So I took my car for a spin this evening and it is still stalling at red lights. I've just been putting it in neutral and keeping rpms around 1000... but the power seems pretty normal as far as I can tell.

I went to autovalue and they pulled my codes but I dont know what all of them are bc they are nissan specific:

p0430
p0132
p0031
p0139
p1147

I think most of these are normal for me bc I have headers with 1 downstream o2 sensor unplugged.
Apparently one of these is catalytic system so I think my problem is that the catalytic converter is toast, it seems to fit with my current problems. and since I put the headers on I'm sure there was more strain on the converter than normal which may have done it in. (car has 140xxx KMS about 80xxx miles)

Can somebody tell me what these codes mean and if my prediction is right about the cat? I think this weekend I am going to install my megan test pipe and pull the cat, hopefully this fixes my issue. If not I dont know what next...

 

]It’s not your main cat that is dead. You have headers so you have no pre-cats, and since A33B’s do not monitor the main cat, then there’s no way it would throw a code for the main unit.

Those are all O2 sensor codes.



Taken from:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...bs-inside.html

P0430 is probably your dc'd O2 sensor.

 

so do you think one my o2's that is still plugged in (primary) is bad?

 

If it's throwing the code, probably.

 

I actually got checked with codes for secondary o2's and somehow I came out with main cat codes as well. I didn't even know it was possible. Replaced o2 sim, past inspection fine.

 

ya but o2 sensor shouldnt make my car stall out right??

 

No.. I forgot about that part .

 

Oh man my luck is never going to get better.... I borrowed my gf's brothers 06 Colorado since my car needs work, and about an hour ago I was backing out of a stall in my friends parkade... And I crunched the side of the truck on a concrete pole! Now I have to deal with my car and somehow pay for a new fender on the truck, this sucks big time. I'm going to bed now to try and forget about life

 

Think it can be your fuel filter? since you're stalling out. Or maybe a vacuum leak or spark plugs? Its weird cuz you also say there's no loss of power right?

 

well there was a loss of power when it first started with the problems, but the last few times I drove it the power seems normal.

Im going to take off my intake and clean the filter, maybe its clogged up from dirt and rain. I'll replace the catalytic converter also and hopefully that clears up this issue.

good news about the truck though, I found I can order the fender online for only $50 and Im going to pay a shop to paint in and then install it myself. Hopefully I can get it all done for only a couple hundred dollars.

 

So I took my car to a shop by my work on thursday. turns out my stupid injen was sucking up water when I was on the highway in the heavy rain. It damaged my MAF...

The shop cleaned the MAF and tightened up a hose clamp that was a little loose on my intake. The car is running better but still the tach flutters a bit at red lights and it stalled once on me today but not nearly as bad as before.

Im going to buy a new MAF and swap the IAT resistor. Can anybody show me a pic of where the resistor is bc I have no idea. Im ordering it tonight and want to get it on asap bc my local strip is open now and I want to hit the races but I think I should get the new MAF on first.

 

Check out the 2k1/2k2 MAF swap thread. You can't miss it, when you pull the MAF out of the housing, it has a little resistor on it... The new one you get, will not have the resistor, but it will have the little contacts for it. I just went through this a couple weeks ago. Piece of cake.

 

okay but is the resistor from my old maf garbage or can I still use it?

 

Most people suggest to use it, the actual sensor part of the MAF is what causes the problem, not the tiny resistor. I swapped mine from my old MAF and it seems to be working well.

 

okay thx. Ill just order the maf. do you know if I can just buy the sensor part or do I need the whole assy with the houseing?

Is this what I want?

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...EPI316701.html

 

That's what I'd do.
I've never seen a MAF housing actually dirty or unusable looking.. If your MAF housing is clean and shiny inside like they almost always are, just replace the sensor itself.

Make sure you have the tamperproof torx driver if your car has tamperproof torx head bolts for the MAF.

 

When purchased from the dealership, you can't buy just the MAF sensor. It comes with the assembly, identified as part number 22680-2Y001. But like Craig said, unless your original assembly screen is dirty, don't bother with the housing, and just replace the sensor.

I don't know if that $67 MAF is the same one. All I know first hand is that 22680-2Y001 was a perfect match for my 2003 SE MAF, just missing the IAT, which I swapped. You may also want to solder the connections in place, just to be sure. Your call.

Just for reference, the IAT is more accurately identified as a "thermistor", meaning resistance is affected by temperature.

 

Okay thanks John... I might pm you to ask more about this. Ill check that part # u gave me.

 

Call DaveB the parts guy, I think I bought a MAF from him a while back