The 6" would deaden sound better, but would be hard pressed to fit without banging on the sides of the exhaust tunnel and heat shields.

 

Thanks for the reply!
I really appreciate the input. Since it seems that my prior posts asking for advice didn't get much informative feedback.

 

And that is one of the main reasons I don't have a blingy lip kit or dark colored wheels and the cattman 3" instead of something louder... Nice sig!

 

What is my best exhaust system option for a 7th gen max?

 

If you want a 3", then custom all the way. Find a good shop that has a mandrel bender and get a quote.

 

Thanks! I forgot where I read the quote I use for the sig. I obviously agree with you on being subtle. My 01 "Max" is a work in progress and I want to keep it as close to stock looking/sounding as possible. Although I do have a Stillen lip, because I didn't like feeling the front end lift at highway speeds. And which is why I want an exhaust tone just slightly louder than stock. No offense, but the Cattman 3" is a bit too loud for my taste, even though it's an awesome system. Too bad the Cattman 2.5" is defunct, I'm leaning toward the Megan and replacing the poor excuse for a resonator with a 22" Magnaflow. To try and come close to duplicating it.

 

Well I had to go with a 3" exhaust for the 15-20+ whp gains over a 2.5", and I can tell you for sure that the cattman 3" is one of the quietest options that is possible for a straight-through 3" design. No way for me to turn down another set of headers worth of gains when I'm such a track *****...

 

+1^^^^^^^^^^
You could go T409 or Aluminized steel from http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront and have someone build you an inexpensive slip fit system or flanged system....Just don't do the 1 piece exhaust system cause the only tool you'll be using is a saw when you need to disassemble it.....this is directed to BobPeez

 

No doubt! For racing purposes there's no substitute for HP and the Cattman 3" obviously delivers. BTW; 12.68 ET is damn respectable for a "sport sedan!" I remember when the (2 stroke triple) Kawasaki 750 was the fastest production motorcycle available and turned a 12.0 ET. I noticed you hail from Greensboro, NC. NASCAR country and you probably have local race fabrication resources available I couldn't dream of in Rhode Island! Anyway, I can't go radical with my daily driver Maxima. Because the DMV here has these nasty roadside inspection stations complete with exhaust sniffers and State Police, just itching to write tickets and tow cars to help out the state's economy. So it's probably in my best interest to have all the cats in place etc.

 

Especially naturally aspirated! Most of my fabrication gets done by myself... Kind of a hobby of mine. That sucks about the DMV situation there, I would have to move.

 

Thanks for the advice. But, I'd be crazy to not go with an all stainless flanged system. Aluminized/Steel won't last long here. Since the salt/sand put down on the roads in the winter eats exhausts for breakfast!

 

N/A power "We don't need no steenkin compressors"! Yeah with the DMV and state being broke, it's not a car enthusiast's Heaven. But something you learn to live with. The challenge of doing subtle street legal modifications, that'll let the Maxima flex the muscles it's already got. Not to mention, it's so satisfying when a "Fartcan" Honda or Mitsubishi pulls up at a light, takes off WOT with a loud fart, and the Maxima "discretely" ends up at the next light first!

 

Being discreetly fast is nice. Mine is normally so quiet at the track compared to everything else out there that nobody can even hear it, but you can hear it in this run.



Really not that loud.

 

Sounds sweet, reminicent of an Indycar at full song! Looks like you get some serious wheel spin at launch. But once hooked up to the pavement "it pulls like a freight train" on the top end. I assume you're running a limited slip diff. Otherwise it'd melt down one of the tires.

 

RI DMV sucks they used to bag me all the time for the stupidest stuff, side marker bulb or one plate bulb out it got to the point I was at traffic court on Harris ave once a month, moved out of state and knock on wood haven't been pulled over since I moved to Ct 6 years ago. When I go up to visit family they don't bother me at all funny what a out of state plate can do for you I guess

 

Nope that's an open diff. They're not bad on the drag strip

 

Many of us have had lengthy convo's re: straight line performance + LSD, vs road course + LSD in years past.

IMO, LSD can/may help, IMO, minimally if anything in a straight line. But would help out tremendously on a road course ... i.e, leaving a turn, and your inner tire gets annihilated, LSD FTW!

 

I'm surprised! I figured non RI plates would make you a more likely target "bein' a outta stata" (sorry folks that's RhodeIslandeze) and all that stuff. Probably be worse if they were MA. plates!

 

Technically, it is a VLSD...

In a straight line, the torque at each wheel (in reality, the available grip at each wheel) should be more or less identical due to the even loading on the wheels (side-to-side). Minor differences/disturbances should not result in a one-wheel-wonder with a VLSD. However, in the cornering-induced uneven loading on a road course, an HLSD (torsen diff.) will definitely help put the power down with minimal inner-wheel spin.

Small additional note: VLSDs transfer the most torque to the slower wheel at maximum rotational speed difference. This can also heat up the diff and create a "soft" lock. Of course, if the fluid gets heated up too often, it can lose its viscosity, at which point your VLSD becomes an open diff.

 

You can also do a slip fit T409 or T304 3" Catback.....there's a large assortment of flanges in 2 bolt or 3 bollt designs, it's easy to get everything you need and then find a shop......I'll fab everything and then take it to an exhaust shop to weld it all up.....

