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Help major issue with brakes and 600 dollars later

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Old May 9, 2010 | 04:05 AM
  #1  
MaxgtrBlue's Avatar
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Help major issue with brakes and 600 dollars later

Help Someone... I just changed yesterday, my brakes pads , calipers, rotors, and after bleeding the system the brake pedal went to the floor and didn't want to stop.

So after4 times bleeding still no change , took it to a shop where they found one of the new calipers were leaking, so here I go, had to buy new one of that after that I get a call saying a needed a new master cylinder and so I replaced that. Get the car back and still same s,..,. But at least now I'm able to stop but the pedal has so much travel before it grabs and brakes.

So my questions is what the flip else can it be ? I don't want to spend another crazy amount ofoney does anyone know what it could be?

Thanks
Old May 9, 2010 | 06:21 AM
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What kind of problem were you having before, that prompted you to change all those components at once?
Why did you have to buy another caliper if the one you just got was defective, no warranty?
Where did you get al those components in the first place, any reputable place? Or is it a shady source? Any chance that other calipers are defective?
There is a particular order to follow when you bleed all calipers, did you follow that? Did you monitor the brake fluid level along the process, so that the level would not go too low allowing air to enter the system again?
Old May 9, 2010 | 06:35 AM
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Well,

My drivers side rear and front calipers were frozen, thats what prompted the change.
I bought the front calipers from auto zone and the rears off YUP ebay (MISTAKE) So the rear ones i bought were both NO GOOD. So i replaced them.

I do know about the steps about bleeding the system the right way which i followed and which the shop followed as well.

After all that its still the same, IM HATING my car right now.

The other thing i just noticed while driving home from my boys house where we worked in them this weekend was a noise coming from front end like rotation noise not constant but there. When i hear it come on I would just tap the brake and it will stop so its not the bearings.

But my brakes are SUPER smooshy SUCKS!!!
Old May 9, 2010 | 06:40 AM
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i believe it is to be bled in order from rear driver to front passenger then front driver to rear passenger....then your pedal will stiffen up...if your mechanic doesnt know the proper way to bleed your max you better tell him to go back to school....every mecanic should know how to bleed brakes.... if my order is wrong you can try using the search function on here thats how i bled mine when i did them...
Old May 9, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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proper bleeding is from farthest away from the master aka passanger rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front, sometimes the abs system needs to be bleed which could cause the peddle issue, also if the guy didnt bleed the master right when he installed it could also cause that issue, if the brake lines themself to the master arent tight can cause soft peddle.

with the car off when you pump the brakes does the peddle firm up at all aka gets stiff and hard? if so does it drop to the floor if you hold it? when you installed the calipers did you replace the copper or sometimes brass fittings that go between the line to the caliper (the little bolt that had 2 washers on each side that goes to the caliper) those are throw away washers if you reused the old ones that could be where your not holding pressure.

if your lucky you either messed up installing the caliper with those washers, brake lines not tight enough at master or caliper.

this is why we have a compressed air bleeding system at work it hooked up to the master cap, it pushes fluid thru the whole system we just simply walk to each corner break open the bleeder screw and let her rip until no more air then continue on each corner, no issues and always a good peddle.

good luck.
Old May 9, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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The proper bleed sequence on this car is r/r, l/f, l/r, r/f. Bleed the master cylinder first, then the wheels. Also make sure the calipers werent installed upside down, bleeders should be on the top, only saying this because over 15 years of being in a shop I've seen this way too many times.
Old May 9, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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yup seen that a few times at my work or they forget to take off the old washers and replace them, then they leak. they should label calipers on the casting to help solve this problem lol

I would hope the mechanic shop he took i too would of cought if the calipers were put on upsidedown in the rear since they did that and he only changed the 1 front so cant **** that up kinda only goes 1 way.
Old May 9, 2010 | 08:30 AM
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You would be suprised how many cars I see with low pedals that just came from the dealer with the calipers installed on the wrong side. Its pretty common
Old May 9, 2010 | 10:46 AM
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i never knew the bleeding mechanism was so complicated on the maxima.
Old May 9, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by a33_ridah
i never knew the bleeding mechanism was so complicated on the maxima.
No more complicated than any other car.
Old May 9, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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I made sure the ones on the rear were on the correct side. However the front calipers did not have markings for ethier left nor right. So i guess i will check that next. Would it be a big noticable differeence if it was installed on the wrong side?

Can i get those brass washers at autozone or do i have to go to nissan?

Any other ideas? No one thinks its the BRAKE BOOSTER?
Old May 9, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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wait a minute, you said you replaced both left side calipers?


were you aware that the bolt that holds the brake line to the caliper is a banjo bolt?

did you mark the position of the hole before cracking it loose?

just an idea because most people who are DIY'ers might not have done enough brake calipers to catch that.

this is what your brak banjo bolt looks like...i always as a rule of thumb before i reach for a wrench, take a marker or touch up paint and mark the bolt head BEFORE cracking it loose, so that way i know how tight and what the position the hole is.

edit: sorry about the picture size, it's the only one i could find
Old May 9, 2010 | 03:53 PM
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^^Never heard of that logic. I didn't think, and still don't, that the hole had to be lined up with anything in there. The area around those holes is recessed, so no matter where they are pointed, the brake fluid still flows.
Old May 9, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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Also, IIRC, you need to pull the fuse for the ABS before bleeding. I've done it that way with no problems.
Old May 10, 2010 | 04:47 AM
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UPDATE< After reading your guys posts i went to the car to take a look. I found that i made the stupid mistake of installing the front calipers upside down/wrong side.

HOW DUMB! ive done brake jobs a million times and never had this problem. Anyway, I will change it tomorrow and see if thats what caused the squishy brake.

THANKS
Old May 10, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxgtrBlue
UPDATE< After reading your guys posts i went to the car to take a look. I found that i made the stupid mistake of installing the front calipers upside down/wrong side.

HOW DUMB! ive done brake jobs a million times and never had this problem. Anyway, I will change it tomorrow and see if thats what caused the squishy brake.

THANKS

wow i hope that was the problem, altho i thought calipers only went on one way , but i could be wrong
Old May 10, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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Calipers can usually be flipped (in my experience) putting the bleeders on the bottom and ineffective.

And banjo bolts have no position requirements. Ultimately their position is a function of bolt machining, caliper tapping and tightening torque.
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