mine line up fine...

 

Seriously? Because me and several other users have put them on our cars. And the fitment is perfect.

 

Point being both have their pros and cons. For cattman it's the price, for obx it's the quality, which even though not cattman quality, is still pretty good if you get the right set that's made for your car. It's going to come down to money for most people. Hell, If I could have gotten cattman without breaking my budget like I said before, I would have pulled the trigger asap. However for people who can not afford the money, Obx is still one hell of a good choice.

 

Let's put that money down, i'd be willing to make a few quick bucks. hahahaha

 

Did you measure or do they just look lined up fine? Just a tiny overhang goes a long way, you'd need to measure using something like machinist's dye and a paper filter to really tell. If it was far enough out of whack to see just looking at it, the car would barely run.

I'd guess that they got the spacing right and they line up well, though. It's very easy to take a gasket and make a template out of it for the flanges.

 

Fitment in a fundamental sense, ie having it line up with the studs/flanges is not a hard task for a company to master. Not sure why Dave is gonna try and hate on that.

 

How do you know they line up, you can't see that unless they are off the car that exhaust ports on the head make a clean transition into the exhaust header.

just cause it bolts up doesn't mean it lines perfectly up to the exhaust port

Just making a point. You guys can buy what you want, just making a point to say that.

 

that and they use the wrong size piping from what I gathered

 

i doubt it, the OBX lack of size would probably help it with down low torque compared to the cattman units. It was just the cars u were driving.

 

and which dumbass is gonna use OBX headers?

 

I believe the primary piping is the same diameter as cattman uses. The Y-pipe is where the disparity in piping diameter was.

I'll have to loosely agree with the others, though. They probably just used a gasket to make the flanges then based piping diameter off of that, so it should be decent. It's not likely they're made that badly. Sure cheap collectors here, small flex section there, but major design flaws were probably not included.

 

Who is gonna put headers on a sedan anyway? Its SOO pointless..........

 

I've been asking myself that more and more lately. Less so the sedan thing, and more so the FWD and limited potential part. Although these cars can easily achieve deep 12s on a low budget, it's still a FWD sedan at the end of the day.

Oh well, at least we get to be different. My 12-13 second Maxima gathers much bigger crowds in the staging lanes trying to peak under my hood than the 9-second F-body sitting next to me just because of the WTF factor.

 

Exact reason why I stopped modding my car. It's fun for now. The headers gave me power like i'm sure most of the people who bought them wanted. They received what they wanted. Me however unlike some on here am not planning on keeping my car much longer (6 months give or take) Which is why I didn't bother buying "top line mods" because I was looking for the power for now and I received that. The fwd thing really made me question paying $700.00 for headers, and no.. I didn't get my obx for 400 either, it was far FAR cheaper than that for those wondering. Hence why I even got headers on a sedan. I'm saving up for some rwd fish tails, now that... Will be awesome..

 

clearly it was an exaggeration to say that you have way more power mods than i do................. btw did you ever beat jaypee's times??? werent yall rivals???

picture and number arent valid but when u have pictures, numbers and videos and they are not valid, then what makes "I THINK" more valid than those??? what will ever be valid???

dude you've used the same joke twice and nobody laughed STFU

again my comments was clear as day as to whome they were directed towards, if Jime, aaron92SE, or any boosted max wants to run thats cool, its not like ive never lost a race in my life, nor do i care if i loose to them, my call out was straight forward and doesnt need to be repeated, now what moron couldnt get the what i was saying in my call out.......... maxima.org is sofa-kingdom lol

 

What type of idiot puts 3.0 headers on a 3.5?



my money is on the 6spd. stock for stock and mod for mod they are proven faster. thats just fact, not sure on ur skillz at the track but u seem to run the norm in times, so u will be counting on driver error just sayin.....

 

Well... I'll be the first to say... I have obx headers... And I love them. Okay, sweeeeeetttt. I'd LOVE cattman too. Shoot. I love beeting g35's and 350z's too. Fwd, eh not soo much. How bout we all just put all this behind us and never ever bring up another headers thread EVER on the org eh??? New sticky, NO MORE HEADER THREADS!

 

nah **** that, these header threads must live. they are keeping my *** entertained....people arguing over proven information means i can come in and post like im a fool.

