I was just looking at my mount near the power steering reservoir, it has a huge crack on it! This is where the thump was coming from, every now and then I would hear a clunk-thump.

I gotta get the $100 set of 4 and get going on this!

 

My passenger mount was busted! Will take a pic! I will order my set tomorrow! Thanks for the DIY!

 

Ordered mine!

 

gl keep updating how this goes i really want to know because i need to do this but ive never done anything like this before

 

The DIY's and pics here, plus their willingness to teach us, can not go wrong. But a good set of tools is always a plus!

If I get them Friday, I will mount them this weekend and will surely take pics to add to this thread.

 

So for shizz and giggles I unplugged the electronic motor mounts and my engine/transmission surge is gone.

 

I read your other questions and will get back to you on that . However.... unplugging them is a gr8 option. Overtime once the mounts wear out the engine rocks back and forth resulting in symptoms that make you feel like something else is wrong.

 

You are correct, if the mounts short then you are looking at issues with the ECU and IACV. Keeping them unplugged will save you on that front. I am not very sure about the IACV shorting problem that a few i.e. <2% of members on the board have reported.

Yes, compared to the electronic mounts you will feel a tad bit of vibration at idle. If you have been in a 4 cyl car and felt the vibration at idle, this will be the same. The vibration is ONLY felt in the steering wheel and not in the floor or seats. Your passengers would not feel anything.

The electric mounts have an electric system built in which lets it be in 2 modes, i.e. Hard or Soft. At idle to prevent the vibration from coming into the cabin the mounts are soft. As the engine revs up the mounts goto a hard mode to reduce engine movement and aid in better power delivery.

ES is the acronym for Energy Suspension. Its a company that makes polyurethane bushings for cars. polyurethane bushings are a good alternative to oem bushings from a life and wear and tear perspective but they are harder in composition and transmit more vibration to the car structure.

Yes, if the motor mounts have issues you could well feel these symptoms since the motor is wasting power by rocking back and forth rather than actually transmitting power to the wheels. I had a jerky 1->2nd shift which has now disappeared since the mount on the transmission side was shot.

 

So one more time the set that you got from ebay is plug and play, right?

 

Thank you for answering my questions kukx30de. So the jerking and surging after unplugging the electronic mounts has returned. I'll update when I replace the mounts. Thanks again for your input.

 

yes.

 

You may have other issues.

With the mileage you have quoted for your maxima are all your other maintenance items already upto date? I would check to make sure your MAF is good. You may even look into cleaning your throttle body.

 

My set will come in tomorrow. Is this a half day job? I may have to consult with you in the install, hope that's ok! thanks.

Can not wait.

 

I spread mine out over 3 days.
Day 1: front and rear mounts
Day 2: passenger side mount
Day 3: trans mount

took it easy doing a mount each evening after coming back from work.

 

Great! I will plan the same way.

 

But once I have the engine lifted and I have time, I should do it all at one time, right?

 

you will have to lift different sides of the engine as you go through replacing each mount. So you don't necessarily have to do all 4 in one time. If time is an issue, spread it out over a few days.

 

Can you please explain on the different sides?

 

The mounts are here! Holy smokes they are big...just did not realize that they were beefy.

I will cut and paste and print all the suggestions-instructions here and will also take pics to add.

Thanks kukx30de! I might PM you or ask while I am doing the install.

I will take pics of the areas in question and will take my time.

I am relying on your rating of 2 out of 10. The alternator install is a 5_6 to me.

A 2 is more than welcome.

 

Good Luck Mandyfig.

Just make sure you have enough extensions in both 3/8" or 1/2", pb blaster for the bolts on the cross member and a good breaker bar.

Some tips:
1. I use the aluminum pipe from my jack on top of my break bar for even greater leverage. It helped me bust open the front rear mount bolts on the cross member with ease.
2. When putting things back together, first loosely put in the 4 cross member bolts that hold the cross member to the body then use your jack to lift/lower your engine to line up the front rear mount and bolt them in.
3. If you lift the car from the engine side make sure you use a couple 1X4 on top of the jack head to avoid denting your oil pan. You can do the same 1X4 trick on the transmission side.

If you feel you are good on time, I would do the passenger side mount next.

Good Luck! I will check in during the day to see if you are actively posting... keep that laptop with you in the garage just in case.

