n3985's review of carnal_c30's subframe collars
04-07-2010, 08:52 AM
#42
Perhaps they are components used in manufacturing/transportation that should've been removed but were not? Or, your Maxima is just special.
04-07-2010, 09:00 AM
#43
04-07-2010, 11:08 AM
#44
05-18-2010, 01:07 AM
#47
i'll bet all my money that Nan is CORRECT. you will need a motor mount bro. I spent nearly 6 bills trying to fix the clunk on my front end... replaced EVERYTHING, bushing, endlinks, struts, LCA, etc etc. last but not least, i replaces my motor mounts (electric mounts - I have auto)
What was it? stupid motor mounts. I had no indication is was bad and all techs looking at it, couldnt find the solution.
(Annoying Symptom: Clunking noise over uneven pavement, like metal to metal or wood knocking on foot panel.)
After replaced... quiet, smooth silent driving. :-)
What was it? stupid motor mounts. I had no indication is was bad and all techs looking at it, couldnt find the solution.
(Annoying Symptom: Clunking noise over uneven pavement, like metal to metal or wood knocking on foot panel.)
After replaced... quiet, smooth silent driving. :-)
The noises have no relation to acceleration/deceleration however..thats whats making it so hard to find out. More so theres no excess engine vibration, and the rubber pieces are not cracked what so ever.
Hard to tell, plus a tech would be able to diagnose that if that was the case... I'll play it out with these and if that fails, give up all together
Hard to tell, plus a tech would be able to diagnose that if that was the case... I'll play it out with these and if that fails, give up all together
05-24-2010, 12:12 PM
#48
i'll bet all my money that Nan is CORRECT. you will need a motor mount bro. I spent nearly 6 bills trying to fix the clunk on my front end... replaced EVERYTHING, bushing, endlinks, struts, LCA, etc etc. last but not least, i replaces my motor mounts (electric mounts - I have auto)
What was it? stupid motor mounts. I had no indication is was bad and all techs looking at it, couldnt find the solution.
(Annoying Symptom: Clunking noise over uneven pavement, like metal to metal or wood knocking on foot panel.)
After replaced... quiet, smooth silent driving. :-)
What was it? stupid motor mounts. I had no indication is was bad and all techs looking at it, couldnt find the solution.
(Annoying Symptom: Clunking noise over uneven pavement, like metal to metal or wood knocking on foot panel.)
After replaced... quiet, smooth silent driving. :-)
Yea, I had my pass bearing replaced (loud humming appeared) and pass side axle done since I made that post..still there.
Ive had (and coutned) 17 techs diagnose my car........not one found it. I mean ASE people, Nissan techs, you name it.
When i went for an alignment near my house this one non english speaking immigrant tech went thoroughly through my car and said, if I had to guess, pass side motor mount..everything looks fine, the mount looks slightly bad.
Funny, I did my alignment the same day you posted this..
Thanks man!
07-19-2010, 03:01 PM
#49
any tips or tricks for removing the fronts? iv'e degreased brake cleaned, silicone sprayed and pb blasted the **** out of it and even with my 3 ft breaker bar it wont break loose, i even put on my 200 ft lb impact with nothing. lol, i'm at a loss for words at this point.
07-19-2010, 10:19 PM
#51
any tips or tricks for removing the fronts? iv'e degreased brake cleaned, silicone sprayed and pb blasted the **** out of it and even with my 3 ft breaker bar it wont break loose, i even put on my 200 ft lb impact with nothing. lol, i'm at a loss for words at this point.
08-15-2010, 07:25 PM
#52
Hey, just wanted to add and give my review of the subframe collars. I didn't take any pictures, but if I did, it would be the same as the OP since I had Tavarish install mine at his garage as well.
While there isn't a night and day difference, I can definitely tell that the subframe collars are working for the car. I have a GXE and stock suspension, and whenever I hit any bumps, the car would feel as if it was floating, and i would be almost airborne for a few seconds, but these do a good job and trying to make the car handle the bumps better and make the shocks do their job. I have less of a floating feeling and feel for the price, this was a very good mod and I do recommend it to everyone.
While there isn't a night and day difference, I can definitely tell that the subframe collars are working for the car. I have a GXE and stock suspension, and whenever I hit any bumps, the car would feel as if it was floating, and i would be almost airborne for a few seconds, but these do a good job and trying to make the car handle the bumps better and make the shocks do their job. I have less of a floating feeling and feel for the price, this was a very good mod and I do recommend it to everyone.
12-25-2010, 04:03 PM
#53
Did mine today. The peace and quiet of a Christmas afternoon in a small town....puncuated by my frozen, swearing work.
The fronts are certainly more of a fight, esp., I'd imagine, in the salt zone where I am. Very limited space to wrench in there. Doable, but a fight...moreso for the right side than the left. Crusty threads means I'm pushing on a wrench with both hands almost the entire way, 30 degrees at a time. Bah.
A quick little drive around town reveals....oh wow. This is GOOD. This is very good. More suspension working, less chassis crashing.
This is VERY GOOD.
Very high B4B.
The fronts are certainly more of a fight, esp., I'd imagine, in the salt zone where I am. Very limited space to wrench in there. Doable, but a fight...moreso for the right side than the left. Crusty threads means I'm pushing on a wrench with both hands almost the entire way, 30 degrees at a time. Bah.
A quick little drive around town reveals....oh wow. This is GOOD. This is very good. More suspension working, less chassis crashing.
This is VERY GOOD.
Very high B4B.
12-26-2010, 06:33 AM
#54
I had these installed 3 months ago... forgot about this thread. The comments here are what convinced me to go forward with this mod.
The OP is spot-on. It's a solid improvement, but not dramatic. Certainly worth the cost.
The OP is spot-on. It's a solid improvement, but not dramatic. Certainly worth the cost.
01-04-2011, 10:30 AM
#56
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 39
Additionally, the C washers on the rear bolt are not snug, causing them to move and fall out of the vehicle. Anyone with a 5.5 gen having this same problem?
EDIT: This problem is easily resolved by installing metal shims above the C washer for the rear. Naturally, they have to be notched. This is definetely something that should be metioned by the manufacturer.
02-17-2011, 08:30 PM
#61
Wait... try looking up carnalc30, instead. And here it is. Interesting. Wonder what the back-story is.
Last edited by Rochester; 02-17-2011 at 08:37 PM.
03-01-2011, 09:46 AM
#62
correct me if I am wrong but im starting to think the collars in the rear #(4)may not work if you have a LTB Stage II...
The front two areas would work but it looks like the rear collars utilizes the back end of the subframe mounts which are what the bar utilizes, therefore not allow the LTB to fit... anyone look into this combo ?
also i imagine the LTB stage II pretty much does what these do x10, so adding these may not really be noticable in a combo scenario with LTB.
dont get me wrong I am a fan of these, and is why Im considering them.
03-01-2011, 08:48 PM
#63
If my understanding is correct, the lower tie-bar is just clamping the two sides of your suspension together, while the subframe collars are tightening your entire subframe against your chassis... Two completely different things.
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