fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

well damn

FINALLY got around to changing my belts out ...

HOLY HELL @ that ordeal ... it actually wasnt too bad of a process, but that bolt BEHIND the PS PUMP was brutal .. whole process only took me a few hours .. i'm now burnt but it was better than paying some shop to do it ..

i also rotated my tires and PLANNED on changing my MT oil to some mt/90 stuff ...

my jack bit the dust before i got a chance to do that .. THANKFULLY i had to run to advance to get a hex socket .. if the jack had failed while it was on jackstands i would have been pissed.

at any rate the main reason for posting is this ..

i also bought some 6k d2r's from HIDEXTRA (who's site is down right now :/) .. i was going to put those in while restoring my headlight housings ..

I got the headlights off, but noticed that the bulbs that i have are round on the end, and the bulbs in the housings are attached with a more of a rectangular shape at a 90 degree bend ..

wtf?
did i get the wrong bulbs? is there an adapter that i need to get as well?

Shift_Nashville

on the Ebay hid's, they're garbage!

What's the name of the shop in Hendersonville? As soon as I'm back from Afghanistan I'm having my tint redone...
No thread jacking intended, but are there any nissan specific shows in/around Nashville {I'm new to the area}???

j23a45m9

iTrader: (6)

I've been using ebay hid's for 4years and running on my civic never had a problem at all. so i toss this ebay hid's are crap compared to this seller and that seller. Most of these bulbs are made in the same factory and get branded else where. so its a good chance the ebay hid's that are on countless numbers of cars are the same ones joe smoe is selling to you for 3 or 4 time the price!

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

I got my HID's from HIDextra ... They look great ... I got them in thursday ... I have a crap headlight assembly on my deivers side. It's a depo or some **** like that ... I'm on the hunt for an OEM replacemenent, but all I'm seeing is really expensive ... Also .. I finally hit 90k on the way to jersey from nashville ... Going to replace the plugs and valve cover soon

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

okay guys i'm bumping this thread up.

Just hit 100k last weekend and i'm about to tackle replacing my driver side wheel bearing.

I've done plenty of searching and after getting quoted almost 400 bucks for a shop to do it, i'm going to man up and do it myself.

my main questions relating to the knuckle removal are these:
-Should i buy an electric impact wrench for the job? Would i be better off just buying a breaker tube? I'm worried that the axel nut and the the ball joint nut are going to give me problems.
-I dont have a torque wrench and i'm thinking i should pick one up thats capable of torqueing the axel nut correctly. I dont want to under or over torque this crucial part of the process (same with the various other bolts you encounter with this type of job.)
-I've read that the forks for the ball joint and tie rod are not that great as they can damage the boots ... should i buy something like this instead?
http://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Prod...uct/B000SIFO3M


Since the shop quoted me at almost 400 even if i buy these tools i'll still be saving money. I already have the bearing.

an electric impact wrench at harbor freight will run me about $55.
getting separate tie rod and ball joint forks will run me about $25, or i could spend a few extra dollars and get the ball joint separator tool (which will work for both the ball joint and the tie rod from what i've read) Will i have to get an adapter for the maxima?
torque wrench capable of more than 250ftlbs is going to cost around $60 bucks.

I wont be pressing in the bearing myself so i'll have to get a shop to do that and that could cost anywhere from 30 to 100 bucks depending on the shop...

so my cost list is sitting at around 2-300 bucks.

money is an issue as i'm planning on getting a house soon and i need to save as much money for these repairs as i can. (on a good note i paid my car off two weeks ago)

any tips on any of these issues?

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

10k miles in a year...wow...you dont drive your max much do you. IMO send it to Deckdout2 i believe he still does wheel bearings

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

haha, yeah .. i bought the car 5 years ago with 44k on the clock ... hated seeing it go above 100k

sending parts off is not an option for me. I need to have it done same day (this is my only car, and i live in an apartment so i'm doing this work in my moms driveway in smyrna)

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Dude, where in Nashville are you? My buddy owns a shop, and we did the bearing on my car a few months back. If you have no problem bringing the hub to Hendersonville, I can get you a quote on how much he'd charge to press the old one out and the new one in.

By the way, a word of advice...get a big hammer for separating the hub from the LCA. That thing was a ***** to get off on my car.

Edit:

You beat me by about a minute with your Smyrna post.

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

sweet!
yeah i wouldnt mind bringing it up there i dont suppose .. if it saves me money i'm all about it.

how much would he charge for the whole job? lol

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Honestly, it depends on how long it takes him...he goes by his program on his computer that tells labor time.

He usually charges $60/hr + parts unless you bring him the parts.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Looking at post #1 in this thread, you think the OP actually found a fuel filter for $15?

mrjones

I would go with MT-85 75W-85 gear oil; a lot of people with MT-90 or AMSOIL 75W-90 drained that out and re-filled with MT-85 and noticed that shifting is drastically better. Nissan also recommends 75W-85, but for some reason, including myself, decided to use 75W-90.

mrjones

correction: Not a lot of people, maybe a handful that have done it so far, I'll be doing it soon also.

fitness stain

iTrader: (1)

?

price i pulled from courtesy nissan at the time of that post ...