I have a 2002 Maxima and twice this week, the engine cut out while I was driving. Once on the highway, and another time as I was approaching a red light (both really bad times for that to happen).

My car is a manual, and both times this happened I was not in gear. When the engine cut out on the highway I just turned the ignition and my engine restarted just fine. The other time, I put my car back in gear and again, my engine started. Once it started again everything was fine.

When the engine cuts out, my battery and brake light come on. My "check engine" light is NOT on. Also, I have a pretty big hole is my exhaust that I have been trying to put off the repair until after winter - could that have anything to do with it?

I have about 200k KM on my car... Does anyone have any idea what's wrong with my baby??!!

 

hummm, pretty rare on 5.5gens, but I think it might be plugs? when were they changed?
and also might be gaspump filter?

 

I a 2003 maxima se 6sp with the jet v-force performance module and every once great while my car wont rev up past 3500rm and has no power it feels and sounds just like a rev limiter i hooked it up to a computer an it didnt say any codes so i shut it off for a min. an start it back up and its fine for the longest time then it will do it again iv had it happen about 6times since thanksgiving. any have any idea why its doing this? is it the module thats making this happen? Thanks

 

I changed the plugs at 160k. Never changed the fuel pump or filter. Are they hard to change? Any idea about how much those parts should cost?

 

its on the fuel pump, I think theres DIY on this site.

have you tried to clean your MAF? check out my signature.

 

Check your o2 sensors and the wires... could also be MAF problems...for everybody with these significant issues and no CEL, did u check if the CEL bulb is gone or went bad, I've known of ppl selling there max without it.... get a scanner and if it reads suttn but no CEL then add that to a problem

 

Ok - So as of now I think my game plan will be to clean my MAF and replace my fuel pump and filter. My check engine light does work... come on when I turn key - connected a reader and found no faults.

I also noticed on my drive home that every time I let in the clutch, my RPMs would drop to between 0 and the first line. It never stalled though.

 

If the jet v-force module has anything to do with the MAF, I would take it off. That could very well be your problem.

 

One thing no one mentioned is an engine decard. I would also think about that, including cleaning out the throttle body, intake, etc... (carefully of course).

 

When your break and battery lights come on at the same time it usually indicates that you have a bad alternator. I read somewhere that VQ35 engines have a defective alternator diodes that would cause that to happen. Same thing has happened two times on my 02 I35.

 

I wasn't braking... Would this still apply?

 

cheak your maf or your iacv

 

I was having the same problem about a month ago. Happened about 6 different times at 6 different speeds. My problem was that my engine would not die out but I was unable to accelerate. I would have to pull off to the side of the road, wait for my battery and break light to shut off (keep in mind engine is still on) and then I would be good to go. First thing that came to mind was my alternator. It has not happened since but is still a fear in the back of my mind.

 

Just had my Alternator replaced, my issue was similar but it only happened twice when I came to a stop sign and then went to go forward only to find that I am in gear but have no forward progress and the TSC and SES lights would come let the car sit for a moment or two and things were back to normal. My Alternator was only delivering 6amps, had it replaced and all is good now. Very weird feeling one gets to push down on the accelerator and the car doesn't move forward.

 

Doesn't mean you don't have a pending code. Do you know if the crankshaft/camshaft position sensor recall has been done on your car. If any of them are bad, they can make your car stall out. Plug a code reader in to see if you have any pending codes.

 

Wires into the TPS. Tested one for Jet on my 1990 Accord many years ago. Caused weird stuff to happen if I got on it after a hot restart, idle would get all erratic. Jet sent me another one with cooling holes in the bottom of it but that didn't help. Even though it did seem to help a bit (more timing and fuel), just wasn't worth the aggravation.

 

sounds like a MAF issue, altho you may not be getting a DTC for a bad MAF, i would try a known good MAF.

is there any way to test the MAF? in the past i have had MAF issues on several different cars where the MAF would wreak havoc on other circuits

 

sounds to me like a MAF or grounding issue.

