Im curious in what route I should take.... I have a 2k de-k with an auto ecu fed spec. Mods: 5 spd swap. Cattman 3" exhaust. Cattman headers. Testpipe. Intake spacers. Vias delete. Injen intake...

I want to increase the rev limiter and just have a clean tune...

Future mods is a supercharger

 

Read through this thread and your answer will be very obvious.

 

so??? im assuming its the greddy emanage ultimate??? idk, what are the pros and cons for all piggybacks for my dek? i hear alot about the 3.5 but not much about the dek???

 

The OP owns a DE-K and the majority of his info is about the DE-K. Yes, EU.

 

EU offers the best tune for our 5th gen deks, so far I haven't seen anything better for us.

 

EU would be the best option for boost. The S/VAFC wouldn't be good for a boosted car because since you're bending the airflow signal, timing will change unpredictably, and you may be indirectly adding dangerous amounts if you have big injectors which require you to lean the car out to a decent AFR.

You could also do a e-Manage Blue with the injector harness for a cheaper option, or AEM F/IC as well.

 

Where or who can I find a harness for this eu?

 

Ive read this thread and in the time i have already ordered my AEM Uego. I have a 2k GXE 5sp. I have the bolt ons DC headers, 3" Exhaust , and a regular drop in intake (used to be weapon R but was very dirty). Now which piggy back would be my best bet? I love All motor and would only do all motor mods in the future cam shafts, cam gears anything i can find. any help will be greatly appreciated and YES I AM A NOOB!

 

DC headers on a Maxima?

 

funny thing is i tried looking them up and couldn't find them either. but when i pop the hood it has the DC logo not a sticker on the header. and i am going to buy an Apexi safc2 and the unorthodox racing crank pulley in the next two weeks. then have them installed and dyno tuned in about a month hopefully less

My safc 2 seller backed out on me!! if anyone here has an safc2 for sale hit me up i'm in the market for one.

 

i have a s/c 2k maxima se what is the best piggy back on the market taking price into consideration also?

 

Pics?

Have you even done s shti bit of research? I'd go with EMU.

 

Please pardon my n00bness, as I'm still learning. Got a few questions that I hope can be answered:

1. Would you tune a bone stock 03 maxima se?

2. Does a tune without any mods, still benefit the stock performance?

3. Would you Dyno Tune it? If so how many runs? 10/20, etc...

4. Are the benefits from a tune worth the $400-500, whatever fee for the dyno tune?

5. Last but not least, would a dyno tune hold settings on the stock ECU or does the ECU go back to "stock". If so, would a Technosquare ECU be better?

Now I know it's probably obvious to wonder why in the world I'd tune when I have no mods. Well the reason is simple, and maybe even silly. But, I like the quietness of the car as it is right now. Most bolt-on mods if i'm not mistaken would make the car louder. (I envy a Turbo, but that's for much later).

So keeping alive the preference to have a quiet/stock ride but with that extra bit of juice, would be just awesome.

I was looking into getting a timing advance, a place here charges $100 for it. They'd advance it to 17*. But the guy i spoke to at the place said he wouldn't recommend it because most people aren't happy with that change.

I'm not sure if he said that because most people run lower grade gas. I always fill up with Shell Premium (93).

So, please suggest/recommend, and if possible relate to what you've done. I just want more response from the engine on the tap of the pedal. Low end torque would help out a great deal.

Thank you so much folks.

 

1.) No
2.) Probably
3.) Not more than 10, but read #1.
4.) Not on a stocker
5.) If you're referring to a piggyback/EM/SAFC, then, if you don't change anything (intake/+/- settings) no.

The reason we tune is because after significant mods, the AFR could use some conditioning.

It be an interesting experiment to do what you're thinking (AFR tune a stocker).


Also, just FYI, the stock muffler and airbox have been proven to support near 250 whp on a dynojet. I had a quest for quiet exhaust on mine and had had many resonators + the stock muffler, etc.

I gave that up for more power when I got the 3".

 

Something else to note... GL getting a TS reflash!

 

is there anyone in the nyc area that is familiar with that set up (the VAFC SET up) on a s/c 2000 maxima, because i'm told it doesn't work also by at least one speed shop.

 

Don't go back to that shop. Did they tell you it wouldn't work on a maxima because the maxima doesn't have VTEC? There are probably 100s of VAFC users on this forum. It's easy to wire in and works fine.

 

IS THERE ANYONE YOU CAN SUGGEST?????

 

Why not DIY? Plenty of info on here to help you out.

 

This may be in here already but does anyone know the airflow dial settings on the Emanage Blue when using a lrmaf?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4921445-post38.html

 

Awesome, that is what I was using already.

 

Looking at all of the Graphixz and they are all sick new photos guys

 

With those settings do you know if the ecu/eb should autocorrect and idle correctly or do I have to tune just to get a decent idle?

 

Should scale the MAF signal globally so it should be fine w/o any tuning.

 

Hmm... Perhaps those settings are wrong then?

 

Is it not working?

 

It doesn't auto correct on 7-0-0. It idles like crap and then eventually dies.

 

Lean idle?

How's your intake PCV line? Do you have a filter on the VC?

If so, eliminate it and replace the hose from the VC to the are in between the TB & MAF.

