So with the gle now crossing 190K.... i finally started hearing the mounts when i shut the engine off.

I found a set of mounts on ebay for all 4 mounts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-98...essories#payId

Anyone have any thoughts?

The car is auto but i'm switching over to the regular manual mounts. Not interested in ES.

Thanks.

 

They are identical to OEM. Except much cheaper to purchase.

I am 100% for these mounts.

 

Jegs has a good energy suspension poly set for front and back for $90, noticed a huge difference when I put mine in..

 

First post. Damn newbies can't read.

 

Thanks nismopc.

I ordered them earlier today.... ordered the 4 subframe bushing on my way back home...

I had wished to do these mounts and bushing at 200K but i guess i'll be doing it 10K earlier...

Next I am wondering if I should also do those sub frame collars!

 

Do these fit on a 03?.

 

Check out his eBay store... i think you can get a set of 4 mounts for 03 too for about $100...
The best part is these mounts are normal and not electronic!

 

would those fit 02-03?

 

How long do these mounts actually last approx? Quality differences with OEM?

 

I should be getting them this afternoon. The guy has great shipping.

My OEM mounts have lasted 190K miles and I am sure if I disconnect the plugs on the electric mounts I may get another 10K.

If I get 50% of the life from the new ones I will be a happy camper.

Your mounts, bushing etc really dont have a life.. they depend on your driving habits and maintenance. Yes, the quality of rubber attributes to life but with standardized processes used, the difference may not be that much.

 

How is the install of the mounts, 1~5, 1 being easy and 5 hard? I think I have to change mine, too, I am going 168K and I hear a thud everynow and then, my front mount is giving way.

 

It shud be much simpler than our alternator install

Basically...
1. Jack up the car
2. Put in jack stands
3. Put in jack under engine trans joint and slightly raise motor to open up front and rear mount bolts.
4. use second jack to support engine using wood plank under oil pan.
5. use first jack to support trans
6. unbolt front and rear mounts from engine
7. unbolt cross member from under the car. be careful at this step as motor will come down slightly.
8. remove front and rear mount from cross member
9. install new mounts on cross member
10. bolt up rear mount first to motor
11. just put in cross member bolts loosely so u can adjust and align front mount with motor.
12. bolt up cross frame to under body and tighten everything to 70ft-lbs.

its rather easy and being a FL car i am not seeing any major issues.

I had ordered the 4 cross member bushings from the dealership which should come in tuesday so this install will happen next weekend.

I have to get directions for the passenger side and trans mount but they should be easier compared to the front and rear.

With the mileage we have on our maximas... i am doing all instead of just the front and rear.

Let me know if you have questions.

 

Thanks a lot, take pics will you? We will do a DIY, I am looking forward to doing my mounts!

 

Did you do the install yet?

 

I had ordered the 4 cross member bushings from the dealership which should come in tuesday so this install will happen next weekend.


Did you get your order?

 

yeps got the cross member bushings today.

All set for saturday!! look out for pics.

 

Thanks in advance! Good luck!

 

Thanks man.

I was bored this evening after getting back from work and the weather calls for a hot one over the weekend.

So, I went ahead and did the front and rear mounts today

If the alternator is a 4/10 10 being the hardest this is a 2 LOL

The ebay mounts for the manual maxima had a32 written on them but fit just fine.

My front auto mount had a couple surface cracks that did not go too deep but i'm sure were creating a problem. The rear mount was leaking.

The bad news is I seem to also have the upper oil pan leaking well... may do it some time going to just leave it for right now.

I'll compile a how to and post pics over the weekend once i get the passenger side mount done.

There is a little vibration at idle with the manual mounts compared to the auto mounts.

Overall the fact that they are 20% the price of the auto mounts, I'll live with it just fine.

The car feels much better going over bumps and undulations on the road. I had a minor vibration in the gas pedal which was coming in between 1900 and 2200 rpms.. That is now history.

Aiming to try and do the passenger side mount tomorrow and also place an order for the subframe bushings from the group buy going on. That should further help the way the car handles !!

 

I ordered many parts for an altima I had from that site and was happy for the price.

 

Super! Looking forward.

 

Any word? Are they mounted?