 

does it ******* matter??? there is (i dont even remember cause im tipsy) whatever amount of head studs and when you finish your install and there is a bolt on all head studs and the header between the bolt and head studs then does it really ******* matter... no seriously............................ cattmans are great fitment and im sure nobody knocked that but when somebody makes the most pointless topic about "AWW MAN MY CATTMAN FITS GREAT, BRO" nobody mentions OBX right, then why the **** when somebody makes an OBX or ebay thread then some dumb sas has to come on saying "AWW MAN LEMME SUCK BRIANS DCIK CAUSE HIS HEADERS FIT GREAT"

 

^ With that post Grand hustle is my new best friend

 

ahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha hahaahhhhaaaaa

DAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
He Totally just : ALL of you LMFAO!

 

I really don't see why this is even worth discussion.

It seems like people keep making up BS claims about how crappy the OBX headers are just to justify them spending $400 more for a set of Cattman headers. I'm not referring to anyone in particular, just the thread in general.

There has been no back to back dyno with the same car and same dyno comparing both types of headers so any speculation on power gain discrepancies is purely nonsense.

I'm sure the Cattman design had more R&D, but just because something costs more doesn't mean it performs any better, or that the extra cost is worth the small gain in performance.

DatDude20 put down something like 247whp with his OBX headers. I'm sure there are some people with Cattman headers who put down lower numbers, and some who put down higher numbers. Any difference between OBX and Cattman headers is well within the margin of error for the dyno itself anyway...you see?

And people need to stop hating on the fact that the OBX are made in China. I've had my headers on for 8 months now and as of today they have no surface rust at all, just some discoloration and I live in New Jersey, so they have been exposed to road salt all winter.

The material is REAL stainless steel and it is thick enough to be a PITA to drill through for an o2 bung. (Ask me how I know)

And unless anyone has made measurements of the pipe thickness with a micrometer, no one can say the Cattman's are any thicker. (I wouldn't be surprised if they were though)

Maybe the Cattman's are marginally thicker so they will last longer, but I don't see how it matters.

Say the Cattman's last 5 years and the OBX last 3 years.

It would still be cheaper to buy the OBX headers because I could buy two sets that would last a total of 6 years. This would give me one more year than the Cattman's and still cost less. I realize this doesn't apply to everyone because not everyone wants to swap out headers again, but for people with access to a lift and enjoy working, this wouldn't be a problem.

As far as the flange ports matching the heads...

1. What makes you think that these wouldn't match?
2. What makes you think the Cattman's match any better?

I'm sure they used the OEM gasket as a template and that is PERFECTLY FINE!

Considering most people use the OEM gasket, there would be no problem at all, because even if the ports on the flange were bigger, they would still be restricted by the port size of the gasket.

You see, there is a law called the law of diminishing returns.

This law can apply to headers for the Maxima.

For example, the first $400 investment for headers will yield a gain of 20whp. (OBX)

Now the next $400 invested will not yield another 20whp, but more like 2 or three. (CM)

From an economical point of view, the OBX are actually the better investment.

And what's with the "I will beat you in a race" crap? This isn't a Honda forum.

P.S... I will beat you all with my dad's ZR1

 

man damn, now people are writing books on maxima headers....

 

Ya know, Dave and I had a private conversation talking about this, and he said "judging by OBX's history it wouldn't surprise me that they were off by 0.001" or something"

Dave is "just making a point" in this thread so I'm going to "make a point" of my own.

What people spend their money on is upto them, and he also said that "Cattman headers made 5whp more than the v2OBX version."

How significant is 5whp on a dyno? You see 5whp variations between temperatures, between different dynos and even just different pulls. Even if you pulled 5whp more on a set of headers that set you back an extra $600, your AFR would still be sitting at 11s with your garbage ignition timing maps and stock rev limit. Now you're either forced to wait or halfass your tuning solution by bending the **** out of your MAF signal to have your car running halfway right. That's without datalogging either.

 

aww chit there is a lot to read...f**k....

 

just saying this is a proven 10.9whp on a civic



so leaf blower+OBX headers= win?

 

Man I always used to wonder about doing that haha

 

op...see what u started? lol

 

im going to the dyno in 2 weeks im going to take my leaf blower with me

 

I used pictures to illustrate the collector design differences, and the numbers from the difference in Y-pipe diameter between the two. Don't tell me these things don't matter, and neither is just my "opinion" or what I "think."

Your pictures, numbers, and videos are great. The thing is that they don't show or prove anything in relation to this discussion other than the fact that the OBX headers provide good gains over stock in a similar manner that the cattman headers do. That is a fact that I have not contested a single time in this thread.

