Those vids made me drool. Getting mine installed tomorrow.

 

Nothing too special, just the 1st fully built 5.5gen Maxima. Nothing but the block is stock in this build. I finally got the heads back last night after being worked on for 2 months. I'm ready to start assembly this weekend, and should be done in a few weeks. Will still need time to get miles on this fresh motor and go tune.

 

You had better beat me at the track or I will ridicule you endlessly

 

Trying to spin that thing At 8000 plus rpm is the way to go with big power....TS can probably provide you an awesome flash for that or go UTEC, either way that sounds awesome!!! Wish I had more time/money I would build a Cosworth Variant in a FWD block and all their extra pieces to hold the thing together at 8000 rpm....I would probably blow up my A/T at that rpm...LOL!!! Take your time and do it right and it'll be an orgasmic experience once it's on the freeway/street!!!

 

I see you're giving him a lot of advice on things he's already got slated out. His engine is DONE basically and his tuning choice is already made, it just has to be put together now...

It's not all about RPMs... The highest HP N/A VQ35DE's in the world rarely rev over 8000, normally more like 7500 (4.0-4.2L stroker). Broad/flat curve > 9000 rpm dyno queens.

Unless Deckdout has huge cams, long tubes, and a very trick (cosworth or similar) IM, I doubt he'll be making power much past 7500. Regardless, "only" 7500 doesn't mean it will be slow. lol

 

I'm just trying to see what he's doing and provide some verbal encouragement...that's usually not found on this Forum! I don't know all the tricks, especially electronic devices that are used on the VQ series to squeeze out every ounce of power, cause I prefer not to chop up my Harness....but I was basically being noisy/curious about his build...not trying to give advice at all, just trying to converse with a gear headed human being!

 

He's using an SSIM with aaron's block-off plate. I know the cams he's using but I let him spill the beans on that. Just know they are far from stock...

 

Here's one more with the 3" Ypipe and 3" cattman catback.

 

All the vids I saw were for 5.5gens with other bolt-ons. I have a 5gen with just a GAB. I wonder how it'll sound .

Spent hours trying to get the b-pipe off of the cat... still didn't get it out. Those nuts were rusted and rounded. Hopefully I can make more headway tomorrow or I'll have to take bus to work next week . Hopefully WD-40 overnight will do the trick. I really don't want to take it to a shop How long did it take you guys to install it??

 

Well install time will depend on how quickly you get the stock exhaust off... but my install took 30-40 minutes including jacking up the car. If you do get it, make sure you get the napa (walker) hangers that are recommended in the instructions or it will bang where it goes over the rear suspension.

It will sound deep and mellow on stock headers with GAB.

 

I can live with deep and mellow

And where can I get those? Will I have to order them or can I go to an autoparts store?

 

Did you not read the word napa in my post? lol

 

My butt dyno is telling me unbelieveable things. Things like no low end loss (and maybe some gain) and huge high end gains.

 

You sure your butt is within spec and has been calibrated recently???
That's good to hear...I messing around with 2 other cars right now didn't get mine done as planned Friday nite...Found that the stainless steel exhaust gasket used at the cat fits the 3" bolt pattern perfectly...I'm just gonna trim the gasket I.D. to fit the 3" tubing I.D.!!!! Then I can reuse them forever-ever!!!

 

It's somewhat possible you'd feel it on a butt dyno, but I will bet you that most of what you are feeling is your ear sensor telling your butt dyno that you have achieved ludicrous speed, so your butt dyno adjusts the power accordingly.

Seriously though try this one day. Unbolt your Y-pipe (run open Y) and go drive around. Your butt dyno will scream MAD POWER YO!!!!! simply because it's loud...

 

I would probably cry and blame it on the 19's and street tires I'll be running, then I'd cry again.

I'm going to spin this motor as high as the gains will allow. I'm hoping to be in the 8k - 8500k range, but of course there won't be any point to doing that if there is nothing to gain that far in the powerband. I also have a few things up my sleeve that I will try on the dyno to see how far I can push this motor up top. Not anything special, it's just all about the tune. With the components of this motor I should be able to give it a super aggressive tune, and see some good results from it. Work in progress of course, and I won't know until I get to that point.

Be on the lookout for my "Completed" build thread. I don't like making progress threads on much anything until the project is done. I hate threads that have a good start but fall by the wayside due to whatever reason. So when I'm done you'll be able to see all the details.

