It should/could/would not take you over an hour to tune only A/F on the dyno unless you're doing something seriously wrong. Plus at the price point of an hour of dyno time you may as well invest a few extra dollars in a wide band and tune it yourself.

Now that I've been able to tune timing along with AF, I wouldn't recommend anything less than TS flash + VAFC or a UTEC (for a 5.5). Ignition timing makes a pretty huge diff for us, especially when it's hot out and the stock ECU is running sub 20 degree through midrange (3500-4800 or so) even though you can safely run mid/high 20s throughout most of the year without even a hint of knock.

I know it's more expensive, but if you consider the power gains when compared to only AF tuning, you're just paying for more power like you would with any other power mod.

Something to think about. Will look into it.
Thanks

how about HKS REAR vs all

http://www.youtube.com/user/Perkman0.../1/dGwGOi3E39s


I just upgraded the b pipe to 3" so it sounds less pingy I will post up at some point when i become sober tommorrow

Where did you buy the b pipe??

had it made on tues for 240.

they used aluminized steel and crush bent it ( not much bending tho ) . As far as the HKS rear section, they cut it as close to the muffler as possible then stretched the bejezzus out of the remaining hks pipe, so basically it is like 3" to 2.75 into hks muffler

ics:

You paid that much for crush bends? Ugh, you should really have either ordered a few aluminized mandrel bends and had them use those to fab it up, or gone to a mandrel bender who may have charged you a whole 50-60 bucks more. Now you're always going to wonder how much you're leaving on the table... It might not bother you now, but it will!

I have none mandrel bent exhaust... I do wonder how much more I could've been getting though... so perkman's got a 3" and that's why he thinks he's gonna get my times 3" all over, gotta love it

The general "norm" for a crush bender is around 40-50% reduction in flow on a 90 degree bend. You would need a 3.5" crush bent 90 degree bend to equal a 2.5" 90 degree mandrel bend, if that is the case. The %age applies to the cross sectional area of the pipe, so you can't say a 90 degree 3" crush bend = 1.5" pipe... it's much closer to 2.0-2.25"

The stock B-pipe includes 1 90 degree, and 1 45ish degree bend. The flow through a 3" ID 90 degree crush bend could be pretty bad.. maybe equivalent with a 2-2.25" mandrel bend.

It would certainly be worth the money when having a custom cat-back made to either take it to a shop that has a mandrel bender, or buy some assorted mandrel bends on ebay and take it to a decent shop that can fab it up using those bends if you're already going to spend the cash on a custom setup.

mines doesnt have the ripples at the bends but the piping is a tad smaller... so even better times to come (which i already knew)

lol silly rabbit!!!

I bought the Megan when it first came out. I was one of the first people on the board with it. There is a thread about it on here somewhere. I think it sounds great.

My two cents on the power argument is, I only noticed power gains with the exhaust on after I put the stickers on my fender between wheel and the door.

so i guess sticker jokes is where its at now

which megan cat-back are guys refereeing to? i was looking into the Megan OE-RS catback thats apparently based off the oem design and is quiet. I'm not looking for serious gains, my mufflers bad and i figured if i can get a good price on a cat-back why not go for it. From what i've read in this thread you guys say its loud because of the resonator but is it this exhaust in particular your refereeing to or the n1 style megan cat-back?

Thanks!

ok what in the fu...who honestly puts megan exhaust parts on there car? WTF is wrong with you people. Buy Cattman or dont buy anything else AT ALL.

XSpower headers//Budget y-pipe//no cat//Apexi WS2

AYY atleast let me trick people first before u point that out.

Any feedback on the megan 0E-RS fellas

I was reading all this and had a question for the org as well as Perkman. i called up my exhaust shop, Lous Custom exhaust, and he said he could do a custom bent intermediate pipe--2.5 for 175. He said no crush bending that at the bends they are all smooth. He also stated that 3inch would be to big to get in there but i see some of you have done it. I have a flowmaster 60 so id keep that. Later down the road im looking to do the headers but thats a ways away.
So ?s are: is 175 for the cat to the muffler in 2.5 a good price?
What size is the stock pipe?
With a 2.5inch bpipe vs stock will i notice any exhaust sound difference (without/before headers)
Will i see any power difference with the 2.5 b pipe? (before i get the headers)
if i dont get headers for a while will a 3inch kill my power down low?

you will always gain more power with better flow, I would look into 3" as mine fit fine. also 2.5 is still able to gain power.

I would say the 3" would be more for someone with full bolt ons

I just had it on a lift and you are right about the indent in the middle he actually folded the exhaust a bit like factory.............

super good work but commmmmonnnnn, I got it for performance not looks.

pics in ghustle thread