 

WOW! I stand corrected. In that case, nice launch!!! I've found that even with my car (3.0L-A/T-VLSD) at moderate accelerations, something as simple as paint stripes i.e. crosswalk or a hard downshift can "bark" the tires. Good thing Maximas seem relatively immune to torque steer.

 

Immune? I had it the other way around, i.e. they are known for it. At least the 3.5L, especially with a 6MT.

 

I've driven FWD cars with torque steer problems, and this isn't one of them. It's minor at worst.

 

I feel it in mine, but it may be more of a personal definition of "what is bad." In the words of Car and Driver (Tony Swan):

"Moreover, although more muscle certainly lends haste to the Maxima's dynamic traits, it also adds torque steer, particularly in editions equipped with manual transmissions. It's not as unruly as in the old Saab 9-3 Viggen, but it's there."

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...take_road_test

 

A car company needs to know they're doing, and how unequal should the shafts be with the room available to accommodate such issues (under car/transaxle area).


I say this because I've driven both an Impala SS, and Grand Prix GXP, both with V8's, and the Impala was insane, , and the GXP was 100% better, at times better than the Maxima in some situations.

 

The ONLY FWD I've ever driven without noticeable torque steer was my Subaru Loyale. And IMHO the Maxima isn't quite as well behaved but close, which isn't bad considering it's got >100HP over the Subaru. My 91 Camry V6 was pretty bad too, it actually had a jackshaft running across the front cross member to the L front CV joint/axle assy. But the WORST torque steer I ever felt had to be when I blew a rear end at the "Sand Drags" in my 79 Bronco with a "built" 351M V8 and drove home using the front wheels. Definitely keep your fingers away from the steering wheel spokes if you don't "feather the throttle" 100% of the time when turning!

 

Kudos on some VERY informative technical info on differential operation. Does that mean the LSD in Maximas use a Torsen type diff vs. the more common clutch pack ("TorqueLoc/PosiTraction") type? Not to be a smartass but you didn't mention 2 other unique LSD designs. The Detroit "TruTrack" and "Locker" diffs. The "TruTrak" is similar in concept to a Torsen, but uses the theory that worm gears are more effective as drive vs. driven components. When wheelspin occurs the worms become driven and resist that force, transferring torque to the slower wheel. The "Locker" (by definition) is locked when there is 0 speed differential between the wheels. If a wheel wants to go faster due to turning forces it ratchets, allowing the faster wheel to freewheel and applies torque only through the slower wheel. And will IMMEDIATELY lock again at 0 wheel speed difference.

BTW; How this thread went from exhausts, to tangents on differentials and torque steer discussions. Is beyond me?

 

This thread is nearly as bad as the Ghustle thread. It was created over a year ago.

But, just an FYI, the 00-01 used VLSD and the 02-04 used the HLSD.

 

Well...Tech stuff is just so cool (for me) it's hard to resist getting off on tangents!!! Anyway, NmexMAX, sparks03max, tcb_02_max, I forgot who else posted about what, but...Thanks for all the great discussions! So back on point to exhausts, what about my thoughts on a Megan with a 22" Magnaflow resonator? I know it won't give performance like a Cattman 3" system. But do you think it will be quiet enough to keep the RI. DMV happy? Oops, forgot about THAT tangent too! Let's not go there...

 

With stock headers, yes. Even the cattman 3" will be extremely quiet with stock headers.

99% of the sound clips floating around of this exhaust already include headers, which increase volume by at least 1 order of magnitude.

 

Great! Thanks again!

 

I drove some 1st Generation American Fwd cars and it would wear you out just driving that crap around the block......

Oh this isn't nothing like that Ghustle thread!!!!!! This thread's pretty close to it's thread topic......that other thread is about any and everything.....

Oem manifolds....plus modified precats and a ypipe will make your 3" catback really flow.....

 

Well folks, I guess all the discussions about the definite advantages of the Cattman 3" (and I appreciate ALL the good advice) are a moot point! I think I'm an idiot for NOT checking under the hood to see exactly which engine is in my car..."DUH"!!! I disappointingly found out it's got the VQ30DE. Which probably wouldn't really benefit from a high flow exhaust, due to the restrictive single runner intake. At least it's the plastic one so heat soak is minimized. But that sort of seals the deal for me, might as well go cheap.

 

lol the intake manifold on the 00-01 VQ30DE is one of the best on any gen. It's the we call the 00VI... the same one that all the 4th gen guys go to a lot of trouble to swap in to their cars.

 

Really, what makes it so great?

 

Butterfly valves with two different runner lengths.... Gives a strong bottom end and a strong top end powerband, with pretty power curves like this. Notice it wants to rev a lot more than they do on this dyno.



The stock 3.5 IM drops off like a rock above 5800 RPMs. Then if you SSIM it, you lose the bottom end. So the 00VI gets the best of both.

 

So i should keep my box and not go with a SRI?

 

Intake manifold and intake are not the same thing. The stock intake is fine though. SRI will just make a lot more noise, and gain a few HP up top.

 

i skipped over the manifold word, hence my confusion. Thanks for the info sparks!

 

Those pre cats looked nice what kind were they....