 

O it might be the PCV. I have something I gotta fix there. That may fix it. And ya it is definitely a lean idle.

 

After reading a majority of this thread I am still left with a few questions in reference to tuning a 2000 maxima.
My maxima is a 5 spd, with a custom intake (Short Ram, K&N cone), test pipe, and 2.5 tsudo catback exhaust.
I am looking to buy piggyback software to tune my max and hopefully squeeze some horsepower out of her.
My questions are as follows:
1.) All of the mentioned piggy backs are plug and play style software? And would I be able to tune my car on the street?
2.) How many senors will one need to install when buying a "wideband" system? And roughly what would be the install time if one were to DIY.
3.) I was wondering if I bought a piggy back system would I be able to have multiple say "profiles" in which I could store settings for a more economical driving experince and settings for a more sporty drive. And switch between the two on the street.
Forgive me if I am being a noob but Ive only recently been opened up to the tuning world when I realized I was running too rich with my catless exhaust.

 

I can't answer these questions 100% for an afc, but for either of the emanage units here you go:

1. The emanage units require tapping into the main ecu and there is software that comes with it. Also it is possible to log street runs with the software and then tune from there.

2. You will only need one sensor for the wideband (o2 sensor) that you will install somewhere on your exhaust. If you have equipment to weld with you can do everything yourself for this install including welding the bung into the exhaust. If you don't, you could get a shop to do it for under $20 and then the rest of the install time depends on how easy it is to wire the wideband into whatever unit you are using. Shouldn't take more than an hour.

3. I don't know much about the afc units (vafc vs. safc), but I do know that with either emanage unit you can have multiple maps for different setups, etc.

If you are wondering which way to go, I would say Emanage Ultimate if you can afford it.

 

I recently installed a UTEC and the Tuner Pro (both used) and wanted to start tuning. Unfortunately I am afraid to make any changes because my AFR at idle and on a few 2nd and 3rd gear pulls seems to be out of wack.

Idle : Starts in the higher 12's and slowly goes up to around 14 before dropping back to 12's and repeating.
Pulls : Start around 15 and ends in the mid 13's at redline.
Cruise : About 14.7

I just installed Cattman headers and 3" catback and I should be running rich according to what I've read. All the 3rd gear pulls were done in Stock setting on the UTEC and a few 2nd gear pulls done on the 350z base map/parameters. The 350z base map just leaned me out some more.

I pulled the WBo2 sensor out today to try and do a "free air calibration" but got an error stating it could not warm up, through the dipswitch method and PC. Ordered a new sensor already but would like some reassurance that it is most likely the sensor and not some settings.

If anyone could let me know what AFR I should be seeing before any tuning at idle, cruise and WOT I would greatly appreciate it.

Also my bung location, hopefully not to far upstream.

 

Anyone ever used or heard of anyone using the AEM FIC to tune? Called Hills Garage in Baltimore and they told me that the UTEC is not good because they had problems with it. and the Apexi SAFC (whatever its called) only controls fuel and you need timing control to get any good gains. So he recommended the AEM FIC universal piggy back unit......anyone had any experiences with this?

 

have you read through this thread? The main points? There are quite a few on here that have had success with the UTEC. And the SAFC can indirectly control timing (undesirable, yes, advantageous if set-up properly, yes). AEM-FIC is fairly uncharted on this platform at the moment.

 

Sorry man, I'm pretty new to all this and I'm not as experienced as you at these things......I have tried to read all 150+ responses to this post but my have skipped some responses on the way.....I did check turbo XS website (or whatever) they said that UTEC is discontinued and it has a $1,000,000 price in the field. So I figured ask if anyone has any experience with the AEM FIC...that is all. All I wrote was what Hills Garage told me directly. They said its an OLD DOS type system and its difficult to work with and they recommended the AEM unit.

 

Get the AEM then.

Have you tried my350z or g35driver? You can get UTEC's for very cheap.

 

Only thing with AEM unit it only retards timing and not advances it. I will try the other forums thanks.

 

Seems as if it's for boosted apps mostly.

 

Spoke with RT TUNING in Lansdale, PA yesterday and they told me that the greddy emanage units are glitchy and all the guys they have come in there with them are unsatisfied with results on those. He also said that the software is wierd to work with. He said emanage blue was discontinued because of problems and emanage ultimate is not any better...said people have burned up ignition coils with them. The guy recommended the AEM FIC universal unit $370....he said that works on all cars and they have used it successfully and everyone they have used it on was happy....he also said software is really easy to work with. He told me that to advance timing correctly I would need a stand alone AEM universal unit....$1800!! HELL NAW!! But he told me that the power gains from advancing timing wont be worth the extra $1000 + dollars...he said advancing timing does not really give you THAT much more power and adjusting fuel curve is what is going to smooth the power curve out and give the car a safe ride. He also said with an AEM stand alone unit will not pass inspection because no longer OBDII....but with FIC controller it will. I will just get AEM FIC and use that and when I get done post my dyno chart on here so you guys can see the numbers........waiting on cattman catback(he need more orders)....then I can put everything on and get a BEFORE (with mods untuned) and after(mods with tune) dyno. Guy was very informative on the phone...he is the "Nissan" expert there, he said he has tuned Maximas, 350z's, and G35s.