Have not gotten a chance yet to start working on my mounts.

 

This one requires some thought. Jack up the engine (wood block under oil pan of course) then get to it from the bottom using a series of extensions. You will need a breaker bar for both, as well as most of the other nuts/bolts for this job.

The rubber pieces on the sides appear to be "splash" guards to prevent engine/environmental chemicals from degrading the rubber. The front/rear mounts have this rubber on one side only, towards the engine.[/QUOTE]

Did my passenger side mount yesterday, and after drilling and dremel did not work, i ended up using a bolt out (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a) with a ratchet from the bottom of the car, and it came out pretty easily. I should have tried that in the first place. Did not have a camera available, so i was unable to take any pictures.

 

Need to cake it with PB blaster and let it chill for a week. Then I will go in for the kill! Thanks for the suggestions.

 

how is everything working out ?

 

Well not done yet. This weekend's a bust, so many people graduating!

 

The pass mount is done! This was the old one! Was in 2 pieces. I would have not noticed it until I read about the mounts. And yes this mount takes the abuse all the time hence the 1st to go:

 

Here's my DIY, again thanks to the OP for the inspiration:

Tools

 

Jack up the car, stands and support oil pan to lift the engine. Mine was sunk 1/4" because the pass mount was busted, remove splash guards:

 

Use PB blaster, I used Liquid wrench, spray on all bolts and nuts...watch out for the dripping, you do not want it where it can do harm...here's the set up to break the bolts, yes the breaker bar is your friend:

 

You need space to try to get the problem nut out. I took off the idleer pulley and bracket and since my horn was relocated, it was clear:

 

Now you have a shot at that nut...

 

I tried for half an hour to get the nut out, from below and top, but could not do it. So took out the drill and dremel. When I punch it out, the mount just released....it was out of there!

 

Transfer the stoppers and the new mount is ready to go:

 

Install new mount, re-install the pulley bracket and idler and belt, adjust and tighten. The mount is in! Test drive!

 

Thanks kukx30de for the inspiration!

I will do the rest of my mounts next time...

 

How did you get the idler pulley out. I mean, how did you loosen the belt.

 

The strut bolt. Read through the post on alternators and there's good instructions on it.

 

Good Job!!

How does the car ride now?

I noticed the difference right as I pulled the car out of the driveway and onto the road.

As the car went down the little dip we have at the road edge. I heard that soft thud instead of the loud thump i used to hear.

The car even seemed to shift nicer since the motor wasnt moving around too much.

I would say, do your trans mount next. If your car has not been abused much, i.e. not too many visits north of 4K RPM(I know mine generally stays between 2K and 3.5K) your front and rear mounts should still have life.

We have 2 good threads on now.... lets see what we can do next... maybe brakes since i see more questions coming for them too

 

Thanks again. How to do the tranny mount? That looks more challenging, it is buried there. Give me nice tips and I will do an additional write up, too. I checked my front mount, it has tiny cracks, but still good. Have not peeked at the rear mount.

 

Brakes? I have done the brakes. Just had the rotors turned, the pads were still ok. I did not lube the slider pins though, I should have. But they were freely moving.

 

Tips on the tranny mount replacement?

 

Uh, bad idea!!

Never support your engine using your oil pan...

...there are other areas under there that will allow you to safely support/lift the engine.


Damn I wish my under carriage was that freaking rust free and clean.

Oh, and Purolator oil filters suck (IMHO)

 

Even the FSM calls for supporting the engine by placing a jack under the oil pan to perform certain work.
Why is such a bad idea?

 

I was going to use the AC bracket to support the engine.

 

The way you did it is fine, as long as you don't touch the drain plug.

 

Maybe I'm over cautious and would be concerned with damage to my oil pan.

I actually don't recall what I did to align mine when I replaced mounts come to think of it...



Disregard my stupidity. Comes with getting old I guess...

 

There was not much load on that oil pan. The oil pan is designed to take some abuse. But as the FSM says, that's a good place to support the engine.

 

And notice how I used a lot of contact area to support the load. 4x6=24 sq inches. If there was 300 pounds, 300/24=12.5 pounds/sq in. Not bad at all.

 

Now somebody give me tips on the tranny mount replacement.

 

And Purolator oil filter, changed every 4,000 miles is just mighty fine.

 

I think I need to replace mine too. I've been eyeing the classifieds for it; Amazon want $50 something for it. I haven't looked on ebay yet.

 

I think I have some already in the thread a few posts up

Let me see if I can remember any tips:
1. Remove stock airbox and air filter holder to get space.
2. for safety disconnect battery.
3. u should now be able to see the mount.
4. the 4 main bolts are super easy.
5. to get the middle bolt you have to raise lower the trans to slide it out.
6. the pain is the side bolt that holds a bracket. This bracket has the cable that goes to the starter and some others.
7. The best way i found was to disconnect the big wire that goes to the starter and then slowly undo the bolt using a regular wrench. I couldnt get a socket in there.
8. Once out... its super easy to get it all back in.

Once u remove the stock airbox and filter holder you will see what i am talking about

Let me know i can help out in any way.

 

The ebay set works fine.

If I am not mistaken, there is a similar set of 4 mounts that you can buy from amazon too. But they want like 120-130 for the set.

 

I second that... its more important to change the oil on time rather than what brand you use.... i remember using supertech oil and filter for almost 40K miles Just recently moved back to castrol since one of the stores had a deal going on!

 

Great, Looking good for this weekend's project. The tranny mount did not look bad for you right?

 

I think I am ready to take this on. Anything I need to know in removing the airbox? Do I take it all of to the MAF? Looks like that's the easiest.

 

Bought them and my mechanic installed all of them on a 2003 Auto, the tranny one fit too. It's probably just the 6speed manuals that it wont fit. Btw my mech said it was a pain to install he had to hire someone to help him. He's been our mech for over 10 years.

 

How much did he charge you?

 

$100 but he had to hire some guy for $20 to help so it was in total $120 cash.

 

Thats not a bad price... $220 for all 4 mounts installed.