Cams by themselves are nothing special, it's the headwork and valvejob that they are sitting on that will shine. The cams themselves are Brian Crower's Stage 2 which is 264/264 with a 10.82mm lift. From a stock 238/242 (from memory on the exhaust side) comparison, yes they are huge.

 

wow... im interested in this

 

Thanks deckdout2, I'm pulling for you! Hope you run 12's right out the box!

 

shyt... 11's lol

 

hey is there a 3 inch setup for the 4th gen max or can a 5th gen setup fit on a 4th gen?

 

This is the "goal".

 

With some cutting @ the rear muffler flange which are @ different locations, plus the rear valance with need to be opened up to accomodate those twin 3" tips, and maybe reving about .5" @ the rear cat flange but other than that they are extremely close in the bending department!

 

Did anyone get an o2 port added to their B pipe? I was considering adding one for a wideband, but from what I read, that sensor should be before the main cat. Is that right?

 

I added one to my Cattman Header/ypipe collector and my other 2 vehicle running headers as well!

 

x10!

 

that's correct.. the whole point of a wideand is to monitor the a/f ratio as accurately as possible, which is best done by measuring gasses straight from the engine from both cylinder banks.. so it needs to be somewhere on the y-pipe.. if the gasses pass through the cat, that would throw the a/f off a bit and mess up the readings

 

IMO even if you manage 320whp, you're going to need a good deal of weight reduction, 1.7 '60s, and some masterful shifting to hit an 11. Not that I don't think you can do it, but that's a helluva goal to start out with!

Those are the same cams I keep forcing myself not to buy since they're on sale for ~200 less than pretty much any other new set of cams. They are *somewhat* mild on duration for a full N/A build in all honesty if you are aiming for the 8000+ rpm range. I think you'll find the limits of the SSIM and our normal header options above 7500 very quickly, anyway, though. Those 264 cams should make for a very healthy midrange and solid 7k+ powerband along with the headwork.

 

yea 8K is a lot, but wasnt dandy doing some ish like this???.. he can get 12's, run ur ish at MIR track

 

just installed mine yesterday, i have a fed spec so i have the additional o2 port and its a 3.0.. sounds perfect. all my friends had doubts about the sound because of the massive piping, but they all had great reviews and im an old guy who has 2 kids and hates the annoying drone zone that exhisted when i owned the greddy evo 2. thanks brian for a great exhaust. definently got what i paid for. and it only took me 45 min to install. btw i also have the stillen y pipe which will probably go away after i pick up some headers from cattman.

 

We got a lot in common I see....

 

Yep, you're absolutely correct. Dipping that low in times is subjective to vehicle weight, perfect launches, and shifts. It's possible, and I think that the gear I'm carrying is capable of achieving that goal, assuming that I loose a few pounds, throw on some slicks, and drive better then I ever have before.

It would be nice to hit, and whether I do or don't is another subject. At the moment honestly I just want a fast daily driver, that I can throw on the track, street prepped and still achieve fast times. I don't roll on the street with my seats out and on slicks so to be realistic with myself, I'd like to see what I can achieve as she sits. I will definitely run track prepped at some point, but my true intentions is not to be a track king or anything (as nice as that would be). I'm looking for a very usable, and balanced power all around. I could have gone with bigger cams and stroked this block out, and a bunch of other stuff, but this build isn't geared around anything more then making the most out of a well balanced system. Even the heads although have major work done to them, were not bored out to the max to flow 50 - 70cfm more (which I could have done), it' only flows a mere 35cfm, but it works perfect with my setup.

Ouch, I've just whored my own thread. Sorry 3" Cattman guys, just ready and excited to get this thing done. I'll save my further rambling for another thread.

If you guys are looking to make good power, or learn some things about what works and what doesn't with our motors, read what sparks03max has to say. He's been there and very knowledgeable in this area!

 

Thanks wyche89 and CMax03. Have alot to learn about tuning. Whole new arena for me. I thought I was done, but everyone keeps coming out with these great new things.

For the record I hate you Brian Catts, SurraTT, Aaron92SE, and carnal_c30. Did I leave anyone out?

 

Old guys with 2 kids and 3" Cattman Catback club? I guess I am in.

 

Yeah it's amazing how much difference even shift speed/style can make for us manual guys. I have got enough practice now to be somewhat consistent and I still vary 1-2 MPH from run to run on seemingly identical shifts... I would probably pick up an instant 2mph if I could get my transmission shifting better, but it hates me.

