Since I was cluttering up another members thread, I created this one. The discussion I was trying to get at are what parts are ok to reuse, which one should be replaced regardless and which ones are a judgement call.

I swiped a .jpg from the original thread.


I am a DIYer, just trying to figure what pieces are necessary and not necessary for replacement. I was trying to make it R/R so that my "fight" would be with all the salt rusted frozen bolts and not trying to carefully remove intricate parts from the suspension for reuse. But if throwing money at it (which seems to be the implication) isn’t the smart move I am smart enough to follow that logic train!

I have seen thread after thread of clunking this squeaking that and so forth on suspension replacements. I am trying to the best of my ability NOT to short cut the system and get it done right the first time so I can enjoy another 10 years of trouble free suspension.

OK…lets rephrase this:

What parts should be replaced regardless?
What parts, if money is available, should be considered for replacement?
What parts are just a throw away of money replacing?

One thing to consider in my feeble request is that I live in an area where salt is thrown down so regularly during the winter my silver car is usually salt white.

 

10 Chars

 

What parts should be replaced regardless?
#7 (Mounts)
#10 (strut bearings)
#13 (dustboot/bumpstop)

What parts, if money is available, should be considered for replacement?
#5 (paper gasket)
#11 (isolators)
For these two items, new ones are more of a "nice to have" than a necessity.

What parts are just a throw away of money replacing?
Everything else

 

Is there something special to the material of the gasket? Is it an OEM purchase only?

 

It's like a plasticky paper material. I don't think it's too expensive, maybe about $6 or $8. And, it really only could be replaced if the original was worn. I've seen PLENTY of cases where the gasket is viable. Wouldn't be surprised if yours was in great condition.

 

Great!! Thank you for the picture!

 

I bought a roll of gasket material for about 5 bucks and made gaskets, using the old ones as templates, for all four struts/shocks. I re-used the old spring isolators, wrapping electric tape around all spring isolator tips to reinforce them and prevent them from sliding off.

 

this needs to be stickied asap

 

Exactly, but don't forget the struts (#3 & 4), and if torn or otherwise is poor shape, consider replacing #15.

Necessary:
#7 (Mounts)
#10 (strut bearings)
#13 (dustboot/bumpstop)
#3 & 4 (struts)

As needed/if money permits:
#5 (paper gasket)
#11 (isolators)
#15 (upper isolator/spring rubber)

 

Necessary:
#7 (Mounts)
#10 (strut bearings)
#13 (dustboot/bumpstop)
#3 & 4 (struts)
#15 (upper isolator/spring rubber)

As needed/if money permits:
#5 (paper gasket)
#11 (isolators)


I compared my upper isolator with a new one when i did my springs at 130K and then again at 170K. they do take a beating. Overtime the rubber compresses enough to start allowing for metal to metal type noise between the spring and top hat. They dont cost much when spending the money to redo suspension.

My rule of thumb is if you are doing any suspension work after about 40-50K miles replace all rubber parts in that area you open up. It sucks to go back to replace something you did not do the first time. 50K miles is enough for the rubber to be done with the best years of its life!

 

Hi everyone, I was looking at this thread and make me think that I have to change my dustboot too! I just want to know if anyone know where I can buy some except from the dealer because I live in Montreal and they sell the dustboot for 36$ CAD each!!!!! If it can help you, the part number is 54050-2Y001

 

this is perfect, exactally what i needed

 

wow my tokico blues are on the way in the mail and man am i glad i found this thread!!!!! just hit 100k and definately want to do it right and hopefully get another 100k out of it.

so where can i get these needed parts? i know at performancepeddler where i bought the struts they had eibach mounts for like 34 a side i think, but will that work with tokico? can i just go to local parts store or is there a better brand or place that some experienced orgers may know of?

thanks again for any help

 

If you are talking about strut mount, I know that MOOG have good quality for that and yes it's gonna work with your tokico blues, like it's gonna work with everything else...

 

As for those paper gaskets, my front ones were in pretty good condition. The rear ones were pretty dirty though. They're practically just orange pieces of paper...you can see the side of one in this pic (along with the strut mount [#7] upside down).



and FWIW, #8....rusted yeah, but the important part is to make sure the studs are fine & secure:

 

For the rubber isolator, yes they compress. In fact I've even seen cases in which the end of the spring compresses the isolator so much that it nearly pierces rubber.

HOWEVER, I still never purchase new ones. I just spin them so that the end of the spring touches a fresh part of rubber. Never had a problem, and doubt I ever will.

2slow - the struts themselves are a given

 

Gr8 Idea.

I would surely do that if I had say just about 30-35K miles. With the miles on my max i.e. 135K the old isolators were pretty much the same thickness all around. First time, I still reused them when I switched to H&R's. However in about 15K miles, the springs had ripped through them.