I am assuming you are taking it out of gear and the revs drop lower than they should and don't recover before the engine dies. Mine did this a few weeks ago and i am pretty sure it is a grounding issue. I notice my climate control blower slows when the revs are low leading me believe a grounding kit would help things out.

by the way, the brake and battery lights are on because your ecu things the alternator should be making power but it isnt because the engine isnt running.

 

same thing is happening to my 2000 max. Once you get out of gear, it stalls but when you are in gear the car is fine. ill be keeping a closer eye on this thread to see if you found a way to fix this.

 

I am almost positive it is a lack of grounding. Mine usually drops to about 300 rpm before bouncing back but has only died once which is why i haven't been more on top of it. I am going to make a grounding kit as seen here

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...e-i-bored.html

we'll see how that helps and i'll report back

 

ok thanks

 

I dont think is the module it turns off an i drive around with it off most of the time and it still happens. from what ive read today im thinking its a bad map sen. but thanks for the input

 

I'm with scott... The camshaft position sensor did the same thing to me (i was in my garbage truck though) would get up and go as normal, then cut the engine out, then get right back up and going after restarted for a while longer. If it is the CPS it will get worse relatively quick too.

 

if it was the camshaft position sensor wouldnt it trip a code? Iv hooked up a computer when this was happing an it didnt say anything was wrong.

 

lights come off when engine stalls of course and it does not necessary mean alternator.
Make sure you have your crank/ cam sensor recall done and if it was done change them again. Cam sensor usually stalls motor while crank will not start it. It will not necessary trip a code. What happends oil gets inside the sensor and screws up the reading. They are known for that.

 

Recall for the cam sensor...where can we see the details of this recall?

 

http://www.automotive.com/2002/49/ni...lls/44838.html
call the dealer to see if vin nr falls in the recall. If not you are out of luck.

 

I have an 00, NA then.

 

Don't know if you've seen this or not. You might call the dealer to see if your car was included in the recall. If yes, has it been fixed:

NOV 17, 2003 | Recall ID# 44838 Hide Details
Recall Reason ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Recall Date NOV 17, 2003
Model Affected MAXIMA
Potential Units Affected 630000

Recall Summary
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.

Consequence
THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.

Remedy
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.

 

did you ever get this resolved? My 01 automatic does this in Park and Neutral. Tryin the MAF cleaning this weekend.

 

my car (2000) started to stall and die @ red lights, stop signs, and stopping in general out of the blue pulled the codes (forgot the #) but had it had something to do w/the a idle position error (IACV). I replaced it now its fine.

I also had a bad knock sensor, swapped the badboy out too, as well as cleaning the throttle.

Happy to say I PEACED OUT the check engine light (that bastad)

 

My 2002 Maxima was cutting out while driving on the freeway a few times and thought my clutch was slipping or my fuel pump was going out.

Took it to my mechanic and pulled the codes, and it was the crank and cam shaft sensors. I had these replaced under the recall but Nissan tells me they only warranty the recall for 1 year or 12K miles, whichever comes first.

Replaced both sensors and so far so good...

 

Does anyone know about this recall applying to an 01 Max? I spoke to Nissan today and they told me I'm not covered. My car has done exactly what is listed in the Consequence above. The second part of the question then is, if these three sensors are not the problem since I'm not included in the recall, then what is the problem? MAF sensor? Currently it is in the non start condition as listed above. It will turn over but will not fire up. Help!!

 

Hmm.... extremely odd... never known of maxima's with such problems... I haven't ready any procedure but try the maf, battery, or could possibly be alternator

 

IF this happened when your gas was low, I would say its your Fuel Pump or Filter. Otherwise it sounds like a alternator problem.

 

The fact you're not part of recall does not eliminate the sensors, it eliminates Nissan from paying for their replacement.

If engine turns while starting but doesn't fire up it would mean your battery, starter, alt, MAF, O2 sensors are all fine. Some of these parts can never prevent the car from starting, I just listed them to reduce speculations you're going to read here.

I'd look into Crankshaft and Camshaft Position Sensors if I were you. Not so many things can prevent engine from starting so it must be something really 'bad'. Did you try to read the codes as ECU most likely recorded such problem?

Another remote possibility is the failure of fuel pump which is easily checked by listening to its sound when the key is turned to ON (but not START).