 

pic? if it was that easy then i am on my way to order it

 

Ok.... so all done with it and thanks to the time out on the website i lost everything as i was typing it all out!

Anyways... will add in the pics to this thread.

Pic 1: Car jacked up and all set to go. Yeps I know she looks really good for 190K miles and 10 yrs



Pic 2: Remove all splash guards



Pic 3: Front motor mount bolt from below



Pic 4: Electric harness on front mount from below



Pic 5: Electric harness disconnected

 

Pic 6: Front mount bolt as seen from drivers side. I removed the stock air intake and air filter box to create more space.



Pic 7: Rear Mount bolt



Pic 8: Extensions to remove the rear mount bolt




Pic 9: One mount done, one more to go on cross member



While doing the passenger side mount, I removed the horn, alternator belt and idler pulley for ease of access for the one nut you have to remove from the underside. Also for both side mounts the nut on the engine bracket are NOT welded on so you have to hold the nut with a wrench as you unbolt it from the other side. Be careful with your AC lines and PS hoses as they are in close proximity of this area.

While doing the drivers side, disconnect the battery and starter cable and then remove the bracket that goes on the mount with a 10mm bolt. Its a pain to get this out. With that bracket removed the mount will come out easily. The mount itself sits in an inverted notch so you need to get the mount out at an angle, when you unbolt it you should be able to see this.

I'm going to add the old mount pics in sometime to show you how bad they were.

Any questions.... let me know.

 

Here are the old mount pics.

Trans mount: Not super bad, but surface cracks visible. Definately worn out.



Front engine mount: Minor surface cracks. Could have made some more miles.



Rear Mount: No pics since it really did not have any cracks or sign of wear. What i thought was a leak on the mount is my upper oil pan.

Passenger side mount: The real problem. Completely gone! If I were to keep check on the mounts, I would def keep checking this mount every 5-8K miles.




All in all except for the Passenger side mount, I am amazed by the life of the OEM mounts to last 190K miles.

 

oooo nice pics very interesting info

 

Bump. I'm also in the market for new mounts, and so many of these great ebay deals are saying some mounts will work between 3.0 and 3.5, but doesn't say which ones. Does anyone know which mounts are interchangeable?

 

Fantastic! Great pics and DIY. Thank you.

Is there and issue to switch to manual versus electronic mounts?

Were yours electronic?

Thanks again!

 

Got it on the Elec versus manual. Did you just disconnect? No effect?

Mine is a 2000 so I need to get the exact same thing you did.

Perfect.

 

Thanks for the post and pics!

Can someone confirm if the early gen model bushings (manual) fit the 02-03's??
This was unclear in the post.

I'm after that gDamed Passenger side mount!!

gr

**btw: how did your car RIDE after you finally changed the worn-out passenger side mount??**

 

Hi there,

On the ebay store I noticed it said only 95-01 for some reason.

Mine is an 01 so i was not sure if there are any changes to the mounts for 02-03. If you look at courtesy parts and see that the part numbers match, I would safely assume these mounts would work fine.

Yes, in my little project I noticed the passenger mount takes the maximum amount of beating followed by the trans mount. The front and rear mount showed little to no signs of wear compared to my passenger and trans mounts.

In the auto's both the front and rear mounts are electric. Since the actual socket is on a bracket you can remove the connector and leave the sockets on the car as they are no going to hit something etc.

The only difference you notice with manual mounts on an auto is increased vibration in the steering wheel at idle but not on the car floor i.e. your passengers wont feel anything.

As for the ride, there is a marked difference in the way the engine delivers power. My mounts were so bad that at low speeds i.e about 45 as the TC engaged and disengaged I could feel the motor being sloppy to put power down on the road. That is now non-existent. At higher speeds the car feels better planted to the road with a previously noticed vibration now gone.

All in all for under a $100 i found this to be a super change to my car! my next project is to get rid of my h&r springs and put in SE springs with my illuminas.

Any questions... shoot away.

 

So - if I'm hearing your correctly: you're saying the Pass./Driver's side mounts are the ones taking the biggest beatin'?! no surprises really.

Btw: what don't you like about the h&r's? I'm kinda wondering if I shouldn't ditch mine too!! Just too much slop in the handling for me....thinking of just going back to oem.