I've pretty much gone in the same direction now that I have a FC RX-7 sitting in the driveway waiting for me to save up for a LS series swap. That car has the optimal drive wheel configuration, is light weight and will have God's own engine in it, so my Maxima is just going to be a fast/fun daily.

Do you have a flow chart or pics of the head porting? Who did the porting, and how much did it run you if you don't mind me asking? I will probably end up with fully (home brew) ported IM and heads + cams and supporting mods (valvesprings, rod bolts, oil pump) if I can find an extra set of heads for cheap. Whether they will flow more CFM than stock... I don't know, it's going to take a lot of research, practice, luck, and someone who can flow bench them to do it myself.

Right now my goal is to run a 12 on my 245/40/18 daily driven street tires and full stock appearance. I may pull my PS belt and passenger seat plus gut the trunk a little at some point for a PB run, though. Ultimately low 12s on DOT radials with full weight reduction/track prep and consistent high 12s on street tires (N/A) with a broad powerband and good fuel economy are my goals for this car, though.

Thanks for the props man, but I don't know much more than anybody else! I just research OCD-style all the time and see what others have found success with then pass it on where I can.


We'd may as well ***** this thread. It's over 300 posts deep and the 2nd batch is already filled, so our post whoring bumps will just keep it up top for those who might still want in on this!

 

I guess you've got a good whoring point. It is none the less, my own thread.

I had RLZ Engineering in Concord do my headwork for me. They also did a 5 angle valvejob with valve tipping when they shimmed and reassemble everything back for me. I'm still waiting on Brad to email me the flowchart, and he flowed the heads as a whole, vs each port since that would have taken them a long time. I paid 100 for the Superflow. For the porting I had Brad hand port the intake and exhaust ports. I still had to wait 3 months to have them done, which these heads took the longest to do. I was looking for a CNC job, but the the problem with that was there was no one out there that actually wrote a CNC program from scratch for the VQ35DE heads. Everywhere (even M2 Race Systems) had a scanned hand port job programmed into their CNC, and I'm not sure how much I trusted that to pull the most beneficial cfms for my configuration. Plus I didn't know the root of that hand port and who did it, and what not. Brad has been doing headwork for Nascar for 10 years and has been in the import side since 2002 when he left Nascar. He is the best of the best, and has heads shipped to him from all over the country, but thats where the time lapse hurts them. Too much work and not enough time. Hence mine were suppose to take 1 month, but lead on to 3 months. I'm still super happen with the work regardless, it was worth the wait.

At anyrate, I was wanting Brad to write a CNC program (he's good) from scratch, but that would have taken 5-10 months and about 15k for him to do. I opted for the hand port instead which is just as good if not better. Came out to about 200 per hole, or 1200 for just the headwork. With the valvejob and all including assembly, decking the heads, and chemical bathing it came to about 2100 total.

Here's some drooling pics for you. Brad hand delivered them to my place about 10:30pm last Thursday as a favor. Great guy, and superb work. If you've got the downtime, definitely the only way to go.

 

As of last night........

 

Awesome, that looks great. Can you take more pics of the exhaust ports? As far as I understand, the exhaust side is where the main restriction in these heads is shown to be.

I was also looking at the M2racing porting... They have some pretty good reviews/feedback and definitely get a solid 50+ CFM out of them.

I'm thinking that I can spend a month of taking my time and do it myself, though. It won't be as good as your port job but I'll pull out my OCD on it and do a decent job hopefully. Honestly the heads will probably be the easy part compared to porting out the runners on the stock UIM. That is going to be a ***** and a half not only getting a flexible tool up in there, but measuring and staying consistent...

 

What I've learned from Brad and some other guys that are into major headwork on the 350z boards is that honestly our heads flow pretty damn good from factory, and that it's not really about the size of the ports that make the significant difference, it's about the smoothing to create that high velocity, and also the bridge where all the curvatures inside the ports are flattened out and super smooth. The biggest change is flattening out those big curves on the sides of the ports, bridges, and where the valves go into the guide on top of the port.

Last pic, 2 post above is of an exhaust port. Here's a couple more.

 

I emailed Brian. I am down for this. Does that pricing included discounted rates & shipping?

I'm not sure which exhaust is for me though. Cars w/o turbo don't use a resonator? Sorry for my uneducated question.

 

If you don't have a turbo, get the resonated one. My understanding is that a turbo tends to quiet the exhaust note, so a non resonated exhaust is ok on turbo'd maximas.

It's that price, plus shipping.