 

I have pulled the codes, they are all O2 sensor related. Here is what I got:
PO139: o2 sensor ckt slow response (bank1 sensor2)
PO159: o2 sensor ckt slow response (bank2 sensor2)
PO160: o2 sensor ckt no activity (bank2 sensor2)
PO138: o2 sensor ckt high volts (bank1 sensor2)

Additionally,
DTC trap caused freeze frame
PO160
RPM 2212
Load value: 75.2%
Coolant temp: 158
Short term fuel trim 1: 7.6%
Long term fuel trim 1: .7%
S T F T 2: 5.4%
L T F T 2: 0.0%
S T F T 3: -100.6%
L T F T 3: -100.6%
L T F T 4: -100.6%
S T F T 4: -100.6%
Vehicle speed: 48 mph
Fuel system 1: clsd
Fuel system 2: clsd

I have known about the non active o2 sensor for a while, but since it hadn't affected mileage I haven't replaced it. I figure with 170k on the car and still getting good mileage I wouldn't mess with it. Someone above said that o2 sensors can't keep the car from starting, so I don't know that any of this info helps, but it's all I have to go on before having to tow it to the dealer, which I am trying desperately not to do. I am going out to do the MAF cleaning right now. If that works I will post it. What I keep seeing in these posts is the crank and cam shaft positions sensors. I'm not sure I can do those myself, and from what I understand they are expensive. How can I test them? I'm pretty sure parts like those are non returnable, right? So if I just start replacing parts it could add up quick if I'm wrong.

 

AFAIK those sensors are not expensive and easily replaceable. I'd do couple things first though:
- check that you can hear fuel pump building the pressure before you start cranking.

- depress the accelerator pedal while cranking

- clear your codes and then try to start the car, to get 'fresh' codes stored if any.

if nothing from above works I'd proceed to Crankshaft Position sensor replacement. The only thing which stops me from doing it right away is the absence of the correspondent DTC - if the problem is so severe that ECU decided not to start the engine then it should have recorded it. O2 sensors are not vital for starting the engine.

I'd never touch MAF as I've never heard it preventing car from starting. It could make it go into 'limp' mode and you'd get correspondent code but not the 'no start' condition.

 

OK, I have new info for you!

First, I didnt touch the MAF sensor like you said.

I did as you suggested. I pulled my backseat out and could hear the fuel
pump pressuring up when in ACC position. I heard it fine. Did not try to start yet.

Held the gas down and tried to start ( I didnt understand why I would do that if this is FI?). No luck. Then tried to start again (w/o pedal down) and it started up strong - it has been sitting for nearly three weeks, though. I let it idle rather than take off driving and here is where the new info comes in. I watched it go down from around 1500 to around 700. Temperature gauge seems to arrive at about regular operating temperature, then all of a sudden it started losing RPM, and within 10 seconds it shut off. The battery, brake, oil and SES lights came on. I tried to start it again, and it started and shut right off. Then I started it and feathered the gas - I could keep it running if I kept punching it to over 1000, but it did soon die as well. So where does this take us? Something to do with being up to temperature? Remember, it cut off at regular road RPMs as well. I would guess the highest speed I got to in my last trip was maybe 40 or so. That was from a cold start and the trip only lasted between 5-7 minutes because I came right back once it started stalling out. This has got to be some kind of sensor driven, right? And those three sensors that I thought were expensive are not, like you said. The highest was $86 for rear crankshaft position sensor.

I feel like I almost have the culprit!

 

To eliminate IACV - if it was fried and stuck in the closed position your car still uses direct cable connection to open the throttle so this would provide some air in and let the engine start. Since this didn't happen and later on IACV was controlling idle normally I'd say it's not IACV . Had you cleared DTCs before that? This would be great time to read them again as such illumination usually means new DTC is stored. Sounds like Crankshaft/Camshaft position sensors. I torn between the two and I don't know easy way to tell them apart. You can toss a coin or start from the easier accessible one - your pick. The temperature actually affects internals of the sensor so when it gets warmed up the internal contact breaks and ECU shuts the engine as it can't 'see' the speed/position crankshaft is at. You certainly do.