Oh and: which struts are you running??

thks,
gr

 

Thanks for the good write up. I am pretty sure my passanger mount is toast because i have soileds front an back!!!

 

the 3.0 block and 3.5 block are the same. Just the 3.5 is bored out a bit more. You can use the same mounts from 95-03.

 

I'm running illuminas all around.

I love the H&R's as long as there are no bumps on the road. For me personally, the H&R's degrade ride quality too much for the tad gain in handling. I like the spring rebound of the OEM springs. The H&R's have little to no rebound so a lot of the impact gets felt into the body structure. I have a 3 series with sports package and even those springs ride better than the H&R's. Don't get me wrong, I have had the H&R's on and off for about 2 yrs now and have maybe 10-15K on the H&R/Illumina combo that I interchange with my stock GLE setup. However, recently I got my hands on a set of stock SE springs and that is JUST what I was looking for. It stiffened up the ride more than the GLE springs and have better rebound than H&R's. For a family sedan like a maxima I found them to be the best way out

 

Question:

Did you have to lift the engine with a jack to relieve weight?

 

Yes, I positioned the jack on the joint of the engine and transmission. You dont need to lift the engine too much just maybe half an inch so u can easily get the bracket bolt out.

You will take more time on the rear mount since there is less space but you will have enough space to get your arm up in there and wiggle it. Basically lift the engine a little and then use breaker bar to begin opening the bolt. Once its mostly out, get your hand in there and pull the bolt out. Since you are supporting the motor with the jack the engine shouldnt fall on you

I hv been using a 3ton aluminum jack from harbor freight which works great!

 

I recently purchased these 4-pack of mounts from ebay (Tennessee Auto Parts) after contacting a couple members on the forums about their slightly used electronic mounts. I decided just to go with these and received them today and they look good for a $100 set.

Description would be: they come nicely packed in individual bags with labels that say "Tenacity", two labels have the "Cefiro" name on them, the other two have "Maxima", but they all say A32. Which I guess is the rolling chassis designation. The description on ebay is funny because they claim "not made out of that cheap Chinese rubber". Well I googled Tenacity Auto Parts and these mounts are made in Taiwan, really far away from China, not even near it. You can write your own jokes. I did not expect them to be made in USA but got a chuckle from the cheap Chinese reference. I'm not complaining, they look really well built, probably better than chain stores products. I do realize the point they were trying to get across. I did consult the forums before buying and that helped thanks to some of the previous posts. Hopefully I will be able to use these for poly mounts when they go bad in the future instead of searching junkyards I will already have brackets. I will let all the A/T guys know how the install goes in the future.

 

LOL... good one!

Yeah now if u ever want to put the ES poly mount inserts you can directly put them in there.

I am sure you will probably notice what i saw. The trans and passenger side mount will be worn the most n then the front/rear mounts.

 

kukx30de,

I've been doing some research on motor mounts, IACV and ECUs and how they impact each other. I have a 2001 SE with 185k on the dash, my motor mounts def. need to be replaced and after spending $1145 on a new IACV, rebuilt ECU, all 3 O2 sensors and the three way cat I don't want to spend big money on the motor mounts so all 4 mounts for $100 sounds pretty nice right now.

My question, and you've answered this I think but not sure I understand it completely, you said "The car is auto but i'm switching over to the regular manual mounts. Not interested in ES."

1. I know that the autos have electric motor mounts and the manuals don't. Is there anything else other than some vibration at idle that I should be concerned about with switching from auto to manual mounts?

2. What do the electric mounts actually do that the manuals don't? What is the reason for electric mounts? What do they plug into and control/regulate? (Sorry if these are newb questions)

3. What is ES?

Just a quick background on MY car. I knew the IACV and Cat needed to be replaced and I foolishly tried to do the IACV myself. Didn't turn out so well. So after cursing myself for days I finally had a pro do it. No SES light, the car isn't throwing any SES codes, no tranny codes, everything looks good. Yet when I drive the car at low speeds, 15-25 MPH and 1st and 2nd gear, it sometimes feel like the engine is choking and at other times surging.

Could this be the motor mounts? It's the only thing I haven't done yet. Might I see a difference if I disconnect the electric mounts?

Thanks in advance. Very informative thread!