 

i have a 2002 auto se, will the tranny mount and passenger side mount in this kit fit in my car??? ive tried searching but cant find a definite answer

 

I installed the passenger mount in my 02 manual last night. I don't think the trans mount will work on my manual car though. I'll post pics later and you can match up your mount to the kit's mount.

 

Thanks a lot! Today is a bust, worked on my Acura rotors, could not get it to budge. Would have been a hour job, but took the whole morning and I am beat. I still could not get the rotors to free up. I still have some pads left, I will get it done after a month.

Back to Max, thanks for the tips. I might get on it tomorrow. Yes, check on the posts, I might run into issues and would appreciate tips and solutions.

Thanks again.

 

I will do the passenger side 1st which I know is busted. It is tight in there, how do you get the wrench in there?

 

I will spray the PB blaster on the cross mounts and let it soak for a week so when I am ready, it will be like butter.

 

Here's a few pics of my busted pass mount and a few questions, too:

 

Here are my questions on access to the bolt and nut:

 

The new mount, do we transfer the rubber sides?

 

For some reason my pass mount does not look like the original. The new mount looks like the original. The harware looks the same. The runner is not.

 

^^^yeah, that nut is a PITA to remove(could not find any tool to go under there). what i did was using a dremel or drill to destroy the top part. Then, it should come out easily without removing the nut.

 

That doesn't look like the original, that's for sure. I used a box end wrench on the nut in question with a second large box end wrench over it for leverage. I accessed it from up top rather than underneath. Took a lot of muscle, but it did eventually loosen. Pull the power steering fluid resevoir off to give you a bit more room.

 

To get this one, simply use a deep well socket and a long extension and remove from the top.

[/QUOTE]

This one requires some thought. Jack up the engine (wood block under oil pan of course) then get to it from the bottom using a series of extensions. You will need a breaker bar for both, as well as most of the other nuts/bolts for this job.

The rubber pieces on the sides appear to be "splash" guards to prevent engine/environmental chemicals from degrading the rubber. The front/rear mounts have this rubber on one side only, towards the engine.

 

Good suggestions, thanks! The drilling sounds like a best 2nd option.

PB blaster definitely needed!

 

Alright, let me show you some busted mounts These are from my 2002 Manual with 100k miles. Yes, the ebay mounts fit my 2002 with the exception of the trans mount.

Front:


Rear:


Passenger side:


My trans mount appears OK, which is good because the ebay kit one doesn't match. Something tells me all the drivetrain slop will be gone! The front and rear mounts were trashed!

 

Man.... you guys had worse mounts than mine too!

Mandyfig,
For the passenger side mount:
- The rubber piece actually goes on the new mount. You will reuse that piece. For some reason its like a cover to protect the mount? I reused the old one. You will see when you have the mount removed. It will have no wear and tear.
- For the bolt that is facing downwards. I think its a 14mm, but as mention you will need a deep socket for it with extensions. To really create more space, I removed the idler pulley and the alternator belt so that I was not rubbing against the belt in anyway. The old and new mounts will look identical when removed.

Let me know if you need more info on this one.

 

See the nut visible in these 2 pics. You need to remove that. There are also 2 bolts that go into the timing cover. Its like a top cover on the mount. Once you remove that you will see the mounts look identical.

Please dont use a dremel etc, we have southern cars and these bolts easily pop with some elbow grease and a breaker bar.

 

Thanks.

I looked up the rubber thingy on the Nissan parts list and they are called stoppers. I guess they are sort of a washer so the mounts do not wonder off. Thanks for letting me know they are re-usable.

Hey, when you said subframe bushings, are they the bushings onn the cross member mount? Do I need to get them replaced, too?

In all these, I was thinking that maybe all I needed was to replace the pass side mount and my other 3 mounts are OK. But looking at the cost of getting only the pass mount was crazy. It was like $100. That's OEM. The ones we picked up for the 4 @ $100 looks like the OEM and I am sure will give us at least 50K of no worries.

I might do the pass mount today.

Thanks again.

 

The mounts were the ones on the cross member holding the front and rear mount.

I would say if you were doing the front and rear mounts go ahead and change those out too. They only about $24 at your local dealership if they price match to courtesy parts. Speak with your parts wholesale guys.

good luck again!

 

Great tip. I will get them.

 

how's this goin mandyfig?