Yeah fuel strainer is the next thing as well for me.....

 

Hey guys, I have an install question. '01 AE/SE manual 87xxx. I bought the full cattman setup. I met w a shop owner today. He said welding the ports for the o2 sensors is no problem, but he recommending a new wiring setup as opposed to cutting&soldering the wires. He said it will eliminate the risk of throwing codes due to the solder joint (because even when solder joint done properly it messes w the resistance and thereby the signal to the ecu). Any you experts have thoughts on this? If his advice rings true w you guys, where would one find such an item?

 

it wont... plenty of folks cut and solder and it works fine... you will be good with cutting and soldering

like an orger said on another thread... o2 sensors is kinda "it either work or it dont" kinda thing... cut n solder

 

Agreed....did the same with mine and they are fine unless he doesnt know how to solder....

 

Thx.

What's a reasonable time frame to complete the job? It's all stock right now.

Is there advice anyone might offer on tuning afterwards? Any good threads so I can read up would be appreciated.

 

if you are installing all at once it will be about 5-8hrs lol... man if you were local id be ur best friend lol... did you get a quote on how much the install is going to run you???

um tuning is up to you dont know how much of a DIY'er are you... id say go do your research n search up the different options... lets not ***** this thread up... but you can go as simple as an AFC or as complex as Haltec

 

Hate to disagree with two knowledgeable people, but I must. Not to say cut and solder won't work, it's just that the mech is right, it doesn't always. It's a risk. A risk that cannot be fixed without buying new, expensive sensors.
I'm not as familiar with the 5th gen as the 5.5, but can the sensors not be extended like in the 5.5?
I'm also not sure what the mech is referring to as a new wiring setup (as you stated it).

 

i believe he is talking about extending his o2 sensors lol... making them longer... this is something always done and work... why all the sudden wont it work??? same process with any o2 sensor of any make n model car lol... unless somehow he is all the sudden talking about something else

 

Absolutely, cut/solder works. Im only saying there is indeed a chance cutting/soldering won't work, as the mech stated. I've seen it fail at least in four instances. Not sure why in those cases, could had been quality of work, but in those instances a new sensor had to be bought. I'll add this, if the mech suggests not do it, I wouldn't be too comfortable letting him do it unless you know him and the quality of his work very well. I've found sometimes these recommendations are more about a mechs comfort/skill level than anything else.

But my question remains unanswered, is there not another option on the 5th gen to cutting/solder? Do they HAVE to be cut/soldered? Again, I ask because I extended my two primaries simply by cutting the harness and pulling the wire out, then re-taping. Others have successfully done this as well without cutting wire or damaging anything. Personally, that seems easier and safer than cutting wire and soldering.......if that's an option.

Still don't understand what the mech meant by new wiring setup.....unless he means what I am suggesting as pulling the stock wires from the harness and re-routing. If so, I am adamant that is the better way to go.

Hopefully I was more clear this time.

 

either or... whichever the mechanics prefer i guess... you could go the universal o2 extender route... havent seen anybody do that, its $30'ish for the extender... you could also ask someon to just extend it for you and all the mech has to do is connect lol... that can be another route

 

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I wish you guys were local; as a newb I'm stuck playing the 'I hope this mechanic knows what he's doing because I don't' game..... "You're gonna need a Johnson rod in there".

His computer quoted 10 hrs for everything. He's $85/hr. Says he'll charge actual though, computer is just a guide.

I know nothing about DIY'ing, I'm at the mercy of a mechanic. Sorry didn't mean to clutter but wasn't sure where to post - figured in here in case something of value could be helpful to others - I'll start another thread if have more questions.


Kinda makes me nervous... don't want to spend more $$ if I don't have to.



He meant he would find another harness that is factory built that is long enough to reach without modification. So there wouldn't be any solder joints anywhere along the wiring path - no cutting. I wasn't clear as to whether or not this would be a nissan part or if other 'brands' would work. In his words, if I want a no-risk solution, that would be it.

Not sure where that leaves things though.....?

 

I'm on mobile forums. Where are you located? There may be someone near you that can offer some help.

$85 an hour....sounds typical but geez, soboring reminder of why I do 90% my own work.

 

Yeah that is insane 850 bucks to put on, you should just ask for the Headers and Y pipe install and you do the exhaust yourself to save some money....

 

You could probably get 2 of these O2 sensors w/ 39" wires.



http://www.boschautoparts.com/Vehicl...part_num=13374

With 2 of these 30" extensions.



http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1527

Almost 70" of wire should be long enough to reach.

 

Chris- I would love some help.... would gladly pay someone to teach me how to do this stuff.... I mean I'd have to pay someone anyway. I would love to learn how, but lack tools & experience. I asked the guy if I could work along side of him to learn, but he didn't like that idea. Can't really blame him, if I cut off a finger or something he'd be liable if I were the suing type.