You have consistently assumed that I am saying OBX are bad, worse than stock, 10x worse than cattman, and junk or trash. Please get your head out of your *** and try to read what I've been saying this whole time instead of getting offended and flying off the handle. I'm agreeing with you on everything except your claim that the OBX "give the exact same gains as cattman" which is, simply stated, impossible considering the differences. The gains may be very minor (3-5whp), but they are there.

There's no possible way to dispute that a piece with 2.5" Y-pipe is going to make more power than one with a 2.25" Y-pipe. Would you also like to argue that a 2.5" exhaust will give the same power gains as a 3" exhaust? I nominate that as our next debate. You can be the guy slinging dirt and challenging me to battles in response to anything I have to say.

My claims were not BS, nor insignificant or matters of opinion. There is no justification for spending the extra money unless you just don't want to compromise while still buying off-the-shelf parts or the looks are enough to offset the price for you. As has been said many times, OBX bang for buck is unmatched by any other headers.

My point when talking about the header ports matching up was that it would be very easy for any manufacturer to make them line up good by just using a simple OEM gasket as the template. You obviously took it the wrong way thinking that I was saying OEM gaskets would make it line up badly or that it wasn't ok to do. Don't worry, I'm agreeing with you, Fido.

All true, but 5whp is 5whp. You keep adding up 1 whp here, 5whp there, etc by using the most effective mods and you will certainly see a difference. Whether it's worth the price difference (again...) is up to the consumer.

I read over the last part of the quoted post a few times, and I really can't seem to pull an actual point from it. Could you rephrase it to make sense in relation to the discussion? Of course you have to tune for headers, no matter the brand. I really don't think that means anything unless you were trying to assert that you could buy a tuning device with the money you saved on cheaper headers. In that respect, you could also have someone modify the OBX headers for a bigger diameter Y-pipe and a bigger flex section with the money you saved.

Have you ever seen a fight start because one guy made a remark and the other guy had no come back so he just started pushing/swinging?

 

Anyone care to tell me how they got the ****ing rear heat shield off? I've been fighting with it all night...

 

I'm buying either one. For that matter I never mentioned Cattman in my post btw. I just point out my observations. Everyone's numbers are all gonna be different. That said...

If I had to do the maxima game over...I'd make completely custom ones and how I would do it is in this thread BTW

 

I like ZR1s

I can't have OBX's or Cattman's on my car anymore...

I also just mention the fitment and how it may not line up because OBX are basically stamped out as many as possible and as quick as possible, not one is gonna be exactly the same as the other, but thats also true with cattmans since they are basically hand made.

People just buy what you want. In the end all of our cars will be in the junkyard by the end of next decade.

 

Told you it was a *****!!!!

I sprayed it with PB blaster... tried and tried to loosen the bolts... Only managed to round them.

I ended up getting a buddy with a torch to come over and burn those ******* off very carefully (you can definitely do damage back there...).

Other ways would be to cut them off with a dremel, possibly break the heads with a hammer and chisel. There's also a few tools that will still grab a rounded head.

 

The front I used bull cutters..... The read I used... Well.. A hammer.. Chisel.. Flat head, Some of those mini bull cutter hand held scissors, more of a hammer, long story short after the bolt became shaved, I used a Flat head, placed the flat head on each end of the bolt, and basically used the hamer to break threw the heat shield until I got the heatshield off. The shaved rusty bolt remained in Place but I just Broke the heatshielf and ripped it, and turned it, and eventually even got it out from the TOP of the car. What a pita.. talk about 2-3 hours of hell.

 

Oh, no, it's loose. I just can't get the damn thing out. It keeps getting caught on different things. Is there some sort of trick to put it at the right angle where it'll slide out?

Surprisingly, I've only had two bolts sheer, and one strip, considering the number of bolts I've had to remove.

 

Yep, I had the same 2-3 hour struggle. Took my install time from a comfortable 6-8 hours to around 10 hours all said and done. I always smile when I see someone had to or is going through the same BS that I did with those heat shields because I enjoy their suffering even more when I know how frustrating it is.

 

Oh that's easy, pull it out from the top. Bend it if you have to or move things if you have to.

 

The rear heat shield was such a PITA to remove. I mangled it with an air chisel.

Next after that was getting the actual rear manifold out of the car.

Don't remember what other hiccups that I had but I know the install took me about 8 hours. And that's with using a lift and the help of another mechanic.

 

Word. I'm getting tired. This projects going on two days now.

But that's mostly because I've had work, and I'm doing it on jack stands, which is making it terribly annoying to get at different bolts.

I'm just gonna go beat the hell out of my heat shield. I can always find another one if I ever go back to stock...