Would you try this on your VQ engine?
#1
Would you try this on your VQ engine?
The man in this video shows how to clean off you engine/bay in 10 mins.
http://www.doityourself.com/video/Ho...utes-158076990
http://www.doityourself.com/video/Ho...utes-158076990
#2
flash vid didn't load.
nvm, working now.
I just sprayed it down with the pressure washer today haha.
If you want to degrease, get some simple green type heavy duty degreaser, dilute it a little (or not at all), spray it on and let it soak for a while.
nvm, working now.
I just sprayed it down with the pressure washer today haha.
If you want to degrease, get some simple green type heavy duty degreaser, dilute it a little (or not at all), spray it on and let it soak for a while.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 03-28-2010 at 10:43 PM.
#3
totally safe. i have used many engine degreasers, gone to many complete auto details incl under hood service. this is how its done. funny thing is my last detail also finished up with a foaming tire product, that needed no wipe after
dont be scurrrrrred
dont be scurrrrrred
#6
I've cleaned all my vehicle engines for years...you really just need low pressure hose water...But all my connectors are packed with Dow Corning 4 so it's protected for yrs and yrs.....and now and then I'll spray it down at the car wash!
#11
Oh and if you use that gunk stuff or anything harsh like that you may want to avoid spraying it on the paint like that guy did. It's supposed to be pretty harsh on paint.
#13
I have done this many many times in my years of Auto Detail. The engine degreaser at full concentrate will dull the plactic parts and rubber hoses. Spray a little water on to the engine before you spray the degreaser. He uses the tire foam and that will bring back the luster of the hoses and plastic parts, but I will make your engine bay alil greasy so it will get dirty faster.
Edit: Avoid spraying a lot of water on the Alt. You may get a CEL and belt squel on start up. All should go away once the engine is dry.
Edit #2: BE CAREFUL WITH AFTERMARKET INTAKES! Do not soak the filter and let it dry before you drive
Edit: Avoid spraying a lot of water on the Alt. You may get a CEL and belt squel on start up. All should go away once the engine is dry.
Edit #2: BE CAREFUL WITH AFTERMARKET INTAKES! Do not soak the filter and let it dry before you drive
Last edited by maxboy325; 03-29-2010 at 08:53 AM.
#14
As far as spraying water directly on the alternator, that's kind of a difficult job on our cars, unless you actually seek it out and spray it, being that it's under the engine. Just spray down over the top and you should be fine.
Also, make sure that you spray down your fenders as well before applying the degreaser. That stuff really can kill your paint's finish.
Last thing, if you're concerned about the engine being wet, the best thing you can do? Grab a leaf blower and go at it.
The pressurized air from the leaf blower at about 12-16" away shouldn't do any damage to any connections and will blow all the sitting water right out of any exposed connections.
#15
Ive always just covered my cone filter with a plastic bag and zip tied it so it doesnt get wet....just make sure you take the bag off b4 you start it, a friend of mine didnt and he accordioned his filter....dummy lol
#16
great idea with the leaf blower...and luckily i have a new alternator so im just gonna wrap that with a plastic bag and not worry about it.time to get to work once its warm out to dry faster
#17
Any harsh degreaser is going to spot the aluminum, especially if you follow the directions and make sure the engine is warm. An APC (all purpose cleaner) is better than a degreaser. Do not spray water at high pressure at anything electrical, use low pressure. As soon as you finish, start the engine and let it run until you can't see any more wet areas.
#19
i have come home from a drive and blasted my car with cold water to get the oil and dirt off, not the best idea in the world i know i dont do it anymore but i have never had a problem. But i would be concerned about getting chemicals in the alternator.
#20
I must be the only one that refuses to soak my engine bay. I don't really want to risk misfiring due to water in the plug wells, or other random electrical problems just to clean my engine bay easier. I use compressed air and a damp rag normally.
#21
your not the only one buddy, i would ever spray water right onto my engine, i just use a damp hot rag and scrub it
#23
I've always used 'Foamy Engine Brite' from O'Reillys or any auto parts store. Highly recommended! Use an entire can on the engine bay then was the rest of your car and rinse off the motor last. Will look brand new and i've never had a single problem. Your engine bay will get hot enough for any water to evaporate. Does seem weird using it for the first time though.