Bob- Thx for the parts link, I might just go that route. Anyone know if 70' will reach for sure? Id hate to buy the thing and be an inch short.

 

Just did mines me n a fellow other... Total cost was about $100 n thats with using a lift... Def a hard thing to do no doubt but $850 at the total end price I could've had a SC on my AE n tuned lol

 

lol u sure that works... The sensor that needs to be extended is the rear primary... This is the reason I didn't get this because it shows only for the secondary o2's... Primary connector is different

 

Here man check out this thread and PM some people might be near you to give you a Hand, 200-300 bucks can buy you a Mechanics Set from Craftsman, a Jack, Jackstands, thats all I needed for install had the 94pc set and got her done, your only dropping and replacing.....And have you ever took off the intake manifold...

http://forums.maxima.org/upper-midwe...milwaukee.html <<<<Click Me

 

I think the OP is re-locating the secondary sensors to after the main cat. If not this primary O2 sensor should work. It's got a wire almost 26" long.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/Vehicl...part_num=13350

 

Yes

 

Chris is absolutely correct. He helped me over the phone with my header install. NO WIRE CUTTING NECESSARY!! Check out my install thread with pictures of the entire process. Still no cel after thousands of miles.

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=...t=Obx+comments

 

HTTP 404 Not Found!!!!!!!!

 

I installed a Dual O2 sim on the secondary O2 sensor bagged them and relocated them under my battery tray.....been there for at least 4-5 years no CEL(s) ever regarding that.....I've had 2 CEL(s) since owning this car since new.... first was a def cam sensor and recent after I used too much RTV on my NWP intake spacers cleared and removed my intake spacers and installed them with double gaskets and it resulted in a clean trouble free install....Back to the O2 sim install it will be easier to extend the chassis harness...Chose to extaend the actual O2 sensor wiring so that all he connector looked undisturbed and factory! The method I used to splice them was metal crimps, them soldered them after crimping and sled heat shrink over the soldered/crimped wires, then placed them in High temp wire protective sleeves.....

 

New experiment....Resonator for 3" on the right (Magnaflow 12649)

 

Got 6" round Magnaflow muffler, SCE 3" ID Copper gaskets, now waiting on....... T304 exhaust tubing and CRS 3" flanges....!

 

ETA?

 

How about ETC? Going at a wait on this or that schedule....hopefully I can get it tig welded this weekend not sure got 2 birthdays too celebrate!

 

It is still for sale. I want to buy one for my 03.

 

Call Brian at Cattman. His contact information is in his posts.

 

would like a 3" or 2.5"? Cattman is only building 3" catbacks now.....18007699920.....I've got a 2.5" Cattman possibly for sale if the 6" round resonator is a successful cure.....for lower in town cruising volume!

 

Who ever complained about Cattman's catback pricing should feel good seeing this:
http://www.perrinperformance.com/spe...xhaust-systems

 

+1

And there is a much larger market for those.

 

Well got everything for the New Cattman 3" resonator, time to get the chop saw out and start fitting this new resonator so I can get this assembly Tig welded:
1. 6" Round Muffler x 18" length, 3" in/out
2. (2) Corrosion Resistant Steel 3/8" thick, 3"- 2 bolt flange
3. 12" length, 3" OD T304 SS tubing
4. (2) 3" ID-2 bolt, SCE Copper gaskets

 

Whats the part number for the Gasket, and the fee need a couple....

 

I quoted you from another thread.... question for ya: when installing your new resonator, how do you make up for the lost 2" of pipe?

 

Just in case you're unaware the Resonator section is flanged and so will my new resonator section...The Overall length flange to flange is 30.625"....That's why I have the muffler/resonator, 2 flanges, 2 copper gaskets, 12" of 3" O.D. T304 SS tubing.....I don't chop up my ****.....I do it right so it's a bolt-on feature....

 

SCE-9447 @ summit....$12.01 (ea)

 

Well I'll shoot for this week or upcoming weekend with my resonator section.....buying school supplies and school clothes this weekend it appears! But I still be working behind the scenes getting it ready for welding!

 

Well I pushed it back to 9-15-12, 11:59 pm....Should have that New resonator section done by Saturday night at the latest! It should be quieter off the bat but it should quiet down even more once the carbon settles inside the SS wool! This should be a repeatable procedure and maybe I can make a jig to setup a few more for those of you interested....how much do you think it's worth? The parts alone retail prices including welding, are $180.12....This doesn't including shipping!

Parts
1. Magnaflow 12649 6" round x 18" long muffler- $99.64
2. 12", T-304 SS, 3" OD, 16 guage, straight tube-$10.50
3. 2 ea Mild CRS 2-bolt, 3" ID universal exhaust flanges- $19.98 ($9.99 ea)
4.Welding-$50
Total: $180.12
extra chrgs will be included using SCE Copper 3" ID 2-bolt exhaust gaskets (2) @ $12.01 ea

 

I'm in.