Front mount for manual $107.00 (crossmember)
The back manual mount is $93.00 (crossmember)
I guess the labor would be roughly 2.0 hrs.
So I am thinking I can have my cake and eat it too for $400 bucks...=)

 

why the switch to ES engine mounts, 1. to stabilize the engines movement.
2. to assist in removing wheel hop. 3. to assist in removing torque stir. 4. to deliver a better positive torque straight to the wheel and the ground. Just a few examples of the why.

video 1. notice the engine movement at wot on stock oem mounts:
http://upload.streetfire.net/video/Sent ... 111916.htm

video 2. 03 Max auto with headers and intake on stock mounts, notice the engine movement at wot:
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/l...2Skidzrun3.flv

video 3. 03 Max 6spd with all the bolts on's, headers-spacers-intake tuned, (long list on this one), notice no engine movement at wot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us7FO-AhN64

When you see just how much engine lift there is at wot, it really leaves little wonder why our cars have such bad wheel hop ... stabilizing the engines movement and forcing all the torque to go straight to the wheels and ground is one of the many benefits of the installing of ES bushings.

 

I wish you would read my post, you're about to not get the best bang for your buck at all. But go ahead waste your money.

 

your are going to replace soggy OEM automatic mounts, for soggy OEM manual mounts. If you are going to swap you should go with the ES bushings. Otherwise, just keep the auto mounts. I doubt you will notice a difference. The manual mounts are liquid filled, just like the auto mounts. Only difference is the auto's can be made stiffer with a mechanism inside. The manual mounts are always soggy.

 

Why spend all that money on a new mount that you're gonna use the frame! Go to the bone yard and pull off some 4th and 5th gen manual front mounts and call it the day $10....Cut your ES bushing in half to make life easier, no press needed!

 

You did the right thing by putting OEM manual mounts inplace of ES mounts. I have manual mounts on my auto, the prices quoted by stealership is very reasonable, though I sourced the mounts from DaveB and replaced them at a local shop. Trust me you will love your vehicle once the old fart auto mounts are replaced.

 

I don't think the OP is looking at this with the same set of priorities. He appears to be driven by cost over value. And since "value" is subjective... well, there it is.

You and Ghost54 said your piece very well. Particularly Ghost... dude, you went selflessly above and beyond on this topic. Hopefully it will be valued by other people researching into this thread.

If you like an aggressive ride, then solid poly ES mount bushings are one of the best mods you can do for this car. Hands down.

 

You don't need a new back mount!!!! The ES bushing will fit the auto rears,.....It's the front mount you need only! They can be obtained from a 1995-03 manual trans car for roughly $10-$15 at a local salvage yard!

 

Was only trying to make the point that on a Automatic Transmission car the engine mounts are very different than those on a manual car. The front mount in particular is not only larger than the available sizes of ES bushing and it has a built in motor for softening and stiffing. I included some picture's to show the options that can be used in order to switch from the OEM mounts to ES bushings. The work that was performed on mine by knight_yyz is quit unique in its own right, and I was trying to provide the OP with the members name should he wish to consult his options further.

I know we all look for the most economical way to perform a mod, but some times there is not taking short cuts to try and save a dollar. If your going to do a mod then do it with all the information you can find, and above all do the mod once and do it the right way.

 

Yeah man seriously. If he is going to switch the manual mounts the mods needs to be done properly. Its not like he just wants to get them fixed, hes half assing it. Hopefully he takes our advice.

 

All the man wanted to know is if OEM manual mounts would work in place of OEM auto mounts so he could save a little money.

Obviously by reading his original post he already knew about the poly inserts, but instead wanted to go the manual OEM route. I mean dont get me wrong, the other advice is nice and all, but seriously, let the man do what he wants and what he originally asked for and stop bs'ing him to try and get him to do what you think he should do.

Surprising as it may be, not everyone on this forum is looking for performance mods and/or upgrades so they beat can on their Max more.

 

You are correct sir, and I do believe through a number of the reply's the OP did get his answer and post #17 said it best. By going to manual mounts on an automatic the OP will loose the mechanism (electronic motor) that stiffens the front mount when the engine is under load and softens when the car is at idle.

I believe there was some interest in having polyurethane inserts but was not made clear if that was going to be the final objective, so I was attempting to give the options that are available when it comes to swapping the engine mounts. If all that is wanted is to swap OEM auto mounts to OEM manual mounts then yes one can do that but as I said you would loose the feature on the front mount that stiffens when under load, Which would pose me to ask the question of why would you want to swap the mounts in the first place? the only reason would be if you have badly worn or busted mounts in the first place.

 

Most people just unplug there electric motor mounts on an auto anyways due to many reported cases of the liquid leaking out and frying ECU's, so what difference would it make if he bought the manual mounts just to save a little money?

And for the record, I've had mine unplugged for well over a year now and felt no difference whatsoever. Scientifically it makes sense, but in reality, you can hardly tell the difference, if at all.

 

Once again I do appreciate the feedback I am getting from everyone about this topic. When I purchased my auto 2002 max I immediately logged in to this forum because I knew I would get the best advice I can find from you'all if I ever needed something.

Cost is a priority to me and I can see the great points made on this thread to side for the OEM manual mounts or the ES inserts.

option#1 (dealer quote for OEM manual trans)
Front mount = $107.00
Rear mount = $93.00
for a total of $200.00

option#2 (quote for manual trans MOD)
Front manual mount = $20.00 at a junk yard
Rear auto mount is $Free99 since I can still use my existing "auto trans mount". ( I was not aware of this)
ES inserts $90.00 for the deuce

for a total of $110.00

Is that right or did I fail this math class?

 

option 2 is the route you need to choose.
and yes only the front auto mount needs to be replaced from an auto to a manual one. Rear mount is the same no matter what trans.

 

and a few bucks to a shop to press out the old mounts.

GLE's GXE's and 5th gen infinitis have two motorized mounts.

 

I always thought that all 5th gen Automatic Nissans had 2 "motorized" mounts too. A post on this thread suggests that only the front one is electronicaly controlled. Is that true only for Automatic SE's?

EDIT: I'm assuming that by "motorized" you meant what we call electric mounts, or what the FSM calls "electronically controlled" mount. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yes the front mount on my 03 SE had just the electronic mount

 

so on my i35 will i need to change both mounts? or just the front one?

*edit* i found my answer as i read this thread from the beginning.

 

The FSM and "courtesy parts" is showing that both front and rear are electric for AT. And that would make sense to be able to manipulate the vibration from both sides (soft to stiff) on the sub-frame.
Both sides have wire connectors, which hook up with leads into ECU.

On different thread most guys are stating unpluging them does not affect ride, nor throws codes, most of them are trying to prevent damage to ECU when these electric mounts do go bad.

I think if they have not gone bad, the choice is about performance vs comfort for the ride (excluding cost), ES does make the ride much stiffer, obviously, that is the point, but for some of us with long commutes, it might be a thought out decision to make. I drive 75 miles a day on mine, and here in Houston Freeways are bumpie as ****, a stiffer rid eon the long run might not be what one is looking for.

Thank everybody for the inputs

 

I know this thread is a dead horse but, has any attention been paid to claims of manual mounts possibly miss-aligning the engine and tranny? I have an 03TE auto and was considering ES inserts. Does anyone have the manual mount with ES inserts on an auto? Have you had any problems? Sorry not trying to thread jack.

 

i just got oem mounts i thinking of filling them with 3m window weld