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n3985's review of carnal_c30's subframe collars

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Oh wow, that's exactly what that looks like.

Most sockets are squaredrive, not hex.
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:52 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by rroderiques77
no^^^^

I guess one could leave these things off. But it sounds like I'm the only one that has them.

EDIT: I just contacted Nissan directly and they also had no idea what I was talking about. Well, it's there and it's factory.

Weird....
Perhaps they are components used in manufacturing/transportation that should've been removed but were not? Or, your Maxima is just special.
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 2slow
Perhaps they are components used in manufacturing/transportation that should've been removed but were not? Or, your Maxima is just special.
JDM uber-rare brass bumpstops!
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 2slow
Perhaps they are components used in manufacturing/transportation that should've been removed but were not? Or, your Maxima is just special.
The latter for sure (special ed)

Originally Posted by SteveB123
JDM uber-rare brass bumpstops!
FTW!!!
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 08:25 PM
  #45  
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Where can I get a hold of those???
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 11:20 PM
  #46  
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chances are some mechanic somewhere down the line screwed up and put that on. the only way it would be OEM is if it was for transport and somehow never got removed
Old May 18, 2010 | 01:07 AM
  #47  
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i'll bet all my money that Nan is CORRECT. you will need a motor mount bro. I spent nearly 6 bills trying to fix the clunk on my front end... replaced EVERYTHING, bushing, endlinks, struts, LCA, etc etc. last but not least, i replaces my motor mounts (electric mounts - I have auto)

What was it? stupid motor mounts. I had no indication is was bad and all techs looking at it, couldnt find the solution.

(Annoying Symptom: Clunking noise over uneven pavement, like metal to metal or wood knocking on foot panel.)

After replaced... quiet, smooth silent driving. :-)

Originally Posted by din9lebeRrY
The noises have no relation to acceleration/deceleration however..thats whats making it so hard to find out. More so theres no excess engine vibration, and the rubber pieces are not cracked what so ever.

Hard to tell, plus a tech would be able to diagnose that if that was the case... I'll play it out with these and if that fails, give up all together
Old May 24, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by gxe2se
i'll bet all my money that Nan is CORRECT. you will need a motor mount bro. I spent nearly 6 bills trying to fix the clunk on my front end... replaced EVERYTHING, bushing, endlinks, struts, LCA, etc etc. last but not least, i replaces my motor mounts (electric mounts - I have auto)

What was it? stupid motor mounts. I had no indication is was bad and all techs looking at it, couldnt find the solution.

(Annoying Symptom: Clunking noise over uneven pavement, like metal to metal or wood knocking on foot panel.)

After replaced... quiet, smooth silent driving. :-)

Yea, I had my pass bearing replaced (loud humming appeared) and pass side axle done since I made that post..still there.

Ive had (and coutned) 17 techs diagnose my car........not one found it. I mean ASE people, Nissan techs, you name it.


When i went for an alignment near my house this one non english speaking immigrant tech went thoroughly through my car and said, if I had to guess, pass side motor mount..everything looks fine, the mount looks slightly bad.

Funny, I did my alignment the same day you posted this..

Thanks man!
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 03:01 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by n3985
First collar installed on driver's side:



and 2nd (this is the same bolt as the first, one on top one on bottom)



3rd and 4th collar being installed:



All done on one side!

any tips or tricks for removing the fronts? iv'e degreased brake cleaned, silicone sprayed and pb blasted the **** out of it and even with my 3 ft breaker bar it wont break loose, i even put on my 200 ft lb impact with nothing. lol, i'm at a loss for words at this point.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #50  
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A butane torch should help.
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by panda_1
any tips or tricks for removing the fronts? iv'e degreased brake cleaned, silicone sprayed and pb blasted the **** out of it and even with my 3 ft breaker bar it wont break loose, i even put on my 200 ft lb impact with nothing. lol, i'm at a loss for words at this point.
I put my 4 foot jack handle on the end of a breaker bar for added leverage. Even with the added torque I really had to give the bar a very strong pull to break things loose.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #52  
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Hey, just wanted to add and give my review of the subframe collars. I didn't take any pictures, but if I did, it would be the same as the OP since I had Tavarish install mine at his garage as well.

While there isn't a night and day difference, I can definitely tell that the subframe collars are working for the car. I have a GXE and stock suspension, and whenever I hit any bumps, the car would feel as if it was floating, and i would be almost airborne for a few seconds, but these do a good job and trying to make the car handle the bumps better and make the shocks do their job. I have less of a floating feeling and feel for the price, this was a very good mod and I do recommend it to everyone.
Old Dec 25, 2010 | 04:03 PM
  #53  
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Did mine today. The peace and quiet of a Christmas afternoon in a small town....puncuated by my frozen, swearing work.

The fronts are certainly more of a fight, esp., I'd imagine, in the salt zone where I am. Very limited space to wrench in there. Doable, but a fight...moreso for the right side than the left. Crusty threads means I'm pushing on a wrench with both hands almost the entire way, 30 degrees at a time. Bah.

A quick little drive around town reveals....oh wow. This is GOOD. This is very good. More suspension working, less chassis crashing.

This is VERY GOOD.
Very high B4B.
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 06:33 AM
  #54  
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I had these installed 3 months ago... forgot about this thread. The comments here are what convinced me to go forward with this mod.

The OP is spot-on. It's a solid improvement, but not dramatic. Certainly worth the cost.
Old Dec 26, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #55  
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I had a 4 foot pipe with my 3ft breaker bar to break the nuts loose. They do rust on there pretty badly.
Old Jan 4, 2011 | 10:30 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by rroderiques77

Additionally, the C washers on the rear bolt are not snug, causing them to move and fall out of the vehicle. Anyone with a 5.5 gen having this same problem?



EDIT: This problem is easily resolved by installing metal shims above the C washer for the rear. Naturally, they have to be notched. This is definetely something that should be metioned by the manufacturer.
Anyone else have this problem?
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #57  
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so are these for 4th gen or 5th gen ?????
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Jayson89NYC
so are these for 4th gen or 5th gen ?????
yes.
Old Feb 16, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #59  
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Anybody know how to order Subframe Collars because I'va try to send a private message to carnal_c30but it's said that his mail box is full ... so ...
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #60  
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???
Old Feb 17, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by HDB Audio
Anybody know how to order Subframe Collars because I'va try to send a private message to carnal_c30 but it's said that his mail box is full ... so ...
He hasn't posted on the Org in over 2 months, his PM box is full, and his member status is "Former Sponsor". It doesn't look good, does it?

Wait... try looking up carnalc30, instead. And here it is. Interesting. Wonder what the back-story is.

Last edited by Rochester; Feb 17, 2011 at 08:37 PM.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #62  
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correct me if I am wrong but im starting to think the collars in the rear #(4)may not work if you have a LTB Stage II...
The front two areas would work but it looks like the rear collars utilizes the back end of the subframe mounts which are what the bar utilizes, therefore not allow the LTB to fit... anyone look into this combo ?

also i imagine the LTB stage II pretty much does what these do x10, so adding these may not really be noticable in a combo scenario with LTB.
dont get me wrong I am a fan of these, and is why Im considering them.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:48 PM
  #63  
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If my understanding is correct, the lower tie-bar is just clamping the two sides of your suspension together, while the subframe collars are tightening your entire subframe against your chassis... Two completely different things.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 09:01 PM
  #64  
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I wonder if you could put washers there instead. Kinda like the Spec V washer mod but for suspension instead of wheel hop
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