You need to be extra careful since the H&R's have an abrupt end unlike the stock springs which are flat at the top. I am going to switch back to my stock SE springs since I have not been a fan of the H&R ride quality I know its just me. I will take some pics to add to this thread.

 

I personally replaced everything but #5 & 15. Either way for the smaller parts, good or bad, your looking at a total of an extra $100. I just went new all the way through.

 

I just talked to Dave B at south point nissan.
#5.The paper gaskets run $18.
#10 The bearings run 19.02 for the front 2, which you only need.
#11-#15The upper/lower front isolators run 10.50 per upper and lower. The rears just have lower isolators from what I was told and run 6.75.

 

^^Prices went up.

 

get MOOG strut mounts, they come with bearings

 

^^

 

ok so saturday i orderd tokico illuminas and stechs off ebay.455 for the struts and 208 for the springs.ouch. now im pricing out everything else and this is what i have come up with/have questions on:
priced out from daveB today-
Front strut mounts -39.14pc x2 Rear Strut mounts - 42.12pc x2
Front Isolators(upper and lower) - 10.64pc x(4?) Rear Isolators 6.76pc x4?
Front Bumpstop 13.66 pc x2 Rear bumpstop - 26.82 pc
gaskets run 8.24pc

moog mounts from rockauto.com are going for 172.76 for all for includding shipping to me

question is, what parts are neccessary to have oem, which should consider upgrading to moog or kyb.does energy or anyone have universal isolators or anything like that?
i bought my car like 2 years ago and it was dropped on eibachs and stock struts
now its clucky and squeeky.
respect everyones opinion on here so i figured id ask before i made any further moods so thanks again.
also big thanks to daveb, always very friendly and very helpful, id recommend him to anyone and everyone
-jason

 

You don't need to replace rear mounts.

You don't need front upper isolators. You may not even need isolators at all.

Moog mounts - get them from amazon. Cheapest, and free shipping. Fronts only. Bearings and hardware are included.

Get OEM dustboots/bumpstops.

 

thanks for the fast response..just what im looking for

is there anyway i can take my wheel off and see if the isolator is any good?
i know u can get energy isolators but you have to have the dimensions i think

 

Yes, it's visible when you remove the wheel.

 

just got my stechs today......is the brown rubber the isolator i need, or is more like plate shaped rubber like in the diagram

illuminas, moog mounts, and oem bumpstops on the way

 

Is the paper gasket necessary to replace if torn? What would happen w/o it?

 

Yep, the brown part is the spring isolator. MOST aftermarket springs include them.

Not necessary to replace if torn. I sometimes reuse it even if torn. But not if it's in multiple pieces.

The gasket is there to prevent metal on metal noise in case there is movement (there really shouldn't/isn't any movement). I've installed suspensions without it and haven't had a single adverse symptom.

 

So - #'s 12 & 15 (rubber isolators).

Safe bet to buy these OEM -- or is that the ONLY opt. for these pieces??

I'm thinking I should REALLY replace these next time around also.

thks,
gr

 

You don't need to replace #12 unless it's rusted through (doesn't happen often), and you never need to replace #15.

 

I thought #12 was rubber too!

I swear #15 was ripped/torn last time I swapped springs. Are you SURE you never need to replace it?
Wouldn't a worn rubber boot at the top of the spring allow the spring to make metal on metal contact?!

.....i'm just sayin'....

 

arcueda; what did you finally end up ordering, from where and what did it end up costing?

I am going to be doing this same project in a few weeks. Right now I hear clunking everytime i hit a bump. Those noises have to go!!

 

Good thread, I've learned a lot so far. Tagged

 

#12 is metal; it connects the spring's top to the strut mount.

 

Roger-roger.

I remember now -- it has the OUT stamped on it.
Done this at least three times now...you'd THINK i'd have remembered that!!??

Gawd - I can't wait to tighten-up my clunking suspension!! And here comes another 6-10" of the white stuff tonight!!

gr

 

yea mine makes alot of noise and can really feel the wind at higher speeds, im sure this is the begginning of my suspension overhaul
lets see:
Stechs were $208 ebays was the cheapst i could find, hooked up with a great seller..shipped in like 3 days

tokico illuminas were $455 also off ebay, cheapest i could find

moog strut mount around $83 rockautodotcom

still have to order my bumpstops from daveb. im not in a huuge rush to do mine,roads still su*k in my area.

 

i agree, id like to thank everyone once again, id be lost without this forum

 

Please tell me the strut mounts were $83 for BOTH. And, where's the strut bearing that it's supposed to come with?

 

ya front 2, bearings in a plastic bag not pictured, sry should have included