#24
A shop rag, some elbow grease, and bloody knuckles.
#25
I have been blowing off the engine in my 1997 4Runner for years. I just cover the K & N cone filter and have at it. I actually bring it to the car wash and keep the engine running. And yes you want to stay away from the alternator and a safe distance because of the pressure.
#27
I used to do engines all the time but with all the electronics under the hood now (VW coil packs are notorious for shorting out due to excessive water), I only detail engines with a signed waiver releasing me of liability. I'll do wipe downs but that's about it.
#28
I did mine at my local "Wash it yourself". All it took was like $2-$4 of quarters to be done. It came out very good since it's high pressure wash. I did cover my alternator, however.
I tied two bags over my alt. and my intake as well.
Edit #2: BE CAREFUL WITH AFTERMARKET INTAKES! Do not soak the filter and let it dry before you drive
#30
Worked at a new car dealer and when I'd wash customer vehicles, we'd spray down the engine bay with the engine running. No problems, been doing the same thing for years without any "noticeable" problem. Spray the clear coat wax stuff (do it yourself coin wash) to give all plastic that "Like new" look.
Also +1 for degreasers or all purpose cleaners, be safe and spray simple green before hand over everything then high pressure wash everything after. Of course don't get too close to things with the wand, just use sweeping motions. Side to side then top to bottom, reverse those two and call it good.
Just make sure you are able to apply the brakes successfully, I've washed my front wheel wells, and calipers... and stopping immediately after is ALWAYS shocking. Pump the brakes hard for a few cycles and you'll get the brakes back 100%.
#31
I've always used 'Foamy Engine Brite' from O'Reillys or any auto parts store. Highly recommended! Use an entire can on the engine bay then was the rest of your car and rinse off the motor last. Will look brand new and i've never had a single problem. Your engine bay will get hot enough for any water to evaporate. Does seem weird using it for the first time though.
Gunk makes "Engine Brite" "Foamy Engine Brite" and "Engine Brite Gel" and of the three, "Foamy Engine Brite" is the best engine cleaner on the market.
Use the whole can, spray EVERYTHING, let it soak for five minutes and hose it all off with a spray nozzle on a garden hose. If you have a really nasty, greasy engine, use a round headed toilet brush and scrub everything you can poke the brush into. For extra cleaning power, hook the garden hose to the spigot on the base of a water heater, assuming it is located in the garage.
Immediately wash your car and you will have no paint issues or water spots, then after drying the car, drive it for a few miles at highway speeds to get all the water out of the little nooks and crannies underhood. Do this once every year to make it easy to spot leaks and make it cleaner to work on.
#33
I've always taken every vehicle I've ever owned to the high pressure wash to do the engine. First it gets rinse, then tire/engine cleaner, then wash, then rinse. I've never had a problem on any of my cars except my old Honda Preludes with dual carbs. It didn't like getting wet and would usually misfire as water would always find it's way inside the dist. cap. I'd drive the car home, misfiring and all, and remove the cap and dry it.
I never cover anything up with plastic. I just don't put the nozzle an inch away from the alternator or any electrical sockets. I always drive the car around for 15 minutes afterwards to dry off most of the water before it can sit somewhere it's not supposed to like that stupid idler pulley bolt with the well on top if it. I clean my engine and the engine on my wife's '91 Max about once a year or so, except last month where I did my engine 3 times trying to find a power steering leak.
I never cover anything up with plastic. I just don't put the nozzle an inch away from the alternator or any electrical sockets. I always drive the car around for 15 minutes afterwards to dry off most of the water before it can sit somewhere it's not supposed to like that stupid idler pulley bolt with the well on top if it. I clean my engine and the engine on my wife's '91 Max about once a year or so, except last month where I did my engine 3 times trying to find a power steering leak.
#34
I have been cleaning the engine for years with purple stuff and then soking the whole engine bay with armor all or tire foam. Wait ten minutes and then hose it off. It works well and keeps it pretty. The car is about to turn 200,000 miles in the next month and really have no complaints. The valve covers have some discoloration but not to bad. The power steering is starting to leak a little though. I think the copper washer is staring to give up.
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